Tres escaladores mas tonto que todo en "La Cierta Edad" (Red Rock, 5.10)

by WML
Monday April 29, 2013 1:52am

While in Michigan for work this last week, imbibing upon some beverages after work, I just wanted to be home. Naturally, I began plotting things for my return to Las Vegas - the temperatures are increasing and I wanted to get on some climbs before the heat rises to obscene levels.

One such climb I had been eyeballing is La Cierta Edad (5.10, Icebox Canyon), a classic Urioste route which had prompted much discussion. The climbing line was aesthetic, the climbing varied, and the reviews were solid. Now to find a partner...while imbibing I was texting Jon and Travis both to see what their weekend plans were - Jon was going to be in San Diego and Travis might be game if he was free. Well, come Friday night I'm back in Vegas and both are free to go (no SD for Jon) - time to make it happen!

With an alpine start meeting time of 7:30...am....at my house, we load up Travis's truck and head to the park.


20-25 mins of hiking deliver us to the pedestal at the base of the route. The first pitch is about 110-120' and has 4 bolts on it...but fun 5.7/8 climbing!


Spaceships don't come equipped with rear view mirrors
Spaceships don't come equipped with rear view mirrors
Credit: WML



Money on tha dressa, drive a Kompressa
Money on tha dressa, drive a Kompressa
Credit: WML



Desert in bloom!
Desert in bloom!
Credit: WML


A quick belay changeover and off I went to lead the next pitch, a 5.9+ super fun chimney to some awesome techy corner climbing. Sweet stemming, delicate footwork, and placing ornamental protection in hollow sandstone made this a pitch to make sure I stayed on the rock and not flying through the air. These first two pitches put me in a proper head space that routes like this sometimes can demand. The technical nature of the climbing kept my mind immersed in the work at hand, with the consequences upping the ante.

The chimney was particularly captivating given my smaller (5'7) stature...


This is how we chill from '93 till
This is how we chill from '93 till
Credit: WML



Get da most not da lessa
Get da most not da lessa
Credit: WML



Clippity Clip
Clippity Clip
Credit: WML



I smashed up a grey one bought me a red, every time we hit the parkin'...
I smashed up a grey one bought me a red, every time we hit the parkin' lot we turn heads
Credit: WML



You can find me in St. Louis rollin' on dubs
You can find me in St. Louis rollin' on dubs
Credit: WML



Mean mugs 'n shoulder shrugs
Mean mugs 'n shoulder shrugs
Credit: WML



T-Pain working on his windmill skillz
T-Pain working on his windmill skillz
Credit: WML


After the awesome previous pitch, you look up an aesthetic crack in a corner that varies from tips to wide. After collecting gear and BS'ing a bit I launched off into the third lead of the day. Jon and Travis really enjoyed this pitch, and how couldn't they? Excellent aesthetic movement in a 5.10 dihedral with a variety of movement. I took the camera with me on this pitch....


View from the drivers seat
View from the drivers seat
Credit: WML



Clear my mind and recline on the runway from Monday to Sunday
Clear my mind and recline on the runway from Monday to Sunday
Credit: WML



Maneuverin through Vancouver and on to Japan where they put major gran...
Maneuverin through Vancouver and on to Japan where they put major grands in my hand
Credit: WML


Unfortunately after that last shot, the camera died. The adventure, however, was still on. The third pitch ended at a very uncomfortable hanging belay in a corner, and given our party size things were more than cozy. I took off on to the much-ballyhooed fourth pitch, where estimations of the grade of the pitch ranged from 5.9 to 5.11 - a rather broad distribution. Time to find out what the hype was all about!

After climbing the easy OW (5.8ish) to the crux move, things were pretty obvious as to what to do. I felt the moved weighed in somewhere in the 5.10 grade, where...who the hell knows. My partners thought it harder, as others have...so who knows. It is fun, well protected, and no reason not to go for it.

Following the crux I was keeping my eyes open for a rap station as we were going to rap the route. Unable to find this station (more on this later), I keep going...and going...and going....into poor rock quality and lacking protection, things became quite adventurous quickly.

I found what I thought was the fifth pitch corner (it was) and some bail gear at the base of it. From below it looked harder than 5.10 and the bail gear made me think I might have been off route. After talking it over with Jon and Travis, I decide to take off on this last pitch we hadn't planned on climbing. I go from being scared we are off route to elated when I saw the bolted anchors and rap slings...it truly is incredible the range of emotions a single route can put you through.

From here the descent was uneventful once I brought the guys up....thank God. I was afraid of rope snags the whole time, yet fortuitously we escaped with no ropes hung up and walked out with plenty of daylight left.

All in all, La Cierta Edad is a classic route and regardless of the grade, deserves more traffic than it gets. We did have to wait at the base a little bit for the slab to go into the shade. Dark varnish + well-spaced bolts + sunlight (and warm temps) == good conditions.

Oh yeah, and this also was Jon's first multi-pitch trad climb! He did one hell of a job following and keeping his composure.

Thank you for reading!

Trip Report Views: 987


WML About the Author
WML is a purveyor of margaritas and diet mountain dew (although not together, nor necessarily in that order) who lives to redline the fun meter

Comments
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Comment on this Trip Report


WML

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock

Author's Reply Apr 29, 2013 - 10:27am PT
BUMP!


Studly

Trad climber
WA

Apr 29, 2013 - 10:33am PT
Great looking route that I've never done. Might have to give it a shot, thank you. Nice photos.


Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp

Apr 29, 2013 - 10:40am PT
Nice!

But... are you charging for your guide services?

Get paid, sucka!


Deekaid

climber

Apr 29, 2013 - 12:37pm PT
Tiffypoo!!! This is the stuff that keeps me coming back. Thanks again.


WML

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock

Author's Reply Apr 29, 2013 - 04:15pm PT
Thanks!

Jebus: Just a fun day in the hills with some friends, man. Was stoked to get to lead every pitch on this thing, as they were all a blast...and no SUPER sketchy off route approaching was involved LOL. Doh! Still kicking myself in the ass for that one, although...on the first rap I did hear the Oak Creek Boar-Man in the background. Sent shivers up and down my spine...


Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA

Apr 29, 2013 - 04:41pm PT
Nice photos, especially of that beautiful chimney!


Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco

Apr 29, 2013 - 04:46pm PT
Thanks for posting, "T-Pain working on his windmill skillz" pic made my day. lulz


labrat

Trad climber
Auburn, CA

Apr 29, 2013 - 07:24pm PT
Nice!
If I cannot climb for a bit I might as well read about it.....


WML

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock

Author's Reply Apr 30, 2013 - 12:08pm PT
Thanks! The chimney was pretty wide but I, too, am pretty short....aesthetic though!

Vitaliy, glad someone reads my captions lol

Thank you everyone for reading.


Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf

Apr 30, 2013 - 11:20pm PT
I love that canyon!!!
Thanks!!!!


Burch3y

Mountain climber
I offer nothing to the discussion

May 1, 2013 - 12:13am PT
This thing was chocked full of lulz - I dig your style. TFPU


portent

Social climber
your mom's house

May 1, 2013 - 12:33am PT
Nice!!!

Thanks for the TR...

--Kovar


WML

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock

Author's Reply May 1, 2013 - 02:06pm PT
Glad ya'll enjoyed it! I post the RR TR's here to boost the stoke since there are rocks worth climbing outside of California...maybe.


RP3

Big Wall climber
Twain Harte

May 1, 2013 - 02:21pm PT
Thanks for posting, as always Weston! That route is a damn good one and deserves more traffic (...or not!!)

Good to hear you are tearing it up down there.


WML

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock

Author's Reply May 2, 2013 - 11:23am PT
I was amazed how good it was yet how unheralded it was as well. What did you think of the grade of the thing? Nobody i know can come to much of a consensus on it. Classic route with no crowds? Yes please

I'm just trying to take full advantage of my mew backyard....speaking of which, when are you headed West again?


The Hawk

climber

Apr 17, 2014 - 07:10pm PT
Bump for a quality guy and quality spray!!1!!1


skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA

Apr 17, 2014 - 07:27pm PT
Cool chimney bump!! Embrace the wide!