Trip Report
machete direct at pinnacles !!!!!!!
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Sunday January 27, 2013 11:33pm
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whitemeat
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About the Author
whitemeat is a trad climber from San Luis Obispo, CA. |
Comments
mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jan 27, 2013 - 11:38pm PT
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Looks great. I did not know Pinicles had routes that long. How long is it? I thought that first pic was a close up of a gravel road.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jan 28, 2013 - 01:06am PT
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Nice photos - thanks for sharing.
At first I thought the route was closed for bird nesting, but after reading the NPS detailed list, I see it is open:
http://www.nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/upload/January-2013-Advisory-Handout-And-Map.pdf
I thought I had replaced all the belay anchors on this route with SS bolts, but apparently not?
I don't remember seeing this anchor. Did you go over left on p2, or over right from the p1 belay and up?
I remember placing a good belay anchor above the highest bolt ladder; not sure where this one is.
mike m,
I think it's 6 pitches.
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nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
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Jan 28, 2013 - 12:44am PT
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Gnarly! Rubbly!
Looks like someone maybe bailed off the P2 anchor? Must be really nice there right now, if it's not wet.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 28, 2013 - 12:59am PT
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This picture tells me everything I need to know about you Petit Grimpeurs.
Attitude, mock-smugness, lighthearted self-reliance.
Just don't forget to check each other's knots and you'll go far!
Great first TR!
Thanks for taking us along!
Cheers,
Roy
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limpingcrab
Gym climber
Minkler, CA
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Jan 28, 2013 - 12:58am PT
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Great stuff, love the pinnacles. Thanks for sharing that one!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Jan 28, 2013 - 01:07am PT
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correction, as I read the NPS posting...
It says all routes "all climbs from Machete Direct to Cuidado!" are open.
Not exactle sure if that's 'inclusive' or not.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jan 28, 2013 - 01:01am PT
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Rob,
The West Face is a route, and closed.
The PDF on the NPS page says Machete Direct through Cuidado are open.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Jan 28, 2013 - 01:07am PT
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caught that, and your edit. thx. corrected.
But I am suprised that the West Face is closed. Especially when Full Throttle and Redline go right up into where WF traverses.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jan 28, 2013 - 01:09am PT
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Sweet! Did you make home in time for dinner with mom? Ahhh, just kidding. Good job dudes!
Looks like kind of a sketchy little adventure!
I'm cracking up, and agreeing with tarbuster and getting a good laugh with your screen name. Whitemeat lol!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 28, 2013 - 01:22am PT
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Great report, thank you for posting, and many more adventures to you!
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murcy
Gym climber
sanfrancisco
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Jan 28, 2013 - 01:24am PT
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Awesome!
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SGropp
Mountain climber
Eastsound, Wa
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Jan 28, 2013 - 01:27am PT
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This TR brought back memories of doing the route in 76 or 77
We scored about a dozen bieners and some slings from the first pitch.
Later we found out that they were from a fatal accident the day before. Apparently the leader fell from high on the first pitch and was left hanging in space. There was not enough rope for his belayer to lower him . He was only wearing a swami belt with no leg loops and the swami slid high enough to constrict his breathing until he slowly suffocated after about half an hour.
It really impressed on us to climb with a proper harness.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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Jan 28, 2013 - 01:36am PT
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Did that way back when the Pinnacles were still warm lava.
The most amazing thing about this cool report... There is life on Supertopo younger than, oh say... 50! These two just dropped the mean age dramatically.
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Dirka
Trad climber
Hustle City
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Jan 28, 2013 - 02:13am PT
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A fine adventure
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 28, 2013 - 02:22am PT
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Simon Sez:
There is life on Supertopo younger than, oh say... 50!
Fer Crissakes they don't even have hair on their ... Faces yet!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Jan 28, 2013 - 02:23am PT
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Yep, buncha duffers who grew up with Dulfer, cut their first manly farts wearing a swami, and sniffed white gas for fun on cold winter days in the cold-ass Pinnacles campgrounds.
No mention of the cold...these dudes are hard.
And damned trusting when it comes to old gear.
What Tarbuster said, you make your own good luck, watch out for ROCK! in the future--keep wearing the lids in the Pins--and you will go far.
You all got pluck 'n chuck disease.
Pluck a rock here, chuck a hold there...
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jan 28, 2013 - 06:04am PT
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Yikes, a couple of those bolts made my butt pucker from way over here!
1970's flashbacks, sweaty palms, *gulp*, somewhere people are still clipping into that crapoola....
SWEET!
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Jan 28, 2013 - 08:44am PT
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The power of choss compels you!
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Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
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Jan 28, 2013 - 09:27am PT
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Well done!
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whitemeat
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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Author's Reply
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Jan 28, 2013 - 10:53am PT
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clint,
i went left to the two bushes on P.2. and when you said, you didn't know where this was, it was the second to last pitch anchors.
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Zander
climber
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Jan 28, 2013 - 11:23am PT
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Oh yeah, great route!
Thanks for the TR.
Climb on!
Zander
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jan 28, 2013 - 11:34am PT
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Proud.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Jan 28, 2013 - 01:28pm PT
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Killer - thanks for sharing.
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Jan 28, 2013 - 01:35pm PT
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nicely done!!!
the groms are sending!!!
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jan 28, 2013 - 01:41pm PT
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Excellent! Thanks much.
John
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Jan 29, 2013 - 10:06am PT
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Thanks for posting. Those pics are making think fondly of that southern choss
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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Jan 29, 2013 - 10:24am PT
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your trip warrants the
plethora of exclamation in
your post-title.
thanks,
i just forgot everything
that i ever believed in.
look out day,
im coming at you,
newly dumb.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jan 31, 2013 - 02:10am PT
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whitemeat,
Thanks for posting the bad bolt photos!
Bruce and I were over fixing up Alias Bandit Bench today, and near the end of the day I snuck over on the bench and found that belay.
Here's a short report on fixing it up:
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whitemeat
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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Author's Reply
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Jan 31, 2013 - 09:40pm PT
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clint,
that is awsome you replacing those anchor bolts. now I wont have to use a body belay!!
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Griffin
Trad climber
Monterey, CA
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Jan 31, 2013 - 06:47pm PT
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Nice TR!! What a fun route that is! Full pinnacles experience up there. Some call it mashitty ridge, screw em. Nice to see those bolts replaced, they needed it. Keep exploring guys!!
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Jan 31, 2013 - 07:35pm PT
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Tuna the other white meat,
Thanks!!!!!!
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J. Werlin
Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
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That route is a great adventure, eh? Go go! I did that thing a couple times when I was around your age. Thanks for posting up.
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David Delkeskamp
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo
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Good on you, whitemeat. Brought back memories of the route; especially the hanging gardens on the descent. :)
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msiddens
Trad climber
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Very nice And thanks for posting. Gotta get on that and finish it. Special thanks to Clint for the update
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Great, great read. You guys remind me of myself some 40 years ago. We were teenagers and this route was quite the bag. Thanks!
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Bump
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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I didn't know California had rock that could make CO look good. Rubblicious!
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Way to shred the choss! Be safe, be smart, and keep em coming. Spooky bolts is right! You boys cooda dun got killt up der! Stay of the rusty stuff from here on out!
Congrats on a fine send. Thanks for the report.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA/Boulder, CO
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As Clint's partner for the rebolting that day I would like to say that we use our hammers to test the rock when we replace bolts. If the rock is suspect, we don't put the new bolt back in the same location.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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The bolts are trustworthy,the rock they are placed in is not. Tap the stuff and it sounds like a drum!
Hunter,
As Bruce said, we agree the rock quality is important, and we check it by tapping it with our hammer.
The rock quality at the old p2 anchor was good (for Pinnacles), so I replaced the bolts using the original holes.
At this upper anchor, where your partner mentioned the rock quality looked bad,
I did not place the anchor there when I replaced the anchors some years ago.
That is, that left hand bolt is not one of mine.
(It is a wedge stud bolt with hex nut; I use Powers sleeve bolts with hex heads).
The right hand bolt hanger looks like an original.
I believe the anchor I placed was in a corner about 6' to the left; I will need to dig out my notes to be sure.
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tom Carter
Social climber
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Thanks for the report. Brought back memories of climbing that thing with Phil Bircheff and Bob Loche back in 1973!!!
What a cool spot!
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