Trip Report
Zodiac with Chris Mac
Tuesday June 4, 2013 12:22am
|
|
First trip report, so here goes nothing. A while ago I bid enough to win a day of climbing with Chris McNamara. This was an incredibly exciting prospect, as I was just crawling out of a long hiatus from the "big stuff". My friends told me I should have him take me up Royal Arches, bivying half way up, wisely I ignored them and we chose Zodiac. A few months and phone calls later, and we were racking gear at the pullout.
We hoped that we would only have Joe the soloist to pass around the 6th pitch; but as we hiked up we found Scott and Cruz on the first pitch. They graciously allowed us to pass on the alternate route, "so long as we moved like ninjas". We had our marching orders. Before I knew it Chris had linked the first 2 pitches and we were off and running. Most of the day is kind of a blur to me, so I'll let the pics and videos talk for a bit.
[ Click to View YouTube Video]
[ Click to View YouTube Video]
This is where the climb got a lot more fun and exciting for me. We were far enough ahead of everybody to where Chris felt comfortable letting me lead for awhile. It felt great to know that Chris was confident enough to let me at the most exposed pitch on the route; and I blasted off with a sh%$#-eating grin on my face...only to turn around and see him setting up the porta ledge. Thanks. I know that speed records were not going to be broken, but I'm sure there was a more subtle way of expressing that :)
I gotta say, it felt pretty good to cruise past pin scars with only cam hooks and the occasional small alien. Not bad for a once every 2 month climber. The pitch had no fixed gear, and even though I had discussed this with Chris before I led out, there was a small moment of panic as I looked back to protection I had placed every 12-15 feet. After checking with him a second time, I remembered The Girdle Traverse, and promptly shut up.
[ Click to View YouTube Video]
I don't remember too much about the Mask of Zorro Pitch, other than it was very steep.
Chris set up the ledge about 7:30, and I was thinking "great, this is where I get to tell him of all my past exploits, and future aspirations", you know that oh so cool big wall bonding. Nope! He ate a bagel, commented on how tasty it was, and passed out. When you think about it, thats probably how it should be. The last time I was on the Big Stone was 20 years ago when my climbing partner and I did the Nose in a epic 4 day battle. The last time for Chris was 4 days previous (Lurking Fear). What was a relative sleepless night spent trying to grasp the enormity of my situation, was just another day in the office for ol superman. He didn't even eat my Mariposa pizza that I so carefully packed.
One of the great things about this climb was knowing that I had a support crew cheering us on from the meadow. My very nervous but excited wife, my twin boys, and my mother who drove from Vegas to watch.
[ Click to View YouTube Video]
What an incredible feeling to have my family meet us as we painfully trudged into Manure Pile. My beautiful wife even had a couple of cold beers for us. Chris had some family obligations and had to get out of the Valley pretty quick; but made enough time for the obligatory meadow shot.
Some final thoughts. Thanks to Tom Evans for all the great pics. Again my sincere apologies for my horrible choice in colors. I will try to do better next time. Sir, yes Sir!!
A final thanks to Chris, who by the wording of the auction, only had to spend 1 day climbing with me but graciously agreed to 2. I would say that this was a once in a lifetime adventure; but I hope there will be many more.
yo-so-mighty
|
|
About the Author yo-so-mighty is a big wall climber from salinas, ca. |
Comments
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
How cool is that to have 1 day of climbing with Chris turn into an ascent of Zodiac! That's just awesome! Congrats!
|
|
philo
climber
|
|
Wah Hoo good on ya! Looks like a great trip.
|
|
Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
|
|
Now that's killer!
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
So Cool!
Man, The Mac Is BACK!
|
|
Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA/Joshua Tree
|
|
Very awesome TR! Thanks for sharing. Read in Tom's report about CMac taking a raffle winner up there....nice to see the backstory.
I'm sure Chris was far happier with your choice of Zodiac than Royal Arches! Great job.
|
|
tahoe523
Trad climber
Station Wagon, USA
|
|
Awesome! You had me giggling. Thanks for sharing and ultimately, for donating funds toward making routes safer.
|
|
Lambone
Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
|
|
That's cool you got to lead what is the best part of the route. Congrats.
|
|
micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
|
|
Awesome. Proud route, proud send. Supercool. Thanks for sharing the journey.
Scott
|
|
Joe Shultz
Gym climber
Pennsylvania
|
|
Nice write up Caleb. Pleasure meeting the two of you up there. I agree with what you said about pitch 14. I also only had 2x#4s, a #5, and big bro... needless to say that part of the climb was pant filling.
|
|
HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
|
|
Yo DOOOD!
That's taking life by the horns.
well done!
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
|
|
hate that top out block. It's just sitting there. I think it can be avoided, IIRC, when I saw Didder top it.
TFPU
|
|
Norton
climber
The Wastelands
|
|
great report
I am jealous, well done!
|
|
GhoulweJ
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
|
|
Way to step up and carry CMac through the tough stuff... Pretty clear that guy is weak sauce..... ;)
|
|
lars johansen
Trad climber
West Marin, CA
|
|
Congrats Yo So, way to send.
lars
|
|
David Nelson
climber
San Francisco
|
|
Chris is a great guy and you were lucky to spend time with him. 11 years ago he was kind enough to spend a couple of days with me at a local crag and the gym, tuning me up for a climb with Ken Yeager on the Nose. I will always remember his kindness teaching an old climber some tricks (Friends had it even been invented the last time I did a big wall, and at that time my rack included 4" and 6" bongs.) thanks, Chris!
|
|
Rudder
Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
|
|
Sounds like a blast! Does Chris guide normally, or just for the fund raiser?
|
|
yo-so-mighty
Big Wall climber
salinas, ca
|
|
Author's Reply
|
Jun 5, 2013 - 11:32am PT
|
Rudder,
I can't speak for Chris; but I don't think he guides, unless its for his charity auctions.
|
|
Studly
Trad climber
WA
|
|
Nice to be on the rope when there is a Chris mac attack!
|
|
msiddens
Trad climber
|
|
MAN, what a GREAT way to spend the day. Good company, good views, good climbing!
|
|
yo-so-mighty
Big Wall climber
salinas, ca
|
|
Author's Reply
|
Jun 5, 2013 - 10:32pm PT
|
Thanks again Chris. I still think we should have pushed on and done the first 1 day ascent with a pig ;) By the way, what route did you just do?
|
|
labrat
Trad climber
Erik O. Auburn, CA
|
|
Thank you for posting!
|
|
Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
|
|
Cool pics! Wonderful!!
But climbing and helmet cams don't mix. I got dizzy and threw up all over my new keyboard.
|
|
Jeremy Hadland
Trad climber
aptos
|
|
I still think bivying on Arches on a portaledge and not letting anyone pass for 2 days would have been far more memorable and epic!! No, seriously good job on Zodiac and great TR also.
|
|
10b4me
Social climber
Lida Junction
|
|
|
Mar 12, 2014 - 03:46pm PT
|
bump
|
|
Captain...or Skully
climber
Boise, ID
|
|
|
Mar 12, 2014 - 04:15pm PT
|
"BBST?" Clue me in, please....I'm still at TPFU.
Good TR, anyway.
|
|
|
|
|
Recent Trip Reports
- The Kohala Ditch Trail: 36ish hrs on foot... to and from the headwaters. [5 of 5]
May 31, 2019; 11:57pm
- A Winter Traverse of the California section of the PCT Part 8
May 31, 2019; 11:18pm
- Supertopo,A trip report for posterity
May 31, 2019; 11:00pm
- Balch Fest 2013. Two Days in and Around and On The Flake. The Official Trip Report
May 31, 2019; 10:57pm
- TR: My visit to the Canoe
May 31, 2019; 10:24pm
- Death, Alpine Climbing, The Shield on El Cap
May 31, 2019; 4:07pm
- Andy Nisbet (1953-2019)
May 31, 2019; 2:11pm
- Drama on Baboquivari Peak
May 31, 2019; 1:19pm
- Joffre + The Aemmer Couloir: ski descents come unexpected catharsis [part 2]
May 31, 2019; 7:45am
- Lost To The Sea, by Disaster Master
May 30, 2019; 5:36am
- My Up And Down Life, Disaster Master
May 29, 2019; 11:44pm
- Halibut Hats and Climbers-What Gives?
May 29, 2019; 7:24pm
- G Rubberfat Overhang-First Ascent 1961
May 29, 2019; 12:28pm
- Coonyard Pinnacle 50 Years Later
May 29, 2019; 12:24pm
- Great Pumpkin with Mr Kamps and McClinsky- 1971
May 29, 2019; 12:02pm
- View more trip reports >
|