Trip Report
Turkey! Ancient Ruins and Sport Climbing
Sunday January 13, 2013 7:54pm
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December was here and we wanted to go somewhere new. One of my regular climbing partners grew up in Istanbul. She had always told me about how amazing the climbing was in her home country. Robin (my girlfriend) and I have been living on opposite coasts while we finish up our respective educations. We thought: lets me up in TURKEY! It turned out that my flight there from Chapel Hill, NC was only a few hundred dollars more than a flight to California!!! So we pulled the trigger and went.
Our trip was to be as follows: 3 days in Istanbul, 6 days in Geyikbayiri, 6 days in Olympos. Geyikbayiri is located in the hills above the southern city of Antalya. Olympos is located on the coast ~100 km south of Geyikbayiri.
I will let the pictures so most of the talking, but I must say, it was a fantastic trip. We met many interesting people, ate fantastic food, and checked out some fascinating ruins. Turkey has been the crossroads of civilizations for 3,500 years and ruins are EVERYWHERE.
I had a little more time for the trip then Robin, so I flew in a couple of days ahead of her. I spent a couple of days wandering around, but saved the real sights to share with her. The pictures start just after we met up.
We got to watch midday prayer inside the Blue Mosque, which was one of the more magical experiences of either of our lives. I was raised Jewish, and it absolutely amazed me how similar the services are to each other. Why cant we all just get along!
Istanbul was cool, but we are mountain folk. So we were pretty psyched to get on our way down south. We took a 45 minute long Turkish Airways flight to the city of Antalya.
Getting from the airport to the little town in the mountains was kinda difficult. Especially since we spoke no Turkish (aside from: "Thank you", "Please", "What is your name", "Beer", and "Goodbye"). After witing at a street corner for ~5 hours, we caught one of the 2-3 daily buses up to Geyikbayiri. We stayed at a climber's camp run by a childhood friend of my Turkish climbing partner.
We woke up in sport climbing paradise:
The rock took some getting used to. I had never climbed on limestone. It was SEVERELY overhung tufa climbing....which is basically the opposite of my style. Fortunately it is bolted with mathematical precision, so you could push yourself as hard as you wanted to. Nevertheless, I needed to seriously recalibrate myself!
After 4 days of these shenanigans, we were DESTROYED, so we took a rest day.
We caught a ride with a couple of Spaniards to Olympos. On the way we stopped at the ruins of the 2,000 year old Lycian city of Phaselis.
We got to Olympos and it started to rain! 4 days of rain! Fortunately there was plenty to do: climb in a cave, explore the 2,500 year of ruins of Olympos, visit the tomb of St. Nicholas, and see the flame of the Chimera.
We visited the "Flame of the Chimera", one of the wonders of the ancient world. It is a natural gas seep up through this spectacular band of fault breccia. We met some Turks who were cooking food on them!
The next day, we went to the city of Myra. Myra is located ~80 km south and west of Olympos. It began to look like the rain may stop! We were getting pretty psyched!
We briefly stopped by the tomb of St Nicholas. Apparently St. Nick was a Byzantine monk who gave gifts to kids. Pretty different from the image of St nick most people know...
FINALLY! The rain stopped! We went to a crag we had been eyeing for a while. It is called "Cennet" - Turkish for "Heaven". Dead vertical limestone glory over the Mediterranean. We got to climb here for 2 days before we had to leave.
We got to meet a couple of climbers from Dresden who climb on those sandstone towers where you are not allowed to used metal protection. They showed us their "textile friend"
The next day was our last day, and my birthday...so we had to go big!
Then we had to go home! We had a 14 hour layover in Istanbul, so we went downtown and hit the spice market and the clubs!
Overall, it was a fantastic time. A way cheaper and more interesting alternative to the other European destinations. 2 thumbs up!
Tushuker Ederem! Hosh Cha Khal!
(Now everyone can get back to guns, boobs, aliens, and worrying about who is a fascist)
RP3
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About the Author RP3 is a big wall climber from El Portal/Chapel Hill. |
Comments
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jan 13, 2013 - 08:33pm PT
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Cool pics! Turkey is awesome.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Wyoming
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Jan 13, 2013 - 08:46pm PT
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Thanks. You two look like really fun people too.
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Newbury Park
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Author's Reply
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Jan 13, 2013 - 08:50pm PT
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Thanks Peter! We like to think so. At least we amuse ourselves....
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mrtropy
Trad climber
Nor Cal
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Jan 13, 2013 - 08:51pm PT
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Thanks looks like great fun
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Hoots
climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Jan 13, 2013 - 09:02pm PT
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Sweet TR Rog! Both you and Robin looked like you had a blast!
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jan 13, 2013 - 09:18pm PT
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Good show. I climbed with a guy from Turkey a couple weeks ago who talked about great seaside/beachside limestone and how Europeans often visited but not many North Americans. Now I'll get back to asking Tony, etc.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 13, 2013 - 09:18pm PT
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Nice TR and great to see things other than climbing even though the climbing looked inviting. So much history!
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gstock
climber
Yosemite Valley
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Jan 13, 2013 - 10:45pm PT
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Awesome Roger! Looks like you two had an amazing time.
Before you graduate, I'm gonna have Allen test you on stalactite versus stalagmite!
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 13, 2013 - 10:32pm PT
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What Haan said, and I'm a little jealous, too.
Good for you quys.
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Jan 13, 2013 - 10:40pm PT
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Beautiful! Makes me wanna go there! Thanks for the TR.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Jan 13, 2013 - 11:11pm PT
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Great TR! I love Turkey. Want to do some bike touring there someday. Thanks again.
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Jan 13, 2013 - 11:11pm PT
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very nice trip, you SIR are a LUCKY man!!!
Thanks for making my day!!!!
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tinker b
climber
the commonwealth
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Jan 13, 2013 - 11:59pm PT
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yeah roger,
thanks for sharing. the tombs carved out of limestone were bad ass. it looked like you and robin had a good time. i had you voice in my head as i read it.
j
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Newbury Park
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Author's Reply
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Jan 14, 2013 - 08:32am PT
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Wait up Greg...
I'm gonna have to cite wikipedia on this one...stelagtites come from above!
Thanks for the well wishes...if anyone ever wants Turkey beta, get in touch! We cant wait to go back...
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jan 14, 2013 - 09:12am PT
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Enjoyed that!
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snakefoot
climber
Nor Cal
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Jan 14, 2013 - 10:48am PT
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fantastic!
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
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Jan 14, 2013 - 11:05am PT
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My kind of trip! I love traveling and I love climbing, so to me the best climbing partners are those who also want to take the time to see the sites! Thanks for sharing some highlights from a part of the world that is high on my list to see.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Jan 14, 2013 - 11:10am PT
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Nice!
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Jan 14, 2013 - 11:14am PT
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Really enjoyed the report. I had a wonderful 2 weeks in Geyikbayiri a few years ago. Enjoyed the climbing, the people, the food and the sights. I also love ancient ruins, and visited the nearby sight of Terremessos--very impressive. The only negative was the heat. We were there in Oct. and much of the crag was too hot to climb for much of the day. What time of year were you there?
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caughtinside
Social climber
Oakland, CA
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Jan 14, 2013 - 12:51pm PT
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Rad dude. Thanks for posting.
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RyanD
climber
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Jan 14, 2013 - 01:05pm PT
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Wow, great report from a far away land. That stone looks amazing. I want!
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John Duffield
Mountain climber
New York
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Jan 14, 2013 - 01:09pm PT
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Stunning.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Jan 14, 2013 - 01:34pm PT
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Limestone rocks and so does Robin!
Your TR's top-notch!
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Republic, WA
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Jan 14, 2013 - 01:39pm PT
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Another wow. What a great trip in such an interesting location.
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J. Werlin
Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
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Jan 14, 2013 - 02:24pm PT
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great TR--many thanks.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Jan 14, 2013 - 02:36pm PT
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What a great looking trip. That history makes our country seem so new and makes you think how small we are in the scope of time. Thanks for the great TR.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jan 14, 2013 - 02:36pm PT
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Complete international awesomeness!
+10!
So great when we get more than just a few climbing pix on one of these TR's.
MORE!!!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 14, 2013 - 02:46pm PT
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Not your typical supertopo trip report! Thank you for sharing, seems like you two had a blast!
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
On the road.
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Jan 14, 2013 - 02:47pm PT
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Cool trip.
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roy
Social climber
NZ -> SB,CA -> Zurich
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Jan 14, 2013 - 03:18pm PT
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What a great trip. I've only been once and found that Turkey is a fantastic place. Very friendly people and amazing rock.
Cheers, Roy
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jan 14, 2013 - 03:30pm PT
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Thank you very much for exploring off the beaten track and giving us such a wonderful set of pictures and a great trip report. My mother (still living and still possessing her faculties) was born a subject of the Ottoman Empire in 1912 in the city of Kharpert (adjacent to the modern village of Harput) in eastern Turkey (traditional western Armenia). Although she and the rest of her family were imprisoned in 1915, and her father (my grandfather) killed, she was saved from the death marches, and stayed in Kharpert until the massacres of 1923, when she and her family fled to Beirut.
If for no other reason than that, I have always wanted to visit Turkey but, alas, my visits have been limited to Google Earth. In addition, though, I have read several books on the Byzantine Empire, and I find Constantinople to present a fascinating contrast to the rest of Europe during the Middle Ages. Add to that the fact that all of the Turkish people I've met have been interesting and friendly, and you can imagine my enthusiasm as I read your report and looked at your pictures.
Thanks again for such a tantalizing taste of a very fascinating place.
John
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ddriver
Trad climber
SLC, UT
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Jan 14, 2013 - 04:35pm PT
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Nice TR. Turkey is wonderful in so many ways, perhaps most surprisingly to me was how good the food was. Yum
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Jan 14, 2013 - 05:24pm PT
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Yay!! Real climbing content!!!!
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Jan 14, 2013 - 05:44pm PT
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Great TR!!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jan 14, 2013 - 06:57pm PT
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Really cool looking place.
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Jan 14, 2013 - 08:43pm PT
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What an excellent trip report! I love the mix of travelogue and climbing photos. And it's great to see someone having fun in the sun, on the rock. You and your sweetie look like a great team.
Thanks! Phyl
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lars johansen
Trad climber
West Marin, CA
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Jan 14, 2013 - 09:09pm PT
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I really enjoyed your TR. It brought back a lot of memories of Turkey, one of my all time favorite places to visit.
Thanks
lars
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Risk
Mountain climber
Marooned, 855 miles from Tuolumne Meadows
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Jan 14, 2013 - 11:25pm PT
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Really happy to get a glimpse of what looked like a fantastic adventure! Thank you!
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Rankin
Social climber
Winston-Salem, North Carolina
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Jan 14, 2013 - 11:57pm PT
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That's the stuff!
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Jan 15, 2013 - 12:07am PT
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Way to get medieval. Amazing looking place. Thanks for the great trip report.
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ryankelly
climber
Bhumi
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Jan 15, 2013 - 12:26am PT
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Yeah Roger! Yeah Robin!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Jan 15, 2013 - 01:39am PT
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Love the Textile camming unit!!
Looks fun
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Jan 15, 2013 - 02:07am PT
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Ahh, so you did decide to post it
Nice TR. Those amphitheaters are kinda cool.
Greg is correct. Stalactite think c as in ceiling. Stalagmite think g as in ground.
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cuvvy
Sport climber
arkansas
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Jan 15, 2013 - 02:21am PT
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Looks like a neat adventure. some day. Some day.
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jan 15, 2013 - 02:23am PT
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Thanks for taking the time to post this great trip report!
Turkey is on my "drop-dead" agenda!
Everyone I know, that has gone there, has had a great time!
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TrundleBum
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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Jan 15, 2013 - 03:19am PT
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Beautiful...
Great TR ! TFPU
Hey is the shot of the 'smoking in the tea house'... that's not the 'Pudding Shop' in Istanbul perchance is it ?
There is so much cool rock in Turkiye
I remember some great looking granite in the sou east.
Thanks for the mega memory jog...
Again TFPU.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
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Jan 15, 2013 - 07:10am PT
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I too am a fan of the scenery and history that Turkey has to offer.
Thanks for bringing it all back so vividly.
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Adamame
climber
Santa Cruz
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Jan 15, 2013 - 03:51pm PT
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Looks like some good fun and awesome history immersion. I miss the contagious enthusiasm that the two of you exude. It's got me psyched to head to Europe in a few months.
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revert510
Sport climber
Springfield, VA
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Jan 15, 2013 - 05:54pm PT
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Brilliant TR, loved it. Istanbul is a fantastic place to vist, but now I know I missed most of the fun. Great photos!
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Newbury Park
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Author's Reply
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Jan 15, 2013 - 07:17pm PT
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Thanks, everyone for the kudos!
Greg/Bryan - What we have there is a misspelling. I wrote "stelaGtite" When I meant to write "stelaCtite"....either way, dont tell Allen ;)
We were there this past holiday season...it was perfect climbing in the sun. Although, there was not as much sun as we hoped. It did rain for 5 days straight! It is definitely a good time of year to visit as long as the rain gods are nice to you.
However, we concluded that we probably did not miss out on all that much climbing because our (mostly my) skin could not take that much pulling on sharp-as-a-knife limestone!
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Michelle
Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
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Jan 15, 2013 - 07:38pm PT
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super cool!
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Jan 22, 2013 - 09:22am PT
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bump
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Daphne
Trad climber
Northern California
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Woohoo! This looks like an awesome trip. Thanks for documenting your fun for future climbers.
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Newbury Park
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Author's Reply
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Mar 2, 2015 - 09:57am PT
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Party on, Wayne!
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Looks like it's worth a trip......
Are those Christian images in the roof of the Mosque? I presume that bit was once A Church?
Steve
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Wow that is some of the coolest looking limestone I have seen.
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dirt claud
Social climber
san diego,ca
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Looks like an awesome trip, thanks for sharing
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Absolutely Fabulous TR!
Turkey is dreamy and unlike lots of exotic places you can eat salad and vegetables without paying for the indulgence which is heavenly considering the food is delicious!
Mimi and me didn't do any climbing when we were there but spent some quality time taking in everything else that we could.
I hope that you were able to check out the Chora church in Istanbul for the exquisite Byzantine mosaics only a taste of which remains in Aya Sofia.
Thanks for sharing your fun with us!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Very cool stuff, Daphne check this out!
Oh, you did...
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Fantasic! My wife and I are going to Turkey for two weeks in late Sept.
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ryankelly
climber
Bhumi
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I read this as "ancient ruins of sport climbing" and for a second I realized exactly why ancient civilizations had collapsed...
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Newbury Park
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Author's Reply
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Mar 7, 2015 - 08:19am PT
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Why would ancient civilizations have collapsed from sport climbing, rkelly? Did they get so swole they imploded like a neutron star?
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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Glad this got bumped so I could catch a look. Really cool.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Thanks for inserting the culture, in the forum and guide. Great TR.
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enjoimx
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Hi Roger I met you at Gold wall a few weeks ago. My name is Rob. Great trip report. Do you know if many people climb in Turkey in April and May? Also, were there many people there looking for partners? I might end up going alone. Thanks
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moacman
Trad climber
Montuckyian Via Canada Eh!
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Wow...........
Stevo
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