Trip Report
Yosemite Falls - The Middle Tier
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Tuesday July 6, 2010 12:06pm
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These are photos from a 2006 trip down the Inner Falls in Yosemite. Below is an overview of the route. We did it in late October, when the falls were dry:
We decided to approach the top of the Inner Falls via the old classic Sunnyside Bench Route 5.0. Jason Price looked back once we were out of the gully that begins the route and snapped these photos of John Forde leading and Lee Burgess following.
Yosemite Is beautiful in the Fall:
Once you reach the base of the second tier, don't hike up too close to the base of the Lost Arrow Chimney or you will have to rap down to the bottom of the upper falls.
Once we reached the bottom of the upper falls, we walked around a bit:
Once you start walking into the Inner Gorge, it doesn't take long before you reach the rappels. The first two are short ones:
Then you reach a double rope, hanging rappel:
And now you really feel like you are deep into it.
 Missing photo ID#160682
There is a point where you will have to rappel or jump into a beautiful pool. We chose to jump:
After having fun in the water, you rap from trees on the west side of the falls:
And then scramble to the top of the Lower Falls:
At this point, you could possibly make a high profile rap into the Lower Falls. We walked off via the Sunny Side Bench Trail.
All in all, it was a great adventure with good friends:
I would recommend this to any Yosemite obscurity lover. Just take enough webbing and leaver beaners just in case the rappel stations need to be updated. The bolts looked OK. When we did it, we only left one sling at the station with the big free hanging rap. Take two 50m ropes. Have plastic bags for anything you want to keep dry.
Enjoy!
MV
Photos by Jason Price
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Trip Report Views: 25,015 |
M. Volland
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About the Author
M. Volland is a trad climber from Grand Canyon. |
Comments
le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Jun 17, 2010 - 02:58pm PT
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Thanks for posting, looks fun. I think I'll give it a go this next weekend.
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M. Volland
Trad climber
Grand Canyon
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Author's Reply
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Jun 18, 2010 - 12:17am PT
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le_bruce
Give me your address and I'll ship you a snorkle.
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Zander
climber
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Jun 18, 2010 - 12:43am PT
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Sweet. I've seen pics of this before and really wanted to do it. Way to get on it.
Zander
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David Knopp
Trad climber
CA
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Jun 18, 2010 - 12:59am PT
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le bruce ya made me laugh so hard coffee came outta my nose!
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M. Volland
Trad climber
Grand Canyon
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Author's Reply
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Jun 18, 2010 - 11:22pm PT
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When we went out do do this, we were not sure that the rap route even existed. We were happy to see that it did.
The slot in the Tenaya Canyon is a longer day - Starting at the Sunrise trailhead and ending at the Pizza deck, or the Mountain Room Bar if you are Lodge based. However, I had just as much fun in the Inner Falls as in Tenaya Canyon. I would highly recommend them both as non-rest rest day activities.
Also, the 11 mile walk on the non highway side of the river from the end of Incline Road in El Portal to the Briceberg (spelling?) Bridge is one that should be done in early spring. It a good rainy day outing.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
Boise, ID
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Jun 21, 2010 - 08:26am PT
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Yowza.
I used to spend quite a bit of time up there.
Magic place. Thanks.
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Prod
Trad climber
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Jun 21, 2010 - 12:16pm PT
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Looks like a fun afternoon.
Thanks for posting it.
Prod.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Jun 21, 2010 - 12:31pm PT
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That's looks like a fun outing!
Thanks for posting it.
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Jun 23, 2010 - 12:24am PT
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Unique, I dig it.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jun 23, 2010 - 02:24pm PT
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Wow, talk about a breath of fresh air, SWEET!
Thanks.
I've done some swimming in the pools at the base of the upper falls.
Pretty spectacular setting eh?
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nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
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Jun 23, 2010 - 06:03pm PT
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This is definitely up my alley! Nice stuff, way to have a wonderful day!
Do you have any pics of the jump into the pool?
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M. Volland
Trad climber
Grand Canyon
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Author's Reply
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Jun 24, 2010 - 12:30am PT
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Nut
I do have more pictures of the pool, but they are of my buddy in his underwear. So I'm not going to post it on the net. There are many good photos that I didn't put in however, here is one of them:
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Jun 24, 2010 - 03:02pm PT
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Very cool, thanks for posting.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
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Jun 25, 2010 - 02:34am PT
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Thank you!
I was up on the fall trail recently when it was at its peak sending mist and spray everywhere. It was really interesting to see what that area looks like from another season and another view.
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Mikemcee
Social climber
Mill Valley, CA
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Jun 25, 2010 - 11:23am PT
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One of my favorite ST TR's....really cool outing. Thanks for sharing.
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Inner City
Trad climber
Portland, OR
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Jun 29, 2010 - 03:42pm PT
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great TR. The sunnyside bench route is 5.0? That's right up my alley. I'm gonna try and do this in the fall. Thanks for the great photos and report!
Dave R
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Jun 29, 2010 - 11:24pm PT
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outstanding
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Mason
Trad climber
Yay Area
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Jun 30, 2010 - 06:38pm PT
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That is really cool. There is just no short list of things to do in Yosemite.
Is that in a guidebook somewhere or are there more detailed directions on how to not get oneself killed doing this? That's definitely something I want to check out this fall.
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Mr_T
Trad climber
Northern California
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Jun 30, 2010 - 07:54pm PT
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That looks really sweet!
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M. Volland
Trad climber
Grand Canyon
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Author's Reply
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Jul 6, 2010 - 12:07pm PT
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Inner City-
Here is some info worth checking out before you head up the Sunnyside Bench Regular Route:
http://www.supertopo.com/rock-climbing/Yosemite-Valley-Sunnyside-Bench-Regular-Route
Mason-
This is an in your face obscurity. When we did it, we had just been told by an x-sar employee that rumor had it an old search and rescue rap route ran the duration of the middle tier of Yosemite Falls, and that it may or may not exist. There is no reference in any guidebook that I know of. I've never heard of anyone doing it, but judging by the quality of the rap stations, I would guess that someone does it every other year or so. As it turns out, its a pretty mellow outing. Have fun!
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Sep 22, 2010 - 02:05am PT
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Nice report
I think the green roper guide mentions the inner gorge
Gotta do it someday!
Peace
Karl
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cleo
Social climber
wherever you go, there you are
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Sep 23, 2010 - 01:18am PT
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Yep great route! Yes, you can rap the lower falls, but be very, very, very careful about rapping off the end of the rope... the second rappel station is on a little ledge about 62 meters down (only by rope stretch do you get there). There WAS another rap station a few meters higher, but no ledge to stand on..
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LB4USC
Trad climber
Long Beach
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Sep 23, 2010 - 03:33pm PT
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Bump for my buddy, Harry
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A.J.
Mountain climber
Boulder, CO
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Just got back from a trip where I went through Middle Earth (which is what this route is known as by SAR and Park personnel.) Thanks Marc, for the pics and sideband info!
For those attempting the last rap, I'd recommend a 230' rope and a 230' pull cord (and likely an extra rope, just in case.) I had a 220' (65M) rope with an additional 120' and 100' rope for working ropes/pull cords.
On the final rappel sequence, it looked like my rope was a little short for the lowest middle rap station (though I didn't go down to find out, so it may have made it there with rope stretch.)
There are three midway rap stations. You could likely get away with a 200' primary line if you wanted to rap down to the first mid-wall rap station (doesn't really have a ledge though), and then do another rap to the third station (which has a good ledge), and then finish off.
My 220 easily reached the second mid-wall rap station, and then barely reached the water from there. Fun rap! I'd guess the entire final rap down Lower Yosemite Falls to be around 420' total.
Great canyon overall. Took me around 6 hours car to car, for a solo descent. I had a bit more water than the original trip report. When water is flowing, I'd recommend a wetsuit and a drybag for your gear, as there were some pretty long swims.
Some pics for comparison...
Take care and be safe!
A.J.
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O.D.
Trad climber
LA LA Land
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Wow! Cool stuff!
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Wow! I'd hiked to the based of the Upper Fall in the winter of 1967-68, and I was aware of the 5.6 Gorge Traverse, but I've never connected them. Nice TR. Thanks much.
John
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nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
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AJ, that's a pretty spicy adventure to be going down solo with that much water!
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A.J.
Mountain climber
Boulder, CO
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Nut,
Yeah, I have to say the water flow made me think for a while, and I definitely considered bailing. Had been wanting to do this trip for around 6 years now, and just recently got done with a 10 day trip of waterfall canyons in CO (one of which I did solo, and several with two people) so I had some very recent experience. As well as I've done several other class C (moving water) canyons previously, as well as a few other solo canyon descents.
I didn't see anything too dangerous, so I decided to go for it. Definitely higher risk going solo, and I'm well aware of that and accept that risk. Had folks I was traveling with who knew where I was, and kept a watchful eye on things to make sure I knew where any possible exits were (note, there weren't many.) I also played it conservative with the downclimbs; to avoid any injury.
Saw some recent webbing, so I knew it had been descended recently; which also played into the decision. In the end, decided to go; and glad I did. Lots of fun.
Take care,
A.J.
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
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Canyoneering in Yosemite! Very cool! TFPU
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squishy
Mountain climber
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That looks like a lot of fun, I have been up there but didn't know there was a descent route down the falls..
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piquaclimber
Trad climber
SEKI
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That was really fun! Nice work and thanks for posting.
Brad
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Very cool. One of the different but very cool looking adventures. TFPU.
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M. Volland
Trad climber
Grand Canyon
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Author's Reply
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Sep 15, 2011 - 12:35pm PT
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I remember the water being very cold, and was happy that we reached the swimming section during mid day sunshine.
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A.J.
Mountain climber
Boulder, CO
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Sep 17, 2011 - 11:09pm PT
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Marc,
Water was definitely cold (honestly though, I expected it to be colder since it was flowing so well. Figured it would be snow-melt cold, coming from the pass up above... Must have either a spring contributing to the melt water, or have been warmed a bit on the way down.) Still would recommend a wetsuit for folks if the water is flowing (as it was for me), as the canyon will be quite full. If I remember correctly, there were 5 swims; one that was around 200' long. I didn't use a wetsuit, but since I was solo, was able to keep moving pretty well (and I'm pretty cold tolerant as well.) If there would have been time needed to stand around, definitely would have gotten cold. (The temps were in the 90's during the day, and got down to the 80's when the sun started to go down; so it was pretty warm outside too; which also helped me not need a wetsuit...)
There were several floating disconnects from the rappels; so set your rope length if you can (and/or use a contingency anchor if doing the canyon with flow.) There was only one rappel that I can remember where you are getting hit by the falls though - and that one is dispersed a bit, so it shouldn't have a dangerous boil unless it was really raging.
Fun stuff!
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Sep 17, 2011 - 11:33pm PT
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Bravo, what a grand adventure! Looks like a great group of buddies to do it with. Thanks for sharing! This is my second time through!
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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Sep 18, 2011 - 03:32am PT
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Off topic, but this (photo) looks like sucha cool boulder-field. About a 30 minute approach probably.
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PeterC
Trad climber
CA
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Jul 19, 2012 - 08:14pm PT
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Has anyone gone down the inner gorge yet this year? I'm interested in anchor conditions and whether the flow level is reasonable for a Saturday descent. Thanks in advance...
-Peter
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
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Jul 19, 2012 - 10:04pm PT
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cool!
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WBraun
climber
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Jul 19, 2012 - 10:14pm PT
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Has anyone gone down the inner gorge yet this year?
It's been done every year including this year.
You can also do it by going around around avoiding the water and down climbing a short section or if you're scared rappel.
The anchors are good, as we originally made them better years ago.
If they're bad you die :-)
Maybe ................................
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Some Random Guy
climber
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Jul 19, 2012 - 10:47pm PT
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awesome...gonna have to check that out it looks fun. a reconnaissance mission for lost arrow direct. thanx for the inspiration.
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DM88T
climber
Dave Tully SanDimas,California
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Jul 20, 2012 - 12:52am PT
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Friday July 13
You'r going to get wet,
...
maybe
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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Jul 20, 2012 - 01:22pm PT
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Nice report of a very cool adventure! All that major energy that usually fills that place was taking a break long enough for you guys to go through and catch the vibes. I remember reading an article some years back about Big Wall climbers going up the face of the falls when they were dry and putting up a route. I think one of the climbers was Rick Sylvester?? I have the article somewhere, anyone see it.........from the 80's maybe??
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PeterC
Trad climber
CA
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Jul 20, 2012 - 04:19pm PT
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Thanks for the comments, folks. I'll let you know how it goes!
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Jul 22, 2012 - 05:41pm PT
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Wow - looks like a blast. Nice report.
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PeterC
Trad climber
CA
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Jul 22, 2012 - 06:27pm PT
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Did the inner gorge yesterday (Sat, Jul 21st). The flow level is perfect right now - neither stagnant or scary. We found and removed from the 1st long rappel a rope which must have gotten stuck and been abandoned by a previous party. Must be an interesting story there? All the anchors are in good shape. We chose not to rap the lower falls because of the tourist scene. Fun times!
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climbski2
Mountain climber
The Ocean
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Jul 22, 2012 - 07:59pm PT
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PICS!!!
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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
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Jul 25, 2012 - 03:35pm PT
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Awesome!
Are there anchors to rap the Lower Falls as well? We're planning to do this soon.
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Osprey
climber
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Jul 28, 2012 - 01:31pm PT
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Cleo says higher up in the comment section that the rap into the lower amphitheater is bolted but use caution about rapping off the ends of your ropes.
We decided against it due to the large flock of gawkers down at the bridge area.
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Paul Martzen
Trad climber
Fresno
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Jul 31, 2012 - 02:05pm PT
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Very cool route. Been meaning to do this trip for years and finally got in there on Sunday. Just enough water to make a beautiful spray at the base of the upper falls. We had 70 meter ropes which was much more than needed for most of the raps. We rapped the lower Yosemite falls on the east side and the 70 m got us to a big ledge, while those with shorter ropes could stop at a smaller ledge higher up.
Our descent of the lower falls seemed only a minor addition for all the people still swimming in the pool at the base of the lower falls. People on the bridge and trail asked us if we were heading out or coming back.
We were slow getting up there and enjoyed ourselves at the top before starting in. By the time we got to the swims it was after 4 pm and shady. Two of us got pretty cold. The air temp was nice, so we stripped down to bare skin to dry off and warm up after each swim.
While it is super pretty, it is primarily a rappel route with little in the way of interesting canyoneering type downclimbing problems. The few downclimbs were fun and the two jumps were good, but it is just a very short route other than the long rappels which took a lot of time. Next time I will make sure to go in there with midday sun, so I can spend a lot more time swimming around in the pools and enjoying that aspect.
My two partners loved the rappels and were pretty blown away by the whole experience.
The drive back to Fresno was full of excited talk and sharing for awhile, but then faded into stupified tiredness.
Paul
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Ratagonia
Social climber
Mt Carmel, Utah
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Awesome, thanks Paul.
Anchors (the bolts) in good shape then, I presume. Webbing and rings easily replaceable, bolts quite a bit less so...
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Paul Martzen
Trad climber
Fresno
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Hey Tom,
All the bolts look solid. There are a very few smaller bolts and old hangers, but mixed with 3/8 bolts that all look great. Rap rings were mostly thick ones or doubled. I added a sling to one anchor and prudent people might replace some sling or add to it in a couple spots, but nothing was worn. At least one anchor early on was two pins.
In Mr. Volland's original report he suggests rapping from trees on one of the drops, but there were beefy anchors on the same side, at the lip of the falls that put you pretty much into the same landing zone. There was one more nice jump or short rap below the photo with the trees.
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Tammy Tucker
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Thank you so much for the beta. My brothers and I did this route yesterday and it was a blast! It was a little hot on the climbing route, but once we got into the canyon we were able to cool off. All the anchors were in great shape and we were able to get done before dark. We had a 200ft rope but we were not sure that it was enough for the lower falls which by the way had kind of a freaky anchor station. We will return another day to do that part. We did run into a rattlesnake on the way back on the walk off.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jesus, you can't even see where most of Klaus's routes go...
Cool pix, perfect time to hit it up.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
The Ocean
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Sep 26, 2013 - 01:24pm PT
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Really enjoyed this trip report. So much that I just got down from there an hour ago what a great trip
The last two raps can be done with 60M ropes. But pay attention which secondary anchor you use.
The 2nd to last pond (last one before the final raps) can be easily bypassed with a short low end 4th class scramble up the cliff just before the rap station then around and down some easy exposed terrain.
Last rap
End of the trip
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climbski2
Mountain climber
The Ocean
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Nov 12, 2013 - 04:31pm PT
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bbst and a really fun different type of Yosemite adventure.
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RyanD
climber
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Nov 12, 2013 - 04:46pm PT
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Yeah! This is cool!!!
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Nov 13, 2013 - 06:57am PT
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hey there say, m. volland.... wow, this is really really NICE!
will come back and see all the pics, later...
thank you so much for sharing...
(saw this was an older share) wonder if anyone else
also, had recently shared anything similar... ?
would like to see it, too...
:)
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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That place looks ssooooo cooool.
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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
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yeah it is! I'll be taking some people this summer when the Falls slow down and will re-sling all of the anchors. I've done it 2 years in a row and the same webbing is still there.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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I think I saw a Kohl route in one of your photos...
Nice look at a sweet spot, probably the coolest spot in all the yos waterfalls.
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Wow. Those are some great pictures. TFPU.
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