Trip Report
The Sum of Bouldering=100+ Pictures
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Saturday February 22, 2014 3:03pm
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This is not a single trip report, it is a summary of multiple trips from 2006-2011. Bouldering will always have a special spot in my heart. Days filled with laughter, pain, and best of all, friends.
San Joaquin River Gorge or Squaw Leap
This is a winter bouldering paradise. Auberry, CA is the closest town about twenty minutes away. The boulders are a polished granite similar to the Valley. It requires that delicate balance between strength and finesse. Pull too hard and you pop off and too soft results the same. Lip traverses, crimps, some cracks, and some water problems are what make this place great. Many of the boulders have sh#t landings, so bring your friends and pads. Multiple pads are used to fill in holes on some problems. There is a $5 day use fee now, but worth the price. Grahm has a little mini guide for the area on rc.com, I think a lot of these pics are also on there.
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Brandon McLemmore (Mac) on Cedar Wright Left, V3. Cedar Wright is credited with the FA of this perfect rail problem that finishes on pulling a lip.
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Jeremy Ross on Crank it Up, V7. One of the many harder problems by Jacob Copeland.
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Mac on Dead and Bloated, V5.
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Jeremy fighting for leverage on the crux mantle. That left foot is slick and the whole time you feel like a slip results in a new shin shaving. Great problem.
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Top rope wall.
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The left facing crack is a over the water problem called Squaw Leap, V3. It's not the cleanest of falls, you hit a sloping rock that directs you to deeper water.
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Good view of the rock you land on.
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Notice anything? Walking out with wet blue jeans sucks, wearing a swimsuit is highly recommended. This is such a great problem and I fell twice and that rock under water didn't hurt either time.
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Grahm Doe on Dyno Might, V6. A loooong throw and then a committing topout.
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Three great lip traverses. From left to right, Supervisor, V2, High Roller, V5, Steam Roller,V3.
High Roller is the gem of the three.
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Hansel Heiss on Supervisor.
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Grahm on Stilleto, V4. Perfect finger crack that looks easier than it is.
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Leo Miner on Splash Down, V4. A great water problem, that if you're not feeling like swimming you can pretty much top out anywhere on the lip.
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Grahm showing proper landing technique.
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Myself not so much.
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Mac on Heel Boy,V3.
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Grahm on High Voltage, V6.
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Myself on Powerhouse, V4. Campus from two crimps.
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Jeremy on Blackout, V5. No one else even got close on this one, shitty landing.
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Mega Ohm, V5. My favorite problem. This is the view from the footbridge. Each day I would stare at this perfect lip traverse. Finally we decided it had to at least be tried. I remember getting about ten feet on it then saying f*#k, the landing is real shitty and as I fell I was thinking broken ankle. When I landed relatively easy it was game on. My brother Jeremy got the first, Grahm right after, then myself. Three sends in a row and as I sat atop that boulder words can't describe the feeling, but climbers know it well. Why we climb.
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Grahm on Mega Ohm.
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Jeremy on Torque Convertor, V5. Yeah he was sounding like Sharma.
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Myself on Supervisor.
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Grahm on High Wire, V2.
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Jeremy on Desperate Measures, V4. One of the best all around problems down there. A little bit of everything and finishes with this dyno from undercling.
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Another view.
Bare Bottom Boulders
This area is somewhat secret, so can't give the location cause I'm sworn to secrecy. Named Bare Bottom after some hard starts. The climbing is similar to Buttermilks in terms of rock quality and texture.
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Myself on a fun warmup.
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Grahm on can't remember the name, think it's V3? It actually starts way low in a cave and overhanging jugs and tops out with a tough mantle.
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Myself on an Unnamed.
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Hans on an unnamed.
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Hans on Gunslinger, V4. Hard finish.
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The hard finish
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Jeremy on Gunslinger.
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Grahm on .38 Special, V5. The gem of the area, some perfect incuts on this steep problem. Another of my all time favorites.
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Grahm on the FA.
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Jeremy high balling. This is also a top rope.
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Hans on .45 Caliber, V6. Sharp crimps on this one, I could barely get two moves up. Hans has always had a knack for small crimps.
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Hans holds on for the FA and only so far.
Shuteye Ridge
Shuteye is vast and for the most part requires a hike. Once you get there you are rewarded with some of the best rock quality and bouldering in the world. Jugs, incuts, plates, cracks, and dykes all with a rather smooth finish making it finger friendly. The views are great too.
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Jeremy silhouette.
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Jeremy on an Unnamed.
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Shaun Nizah on another Unnamed.
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Slayer, V5 maybe 6. Not sure if anyone else has done this, but I called it Slayer after the band and because it slays people and doesn't look like it would.
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Another view of the slick rail.
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Matt Schutz on a V3, not sure of name.
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Jeremy on same problem
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Grahm leads Machete, 5.10d on the Petrified Elephant Boulder
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Jeremy on same climb, I'm the badass belaying.
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Grahm on Martian Traverse, V3. This one is nearly horizontal, with big jugs and a fun mantle finish.
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Myself on the Earth Boulder.
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Myself on Space Cadet, 5.7. Fun four bolt climb.
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Myself on IHOP, 10d I think. Crux is low then a mellow 40' of climbing.
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FA pics by Slater.
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Mac on Unnamed.
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Mac on a fun warmup wall.
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Myself on another Unnamed.
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You guessed it another Unnamed fun problem.
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Kevin Ludwig aka Doughnutnational on Show Me Your Tips, V2.
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Ludwig on an Unnamed.
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More Unnamed.
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Mac
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My baby (not the dude)
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Be sure to chalk up
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Myself on Th Spine, VB.
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My other baby.
Bonus Pics
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Jeremy on Whiskey Traverse, V4. This thing is five minutes from my house and by one of the best swimming holes around.
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Jeremy bouldering at Squarnail.
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Myself being camera shy
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Hans on Ben Hur Boulder.
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Total top secret spot.
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A Nickle to first to get what problem this is.
Hopefully some will enjoy the bouldering at these areas, they will always have a special place in my heart and mind.
Regards,
Justin Ross
this just in
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About the Author
this just in is a climber from north fork. |
Comments
ncrockclimber
climber
The Desert Oven
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Feb 22, 2014 - 04:34pm PT
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Wow! Just WOW! Thanks for posting up. That took some of the sting out of sitting at home sick on a Saturday.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Feb 22, 2014 - 05:13pm PT
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Very cool Justin!! Thanks! You guys need to name some problems me thinks!! ;)
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lars johansen
Trad climber
West Marin, CA
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Feb 22, 2014 - 06:13pm PT
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Very nice overview of recent bouldering trips. Thanks
lars
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RyanD
climber
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Feb 22, 2014 - 07:36pm PT
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Inspiring stuff Justin & amazing photos! Thanks for the efforts here man, I know this must've taken you awhile to put together.
I'm psyched! Too bad it's snowing, well that's ok I guess....but this TR has me jonesing.
Some of that stone you get to climb on looks immaculate. You are Super lucky to have so many beautiful areas nearby. What's the best season?
Oh, 1 more question: do you do real climbing too???
;-)
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Feb 22, 2014 - 07:55pm PT
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Worthy!
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Wyoming
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Feb 22, 2014 - 09:13pm PT
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Worthy no kidding.
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jgill
Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
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Feb 22, 2014 - 09:26pm PT
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do you do real climbing too???
Pay no attention to this ;>)
It's a nice energetic sport isn't it? I'm amazed at the number of participants these days.
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RyanD
climber
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Feb 23, 2014 - 12:29am PT
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do you do real climbing too???
Mr Gill, I thought you would pick up on my sarcasm :-)
I love bouldering!!
& I can't stop looking at these pics!
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Author's Reply
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Feb 23, 2014 - 01:50am PT
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Ha, I knew your sarcasm and that you're not a real climber too Ryan. I was hoping Mr. Gill would see this. One of my climbing heroes, thanks for all your climbing pioneering jgill.
Thanks for all the comments everyone.
Ryan, summer/ fall is best for climbing around here. Mi casa es su casa. Wait, do Canadians know what that means?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Feb 23, 2014 - 01:22am PT
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nice collection of pics and dig the pure love of the area coming thru!
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Feb 23, 2014 - 03:16am PT
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The-Sum-of-Bouldering and The-Hum-of-Rock. Simply amazing....
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Feb 23, 2014 - 07:09am PT
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This is the REAL DEAL!!!!
Nice collection. Great effort!!!!!
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Feb 23, 2014 - 07:10am PT
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hey there say, this just in...
wow, this just great, it is...
:)
thanks for sharing... can't see all the pics, or i'd say more...
really neat, though, :
thank you again...
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RyanD
climber
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Feb 23, 2014 - 10:41am PT
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Ryan, summer/ fall is best for climbing around here. Mi casa es su casa. Wait, do Canadians know what that means?
You got it man, learned that one already. It was above the door in the washroom of a Mexican restaurant when I was in America once. It means all employees must wash their hands before returning to work right??
Lol just kiddin yeah right back atcha Justin that'd be cool!
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Gene
climber
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Feb 23, 2014 - 10:49am PT
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Somethings wrong. Very low beanie-to-boulder ratio.
TFPU.
g
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Author's Reply
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Feb 23, 2014 - 12:03pm PT
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Gene, that's a good one.
Ryan, your Spanish is spot on.
Big Mike, Unnamed just sounds so cool. I think many have names, but I have forgot what we called them and some have been climbed before and don't know what they called them.
Moose, poor has never felt so good.
Jefe and Peter, thanks, you guys are always posting worth.
Nrock, glad I could help it's been a nasty flu season.
Lars, thanks for the comments.
Neebee, this thing musta been a nightmare to load on dial up, thanks.
Randisi, I am glad you got to see these, cause I enjoy the bouldering pics you've posted.
Marlow, always appreciate your kind words, good to see Norway doing good in the Olympics.
Munge, thanks and you know what I'm talking about.
Dr Fry, Glad you liked it and it's not too late.
Ezra, thanks for always being stoked to see TRs.
Can't believe no one has named the mystery problem at the end.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Feb 23, 2014 - 05:06pm PT
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Stoked!
Yer mystery problem is too easy. Cocaine Corner, Camp 4.
One of my favorites. That thing bouted me for years and years, finally did it after countless attempts, and can usually do it within a couple tries in good temps these days. Super classic.
Here's a spotter-free run from a couple seasons ago in awful temps (~88F):
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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sandstone conglomerate
climber
sharon conglomerate central
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Feb 23, 2014 - 05:45pm PT
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Great TR, How can you not love bouldering? Climbing at it's most basic.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Author's Reply
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Feb 23, 2014 - 06:44pm PT
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Thanks sandstone, I agree.
Elcapinyoazz for the win, I thought it was easy and would be identified right away. It is a fun one, thanks for the video. 88 degrees is not ideal.
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Leggs
Sport climber
Made in California, living in The Old Pueblo
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Feb 23, 2014 - 06:51pm PT
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This is f*#king AWESOME!!!!!!!
Super stoked! Thanks for sharin'!
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doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
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Feb 23, 2014 - 07:38pm PT
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Awesome pictures thanks for posting. I want to try the crack the guy in the green shirt is climbing.
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David D.
Trad climber
California
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Feb 23, 2014 - 10:10pm PT
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Are the pictures broken for anyone else?
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Author's Reply
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Feb 24, 2014 - 12:27pm PT
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Thanks leggs, glad you enjoyed it.
Ludwig, when we can get up there let's go do that thing.
David, I haven't had any problems, but it does take a little while to load.
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TwistedCrank
climber
Released into general population, Idaho
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Feb 24, 2014 - 01:43pm PT
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That's not a sum. It's an integral.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Feb 24, 2014 - 02:14pm PT
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TJI, best threads, man, best threads.
This photo is great, the shadows and the body language are awesome
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Feb 24, 2014 - 02:38pm PT
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Thanks for the look Justin,
Great shots!
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Feb 24, 2014 - 02:41pm PT
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so awesome. you got a slice of paradise out there.
I gotta visit this season.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Author's Reply
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Feb 25, 2014 - 01:11pm PT
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Thanks Twisted.
le_bruce, thanks man. I love the shadows on that one too. This one below has better color, but I think I like the shadows more.
First attempt. Pic by Grahm.
WML, break that pad in good, not too good though. Have fun and thanks.
Josh, I'm sure you recognize some of those stones. Thanks.
Splitclimber, I am lucky to live where I do and am grateful for it. Thanks, hope you get out here soon.
Phyl, thanks and glad you enjoyed it. Hopefully your shoulder is doing good.
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Feb 25, 2014 - 01:01am PT
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Super! I never even boulder and I loved this TR.
Thanks, Justin
Phyl
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Feb 27, 2014 - 12:49am PT
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I LOVE bouldering.
A rope and harness just gets in the way!
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Captain...or Skully
climber
Boise, ID
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Feb 27, 2014 - 12:59am PT
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I can dig it. Pics are the Fab, man.
Oh yeah.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Author's Reply
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Feb 27, 2014 - 10:27am PT
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Slater, thanks for all your pics in this TR.
Thanks, Captain or Skully.
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craig morris
Trad climber
la
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Feb 27, 2014 - 10:45am PT
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Great pics, thanks
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Author's Reply
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Feb 27, 2014 - 05:32pm PT
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Thanks, Craig and DMT.
DMT, yeah you should! How long has it been?
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Leggs
Sport climber
Made in California, living in The Old Pueblo
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Feb 28, 2014 - 02:48pm PT
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Awesome Content BUMP
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Feb 28, 2014 - 05:01pm PT
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Wow that is beautiful. Would really like to check out shut eye sometime. Now even more reasons.
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westhegimp
Social climber
granada hills
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Feb 28, 2014 - 07:14pm PT
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Awesome pics. Thanks I needed that.
Wes
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Author's Reply
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Feb 28, 2014 - 07:37pm PT
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Thanks for the bump Leggs.
Mike, thanks, I have the same feeling about the Black Hills and the Needles. Eventually.
Thank you westhegimp.
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tollsar
climber
who me?
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Dude!!! awesome pics! glad you posted, brings back some of the best memories! Hey who is the guy with the long hair? what a dirt bag, I heard he is super weak!
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Author's Reply
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Mar 1, 2014 - 06:23pm PT
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That's hardcore McLemoore, tollsar. He'd probably beat your ass and eat your baby if he heard you talking like that. The guy is a hothead and I heard he only runs now and cries the whole time cause he feels bad that his footsteps are slowly killing the earth. That's how hardcore he is.
Sh#t yeah Mac! So many good days in these pics. I'll hit you up soon, Tollhouse or squaw in the near future.
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Fletcher
Boulder climber
Institute of Better Bouldering-DirtbagDad Division
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Wow, thanks! This may just be one of my all time favorite mondo TRs! I just got back from 2 days of swim meets in the rain (not necessarily a bad thing!) and this was perfect for some down time. Nice photography... you really captured the spirit of bouldering. Good stuff.
I'm looking forward to exploring the area later this year.
Cheers,
Eric
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Author's Reply
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Mar 2, 2014 - 10:29pm PT
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Thanks Eric, stoked you are going to explore the area soon.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Dude what a rad thread. Seriously. This photo killed me.
Thanks for a great write up that I don't remember seeing till now.
You interested in showing me an Macronut around up at The Gorge sometime this winter?
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moacman
Trad climber
Montuckyian Via Canada Eh!
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Can't believe I missed this....Really like the hand prints and the happy puppy...Cool boulders too...Thanx for sharing.......
Stevo
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Ed H
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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Great report - 5 star!
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Author's Reply
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Dec 2, 2014 - 10:07pm PT
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Thanks Ed H, el The Larry, and stevo.
Micro, first thanks for the bump and second yeah I'd be down. I have back issues so don't really boulder anymore, but it would be awesome to go down there and do some stuff.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Great TR, always worth to be repeated...
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pc
climber
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Excellent!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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One of the BEST reports in a LONG while! Thank you so much for putting so many photos in this thing! That is hard work man! Can't believe you had time for it with all the fun things I am sure you would rather do!
SEND ON!
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Jingy
climber
Random Nobody
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Squse my language....
HOLY F*#KING SH#T!!!!
Amazingly, in my current sedentary state, I suddenly feel as if I have been exploring today!!!
WOW!
Like the first commenter up thread...
JUST WOW!!
So many good looking lines and features in those photos.
Thank you for your help in getting me there with those shots. I can only write, but I feel it is not enough to let you know what they do for my psyche.
Cheers all,
(way late to the party.... the story of my life)
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Author's Reply
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Dec 3, 2014 - 05:55pm PT
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Marlow, many thanks again.
Pc thank you as well
Vitaliy, that is a great compliment coming from one of the best TR writers here, thanks man.
Jingy, haha glad I could send you on your virtual exploring. Thank you.
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Buck Wilde
Boulder climber
Oregon
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(not the dude)
ha!
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Sick sick sick.
Love these photos.
Dig your style Justin, and your taste in rock.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Author's Reply
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Dec 3, 2014 - 07:23pm PT
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Buck, if it were the dude that would just be wrong. Cause that's my brother:)
Jefe, likewise man! Thanks.
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