Trip Report
Winter Ascent of The Watchtower via Moonage Daydream
Tuesday February 26, 2013 1:37pm
|
|
For pictures of better quality check my blog:
http://vividrea1ity.blogspot.com/2013/02/winter-ascent-of-watchtower-via-moonage.html
One more entry I did not post here:
http://vividrea1ity.blogspot.com/2013/01/back-to-roots.html
Moonage Daydream on The Watchtower is one of the routes I obsessed about for a while. It is located in Sequoia National Park, which is known for it's giant sequoia trees and striking granite spires. General Grant giant sequoia is the largest tree in the state, and third largest in the world. By a coincidence Moonage Daydream is the longest (about 800 ft or so) water ice climb in CA, that actually forms almost yearly (there are a few other climbs that are longer, but they usually form once in several years, and stay in shape for short weather windows). Aside from being one of the longest, it is rarely done. After climbing it on 2/16/2013 I am 99% sure we were the first ones to climb it this year.
After convincing my partners that an alpine start is better than a cold bivy at the base, we started hiking out from Lodgepole at a very early hour- around 7am! Somehow we managed not to fall into the river while crossing it, and break trail to the base of the climb. 'Good from far, far from good' was the first thing that got on my mind when I saw the climb up close. It looked really well formed from the approach, but now it was obvious that first pitch was not yet formed into a continuous ice flow. This would mean we would need to do some desperate scratching on granite with our crampons! Yay!
I took the first pitch and found it a bit spicy. After the first section which was formed in a weird way I transferred right, into a left facing corner. At the bottom of it were two pitons with a bail sling. Ignoring the hint, I continued up the unprotected dihedral- on 02/16/2013 the ice here was too thin for any type of a screw. I got to a fixed nut with a bail biner and tried to swing over to the ice flow without any success. Ignoring the second point from which other people have bailed from, I went up and encountered the crux of this pitch (it was so awesome I even used a few stein pulls!), which was the climb in the upper dihedral and traverse left to the ice flow. Climbing granite with crampons while placing cams in cracks full of ice keeps you alert. It also keeps you from going fast. This pitch took me forever!
Since I was a bit cold I asked for the next pitch too, which seemed like a nice wi3+ flow. It went fast and Adam took pitch number three in good style- another wi3+ish quality pitch. All three of us were happy with how quick we moved after reaching solid ice.
Mike took over for pitches 4 and 5. Both of which were long and low angle. By the time we were done with these, our calves were on fire! No wonder- this was the longest ice route for all three of us. We were not done yet though, we still had to break trail for another 400 feet or so through a knee deep Sierra cement. Summit of the Watchtower had a stunning view, and reaching it in winter via Moonage Daydream was an icing on the cake.
Vitaliy M.
|
|
About the Author Vitaliy M. is annoying gym climber from San Francisco. |
Comments
ec
climber
ca
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2013 - 01:41pm PT
|
cool!
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
Author's Reply
|
Feb 26, 2013 - 01:42pm PT
|
EC you must have some kind of an alarm! You respond to posts about Sequoia within seconds! Love it.
|
|
Levy
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2013 - 01:49pm PT
|
Killer job guys! You seldom hear about that route, or much of anything in Sequoia NP. Looks like a nice route.
|
|
RyanD
climber
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2013 - 01:59pm PT
|
Nice one Vitaliy, you're really getting down on the ice this year. Cool report & some nice photos too, as an ice virgin i've learned a fair bit from your reports this year, not quite enough to get me out there but it is intriguing. Way to go man & say what's up to Dingus Burchnamara for us too!
|
|
limpingcrab
Gym climber
Minkler, CA
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2013 - 02:11pm PT
|
West side is the best side!
Sorry I didn't head over from the cabin to get pictures of you guys like I was hoping to, the Mrs and friends wanted to go to Hume Lake. No worries 'cause it looks like you got really awesome pictures anyway!
Thanks for the post, and great job on the climb even though ice climbing is God's way of weeding out the tards :-)
|
|
Reeotch
climber
4 Corners Area
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2013 - 02:17pm PT
|
Awesome! Multi pitch ice in Southern California!
|
|
JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2013 - 02:45pm PT
|
I like to think of it as Central California, Reeotch. Either way, I really appreciate this wonderful TR.
Thanks much.
John
|
|
mhay
climber
Bishop, CA
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2013 - 02:58pm PT
|
Reeotch used to live in Arcata, so everything south of Ukiah is Southern California to him.
Great TR. That first pitch is impressive!
|
|
10b4me
Social climber
Lida Junction
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2013 - 03:27pm PT
|
good job
|
|
neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2013 - 03:29pm PT
|
hey there say, vitaliy... wow, the pics are even showing, for me!
very nice stuff here...
neat share, ... enjoyed seeing your joy, i all this, too...
god bless...
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2013 - 03:30pm PT
|
+1 for Central Cal, not so cal.
V, another nice trip report. Again, way to get after it!
That blue ice on the last pitch looks stunning.
|
|
Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2013 - 03:41pm PT
|
Very Cool! Nice Pics too. Good to see some action in Seki.
|
|
snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2013 - 04:22pm PT
|
Epic sun behind the tree!
|
|
malabarista
Trad climber
Portland, OR
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2013 - 05:40pm PT
|
That's awesome guys. I actually fell on that route and had to bail when I tried it. Haven't tried it since. Congratulations!
|
|
micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2013 - 06:12pm PT
|
Supersick send fellas! Cen Cal reprezentin!!! Watchtizzower in the Hizzouse!!
|
|
Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2013 - 06:20pm PT
|
Wow Vitaliy, nice. And to think, only a couple of years ago, you were posting on Summitpost about how to get started ice climbing. You've come a long way dude.
|
|
guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2013 - 06:28pm PT
|
Very Nice.
|
|
Peter Amend
climber
Visalia, CA
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2013 - 07:00pm PT
|
Great TR, dude.
I skied up to the base a few weeks back and wondered if anyone had summited this year yet.
Still haven't made it onto ice yet, but man this makes me want to grab some gear. If you ever want to climb with an ice newb, I'm here in Visalia and can make it up to Seki quite often.
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Feb 27, 2013 - 12:17am PT
|
Bravo V!!
Diggin your affinity for obscure southern rock.
er..Seki ice
|
|
wbw
Trad climber
'cross the great divide
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2013 - 10:19pm PT
|
Looks like a magical day. Thanks for the great TR.
|
|
Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Feb 27, 2013 - 12:16am PT
|
thanks for that.
|
|
Gal
Trad climber
going big air to fakie
|
|
|
Feb 27, 2013 - 12:31am PT
|
wow, really nice... that sunset tree pic is one of the most amazing pics.
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
|
Feb 27, 2013 - 12:46am PT
|
Vita, you really are annoying in the amount that you get out and the inordinate amount of fun you have!
And the reason there wasn't a queue for this climb was what? Oh, yeah, it is outside and the holds aren't numbered?
|
|
climbski2
Mountain climber
The Ocean
|
|
|
Feb 27, 2013 - 12:47am PT
|
Reilly stole my post.
You are definitely having too much fun.
|
|
murcy
Gym climber
sanfrancisco
|
|
|
Feb 27, 2013 - 12:51am PT
|
Sweet, Vitaliy!!!!
|
|
lucho
Trad climber
California
|
|
|
Feb 27, 2013 - 01:12am PT
|
Nice send! Thanks for sharing!
|
|
SeanH
Trad climber
SLC
|
|
|
Feb 27, 2013 - 04:11am PT
|
Props Vitaliy!
|
|
Brian Biega
climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
|
Feb 27, 2013 - 09:05am PT
|
Hi Vitaliy-
Way to go! Looks like a great climb.
Thanks for sharing.
Cheers, Brian
|
|
Stewart Johnson
Gym climber
top lake
|
|
|
Feb 27, 2013 - 09:33am PT
|
nice work! how about a new harness? youve earned it!
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
Author's Reply
|
Feb 27, 2013 - 10:46am PT
|
Thanks for great responses everyone!
RyanD, Dingus Burchnamara is doing good. I don't think we stopped laughing that day.
Fat Dad, remember when I asked (on summitpost forum) about how to set up a top rope on Bard Harrington/Main Walls? Good times!
that sunset tree pic is one of the most amazing pics.
One of my best sunset pics I think. Sunsets on the west side are a lot better for sure!
how about a new harness? youve earned it! Very true. Sucks being in that on hanging belays...
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Feb 27, 2013 - 11:06am PT
|
Way to get after it Vitaliy M. & team...
...my friend Will used to opine that showing up is 90% of life... and you've been showing up excellently!
thanks for posting the TR
|
|
lars johansen
Trad climber
West Marin, CA
|
|
|
Feb 27, 2013 - 03:24pm PT
|
Nice work guys. Love the alpenglow shots.
lars
|
|
bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
|
|
|
Feb 27, 2013 - 03:27pm PT
|
Way to keep the momentum up ! Spring is just around the corner ....
|
|
phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
|
|
|
Feb 27, 2013 - 09:01pm PT
|
Great job, Vitaliy! Thanks for sharing it!
Phyl
|
|
Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
|
|
Nice V, thanks!!!!
|
|
BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
|
|
Nice pics and looks like you got good conditions!
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
ice bump
nice job guys!
|
|
climblight
Mountain climber
Northern NV
|
|
Way to get after it! There is a BIG climb just west of moonage in the right conditions.
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
Author's Reply
|
Mar 5, 2013 - 02:15pm PT
|
BMcC, when I was on first pitch I wished the ice touched all the way. Now that I think about it, the challenge we got was worth it. Not much feels better than getting some good mixed climbing in CA :)
climblight, that flow would be awesome to climb if it ever forms up again. Looked thin, wet, and wasn't even half way down the face when we went.
Anyone else climbed Moonage after us? Would love to hear how it is doing now...
|
|
SLOClimber
climber
Central Coast, Ca
|
|
Nice job up there! Here's a pic from 2/9/13. Looks a little fatter and likely reaches all the way down.
|
|
westhegimp
Social climber
granada hills
|
|
WhooHoo
Nice send. Great adventure guys. Thanks for the TR.
Wes
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
Author's Reply
|
Mar 8, 2013 - 12:05pm PT
|
SLO climber, if your picture is from 2/9/13 like you say, it did not reach down all the way. We climbed it on the 16th. There was a section one must climb on the rock to get to the ice.
Since weather been crap, we will get out there this weekend and maybe climb the route again. It was damn fun the first time we went...and we saw other ice in the canyon.
|
|
SLOClimber
climber
Central Coast, Ca
|
|
|
Mar 11, 2013 - 12:52pm PT
|
Yep, the photo was taken on 2/9. Hopefully, you found it still in shape over the weekend. I've seen those climbs in Tokopah radically change from weekend to weekend. Here's a picture of Hoppy's Favorite also taken on 2/9 with a decent connection between the first and second pitch.
|
|
noriko nakagawa
Trad climber
sw utah
|
|
|
Mar 11, 2013 - 06:10pm PT
|
Congrats on another nice send, Vitaliy!
|
|
|
|
|
Recent Trip Reports
- The Kohala Ditch Trail: 36ish hrs on foot... to and from the headwaters. [5 of 5]
May 31, 2019; 11:57pm
- A Winter Traverse of the California section of the PCT Part 8
May 31, 2019; 11:18pm
- Supertopo,A trip report for posterity
May 31, 2019; 11:00pm
- Balch Fest 2013. Two Days in and Around and On The Flake. The Official Trip Report
May 31, 2019; 10:57pm
- TR: My visit to the Canoe
May 31, 2019; 10:24pm
- Death, Alpine Climbing, The Shield on El Cap
May 31, 2019; 4:07pm
- Andy Nisbet (1953-2019)
May 31, 2019; 2:11pm
- Drama on Baboquivari Peak
May 31, 2019; 1:19pm
- Joffre + The Aemmer Couloir: ski descents come unexpected catharsis [part 2]
May 31, 2019; 7:45am
- Lost To The Sea, by Disaster Master
May 30, 2019; 5:36am
- My Up And Down Life, Disaster Master
May 29, 2019; 11:44pm
- Halibut Hats and Climbers-What Gives?
May 29, 2019; 7:24pm
- G Rubberfat Overhang-First Ascent 1961
May 29, 2019; 12:28pm
- Coonyard Pinnacle 50 Years Later
May 29, 2019; 12:24pm
- Great Pumpkin with Mr Kamps and McClinsky- 1971
May 29, 2019; 12:02pm
- View more trip reports >
|