Cliff Notes:

5 days in Joshua Tree. Lovely weather. Lots of incident-free moderate climbing up to 5.8. Psyched to go again.

Intro:

My resolution for this year was to take a week off every month to go climbing. Part of the reason is to prepare for tackling El Cap by the end of the season with my friend Shaun (I haven't forgotten!) and part of it is simply to allow my wife and I to get out and enjoy life, nature and our new-found hobby of climbing as often as possible.

Having started climbing in a gym just over a year ago and outside* about 9 months ago, we're both very new and thus exceedingly cautious. Painfully aware of just how much we both don't know, my maxim remains: "the leader must not fall". I realize that the day will come, but for now I climb as if my life (and my wife!) depended on it.

A final note before I get on to the trip report:

We began the trip by driving from SF to LA where we met up with my sister-in-law and mother-in-law who were in Narita Airport waiting for their flight to LA when the earthquake hit. My wife's family lives in Sendai, the portion of Japan hit hardest by the tsunami. Luckily, all our family survived (though an uncle's house did not), but the events in Japan dominated the days leading up to our desert sojourn. I'd also encourage all of you to donate whatever you can to the relief efforts. While we enjoy the luxuries of climbing (or worse, pointless political debate on what are ostensibly climbing forums), others are struggling to rebuild their shattered lives and homes. Spare a moment's thought for them.

Monday:

After breakfast with the family, we made the drive out to Joshua Tree stopping only for gas and supplies. It was our first visit to the area and we were suitably awed by the surroundings. My wife, a lover of the desert climate, was especially pleased...even more so when she experienced Joshua Tree approaches. For a woman who considers Glacier Point Apron a long hike, the short flat, dry and insect-free approaches of Joshua Tree are like unto heaven.

We arrived at Hidden Valley to an ostensibly full campground. During a loop of the sites, we saw a fellow about our age (late-30's? He'll probably read this, so I shall be cautious and kind in my estimating of age) with a single car and tent. We asked if he'd be willing to share and although he had a friend who might show up later, he welcomed us to join him.

Although someone else later offered us the campsite they were departing from, we ended up spending the whole week with James. Out from Tennessee for his guide accreditation, we had a wonderful time passing the evenings around the campfire with him and his mates. He also showed great patience and even enthusiasm for our sometimes painfully newbie questions and we could not have wished for better company. Hopefully we'll enjoy his company again in Tuolumne or even Tennessee!

Our only climb of the first day was the pleasant and not too difficult Toe Jam (5.7).

Located perhaps 150' from where we parked our car, it provided no real difficulty and did a great deal to gird our confidence in our ability to tackle moderate JTree routes. We hopped on it before even unpacking our car and from the top of the climb, belaying my wife up, I could even watch as someone pitched their tent in the spot we had planned on. No worries, we still found a nice location.





Tuesday:

The day allotted for Noe's first trad lead! We had planned on hitting up The Bong (5.4), but it was already crowded when we arrived. After some more discussion and practice placing gear, we decided that she would tackle Beginner's Two around the corner instead. Ostensibly 5.2, it felt more like 5.5PG. her lead was proud and clean, marred only by an early crack in confidence which left her calling down to me "why did you do this to me?". Happily, her emotional fortitude regrouped and she finished it off in style.


In retrospect, it was a terrible choice for a first lead. Part of the adventure and she handled it with good graces. A great job on her first lead and smiles all around. Upon reading that mountainproject generally rates it as 5.5 or even 5.6, she felt even better!


We took the "4th class" decent to the left of The Bong and it was full value. No real trouble, but you wouldn't want to fall. This seems a common theme in Joshua Tree descents, but luckily we both enjoy them as part of the adventure.



Mike's Books (5.6)

Upon arriving at the climb and racking up, we realized I had forgotten my shoes. Running back to our tent (did I mention how much we love the close proximity of climbs and camp), I couldn't find my shoes, but luckily had an old pair of mythos with only a small hole in the toe.


The climb was enjoyable and easy, more memorable for the nice views than the climbing. The only exciting bit was the 5.4 slab at the top. You pull a small waist height "roof" and climb up easy slab past one bolt to the anchor. This was my first time leading any real slab and the bolt appeared just where you'd want it. Pull the roof with your gear below you was also just interesting enough without being too scary (since the move isn't really hard).





Wednesday:

The morning saw us head in to town for new shoes (They had no mythos in my size so I splurged on some TC Pros which are total overkill for our level but feel wonderful to climb in) and breakfast at the fabulous Ricochet Cafe. We had maple bacon waffles, which were delicious. It's a great little place with fantastic food and hit or miss service (always friendly, often slow). Go when you're not in a hurry and enjoy some good eats.


Fote Hog (5.6)

The traverse near the beginning is thought provoking due to paucity of good gear placements, but it's not technically difficult. We also found it hard to believe that the chickenheads roof was only 5.6. Even with the huge handholds, can you really have a 5.6 where your feet cut loose? Is this only a problem for us vertically challenged climbers? Or perhaps we both just failed to find the feet?



We abandoned an old number 2 camalot with a broken trigger wire just above the belay when Noe couldn't cajole it from it's resting place, but otherwise enjoyed the climb and the topout on The Sentinel, which offers fantastic views of The Real Hidden Valley.




After a break for lunch, we wanted to hop on something else, but I was feeling a bit too tired to hop on anything too intimidating. We decided to tackle something moderate:

Jumping Jehoesphat (5.7)

This climb really wasn't much fun. The crack widened at the top and felt insecure and the rap off (off slings) seemed badly placed. Also, the rope fell in a crack when I rapped...a royal PITA. Maybe I was just tired, but this route didn't do it for me.


Luckily the Thin Wall crowds had dissipated by this point (I don't care for the gym atmosphere outside) so we hopped on an easy climb.

Ain't Nothing but a J-Tree Thing (5.6)

Good fun and good practice plugging gear on vertical rock.


That evening, we headed in to town for thai food and a shower. I also bought some new pants to replace my old thrashed ones. I have a tradition of climbing in women's high fashion stretch jeans from used clothing stores (never pay more than $10). My old ones were Gloria Vanderbilt with a gold swan and the new ones have the kanji "Fuku" (Luck) on the butt. Goodness know we need it with my leading!


Thursday:

The Swift (5.7)

We headed over to Lost Horse in the morning and as of 10 AM were the only car in the parking lot. No one else even showed up until we were starting the second pitch.



A very enjoyable if easy climb, though I did indeed find the crux move implausible. Luckily, just as I reached it, the taco's very own sethsquatch76 (aka Seth aka Cliffhanger Guides) came up below us guiding someone and handily pointed out the spot to traverse (hint: it's right around the number 3 camalot placement between your legs).




The descent was fun fourth class and by the time we were back at the base, the wall was packed. also apologies for our parking job at the turn out...we parked at an angle taking up two spots since it was empty when wee arrived., We should have known it would be packed a few hours later.

Lunch was enjoyed at the Real Hidden Valley entrance and we headed in to try out Sail Away (5.8) which James had been recommending for us. It was the first time (other than The Bong) that we saw anyone else on a climb. Being slightly tired, I didn't mind waiting for the nice Alaskan climbers to finish up before we tackled it.



As this was our first real mandatory jamming climb, I was slightly intimidated - especially by the vertical crux near the top where you pretty much have to get a foot in the crack. Happily, it flew by and just before I reached the spot where you stem out and swing left I was thinking "man, I'm getting tired and the crux must be coming up soon"...but I was already past it!


The view of the sunset from the top was worth appreciating, which is just as well since Noe was stuck up top for a while as I rapped down and cleaned a cam that was jammed too far in the crack which she couldn't retrieve during her ascent. I think I scraped my hands up more extracting that cam than during any climbing all week.




Amusing anecdote of the evening:

One of the lads taking the guide certification course was a young dreadlocked fellow of 21. Sweet and boyish and surely a capable climber, he was nevertheless quite naive when it came to worldly matters. When one of the other attendees mentioned needing to call his girlfriend, the young fellow exclaimed "woah..you have a girlfriend!". His amazement at learning that one of them drove a prius was equally extreme. Imagine his excitement when he learned that one of them actually owned a house! It was endearing, but I'm not sure I'd really want to be guided by someone quite so young.

Friday:

Our last day of climbing. We packed up in the early AM, said our goodbyes to James and headed over to Saddle Rock.

Walk on the Wild Side (5.8)

This climb solidified Noe's love of Joshua Tree. The longest approach we did all week, it still wasn't more than 20 minutes with no elevation gain or mosquitoes. It probably helped that we were carrying just one rope and 12 or so quickdraws, too.


At the base, I was a bit intimidated...boy those bolts look far apart! Once we got going, though, it was an absolute joy. In many ways, I think slab may be my favourite kind of climbing: an emphasis on balance and weight-shifting which my years of ballet and circus stand me in good stead for. Ask me again after I take my first lead fall on it, though. Maybe I'm still too stupid to be as scared as I should be.


The crux was thoughtful but still pretty mellow and the rest of the climb felt like 5.6 at most (and the slightly run-out top more like 5.4). The best part was, you could always see the next bolt which did much to settle my mind and let me simply focus on reaching it.





Near the top, the wind kicked up and we were ready to get down. Sadly, in our windswept rush we forgot to take any photos from the big top-out ledge which sports a glorious view. The walkoff was involved and interesting (including the fun chimney downclimb and one short rap), but went smoothly.



Soon enough we were back in the car and headed out of the park. One last meal at the Ricochet Cafe and back to the real world. To add to the flood of tsunami-driven stress, I received a text message from my brother as we drove back to San Francisco informing me that my aunt had died of lung cancer. Welcome back to reality, indeed. Playtime was over.



Summary:

It was a wonderful trip and we can understand why everyone raves about Joshua Tree. Honestly, I still prefer longer multi-pitch climbing; but the short approaches, glorious weather and plethora of routes at all levels are hard to beat. The solid climbing did a lot to help our confidence and I'm happy to have led everything cleanly and in relatively good style.

Noe and I both know how much we still have to learn. A self-rescue course is definitely in our futures and we're still painfully slow (leading and transitions, especially). Nevertheless, this was a solid and enjoyable effort. Everything one could ask for out of a week in the desert.

Even better, we're going back again in just two weeks!

Thanks for reading and I hope you enjoyed the report. Do feel free to offer any advice you might have (yeah yeah, we're gonna die) and say hello if you see us in the valley or JTree or who knows where else climbing this year.

* You can find an account of my first trad climbing weekend with Shaun in Tuolumne here on supertopo.