Trip Report
Walleye... tell me a story (Nabisco Wall, Dave Shultz)
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Sunday October 4, 2009 10:37pm
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 Missing photo ID#129924
What was the deal with Schultz jumping into your aiders on the Nabisco Wall solo...?
Russ Walling
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About the Author
Russ Walling is a gym climber from Poofter's Froth, Wyoming. |
Comments
rlf
Trad climber
Josh, CA
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Apr 13, 2007 - 10:21pm PT
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Uh oh... Sounds like another episode of As The Cam Turns....
Russ calls walleye out onto the carpet. Will Walleye respond? Is Ouch pregnant? Who's the father? Is it Anna Nichole Smith?
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WBraun
climber
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Apr 13, 2007 - 10:26pm PT
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Hee hee hee
I remember that episode. Shultz does the butterballs placing only one piece and tells me he's ready to free solo the thing.
Ha I told the monkey he still has the rack on and it's not the same. The iron monkey doesn't believe me.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Apr 13, 2007 - 10:31pm PT
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so what happened?
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WBraun
climber
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Apr 13, 2007 - 10:37pm PT
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Read the first post.
I saw Walleye when I was coming back from climbing in his truck going the opposite way earlier today.
Maybe he went to L's to get boot licked and whipped?
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Apr 13, 2007 - 10:41pm PT
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neat story
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Author's Reply
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Apr 13, 2007 - 10:48pm PT
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kick asssssssssssss!™™™™™™™ This story is why Gore invented the internet. Good one WallEye!
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susan peplow
climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Apr 13, 2007 - 10:48pm PT
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Some would call that hitting the "slow button" followed by "snail eye".
Now Russell, now that you've heard your story, get back to work. We blast for vacation tomorrow!!!
~Susan
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 13, 2007 - 11:23pm PT
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Fuching Top Notch!
Outstanding.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Apr 13, 2007 - 11:50pm PT
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Sweet tale, that I am sure Dave would rather we all forgot.
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K. Fosburg
Sport climber
park city, ut
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Apr 13, 2007 - 11:54pm PT
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Snail-Eye indeed, indeed!
Schultz soloed the Rostrum and a bunch of other hard shiite. Did the Nose and Salathe in a day. Those must be on Susan Peplow's list.
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susan peplow
climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Apr 14, 2007 - 12:16am PT
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Hey Kevin, not on my list no way!! And for the record, my snail-eye starts at .6 solos.
Good on him and anyone else who's goes for it yet wise enough to know their limits.
~Susan
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Anastasia
climber
Home
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Apr 14, 2007 - 01:12am PT
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Now that is a great story and very well written.
Gosh, I also know a shoe salesman and a Canadian that climb.
Must be a few hanging around this corner.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 14, 2007 - 01:16am PT
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great story, thanks all for the effort!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 14, 2007 - 12:35pm PT
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Great post! Freesoloing is definitely not horseshoes or hand grenades. Close doesn't cut it! Better to have friends nearby just in case. Glad we can all laugh about it now.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 14, 2007 - 12:53pm PT
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Cosgrove tells me Shultz is now living in LA, doing very well for himself in some sort of Hollywood rigging support capacity; had some idea, started a company, now engaged in a lucrative partnership, driving a shiny new big arse truck, and enjoying himself.
The Iron Monkey a few years prior to Walleye's story:
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
@dodrillphoto
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Apr 14, 2007 - 04:38pm PT
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Great Story! Thanks for sharing! I wonder if that was the first time a photographer saved the subject's ass. Maybe if you weren't there on a big fat cord he would have finished it -no other options except jump.
Are Dave and Holly still together? Did some climbing with her in the '90s and just about got in a big ass bar fight up at Diamond Jims (Sonora Pass) one night because of Holly, her friend, and one big redneck who, like others, had intentions on them. That was quite interesting. I might as well have been soloing butterballs. He was a big f*#ker. Don't know where Dave was. Down on chemo I think.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Apr 14, 2007 - 04:42pm PT
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that rigging thing he's got going looks impressive
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
@dodrillphoto
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Apr 14, 2007 - 04:56pm PT
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Cool stuff!
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Apr 14, 2007 - 05:08pm PT
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Another photo of the Iron Monkey trying to get comfortable enough to drill.
Ken
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Apr 14, 2007 - 06:13pm PT
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Thanks for the story and the awesome photos Walter. Here is one of Dave Walking the Plank. Not the quality of your images.
Ken
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Apr 14, 2007 - 06:43pm PT
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I wish someone would. I will never go back either.
Ken
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
@dodrillphoto
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Apr 14, 2007 - 06:45pm PT
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When was that? Think the bolts are any good still?
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Apr 14, 2007 - 06:54pm PT
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Jerry, good question. Only one way to find out. They are 1/4" and were placed in 1986.
Ken
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
@dodrillphoto
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Apr 14, 2007 - 07:17pm PT
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Placed under duress no less. I'm sure they are bomber. I mean, twenty one years isn't that long.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Apr 14, 2007 - 07:41pm PT
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More food for thought. The bolts are a hodgepodge of taperlocks, buttonheads, screwtops, and threaded machine bolts. We were financially challenged at the time and used whatever we could scrounge up. On the bright side, there were a few natural placements. The rock is the hardest to drill in that I have encountered in Yosemite.
Ken
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
@dodrillphoto
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Apr 14, 2007 - 08:05pm PT
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Great. That makes me feel better. As soon as this rib heals up I'll think about the second. LOL!
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Apr 14, 2007 - 08:35pm PT
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That is what I am going to do too. Just think about doing the second. This one shows the angle better.
Ken
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chappy
Social climber
oakhurst
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Apr 14, 2007 - 11:54pm PT
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Great story Walleye...can't believe I hadn't heard that one before. I was hanging around on the Nabisco Wall in a similar fashion when said shoe salesman soloed the route. The shoe salesman was quite a climber as well. Knocked off the Wafer first. Than sat on Monkey Island staring out at the river for a while--getting psyched I imagine. Then he fired the thing. Looked solid. One minor hitch in his getty up at the crux of Butterfingers--the one place on the route where you don't have your fingers into anything. You're just out there! Pretty impressive. I was wondering what to do if he fell...keep shooting pictures? Fortunately, I didn't have to make that decision. Maybe the shoesalesman will post a photo...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 15, 2007 - 12:10pm PT
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Mark,
Shortly after that Nabisco Wall solo, a few of us gathered up over at the Ahwahnee and you presented a short slide show on the event; pretty darned impressive feat and nice coverage of it as well.
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Mimi
climber
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Apr 15, 2007 - 01:17pm PT
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Really glad to hear Dave and Holly are doing well. Last saw Dave at Walt's memorial and I couldn't believe the size of that big truck he was motoring around in. Cracked me up.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Apr 15, 2007 - 01:23pm PT
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Majorly cool action Walleye - wow.
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Apr 15, 2007 - 01:34pm PT
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Gripping tales to be sure!! Palms sweatin' all the way!
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Apr 17, 2007 - 09:23pm PT
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Is this when Dave jumped into your aiders?
Ken
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Apr 18, 2007 - 12:16pm PT
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Brothers from different mothers? You be the judge.
David Bowie/Aladdin Sane:Iron Monkey:
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Apr 18, 2007 - 12:52pm PT
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That's the most entertaining story we've had here in a while.
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Mimi
climber
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Apr 23, 2007 - 10:03pm PT
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Yeah, funky brother!
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James
climber
My twin brother's laundry room
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Apr 23, 2007 - 10:32pm PT
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classic story
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bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Cool thread Walleye - I never knew that story about the Iron Monkey's attempt. What a hard core mutherfunker...
Shoe salesman on B-Balls. Photo: Mark Chapman
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SammyLee2
Trad climber
Memphis, TN
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I just love these stories and pictures. Even when it displays so dramatically my own limits and weakness. It's one thing to have skill like so many humans do. It's a whole nother thing to risk you life on that skill. To somehow KNOW you can do it and that you WILL do it or life ends. Confidence to the max.
I'll never do any of that but many possibilities to "step up", are still there. Perhaps one day, I'll get Karl or somebody to let me jug up their rope on a big wall.
Just curious, could two 5.8 to 5.9 climbers and a rope gun get up a big wall, maybe like Washington Column? (I know, for many of you, it's not)
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Author's Reply
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Feb 6, 2008 - 09:28pm PT
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sammylee2 writes: Just curious, could two 5.8 to 5.9 climbers and a rope gun get up a big wall, maybe like Washington Column?
They do it every year, without a rope gun. When are you going?
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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check out that pic of Bachar!
that's the single greatest rockclimbing pic in the world -
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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What a great story. Buggs has one about Dave going past him on the East Buttress of Middle or something. Thanks for the Tale!
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Prod
Trad climber
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To think I was expecting something like this....
48 hours quote...
"Jack, tell me a story."
"F*#k You!"
"Oh thats one of my favorites."
Great thread.
Prod.
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K. Fosburg
Sport climber
park city, ut
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Gosh, what an "interesting thread". That Schultzy sounds real crazy. I wonder if there's anything else could be said about him?
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MisterE
Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
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Thanks for the bum, K.
Love the call out by Russ-In-Peace
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Jingy
climber
Random Nobody
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Feb 25, 2009 - 09:19pm PT
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What's with the sudden bout of blatant self promotion?
Bump
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Fish Finder
climber
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Feb 25, 2009 - 09:26pm PT
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Hey Jingy
Back Off
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Author's Reply
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Feb 25, 2009 - 10:29pm PT
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It's a "favorite TR" bump day Jingy..... those were of course my favorites.
C'mon, give us a treat.... write a TR about your masturbation routine in the cubicle. Omit nothing.
oh... did this just bump it?
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Feb 25, 2009 - 10:31pm PT
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I'm with Brooke- I blacked out the pink stripes on my Lasers too.
But nowadays, pink's the new black.
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wbw
Trad climber
'cross the great divide
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Apr 21, 2009 - 05:06pm PT
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Hey, didn't an unnamed Brit who lived and died by the sword, also free-solo the Nabisco Wall??
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Apr 21, 2009 - 06:12pm PT
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Not sure what unnamed Brit your thinking of but the one I can recall sprayed a bunch about soloing a lowly 11c--AstroMan--then hung on Outer Limits...all before giving the fruit of Ozzie's loins a tour in the Alps and up the Captain. But that's probably not who you were thinking of.
More about the 'awesome back of Schultz' please.
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matty
Trad climber
Sad the forum is gone =(
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Dec 23, 2010 - 02:00pm PT
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Just revisited this great story. BUMP for those who have not seen it...now to go dry off my palms.
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couchmaster
climber
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Dec 24, 2010 - 01:09am PT
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Me too, great stuff!
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Dirka
Trad climber
Hustle City
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Dec 26, 2010 - 01:09pm PT
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Great tale, killer thread!
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Buju
Big Wall climber
the range of light
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Dec 26, 2010 - 04:05pm PT
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Great story!
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squatch
Boulder climber
santa cruz, CA
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Dec 26, 2010 - 11:18pm PT
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RAD!!
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Dec 26, 2010 - 11:54pm PT
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Wow! exhilarating history with a grand combination of humor and bravado.
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Dec 27, 2010 - 08:07pm PT
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He saved my ass one day. But the story will follow me to the grave.
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