Trip Report
Trad neophyte on Venusian Blind
Wednesday June 11, 2014 11:42pm
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First off, a little context...
Before last weekend I had:
-only led 4 single pitch trad climbs
-only built 2 gear anchors
-never done an alpine climb
-never swung leads
-never been backpacking
All of that I wanted to change before my life gets flipped upside-down in a few months, and fortunately I have a cousin who has lots of experience in all those things, and is apparently dumb enough to trust me with them, even knowing how little experience I had.
Even more fortunate, his trust proved well founded, we had an amazing and successful trip, and I only truly thought I might die for less than an hour, when I got temporarily trapped on the scree-talus-morain-landslide hell between Alice and Temple on the descent after dark when I tried to go to retrieve our ice axes.
Now on to the goods!
Loading up before starting a four day diet of backpacking food.
Since we were passing by we decided to add a fifth trad lead to my resume.
Acclimating on top of Fourth Buttress at Chipmunk Flat on the SPH. We spent a night up there to adjust (happily monster-free).
We don't have to grow up anytime soon, do we?
Next day at the North Fork of the Big pine Trail head. Pack 'em up...
...and move 'em out!
Scenery's pretty good right out the gate.
Overall, a beautiful trail. I want to come back and enjoy it as a day hike someday (we were chuggin'!)
First peek of the peak!
Game's suddenly feeling pretty real. Our camp was right by the small snowfield in the bottem left of the picture.
Even much-maligned Mt. Alice has moments of peaceful beauty. She wasn't ever quiet for long, though.
Having a hard time getting to sleep, and it isn't because of how bright the moon is.
Ready to go!
Feeling like Ueli.
Amazing 3rd/4th class approach. You get real high real quick.
Sick, brah!
View from about halfway up.
We had the entire mountain to ourselves, including Moon Goddess to our right...
...and, not surprisingly, Jenga Arete to our left.
The last hurdle before the summit ridge!
There aren't words to describe a view like this, and everything that goes with it.
If anyone finds a red 5.10 Guide on Venusian Blind my cousin would love to get it back. Its strap broke somewhere on the second half of the route. Fortunately he's very ingenious, and his sleeping pad sandals carried him and his 60 lb. pack all the way back to the car.
Success!
Comments
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Jun 11, 2014 - 11:45pm PT
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Hexentric ascent to boot?! Nice, style point achievement unlocked!
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looks easy from here
climber
Santa Cruzish
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Author's Reply
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Jun 21, 2014 - 05:12pm PT
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Thanks guys.
I snagged a copy of the SPH guide as soon as it came out, and I've been coveting Hexentric ever since. It was just as awesome as it looks!
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jun 12, 2014 - 12:12am PT
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The best trip reports make me wish I was there. Yours succeeds with ease. Thanks for the report, pictures, and sharing an excellent effort.
John
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Jun 12, 2014 - 03:58am PT
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CoolTR, sounds like you are hooked!!!!
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fluffy
Trad climber
Colorado
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Jun 12, 2014 - 05:47am PT
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Sleeping pad sandals?? Awesome! That's using the ol' coconut!
Great job man, thanks for sharing.
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Jun 12, 2014 - 07:14am PT
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Fortunately he's very ingenious, and his sleeping pad sandals carried him and his 60 lb. pack all the way back to the car.
awesome!
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johntp
Trad climber
Punter, Little Rock
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Jun 12, 2014 - 07:25am PT
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60 lb. pack? ouch.
nice job and TR.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Jun 12, 2014 - 07:34am PT
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Cool stuff. Patent that sandel design.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Jun 12, 2014 - 09:22am PT
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This was great! Did you take any leads? How did they go?
I've noticed your handle around the ST, and always appreciated the name. Now a super high quality TR. looks easy from here is is an up-and-coming TR machine in the making, I can feel it.
NutAgain! and I got into those horrible scree and dust slopes along Temple's flank when we were coming down, which was at about midnight. Grim over there!
What's this reference to a life change in a few months? Buying your first 8.2 for Sierra ridge traverses? Anything to increase the TR output, I stand behind.
We don't have to grow up anytime soon, do we?
Negative on that one, bub!
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BuddhaStalin
climber
Truckee, CA
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Jun 12, 2014 - 09:28am PT
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get some, way to get after it
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RyanD
climber
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Jun 12, 2014 - 09:36am PT
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This was a fun TR. Really appreciate the stoke & for sharing what was a new experience for yourself.
Sometimes I try to put a gauge or meter on it, but have come to realize that it's totally arbitrary to try & measure how great it really is to walk up into the high country & climb on top of a mountain.
If you are lucky enough to be in the mountains, well, you are lucky enough.
Thanks for the reminder.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Jun 12, 2014 - 10:40am PT
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Very cool dude!! Thanks! This one is high on the list!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jun 12, 2014 - 03:50pm PT
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Loading up before starting a four day diet of backpacking food Love this stage! And love your TR! You guys seem SUPER stoked! Glad you liked it. VB is not the best Sierra route, so everything else you will do will be even better!! Hope to see more TRs!
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msiddens
Trad climber
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Jun 12, 2014 - 03:58pm PT
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Lol niiiiice! Love the shoes. A worthy route and Moon God is even better!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jun 12, 2014 - 04:01pm PT
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WOOT!!
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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Jun 12, 2014 - 04:12pm PT
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You were gonna die!
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
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Jun 12, 2014 - 04:24pm PT
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This is what life is all about! Biting off a big chunk for an epic adventure, not quite sure what you're getting into :)
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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Jun 12, 2014 - 04:54pm PT
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That last photo really sums up the urge to get out there soon for me!! Thanks for the TR. Good Job getting on it.........
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jun 12, 2014 - 05:09pm PT
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HELL yes.
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johnboy
Trad climber
Can't get here from there
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Jun 12, 2014 - 06:36pm PT
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Nice, thanks.
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looks easy from here
climber
Santa Cruzish
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Author's Reply
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Jun 13, 2014 - 12:00am PT
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Wow! Thanks for all the kind words. Now I don't feel so bad that writing about it took almost as long as climbing it...
Did you take any leads? How did they go?
Yeah. We swapped leads, so I got plenty of time on the sharp end. Somehow I got the best sections on the route-pitches 6 and 9 per Supertopo (or 2 and 4 for us, iirc, thanks to double slings and a 70m rope). My pro and anchors were all solid, and I never felt the urge to panic-sew a crack. Of course most of my experience is at the Pinns and on Yosemite "sport" climbs, so I'm pretty comfortable on rock of dubious security and long run-outs on easy terrain.
What's this reference to a life change in a few months?
I expect I'll share more in a few weeks. ;)
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jonnyrig
climber
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Jun 13, 2014 - 08:42am PT
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Nice!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jun 13, 2014 - 09:50am PT
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Nicely done, welcome to the clan.....but, remember, friends don't let their friends drink PBR!
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Stevee B
Trad climber
Oakland, CA
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Jun 13, 2014 - 10:18am PT
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You have stoked me. Thank you sir! Looking forward to more!
Inspired by the sleeping pad flip flops. Been there!
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Jun 16, 2014 - 10:19pm PT
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Oh yeah!
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crankster
Trad climber
No. Tahoe
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Jun 17, 2014 - 06:50am PT
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Excellent job!
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Jun 18, 2014 - 03:03am PT
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Awesome
The last pic is spectacular
I found that red 5.10 Guide rock shoe, it had a tampon in it, though
Anything you want to tell us?
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looks easy from here
climber
Santa Cruzish
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Author's Reply
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Jun 21, 2014 - 05:27pm PT
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60 lb. pack? ouch.
I was afraid it would kill me when I first put it on, but we hit the groove pretty quickly and even with the altitude it wasn't too bad.
next time you're up there amble over to the summit and check out the register. The entries in there will water your eyes.
We made it one gap away, but the physical and mental exhaustion made it just too much of a push for this trip. But we'll be back (Vitaliy's opinion aside :p ).
friends don't let their friends drink PBR!
I always say that 'til I taste it: it's never as bad as I remember, even half-warm.
I found that red 5.10 Guide rock shoe, it had a tampon in it, though
New or used?
Regarding the sandals, my cousin took inspiration from the huaraches of the Tarahumara's of Mexico who make them out of tires and run in ultramarathons in them.
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brad_wk
Trad climber
Humble, TX
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Jul 27, 2014 - 01:31pm PT
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Thanks for sharing! Heading out also in a few weeks. Is there any gear that would have been useful that you didn't have with you? Also, what would you recommend for approach shoes....simple shoes or mountaineering boots?
Your pics and post very much appreciated!
Brad
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Jul 27, 2014 - 06:07pm PT
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Good job.
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looks easy from here
climber
Santa Cruzish
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Author's Reply
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Jul 29, 2014 - 10:08am PT
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Thanks for sharing! Heading out also in a few weeks. Is there any gear that would have been useful that you didn't have with you? Also, what would you recommend for approach shoes....simple shoes or mountaineering boots?
Your pics and post very much appreciated!
Brad
I just wore my trailrunners for the hike and approach until I decided I would rather have something stickier (about halfway up the 4th class section). Our rack was BD cams .4-3, DMM Wallnuts 1-11, DMM offsets 7-11 and WC hexes 6-8, which we felt was perfect-even with our longer pitches (we did it in either 8 or 10, don't remember) that's plenty to protect the harder sections and build bomber anchors as long as you don't get too gear happy on the easier stuff.
Biggest piece of advice-STUDY THE DESCENT INFO! And if it looks like it's going to get dark wait 'til the next day to retrieve your axes (assuming you even need to bring them). Don't do like I did and almost end up having to spend a night on the Mt. Alice moraine to avoid landsliding yourself to death (literally the most scared for my life I've ever been).
Have fun! It's an amazing climb in an amazing setting.
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The route as seen from Second Lake. Photo: SP Parker
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The route as seen from Second Lake. |
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