Trip Report
West Face of The Golden Toad at The Balls
Tuesday August 3, 2010 10:40pm
photo not found
Missing photo ID#165641
"The Balls."
I'm an adult but I still chuckle a bit when I say it. You can take the boy out of sixth grade, but you can't always take sixth grade out of the boy, I suppose.
The Balls is about 45minutes outta Oakhurst. Big dreamy domes, short approaches, golden granite and no crowds. With Shuteye just around the corner a dude could climb a lifetime here and never tire. That's exactly what I plan to do. I'm pretty much a weekend hack, but I've been doing it for twenty years now so I kinda know my way around the Western Sierra. I got a wife and four kids, so our missions tend to take on a bit of an "alpine" character. Bottom line is, I always try to get home for breakfast. With 1:45 minute drive each way, I gotta have motivated partners and two alarm clocks.

This weekend I left the still camera at home. I took my camcorder and my i-phone and shot us on a formation called The Golden Toad. A cool formation with a 15minute uphill approach and a smashing view of the Minarets 30 miles from the summit. Enjoy.
http://vimeo.com/13816624

  Trip Report Views: 2,834
micronut
About the Author
micronut is a trad climber from fresno, ca.

Comments
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
  Aug 3, 2010 - 10:27pm PT
A new take on a TR, I like-a!!!!! I like the video from the car. Did you just leave it and let it roll? Pretty cool idea. Adds insights into the belays and gear placements.

Look like a cool line too!

"Manpri's???" "Dude you're wearing a bandana????"

Classic!
Nate D

climber
San Francisco
  Aug 4, 2010 - 02:17am PT
Yes, very cool to include the video from a distance, although having been there, I know it's not from the car, but on the rocks across from the W. face. Would have been funny if a Marmot, or better yet, a Golden Toad, peeked into the lens of the abandoned camera.
Captain...or Skully

climber
Boise, ID
  Aug 4, 2010 - 09:28am PT
Pretty cool, MicroNut.
Love it.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Aug 4, 2010 - 10:16am PT
Good job!

Keep it up, and keep 'em coming!
Slater

Trad climber
Central Coast
  Aug 7, 2010 - 11:11pm PT
Bravo! My kinda climber! I often drive 10 hrs round trip in a day (leaving the coast at 4am) to climb a few or FA a couple on a new block! Fresh... I loved it. Well done Scott! I'm gonna link this over on Southern Yos thread if ya don't mind.

Your coffee maker is way nicer than mine.
Gene

climber
  Aug 8, 2010 - 12:01am PT
Very nice.
L

climber
Just livin' the dream
  Apr 1, 2015 - 11:22am PT
Hilarious!
I'm totally in awe of your creative powers of expression, Scott.
First your superbly written TRs.
Then your fab videos with awesome music.
Now: You and your partner speed-climbing that diagonal crack.
Inconceivable!

:-)
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
  Apr 1, 2015 - 11:25am PT
TRY as I may THESE GREAT SHARES intimidate me. Mine take hours and end up in the trash!
This and all of your excellent work is inspiring too!
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Apr 1, 2015 - 12:36pm PT
As always, outstanding, hilarious, and makes me wish I were there. Tim Schiller and I climbed the route now known as "Eye of the Needle" in 1973 (prior to the recorded first ascent) and couldn't believe the horns and chickenheads up higher. I love climbing in the Balls, but for some reason, I've never done anything on the Golden Toad since.

John
Charlie D.

Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
  Apr 1, 2015 - 01:54pm PT
Ha!!! That was great, missed it sometime back....thanks for making my afternoon. Love the banter with your partner, climbers have so much fun eh?
lars johansen

Trad climber
West Marin, CA
  Apr 1, 2015 - 03:55pm PT
Lovin" the Toad, Nut. Glad to see the bump as I missed this the 1st time. Spent a lot of time up there over the years and took my kids climbing there frequently. BTW, I'm all about the knickers.-lars
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Apr 1, 2015 - 04:16pm PT
Nice micronut. Looks like so much to do around there. Like the time lapse. The only way to watch climbing or otherwise too boring.
kaholatingtong

Trad climber
The fake McCoy from nevernever land.
  Apr 1, 2015 - 04:31pm PT
Missed this before. Yet another Micronut gem.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
  Apr 1, 2015 - 04:32pm PT
What, no Daisy Dukes for this pair of hardmen?

Thanks for not wearing them, Scott.

They'd only show off your junk.

Yet another prize from Micronut. Can I have your autograph?
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Apr 1, 2015 - 06:40pm PT
Nice man pris Scott,
A great tr, thanks!
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