Trip Report
West Face of The Golden Toad at The Balls
Tuesday August 3, 2010 10:40pm
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Missing photo ID#165641 "The Balls."
I'm an adult but I still chuckle a bit when I say it. You can take the boy out of sixth grade, but you can't always take sixth grade out of the boy, I suppose.
The Balls is about 45minutes outta Oakhurst. Big dreamy domes, short approaches, golden granite and no crowds. With Shuteye just around the corner a dude could climb a lifetime here and never tire. That's exactly what I plan to do. I'm pretty much a weekend hack, but I've been doing it for twenty years now so I kinda know my way around the Western Sierra. I got a wife and four kids, so our missions tend to take on a bit of an "alpine" character. Bottom line is, I always try to get home for breakfast. With 1:45 minute drive each way, I gotta have motivated partners and two alarm clocks.
This weekend I left the still camera at home. I took my camcorder and my i-phone and shot us on a formation called The Golden Toad. A cool formation with a 15minute uphill approach and a smashing view of the Minarets 30 miles from the summit. Enjoy.
http://vimeo.com/13816624
micronut
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About the Author micronut is a trad climber from fresno, ca. |
Comments
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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A new take on a TR, I like-a!!!!! I like the video from the car. Did you just leave it and let it roll? Pretty cool idea. Adds insights into the belays and gear placements.
Look like a cool line too!
"Manpri's???" "Dude you're wearing a bandana????"
Classic!
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Yes, very cool to include the video from a distance, although having been there, I know it's not from the car, but on the rocks across from the W. face. Would have been funny if a Marmot, or better yet, a Golden Toad, peeked into the lens of the abandoned camera.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Good job!
Keep it up, and keep 'em coming!
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Bravo! My kinda climber! I often drive 10 hrs round trip in a day (leaving the coast at 4am) to climb a few or FA a couple on a new block! Fresh... I loved it. Well done Scott! I'm gonna link this over on Southern Yos thread if ya don't mind.
Your coffee maker is way nicer than mine.
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Gene
climber
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Very nice.
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L
climber
Just livin' the dream
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Hilarious!
I'm totally in awe of your creative powers of expression, Scott.
First your superbly written TRs.
Then your fab videos with awesome music.
Now: You and your partner speed-climbing that diagonal crack.
Inconceivable!
:-)
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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TRY as I may THESE GREAT SHARES intimidate me. Mine take hours and end up in the trash!
This and all of your excellent work is inspiring too!
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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As always, outstanding, hilarious, and makes me wish I were there. Tim Schiller and I climbed the route now known as "Eye of the Needle" in 1973 (prior to the recorded first ascent) and couldn't believe the horns and chickenheads up higher. I love climbing in the Balls, but for some reason, I've never done anything on the Golden Toad since.
John
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Ha!!! That was great, missed it sometime back....thanks for making my afternoon. Love the banter with your partner, climbers have so much fun eh?
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lars johansen
Trad climber
West Marin, CA
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Lovin" the Toad, Nut. Glad to see the bump as I missed this the 1st time. Spent a lot of time up there over the years and took my kids climbing there frequently. BTW, I'm all about the knickers.-lars
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Nice micronut. Looks like so much to do around there. Like the time lapse. The only way to watch climbing or otherwise too boring.
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kaholatingtong
Trad climber
The fake McCoy from nevernever land.
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Missed this before. Yet another Micronut gem.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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What, no Daisy Dukes for this pair of hardmen?
Thanks for not wearing them, Scott.
They'd only show off your junk.
Yet another prize from Micronut. Can I have your autograph?
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Nice man pris Scott,
A great tr, thanks!
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