Trip Report
Wide Weekend, Joshua Tree
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Sunday April 12, 2009 10:42pm
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I'll post photos. The rest can tell the story.
Photos by Blitzo.
Blitzo
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About the Author
Blitzo is a social climber from Earth. |
Comments
WBraun
climber
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Apr 12, 2009 - 10:54pm PT
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Everyone looks, kinda, lemme see, ah yes, that's it .....
..... too clean?
Happy Easter ....
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 12, 2009 - 10:55pm PT
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were you there too, Bluto?
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Apr 12, 2009 - 10:55pm PT
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For sure the "before" photo.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Apr 12, 2009 - 11:16pm PT
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looks like some fun was had. rock on!
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Apr 12, 2009 - 11:19pm PT
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Check out that Jaybro on the Flared White Buffalo!!
Nice!
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nita
Social climber
chica de chico, I don't claim to be a daisy.
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Apr 12, 2009 - 11:41pm PT
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Blitzo, is that the Lovely Miss L?... Also, is/was Errett Allen around? If so..Please tell him Hi!
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Blitzo
Social climber
Earth
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Author's Reply
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Apr 12, 2009 - 11:59pm PT
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Photo by Blitzo.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Apr 13, 2009 - 12:01am PT
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Blitzo, love the tv shot with the guys in it.
more please
was it howling wind today? it was on the coast.
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Blitzo
Social climber
Earth
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Author's Reply
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Apr 13, 2009 - 12:36am PT
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Photos by Blitzo.
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Blitzo
Social climber
Earth
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Author's Reply
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Apr 13, 2009 - 12:39am PT
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Nita, Yes that is L. Errett was here for a week, but that's another story.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Trad climber
Will know soon
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Apr 13, 2009 - 01:24am PT
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Yeah, they do look kinda clean and in one photo a little "laid back". :D
Where the old painters pants, headbands and "banded" sport socks ?
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Trad climber
Will know soon
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Apr 13, 2009 - 01:26am PT
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But MY personal favorite photo....the vulture circling Ed and Fish...hehehe, pretty hilarious.
Edit: OBTW, youse guys ...read Blitzo et al ...yo need to post the names of rocks and climbers under your Beautiful Photos...:DDD Cheers, Lynne
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murcy
Gym climber
sanfrancisco
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Apr 13, 2009 - 01:43am PT
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Sweet. Looks like great climbing, plus y'all are striking poses that would make J. Crew jealous.
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goatboy smellz
climber
Gulf Breeze
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Apr 13, 2009 - 09:30am PT
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What a stylish bunch, you look MARVelous!
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Chris2
Trad climber
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Apr 13, 2009 - 10:03am PT
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Was that second photo, "The Good, The Bad and The Ugly?"
It has been some time, since I climbed it.
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divad
Trad climber
wmass
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Apr 13, 2009 - 10:10am PT
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Cheers to y'all. Nice way to spend Easter.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Apr 13, 2009 - 10:11am PT
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Nice stuff! Looks like a lot of fun - thanks for sharing it.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 13, 2009 - 10:26am PT
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more to come, don't nuke, Bluto!
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Blitzo
Social climber
Earth
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Author's Reply
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Apr 13, 2009 - 10:57am PT
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Photos by Blitzo.
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
www.climbaddictdesigns.com
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Apr 13, 2009 - 11:02am PT
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Nice photos! That one landscape just above looks like Hershey's Kisses....
Look at the faces on some of those. Good captures! And, yeah, the bird in the party is pretty damned cool.
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lars johansen
Trad climber
West Marin, CA
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Apr 13, 2009 - 11:11am PT
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I saw more than one pair of Boreal Ballets. Gotta' love it!
lars
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Apr 13, 2009 - 11:18am PT
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Lars, you are in dreamland. Those are all La Sportiva Kaukulators.
They have attained some serious cult status. That is, a small group of maldjusted
fanatics cannot live without them. I emphasize small.
Semi-good eye, though.
Aren't these some GREAT pictures being posted up?
It looks like some very satisfied customers to me ( I was there for only part of this
outing.)
Go, Blitzo, Go!!!!!!!11666
As everyone says, that shot of the vulture with the crew is killer, so to speak.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 13, 2009 - 11:22am PT
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Matching rugby shirts from an Eastern Bloc time vault?
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Apr 13, 2009 - 11:42am PT
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L & or Beth, called us the lollipop twins
(Jaybro posting under scuffy's name)
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Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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Apr 13, 2009 - 12:10pm PT
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NICE!! Bummed to have missed it. Definitely diggin' the team uniforms, and that vulture shot is fantastic. Any pics of the porcine spread?
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Apr 13, 2009 - 12:23pm PT
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ed - did you give up on your JBs?
Nice post - thanks!
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Zander
climber
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Apr 13, 2009 - 12:28pm PT
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Awesome pics.
Looks like a lot of fun. Wish I was there.
Zander
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 13, 2009 - 01:41pm PT
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It ain't over, yet...
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 13, 2009 - 02:04pm PT
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Apr 13, 2009 - 02:17pm PT
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Weekend is a state of mind, and also the state of my carcass after yesterday...weakened.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA/Joshua Tree
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Apr 13, 2009 - 02:24pm PT
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Most of my pics I have to rotate so I'll be posting slowly.
scuffy sending:
Getting ready for TG. And yes, while we look like J-Crew ripoffs, rugby shirts are the only way to go into the wide:
Representing!
Ed looking good in the JT sunshine.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA/Joshua Tree
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Apr 13, 2009 - 02:27pm PT
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Oh, and here's a nice example of where glory starts well above 4 inches. The start of the gristle and it only gets worse.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Apr 13, 2009 - 02:34pm PT
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Fluoride running it way out in the Real Hidden Valley...look at that rope.
Photo by Blitzo.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA/Joshua Tree
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Apr 13, 2009 - 02:52pm PT
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I'm not that bold. It just happened to look that way.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 13, 2009 - 03:05pm PT
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yeah, you Do look pretty bold...
appears it's a rest day here in the high dessert, except for that guy leaving to his little league ball game.
and, btw, Skip much to her credit, did not have the J Crew thing going!
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Blitzo
Social climber
Earth
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Author's Reply
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Apr 13, 2009 - 03:36pm PT
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Mandatory butt shot.
Will on Where Janitors Dare.
Mr. E and Justthemaid on Illusion Dweller.
Photos by Blitzo.
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Blitzo
Social climber
Earth
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Author's Reply
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Apr 13, 2009 - 03:37pm PT
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Beth, I like your photo of Jerry Garcia.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Apr 13, 2009 - 03:50pm PT
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Yess!!!! is Fish wearing a freakin' swami?
Badass pics! Especially Blitzo.
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Apr 13, 2009 - 04:05pm PT
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Scary !!! You people are serious preverts ;)
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Apr 13, 2009 - 04:14pm PT
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Where's the medium Sooze? Don't see her in the pics.
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Blitzo
Social climber
Earth
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Author's Reply
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Apr 13, 2009 - 05:07pm PT
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Sooze and Russ didn't make it out on Saturday. Sooze went back to AZ on Sunday.
Where was steelmnkey?
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Apr 13, 2009 - 05:32pm PT
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Ah... wondered why the lack of Sooze pics.
I was out doing guidebook research... that's what happens when you can't climb for sh*t. :-)
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 13, 2009 - 05:38pm PT
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The overpowered tower, FFA (free solo)
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Apr 13, 2009 - 05:47pm PT
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You wide guys in the matching rugby shirts are the New Kids on the Block or Menudo of rock climbing! That officially rules. Keep it up and make us all proud.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Apr 13, 2009 - 05:53pm PT
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i can't imagine why ed's hips hurt.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 13, 2009 - 06:03pm PT
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Russ, Scuffy and I all have Swamis, three inch tubular. Once we decide on a Rugby shirt for Scuffy we'll get into some Serious posing.
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goatboy smellz
climber
Gulf Breeze
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Apr 13, 2009 - 06:14pm PT
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This place could use a little more seriousness right about now.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Apr 13, 2009 - 06:14pm PT
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Where's Ed's rugby shirt?
Is it just me, or does it seem like an offwidth or squeeze would be the very last place that Flouride would want to be? I'm just sayin...
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Trad climber
Will know soon
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Apr 13, 2009 - 06:24pm PT
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Awesome pics Beth and Blitzo....looks like life and the weather was/is grate ! Sweet.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 13, 2009 - 06:33pm PT
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blasted off from the compound at 4:00am and was back home at noon... 510 OW has passed it's shakedown voyage with flying colors... 900 mile round trip, averaged roughly 29 mpg, top speeds of 85 mph (following a driven spyork past the indian casino)...
going off to see the Red Sox v. Oakland A's right now
I'll post some pix and videos later (probably teasers with links over to the WF site)...
my rugby shirt is the yellow model from back in the mid-80's... I was, apparently, ahead of my time.... Russ and I prefer more muted tones...
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Blitzo
Social climber
Earth
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Author's Reply
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Apr 13, 2009 - 06:40pm PT
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Russ was complaining about his toes.
Photo by Blitzo.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Apr 13, 2009 - 07:31pm PT
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Hey Blitzo
Great stuff, , ,but how come we only got but shots of our
missing friend, the divine miss L?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 13, 2009 - 07:40pm PT
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We used to climb in Rugby shirts all the time, in Laramie in the 70's. I wore one on the first ascent of Lucille. Until this weekend I had forgotten how comfy they are. Thicker and more durable than the black Descente mock Turlenecks I've been cruising the wide infor the last decade or so. Maybe my new power shirt will allow me to regain some wide skills!
Available in the wideftish store.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Apr 13, 2009 - 10:53pm PT
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Hey there...say... does that rugby shirt from the WF store come with the WideFetish logo on the front?
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Blitzo
Social climber
Earth
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Author's Reply
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Apr 14, 2009 - 01:17am PT
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No logo on the rugby shirts.
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Apr 14, 2009 - 08:33am PT
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No logo but the implicit message seems to be, "I surfed the Web and all I got was a Wide Fetish."
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MisterE
Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
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Apr 14, 2009 - 12:07pm PT
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Posting From "Club Meh!"
Russ on "Throbbing Gristle":
Skip topping out on Modern Warfare (note wild Muppet Hair):
ScuffyB on Lead:
Cashing In on Our Rugby Shirt Fixations:
And the models:
Hanging At The Fish Compound:
Getting ready for a day of wide:
More later.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Apr 14, 2009 - 05:56pm PT
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Bump for some of my favorite climbing peeps.
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Anastasia
climber
Home
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Apr 14, 2009 - 06:01pm PT
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Bump! :) People look so well dressed!
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spyork
Trad climber
Tunneling out of prison
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Apr 14, 2009 - 07:02pm PT
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Blood, Sweat, and Kingsbury's
Gimme an update when Scuffy sends that rig.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 15, 2009 - 04:01am PT
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on Saturday 4/11 the tribe gathered out at the Real Hidden Valley. First stop was The Good, Bad and The Ugly, 5.10a
Mr. Smooth turning the corner
Elcapinyoazz out from the corner heading for the offwidth section
spyork entering the offwidth section...
"Team Wide" yodeling from the top of Hidden Tower after the ascent of Wild Wind, 5.9
Jaybro on the The Sentinel - West Face starting on Flared Bear, 5.8
MisterE and justthemade on Illusion Dweller, 5.10b
Elcapinyoazz in Where Janitors Dare, 5.7
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 15, 2009 - 04:11am PT
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Thanks, Edzilla
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 15, 2009 - 04:11am PT
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On Sunday, 4/12.. out to Beak Boulder...
Fluoride in the foreground, Jaybro in the background
The man himself... the human embodiment of WideFetish
Fluoride cranks into the crux of Modern Warfare, 5.10a
Blitzo, Elcapinyoazz and Russ get ready to touch Throbbing Gristle, 5.12a
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 15, 2009 - 04:34am PT
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Russ gets eja... [whatever] from Throbbing Gristle
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 15, 2009 - 09:58am PT
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Hoh Man, Cartooni, I feel like I'm there, again!
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J. Werlin
Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
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Apr 15, 2009 - 10:47am PT
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Brilliant! Thanks for all the fun gentlemen.
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MisterE
Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
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Apr 15, 2009 - 11:17am PT
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Jay - did anyone send that wide roof rig?
Trying to figure out if Russ owes me that two bucks...
Great to see everyone again!
Erik
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Apr 15, 2009 - 12:26pm PT
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Great fun everyone.
Somewhere between peeling the tape off the back of my shredded hands and hanging off that painful overhanging knee-jam on Modern Warfare... I think I fell in love with the wide.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Apr 15, 2009 - 12:36pm PT
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that GIF is GOLD!!!!!!!!!!!111111111666
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 15, 2009 - 12:38pm PT
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and um yeah, even though he's in the other room and can speak for himself, my understanding is, Mussy owes you $2
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Apr 15, 2009 - 01:12pm PT
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I WANT MY TWO DOLLARS!
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
www.climbaddictdesigns.com
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Apr 15, 2009 - 01:32pm PT
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hahaha - Look at that - Stacked fists in one frame and ...booooiiiiinnnnngggggg....in the next. hahahah.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 15, 2009 - 02:22pm PT
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I couldn't even get off the ground, well maybe I made a feeble attempt to establish in the crack, but so stressed my biceps attachments on my right arm in the arm bars that that made me back off for now.
Getting as high as Russ did, and then Jaybro and Elcapinyoazz, that was amazing!
And they all did multiple attempts at the thing. The "Secret New Method" just might work, after all... but with the rope guns they have down there now, wow, I'm expecting a report of success sometime this week!
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MisterE
Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
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Apr 15, 2009 - 02:24pm PT
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I edited some pictures, and here's some more:
Saturday at Real Hidden Valley. Skip, Blitzo, Jaybro, Flouride, Will and L:
Slideshow at "He Is Risen!" party:
and an Aldude sighting Saturday night:
Justthemaid and Flouride on Sunday:
Blitzo: Bridge Protector!
"Waiting to clean up after lost human flesh, the vulture hovers..."
Skip hiding from the scary off-width in her designated Muppet Den:
Spyork and Ed representing!:
That guy that reminds me of Chuck Pratt:
Ed climbing:
The Beak Boulders, the cool fin goes free-solo at 5.7 (according to Tucker):
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Apr 15, 2009 - 04:47pm PT
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Blitzo
Social climber
Earth
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Author's Reply
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Apr 15, 2009 - 06:19pm PT
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Great photos everyone!
Vulva Wyoming?
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richross
Trad climber
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Apr 15, 2009 - 06:47pm PT
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Gumby wishes he could have made it.
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MisterE
Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
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Apr 15, 2009 - 07:05pm PT
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Oh, Gumby was there - his name is MisterE.
We watched Scuffy lead Flared Bear, and thought it was so cool, we went and did Illusion Dweller instead.
8^0
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Apr 15, 2009 - 07:28pm PT
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wicked good wide overhangness
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Apr 15, 2009 - 10:38pm PT
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Elders of the Wide--I'm bummed to have missed you. Looks like you all pushed the "fun" meter into the red. I did make it into the park but the only wide I got after came on four legs:
These guys and gals definitely are doing the wide with pride!
I also caught some nice flowering cacti action:
Maybe next year I'll finally get a taste of the Gristle.
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JOEY.F
Gym climber
It's not rocket surgery
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Apr 16, 2009 - 12:36am PT
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I've been following this thread for a while,
enjoying the pictures. I've got to check
out the wide. You guys look like you're having
more fun than humans are allowed.
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Dirka
Trad climber
Hustle City
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Apr 16, 2009 - 01:52am PT
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Whoop Whoop!
Ed'is;stan POWER>.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 16, 2009 - 03:26am PT
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Another day in the wide
fortunately Em was there, beating out the slabbys on the way to the anchor by racing up the no star chimbly
More later, long day. Busy climbing driving and arranging moments like this;
though I did find time to accessorize the Jcrew look with a leopard skin Kingsbury
( had to dispatch and skin the cat by hand, on my own).
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA/Joshua Tree
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Apr 16, 2009 - 04:29am PT
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Niiiice Jaybro!! Now THAT is a killer Kingsbury. No garden gnome effect with that lid.
Did Russ make that with ears on top?
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Apr 16, 2009 - 06:50am PT
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Glad to see that I'm not the only one who's a little "wider" than I used to be!!
Great trip, great photos!
I love the sequence of the fist stack popping, YIKES!!
I ain't goin' near that heinous pig.....
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 16, 2009 - 08:52am PT
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fluoride, nah, it's a standard kingsbury tube, the ears are achieved with rubber bands. Nurse ratchet's idea.
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crøtch
climber
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Apr 16, 2009 - 09:45am PT
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Sweet Kingsbury, Jaybro! That photo made me
LOL
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 16, 2009 - 10:50am PT
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More from the last few days, as cup o joe three starts opening my portals...
Freddy and and Scuffy b warm up for the wide on butterfly, a gimmee .11 solo before the erosion / mass wasting that made the climb longer.
Scuffy Claimed to break his foot on one of the dismounts, but it got better...
In another time's forgotten space (a euphemism, not a route name)
elcapinyaz establishing a highpoint later in the day
always have the smallest spot the largest (dig the Kingsbury!)
an action Sequence;
Okay, enough watching, more climbing, first, more Garuda
claymation style edit; That gumby, dammit!
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Apr 16, 2009 - 11:21am PT
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You guys are animals.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 16, 2009 - 11:48am PT
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eeyonkee, Throbbing Gristle is your side in, for sure! Love to see you send that problem.
As on offwidth, it's pure armbars
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MisterE
Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
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Apr 16, 2009 - 11:56am PT
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I'm with Skip - I want to get better at these things!
The wide crew inspired us to further seek beyond-fist rock-wrassling. We're hooked, but still scared and weak!
Top-rope training, here we come!
Thanks again to a great bunch of folks, we had a blast!
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J. Werlin
Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
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Apr 16, 2009 - 12:55pm PT
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Thanks for the video Ed. Very enjoyable.
You're getting better and better with the camera/editing.
When does Russ get to star in his own show?
I don't have or watch TV, but I'm guessing he's funnier
and more entertaining than 99.9% of the boob tube noobs.
Will looked awfully calm for being locked in the clutches of the Gristle.
Cheers.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 16, 2009 - 12:58pm PT
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Russ has long been the star in his own series...
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Apr 16, 2009 - 01:58pm PT
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I've got an idea for a movie. Richard Gere could play Dick Cilley, Dick could play Clean Dan, and Russ could play himself. Now, for a plot...
Gee, I wish could play OW with you guys.
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MisterE
Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
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Apr 17, 2009 - 12:45am PT
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Bump for the CoreCrew®
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Apr 17, 2009 - 03:14am PT
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looks like a precise spot where folks pop.
looks like a kinds of pimping on the lip with the left
looks like Will(?) is freaking dialed in on that first part
looks like I better get my ass to Josh for a day after Tahquitz
... and train a lot harder...
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 17, 2009 - 03:36am PT
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Freddy focuses on future Fatty.
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dickcilley
Social climber
Wisteria Ln.
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Apr 17, 2009 - 08:57am PT
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WOW,You guys got wide.You got babes.Now all that is needed is a guy that can climb wide and take care of the babes at the same time.I´ll be in the states from May 20 on.Book your quality time slot now.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 17, 2009 - 09:14am PT
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Gird up your loins, guard your daughters, and set your shitalk filter/emmiters on stun. The Cilley one is on the move!
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Apr 17, 2009 - 11:26am PT
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So Dick, should I book that appt. now or have my people call your people?
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MisterE
Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
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Apr 17, 2009 - 11:27am PT
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Meh?!!
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Apr 17, 2009 - 11:33am PT
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Come to think of it, Richard Gere is not handsome enough to play Dick.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 17, 2009 - 01:08pm PT
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Looks like Patrick Swayze can't play you anymore, either.
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Blitzo
Social climber
Earth
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Author's Reply
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Apr 17, 2009 - 05:35pm PT
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Floride and I want to come out with you guys tomorrow. We'll be at the Compound in the morning.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Apr 18, 2009 - 09:41am PT
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So Dick, should I book that appt. now or have my people call your people?.
Verrrry funny line by JustTheMaid.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 18, 2009 - 11:09am PT
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Yesterday was a rest day for most of us;
The more fastidious primped
followed by an evening of power food;
Heironymous Jerome, Shanti, Elcapinyoass, Mike
One more day of fun to come, the tech team is determining the agenda
stay tuned.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Apr 18, 2009 - 12:18pm PT
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Hey, I think Russ needs a medic. Look at those hands!
MEDIC!!!!
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Blitzo
Social climber
Earth
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Author's Reply
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Apr 19, 2009 - 12:20pm PT
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Another day. I didn't get very good photos this time.
Photos by Blitzo.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Apr 19, 2009 - 09:28pm PT
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 19, 2009 - 09:35pm PT
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whoa...
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WBraun
climber
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Apr 19, 2009 - 09:37pm PT
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Hey Russ
Can you make me look like that?
I wanna look like that ....
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Apr 19, 2009 - 09:39pm PT
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Blitzo- what wall is that one?
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Blitzo
Social climber
Earth
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Author's Reply
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Apr 19, 2009 - 09:40pm PT
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The Rusty Wall.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA/Joshua Tree
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Apr 19, 2009 - 11:58pm PT
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Billy thanks again for keeping that snake away from my pack.
JTM: Rusty Wall. Wangerbanger (L) and O'Kelley's Crack (R)
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA/Joshua Tree
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Apr 20, 2009 - 02:01am PT
|
Inquisition:
And some good face bouldering. Will walked it.:
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 20, 2009 - 02:17am PT
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Do other people have as much fun as we do?
"Fuzzy straight" -bwahaha!
More photos to follow.
How was the Woody fest?
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Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
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Apr 20, 2009 - 02:43am PT
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Home again.
Found serious scabs on Nurse Ratchet's back.
NOT from Throbbing Gristle... by the location, it was from C-Section.
Narrowest squeeze I've done in years.
For a moment, we were thinking of calling the route "Diet Challenge"
Brutus
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 20, 2009 - 10:15am PT
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If she has scabs, do you still have a back?
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA/Joshua Tree
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Apr 20, 2009 - 10:34am PT
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I got my matching Kingsbury! And a blue one too.
I can only hope mine sculpts as well as yours! :)
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA/Joshua Tree
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Apr 20, 2009 - 10:35am PT
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"Do other people have as much fun as we do?"
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Apr 20, 2009 - 10:40am PT
|
Great shots keep on coming!
Inquisition looks pretty damn burl! Nice!
I laugh every time my name is paired in reference with those headpieces! Too funny!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 20, 2009 - 10:45am PT
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You guys are our inspiration, Tom, a couple of them, anyway.
Alright Beth,multiple kingsburys for multiple occasions!
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Apr 20, 2009 - 10:47am PT
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The inspiration is most definitely mutual then, this is the goods right here!
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA/Joshua Tree
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Apr 20, 2009 - 10:50am PT
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Lest we forget the awesome power of the OW Ninja Pamela, who made the Inquisition look like child's play:
Pamela will be joining us here in Tacoland in the near future.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 20, 2009 - 10:55am PT
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certainly it is a mutual respect, all around...
and the "Kingsbury" well, it's just so cool (or is that hot?)
Jaybro gets to show a little "restraint" when he wears his new one... (he'll tell the story, around a real campfire, if you give him enough beer, like 1).
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Apr 20, 2009 - 10:59am PT
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Well hopefully we can do that campfire sooner than later...it'd be nice to see y'all a bit further north again. I'd also like to make the venture that way as well though...
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Jingy
climber
Random Nobody
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Apr 20, 2009 - 10:59am PT
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Nice work all!!!
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Apr 20, 2009 - 11:56am PT
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Apr 20, 2009 - 12:22pm PT
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How'd she do that?????
WOW!!!! for WIDE!!!!!1111
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Apr 20, 2009 - 12:46pm PT
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What a nice end to the season...great company, copius imbibing, swine, slander dial on 11, and I think we even got some climbing in somewhere along the way.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Apr 20, 2009 - 01:09pm PT
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And someone sent the Inquisition!!!
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Apr 20, 2009 - 01:13pm PT
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Fluoride, glad you added more photos of the send! Sick!
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Mike Friedrichs
Sport climber
City of Salt
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Apr 20, 2009 - 01:30pm PT
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"I drank some beer, did a lot of s**t talking and got 9 feet of climbing in. It was a perfect day!"
Russ Walling
It really was a great week. Thanks to all the great friends for making it so. Special thanks to Russ for putting up with us.
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Joe
Social climber
Santa Cruz
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Apr 20, 2009 - 01:57pm PT
|
good to see you folk hiding from the wind at coral
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 20, 2009 - 02:45pm PT
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Wow Russ, the holy spirit telling it like it is!
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Apr 20, 2009 - 08:13pm PT
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Right back at you, Joe.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Apr 20, 2009 - 08:17pm PT
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Offwidth ratings are like soul.... "If I have to explain it to you, you won't understand"
This man understands it:
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Apr 20, 2009 - 08:21pm PT
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but if we ask to describe a wide route's characteristics it might take all night with proper fuel.
:)
regret not coming down. hope stories will continue to trickle up north. I will bring my Josh bible for reference and choir hymn singing about porcine sending.
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Apr 20, 2009 - 08:23pm PT
|
Hey t*r,
I'm going to try to give you a straight answer on this.
It's going to take some time, but I'll put it right here
later with an edit.
EDIT: t*r, everything after this is the edit
Many of us learned some forms of face climbing first.
Our first experience with jam cracks was like hearing a foreign language. Remember
trying to hang off a hand jam before you knew how? Thin cracks were probably easiest
to relate to the face climbing experience. Hand cracks probably came next, in terms of
relating them to previous experience and being able to come to grips with the ratings.
Chimneys are thrown into the mix fairly early for many folks, and we progress to fist
jams and then off width. The OW cracks require some specialized techniques, but you
learn them, and you learn to climb those cracks, and you start relating them to other
climbs, in terms of ratings.
This is “old school” style of off width, could be 5.8 and up. This one is quite steep. Probably 5.12
This is so steep that “conventional” technique won’t work. The climber has to hang off
foot jams/heel-toe and use stacking combinations with the hands to shuffle the feet and
legs. This kind of climbing is always hard. Nobody is going to claim something like this
is easier than 5.11.
This is just a bit of progression from the last one in terms of weirdness. The pivot into
the part of this climb that is like a squeeze chimney is just another specialized type of
move which must be learned (a certain level of fitness is required for these, obviously).
Again, nobody is going to claim this is easy.
Those posts from Russ and Melissa: there’s a lot of truth in those.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Apr 20, 2009 - 08:25pm PT
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quickly and just for you T*R:
5.7 chimney, easy and usually no pro. climbs like 5.4
5.8+ OW, could be up to 11a
5.9 squeeze, about 11c
10a OW, usually 10a
10c OW, could be up to 12a
10d OW, never harder than 11d
5.11A OW, just techniquie, maybe like 3 moves of 5.8+
5.11+ OW, really only 5.9 fist but usually after a string of 11b rings
5.12 OW, a pure circus move, but the move might be in the 5.17 range
5.13 OW, said to not exist. Probably like many 5.8+ moves in a row.
I would print this out and carry it in your purse just in case it comes up out in the real world.
Hope this helps.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Apr 20, 2009 - 08:33pm PT
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ummm.... sadly t*r, that is a straight answer. I told you that you would not understand.
t*r edit: ok... pull your post..... here is a tissue.....
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Apr 20, 2009 - 08:42pm PT
|
In a way, I think so was Russ.
Here's my go as far as I can...
5.6 or less is prolly 50% face climbable or can be done by direct grovelling in the absence of any wide technique. May still feel really hard.
5.7 is probably a knee chimney or low enough angle that you could stand there for an eternity although upward progress might be grueling and make you bleed. This is the grade where those new to the style might get denied access in spite of a willingness to thrash.
5.8 A squeeze or a 5.7 knee chimney that necks down and makes you wiggle out of it. Foot-backs (one of the biggest, least secure, least protected, but not technically heinous types) seem to get graded 5.8.
5.9 Moments of incredible struggle punctuated with restful situations like knee chimney areas or stances. Often you'll have to climb over a roof or something after struggling up the wide crack, but the roof itself won't be wide. For ow, a lot of your body will probably fit inside of it or it won't be too steep.
5.10 Could be anything. The old dads often did these first and they were great wide crack climbers that only counted to 10 where climbing was concerned. Or it might be easier than a bad old dad 5.9. You never know.
5.11 Either really, really sustained ow or somewhere between the size of your knee and your fist for more than a move.
5.12 (from what I can see) Involves overhangs and roofs.
5.13 Also involves mostly only overhangs and roofs.
One man's 5.9 fist solo is another woman'ss 5.11 ow nightmare. And one gal's can't-quite-fit is another guys butt jam rest.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
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Apr 20, 2009 - 08:49pm PT
|
my observation is that almost all 5.11 OW probs are overhanging...
counter examples?
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
|
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Apr 20, 2009 - 08:51pm PT
|
Big Baby, Big Guy
I haven't seen many 5.11's in Yosemite. I'm sure there's a factoring together of length and steepness in coming up with the actual difficulty, however that may or may not be reflected in the grade.
The Monster ow (only seen in pics) doesn't seem to overhang...hard for sustained nature? Necking problem?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
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Apr 20, 2009 - 08:54pm PT
|
ok I didn't take IC into account on account of never having climbed there...
...gotta rectify that situation
but it is really 5.11 OW or just the Eldo Prancer™™™™™™™™™™ rating?
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WBraun
climber
|
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Apr 20, 2009 - 08:57pm PT
|
Did anyone make it up that throbbing thing?
That thing looks cool ....
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Apr 20, 2009 - 08:58pm PT
|
Endurance is always easier than pure difficulty for me, but I'm too unseasoned at the grade to spray more than theory here.
You guys should find another widey and FA it in honor of Werner's post and call it "That Throbbing Thing".
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MisterE
Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
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Apr 20, 2009 - 09:01pm PT
|
The confidence level of a $2 bet is stunning!
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Apr 20, 2009 - 09:14pm PT
|
Werner,
none of our pathetic crew is making it up that Throbbing thing.
It's really cool, all right.
It can be climbed as a lieback, obviously, and I'm sure it's
been done that way, no idea how many people have done it. Most
likely the FA was done as lieback (Alan Nelson).
As an armbar problem, I think it's fantastic. The problem is that I'm about 30 years behind, in terms of accomplishment.
Dale would have walked it in the old days.
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WBraun
climber
|
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Apr 20, 2009 - 09:18pm PT
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Thanks scuffy
This is one of the better threads in along time. It started out with a bunch of clean rugby shirts standing around but then got into the low down and dirty business fast.
Bravo guys and gals ....
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
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Apr 20, 2009 - 09:24pm PT
|
I'm sure I'm over generalizing a few observations...
I haven't been on that many 5.11 OW myself and I'm not changing my license plate anytime soon...
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 20, 2009 - 09:46pm PT
|
Pamela didn't have her car there, so we have never seen her lic plate rebus...
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
|
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Apr 20, 2009 - 09:49pm PT
|
In a side news flash...
These guys got me scheming for large gear. The ex has a 4.5 camalot. I asked to "borrow" it. He foolishly handed it over. He owes me lots of money. There's no way in hell he's getting it back.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 20, 2009 - 10:08pm PT
|
'Always climb the Wide with Pride™' Skip!
This thread has taken some interesting turns, though I'm not sure what beans I am supposed to spell into my Kingsbury after a beer...I've got a few more photos to thaw out.
Good to meet you too, Joe, also great to run into Larry Scritchfield (after all these years) at the same venue. Hi, again Larry, if you're out there.
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Larry
Trad climber
Bisbee
|
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Apr 21, 2009 - 07:55pm PT
|
It was great to run into old Wyoming friends - Jay, Mike and Steve - and meet new people as well. Don and I were having a little wide fest of our own. We didn't know about yours.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 21, 2009 - 09:11pm PT
|
Synchronicity...
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Blitzo
Social climber
Earth
|
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Author's Reply
|
Apr 21, 2009 - 10:07pm PT
|
I miss you guys! Come back soon.
Nice shots Beth. You got the ones of Pam, cool!
She's BAD ASS and nice too! What an odd combo.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
|
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Apr 21, 2009 - 10:13pm PT
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Bluto.... I have a tissue and shovel with your name on it over here at the compound.
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dickcilley
Social climber
Wisteria Ln.
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Apr 22, 2009 - 09:29am PT
|
Talk to me Maid.My people are kind of out of it.Count on Werner and I at The Turkey in the Wide.I´ll drug him . Tie him up and drive him down there.Jay Bro.....Whats happenin with the Grisle?We´ll be seeing you on the back side of Half dome this Fall.That Basketcase is also begging for a visit.Who´s visiting me in Wa. at the end of May,beginning of June?Kevin ,Lets see some pics of that SD.stuff.I´ll be down there to warm up for the Grisle.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
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Apr 22, 2009 - 02:48pm PT
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astute observation Blute.
I wish I was still there instead of back in the grind, here
Poor Blitzo, left all alone in the sand.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 22, 2009 - 04:36pm PT
|
Until next year, a last few images
Yorkbethwill
Our climb for Woody, The Flake, York on top, 'touni in the middle, Scuffy was coming up below but I couldn't get them all three in the shot
Mike F onsighting Wangerbanger, a walk in the park for him, Fluoride belaying
Shanti, the modern legend, chilling after the Inquisition, looks on
Beth takes a turn
I wasn't going to let these kids have all the fun
plan to be there next year, or else
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Zander
climber
|
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Apr 23, 2009 - 12:13am PT
|
Whoa, Nat, I surrender!
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HJ
climber
Bozeman, Montana
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|
Apr 23, 2009 - 07:06pm PT
|
Thanks for the fun times. It was a riot meeting you all. Pamela and I are back in Montana, wallowing in a few inches of new snow and dreaming of heat exhaustion.
cheers
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
|
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|
Apr 23, 2009 - 07:11pm PT
|
Cool deal.... I think that is the last of the "festers" now back home safe.
Man.... that gig was some kinda fun!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 23, 2009 - 07:49pm PT
|
Yeah, that was a kickass time!!!111
I think that we are getting better at setting up conditions to incite this sort of event.
HB, great to meet you, and see you turn up in this backwash of the cyber world!
I was almost disapponted when Beth asked you, directly,what HJ, stood for, it was fun to speculate,you could still be Hieronomous Jerome, to us, unless, as an artist, you would rather be Heironymos Johns, or something. How did those panoramic shots turn out?
In any case, welcome to the gang!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
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Apr 23, 2009 - 07:50pm PT
|
great times, again!
thanks to Russ and Sooze for the hospitality and tolerance with the compound being overrun...
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Apr 23, 2009 - 08:17pm PT
|
I haven't recovered yet..
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Shanti
Trad climber
The Dragon's Liar
|
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Apr 23, 2009 - 08:24pm PT
|
Thanks to all of the Widefetish crew for a really ridiculously entertaining week in J Tree. It was awesome to finally meet you all and after a few evenings of stories from Russ my abs hurt more than after the Inquisition. I'm feeling like it's time for me to get one of those Kingsbury leopard "hats" (neck warmer, tube-top, mini-skirt?)-- sweeeeeeet -- Jaybro looks so stylish in his!
PS I wanna license plate that just says "meOW" but for now I just have a sticker...Russ I hope your "ruptured aorta/ rubber bullet wound" has healed up nicely!
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HJ
climber
Bozeman, Montana
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Apr 23, 2009 - 09:32pm PT
|
I was thinking Hieronymus Josch might be temporarily appropriate, but I couldn't figure out how to change my name without opening a whole new account, and I'm essentially lazy, seeing as I masquerade as a climber. I'll be getting into the darkroom tomorrow to develop film. I'll post up something at some point. We're at six inches of snow in my yard and counting. I guess our snow accumulation counts as "wide" at this point.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
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Apr 23, 2009 - 09:53pm PT
|
"Hieronymus Josch", hmmm.
if only I had the photoshop skills to do that one justice.
Yeah, i wanna see what comes out of that panorama camerama feel free to post up. It occurred to me today that with one of those, I could have captured the Spyork-Ed-Scuffy conga line on The Flake, last week.
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
|
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|
Apr 23, 2009 - 11:45pm PT
|
COOL!
Fabulous Furry Freak Brothers on the wide!!!
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spyork
Trad climber
Tunneling out of prison
|
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Apr 23, 2009 - 11:46pm PT
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Pictures from Wide fest. Video will come laterz. Im busy with work and kids and wife driving me crazy...
Some photos by Flouride
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Apr 24, 2009 - 12:16am PT
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Nice unleash of pics!!!!!!!111666
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 24, 2009 - 09:18am PT
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Shanti, Yow, the gang's all here.
Nice stuff Spyork, someone finally sort of, captured the muppet's hair!
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spyork
Trad climber
Tunneling out of prison
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Apr 24, 2009 - 12:49pm PT
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I lost some good pics, camera setting got bumped in the case and some pics were over exposed, all washed out. Oh, well...
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Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
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Apr 24, 2009 - 01:27pm PT
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"5.7 chimney, easy and usually no pro. climbs like 5.4
5.8+ OW, could be up to 11a
5.9 squeeze, about 11c
10a OW, usually 10a
10c OW, could be up to 12a
10d OW, never harder than 11d
5.11A OW, just techniquie, maybe like 3 moves of 5.8+
5.11+ OW, really only 5.9 fist but usually after a string of 11b rings
5.12 OW, a pure circus move, but the move might be in the 5.17 range
5.13 OW, said to not exist. Probably like many 5.8+ moves in a row."
Truer words were never typed.
Quit it Russ, you're getting coffee all over my computer screen!
Brutus
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Apr 24, 2009 - 03:03pm PT
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"my observation is that almost all 5.11 OW probs are overhanging...
counter examples?"
I don't remember Hypertension overhanging much. But a grim size if you got fat knees.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Apr 24, 2009 - 11:00pm PT
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Jaybro
Youse guys shudda taken that stove pipe and cut it up
into chock size chunks. What pro--REALLY BIG BROS!!!!!11111
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Apr 24, 2009 - 11:34pm PT
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"Dale would have walked it in the old days. "
Scuffy--I'm going to go out on a limb and say that Skeletor could probably walk it THESE days so long as his shoulder is back in place. Dale's still mighty strong!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 25, 2009 - 12:02pm PT
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Word around the campfire is that someone ( I will leave you to guess her identidy) attempeted an onsight lead of the Gristle, and almost nailed it, taking one, 'biscuit', as the britts used to say.
Action photos I forgot to post from the gristle approach;
#6 Friend for scale, He is one large, bull tortuga! Tortuga Grande?
An artist contemplating suchness, Freddy and the Beak, considering a new line.
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Shanti
Trad climber
The Dragon's Liar
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Apr 25, 2009 - 01:55pm PT
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Ya know I think Will may have been onto something when he decided to lieback the Gristle judging by the blood all over the right shoulder of my shirt (and everyone else in the compound, eh?) Next time -- lots more motrin, injectable Lidocaine, more tape and Red Bull!!! MAD FOR IT!!!!!!!!
PS Jaybro those turtle shots are some sick action photos!!!!!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 25, 2009 - 03:28pm PT
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You need to see the movie! The suspense never stops.
Lidocaine in a spike, so that's the true "mild injectible™"
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 25, 2009 - 03:50pm PT
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and, while I am still here,
This young lady mentioned, last week, that she worked for TV news in LA. I asked her, when could we tune in to see her on the tube,
she said,"I'm behind the scenes, not purdy enough to be in front of the camera."
now in how many ways is she wrong about that?
I'm feeble, these days, but I can count on one hand all the people I've met in the last half century, with a smile like that!
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Shanti
Trad climber
The Dragon's Liar
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Apr 25, 2009 - 04:49pm PT
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OK does the name "Flouride" have anything to do with the great smile?! A joy to meet you Flouride -- more brandy in those "Foo Foos"!!!! ~Shanti
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The Larry
climber
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Apr 25, 2009 - 06:09pm PT
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OMG Moab Beth
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 25, 2009 - 06:20pm PT
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Okay, move along, I'm sure we've embarrassed her, enough...
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Fletcher
Boulder climber
Institute of Better Bouldering-DirtbagDad Division
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Apr 25, 2009 - 06:27pm PT
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I finally got around to reading this thread today (procrastinating doing more mundane things). HIghly enjoyable, though I have to say, now that I've gone through it in one push I feel scared, fat and wimpy... and I'm relative youngster compared to some of these peoples.
Eric
P.S. But then again, wranglin' a three year old in terrorist mode, a five year old and anticipating another one arriving sometime next week may be somewhat on par with the strenuosity of OW. LOL
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 25, 2009 - 06:47pm PT
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"scared, fat and wimpy" check, you're in the club, don't worry.
Don't worry about about being too young, them babies gonna age ya, though you prolly already know that. My sister in law is expecting next week, (they will induce on May day if needed) her parents, who don't speak english, are here for three months to 'help'. Little bro is five years younger than myself and he has clearly aged years past me, in the last week, alone!
Hang on and good luck! Gotta say there is an upside to having my daughter be an adult.
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Fletcher
Boulder climber
Institute of Better Bouldering-DirtbagDad Division
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Apr 25, 2009 - 06:55pm PT
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Hang on and good luck! Gotta say there is an upside to having my daughter be an adult.
Thanks for the encouragement... there's hope for me yet... and I already own a rugby shirt! I've always felt a strange affinity for the wide... the abyss is pulling me in, deeper, deeper...
I do have a twenty year old too... so I appreciate it when they dress and feed themselves and sleep all day... and you can share your appreciation for things like the Colbert Report!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 25, 2009 - 07:02pm PT
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Too funny!
Nat is a Colbert fan, as well! We laugh through it together, all the time... cheers!
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Shanti
Trad climber
The Dragon's Liar
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Apr 25, 2009 - 11:37pm PT
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Beer or Big Bro? What do YOU need to climb offwidths?! HJ displaying the new skills he has acquired over the week in Joshua Tree.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 25, 2009 - 11:59pm PT
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Hieronymus Josch, with Beer 'n' 'bro! One of those has gotten me up way more climbs than the other. I got one of those cool shirts last week, too.
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HJ
climber
Bozeman, Montana
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Apr 26, 2009 - 12:07am PT
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Here is an image from my funny camera of Beth, Jay, Billy and Will hanging out.
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BooYah
Social climber
Ely, Nv
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Apr 26, 2009 - 12:30am PT
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Fishlite is delicious.
Mmmmmmmmmm.
Aldude, begone.
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Oxymoron
Big Wall climber
total Disarray
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Apr 26, 2009 - 12:43am PT
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Floride is HOT!
Meow.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 26, 2009 - 01:06am PT
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Cool stuff!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 21, 2009 - 08:12pm PT
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Slobett, would you check the temps at the Inquisition? Say about 1.5 hrs after it goes in the shade, no particular reason...
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Sep 21, 2009 - 08:13pm PT
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Hey Russ, you gonna be around the Park during Thanksgiving?
I may need a wide-guide. Although, that's prolly when you avoid the Park.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Sep 21, 2009 - 08:17pm PT
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During Thanksgiving we usually have a very secret gay free masons type event, complete with stacks of old guys and plenty of neosporin and DMSO. It is a wide sausage fest of the highest order. This year will probably be no different, although it will be strict in the RSVP aspect and ID's will be checked at the compound entrance.
So, I guess I will be around, but I will not be around..... does that make any sense?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 21, 2009 - 08:19pm PT
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DMSO!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Sep 21, 2009 - 08:23pm PT
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Roger that, Mussy. I'll look you up, being constantly referred to as a closet Repub-homo, I may fit in!
On a side note I went to the Santa Clara Art/Wine (beer) festival and had my son ID registered/fingerprinted by....The Santa Clara chapter of the Masons!!!!
kick ass!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Sep 21, 2009 - 08:35pm PT
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^^^^^
hahahahahaha..... yep.... just like that!
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Ray-J
Social climber
socal
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Sep 21, 2009 - 08:36pm PT
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Modern Warfare and Throbbing Gristle...
Alan Nelson and I were climbing together a bit.
Me trying to keep up with him.
After we both sent Braindeath first try,
He suggested these two wide cracks he knew of.
He had the wide gear, too.
Alan was a gentleman, and gave me the FA lead of Modern Warfare.
He did the Throbbing Gristle, and accepted my name suggestions
For both.
Alan was a swell guy, supermotivated.
I miss him.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Sep 21, 2009 - 08:38pm PT
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Ray, if you were there for the FA of Throbbing Gristle, spill some details:
lead or TR?
Layback or pure OW?
Boxers or briefs?
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Ray-J
Social climber
socal
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Sep 21, 2009 - 08:45pm PT
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Russ, a good question.
I think he top roped it.
I remember alan at work up
There, but am not sure - except
That I did not lead that thing!
Pretty sure it was all out for me
As a TR, no way on the sharp end.
The gear alan had was perfecto
For modern warfare tho...
God, we were all so young and fit back then...
Pretty sure alan laybacked the upper part
Of TG, Russ.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 21, 2009 - 08:54pm PT
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Guess we'll never know....
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Sep 21, 2009 - 08:59pm PT
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After we went all CSI on the TG, here is what the greatest OW minds of the day figured:
Top rope (lead is problematic with the pro in the way etc)
Most likely laybacked (esp on TR. Straight in is unholy hard. Layback is feasible, and I've seen Alan layback... he had it going on. I've seen him OW stuff too, and he was no slouch on that either, but layback on this one seems more likely)
Briefs (don't ask how I know this)
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Ray-J
Social climber
socal
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Sep 21, 2009 - 09:01pm PT
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it may have been 25 years ago.
Pretty safe to say TG was put up as a top rope.
And yes, pretty sure there were moves "ouside"
The crack - I pretty much remember alan
Gassing it where the thing gets sorta offset,
Up high.
I could not find those cracks now for the
Life of me - ha, no clue where we hiked to.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Sep 21, 2009 - 09:06pm PT
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F*ck... in the vicinity... still no shirt. Denied.
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Ray-J
Social climber
socal
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Sep 21, 2009 - 09:10pm PT
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The cool thing about climbing with alan
Was that he really wanted his partners to
Have success, but was keenly competetive too.
Really fun guy to climb with.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Sep 21, 2009 - 09:10pm PT
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Next time Steel... until then, no shirt ain't that bad.....
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Ray-J
Social climber
socal
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Sep 21, 2009 - 09:49pm PT
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I remember thinking, as we hiked back
from where ever the hell we were that
probably no one would ever go out there
to do those cracks again...that's the way it seemed.
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Ray-J
Social climber
socal
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Sep 21, 2009 - 10:01pm PT
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Cool about the popularity of "wide".
Russ, yes, my current handle is in flux
And will probably morph into "frog"
Once I get officially set up in my place
This winter.
Good luck with everything Russ!
The climbing gear world would kinda
Suck without you.
Safe climbing...
Ray
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Sep 21, 2009 - 10:04pm PT
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All my best designs are ones I stole from you anyway.....
Wide is back in a big way. Everyone, chicks included, want to obtain the giant shank of the stock offwidth climber. It's evolution!
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Ray-J
Social climber
socal
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Sep 21, 2009 - 10:12pm PT
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Shank??
Hahahaa!
Well, truth is, w/ out you and pottenger
The whole thing woulda been way boring.
The gear I wanna work on this winter
Doesn't compete with anything you
Or anyone else currently makes but,
I hope to finally get it together and get
Some sewing machines and build some things.
In truth, gear design is all about evolution
Anyway - I copied Bill Forrest...
Take care Fish, you are irreplaceable.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 21, 2009 - 11:52pm PT
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RyanD
climber
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Jun 14, 2014 - 12:18am PT
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Too much fun! All time TR.
WBraun
climber
Apr 20, 2009 - 09:18pm PT
This is one of the better threads in along time. It started out with a bunch of clean rugby shirts standing around but then got into the low down and dirty business fast.
Bravo guys and gals ....
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Now That, was a good time! Thanks for being there and setting us up with this Tr Blitzo!
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