Trip Report
Working on the Winter El Cap Tan
Monday December 16, 2013 3:41pm
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After a quick email promising summer type conditions in the valley, I convinced Jason Wells to book a last minute flight from Boulder to meet me in So Cal. The thought of, "El Cap in December" Psych continued for a couple of days. Although after 14 hours of traveling, for some reason I noticed Jason's mood change a little as we drove past the, "chains required" sign with snow on the road and the car showing 22 degrees temps as we pulled into the campground at 9PM on Friday.
Our original plan of starting the Nose at 7AM quickly dissipated as the lodge opened their doors at 6:30, and we found ourselves trying to warm up with large quantities of coffee.
Unfortunately, the temp gauge wasn't helping with my promise of a guaranteed El Cap Tan.
Fortunately, an inversion was in the forecast and I kept reiterating that the temp is going to be 30-40 degrees warmer on EC than in the Valley. I kept Jason entertained for the next few minutes as I let my Juggs soak up the fresh heat from the dash board of our car.
In usual form, Jason took the sharp end from the get go and short fixed every pitch up to the pitch below the Great Roof while I held onto my jugg's.
Fortunately, at around 9AM the sun hit us and immediately we were able to work on the winter tan.
The temps continued to be perfect...as if we were in Hawaii.
We couldn't believe that every hour, the snow plow would come through the Meadow allowing the cars to drive through who would stop to open their window long enough to get a quick photo of the magical stone.
It was quite surreal to be climbing under perfect temps in the midst of snow all around us. It was great being on lead starting with the Great Roof while Jason would Mini-Traction off my short fix.
The winter light was amazing.
After topping out, we hit some snow and ice on the descent, but were still able to get down in a couple of hours. Tons better than expected.
Since I didn't need to get home until Sunday night and Jason didn't fly out until 8AM on Monday, we couldn't resist to hitting the SFWC under perfect conditions on Sunday.
The Valley is quite spectacular in December!
Tim Klein
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About the Author Tim Klein currently lives in the 5 Star Resort Town of Palmdale, California with his Wife JJ and two boys Levi and Jack. |
Comments
Grippa
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Dec 16, 2013 - 03:43pm PT
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that happened
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Prod
Trad climber
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Dec 16, 2013 - 04:00pm PT
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Awesome.
Prod.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Dec 16, 2013 - 11:06pm PT
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Nice. and toasty!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Dec 16, 2013 - 04:23pm PT
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so nice
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BFK
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Dec 16, 2013 - 04:57pm PT
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Is this the same Jason that did the Moonlight ascent of the Nose back in October just after the shutdown ended? If so, way to go on yet another NIAD!
I'm the guy you passed who was trying to figure out how to sleep on that ledge below camp 4.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Dec 16, 2013 - 06:17pm PT
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Hell yes.
That winter light magic comes through even in the blurry pics.
Had to be finger numbing granite on the first few pitches right?
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Dec 16, 2013 - 07:53pm PT
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not too shabby
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moacman
Trad climber
Montuckyian Via Canada Eh!
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Dec 16, 2013 - 08:02pm PT
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Very good job lads...Thanx for sharing.........
Stevo
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Dec 16, 2013 - 10:44pm PT
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Now that's what I'm talking about - SWEEET!
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Reeotch
climber
4 Corners Area
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Dec 16, 2013 - 10:57pm PT
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Woah!
So, how was the descent???
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Newbury Park
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Dec 17, 2013 - 02:00pm PT
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Fantastic stuff. Looks like a blast! The valley sure is spectacular this time of year.....but shhhhhhhhh!
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kaholatingtong
Trad climber
The fake McCoy from nevernever land.
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Dec 17, 2013 - 02:11pm PT
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quality experience, no doubt.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Dec 17, 2013 - 02:14pm PT
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Damn nice work MEN!!
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Andy Fielding
Trad climber
UK
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Dec 17, 2013 - 06:06pm PT
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Love that glow of the sun on your last pitch picture. Nice report, thanks.
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J Wells
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Dec 17, 2013 - 06:22pm PT
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Ohhh wow, every time we come back to the Valley it just keeps getting better. This was one of the most fun times on the Nose yet. BK, yes that was us in October. It was nice talking to you! How did the rest of your trip go?
Regarding temps, with the car thermometer reading 20F Saturday morning and snow covering the road, I felt justified in mentioning to Tim that temps for the first few pitches might be a bit chilly. He promptly replied that it would be no problem for him since he had heated up his ascenders with the car heater.
We were prepared for an epic descent, but the rope didn’t get used once and we had all kinds of fun slipping on snow and occasional ice. The slabs before the fixed lines were snow covered so we did take a little detour there.
I was able to convince Tim that night climbing in December really might not be all that fun, which meant that we got to enjoy some post El Cap beers while looking at moonlit snow and cliffs all around us. We arose at the crack of dawn the next day, or 7am, and quickly bolted for ... the Lodge! Wow, these winter trips are luxurious. We spent 2 hours at the Lodge cracking jokes and getting wired on Peets coffee. Tim brought up that I have never climbed the South Face of the Column during the daylight and convinced me that it really might be a quite enjoyable during the day. Another stellar winter Valley sunset and we were on our way to Tim's house in So Cal, which we hit by 10pm.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Dec 17, 2013 - 06:24pm PT
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Amazing!
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Dec 17, 2013 - 08:44pm PT
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Wow!
Way to go boys!!!!
That's darn quick!
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Dec 17, 2013 - 10:05pm PT
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Sh#t howdy . . . gettin' 'er done.
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JOEY.F
Gym climber
It's not rocket surgery
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Dec 17, 2013 - 10:30pm PT
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Magic!
Enjoyed your TR very much.
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Jim Herson
climber
Emerald Hills, CA
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Dec 18, 2013 - 01:21pm PT
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No rain? You guys are off your game. Good job managing to have fun anyway.
Great job! Nice cool down on the SFWC. The civilized 10pm return home was unfortunate but otherwise an outstanding weekend!
-Jim
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RyanD
climber
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Dec 18, 2013 - 01:41pm PT
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Good job!
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Dec 18, 2013 - 01:44pm PT
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Oh California.... <3
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melski
Trad climber
bytheriver
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Jan 24, 2014 - 09:12pm PT
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TUBES OF EFICENCY,,,BOY HOWDY,,,
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Just bumping this old trip report as a tribute to these guys who just perished on El Cap this weekend. Truly sad but inspiring to read of their stoke and love for the game and the way they inspired climbing community with their "every day workin' man's" approach to big adventures.
My condolences.
Scott
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HoMan
Trad climber
Wasteville,CA
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Those two are some of the best ever. May their stoke and energy continue to flow. RIP
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