Trip Report
The Globe - FA of The Standing Ovation (1000 ft - III 5.10)
Wednesday December 9, 2015 6:09pm
While climbing different formations in the area, I noticed two attractive domes on the same ridge-line with The Prism and the Saber Ridge. Variety of sources revealed that the local climbers dubbed these as Choss Boobs. However, no one knew if one or the other had actually been climbed. Likely due to both of the faces being steep, with multiple intimidating roofs cutting across and the rock which seemed funky. The bigger of the two was especially impressive and at least over a thousand feet tall. The Prism and the Saber Ridge, both of which I climbed earlier in the summer, are composed of solid white granite with awesome features. The rock on the domes looked unlike anything I have seen in the High Sierra, with much of it composed of different colors.

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The Globe is the bigger of the two. First to climb the other formation...
The Globe is the bigger of the two. First to climb the other formation, gets to name it! :)
Credit: Vitaliy M.
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Nice spot to camp in the Lone Pine canyon


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Base, with the head-wall looming above


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Brian is beat by the sun, but excited about another awesome climb!


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The smaller of the two domes, is not that small!

Both Brian and I were puzzled by the mystery and excited to see what it is like for ourselves. From the High Sierra Trail, we took the Lone Pine cut off and continued towards the Elizabeth Pass. When we were slightly above the domes, we cut below the smaller of the two, on its west side. Up close, both of them still looked steep and complex. After some discussion, we decided to take a direct line up the middle of the bigger formation. Go big or go home. Hopefully both. It was the last day of a week long outing, during which we already climbed five new routes. We were happy with how the trip went and focused on finishing it without an accident. The day went better than we expected, with fun climbing, enough protection to keep things from being very runout and awesome views to all sides. The red rock was covered with awesome features, which allowed us to pull several of the roofs on large jugs. Hero climbing at a very moderate grade. Even though the climbing was never too hard, it was never too easy. Terrain we covered had no sign of previous passage and neither had the summit. Much of the face allows for 'have your own adventure' sort of climbing on good rock.


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Brian starting the second pitch


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Steep! Amazing crimps give way to big orange jugs!


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Brian about to pull the final crux


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But there is still a big roof ahead..that goes at 5.8 JUGS!


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What a great final day of the trip! Back side of the Angel Wings, Hamilton Dome and the towers in the background


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The top!!

While climbing, we did not find a nipple and the rock was the opposite of choss, sooooo we named the formation the Globe instead. This way it could fit in with its neighbor to the east - the Prism. Through the week-long outing we read Shakespeare during the time we did not climb, eat or sleep. Since many of his plays were originally performed in the theater named the Globe, we named the route Standing Ovation (1000 ft - III 5.10), for the wonderful climbing it offered. Even though, we had enough time to attempt the smaller of the two domes, we decided to report it as possibly un-climbed and hope it will attract other climbers to have own adventure in this pristine area. Recent years brought plenty of climbing activity to the walls surrounding the Tamarack lake. Now, the area is rich with established modern gems and much potential for further exploration still exists.

Hope to encourage other guys and girls to get out to different obscure corners of the Sierra and check them out for yourself! There is much to see/climb! :)

http://vividrea1ity.blogspot.com/

  Trip Report Views: 3,053
Vitaliy M.
About the Author
Vitaliy M. is an annoying gym climber from San Francisco.

Comments
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
  Dec 9, 2015 - 06:18pm PT
Nice :)
thebravecowboy

climber
The Good Places
  Dec 9, 2015 - 06:28pm PT
TFPU! stellar work, again!
WBraun

climber
  Dec 9, 2015 - 08:57pm PT
Looks real good.

And not too hard which makes it fun in that remote environment ......

FRUMY

Trad climber
Bishop,CA
  Dec 9, 2015 - 09:01pm PT
TFPU nice
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
  Dec 9, 2015 - 09:19pm PT
What's the approach like Vitaly? How many miles and 1000's of feet?
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Author's Reply  Dec 9, 2015 - 10:06pm PT
And not too hard which makes it fun in that remote environment ......

Yeah, during the last summer I figured I have the most fun while doing FAs of routes no longer than grade IV. Vs are usually difficult physically and leave me mentally drained for a few days till I have enough rest.

Rick, the approach is via the High Sierra Trail. Mostly rolling hills, without too much gain and very scenic. Great trail. About 16 miles, but doesn't feel like it. There is an awesome place about 11 miles in called the Bearpaw meadow. There is a house with all sorts of food, beer, fuel etc you can buy. And there are rooms for rent with prepared food for those who rent. Sweet place. I have not rented a room there, but hung out there every time we hiked through. People who work there are super nice.
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
  Dec 9, 2015 - 11:50pm PT
Sounds like you need to plan on at least a five day trip to get much done. Beautiful stuff though and lots of overlooked plums still to pick.
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
  Dec 10, 2015 - 12:30am PT
Nice! Does that big slab in the back of the last photo have smeary routes on it?
Reeotch

climber
4 Corners Area
  Dec 10, 2015 - 04:58am PT
Super Cool!
TFPU
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
  Dec 10, 2015 - 05:54am PT
:-)
kaholatingtong

Trad climber
The fake McCoy from nevernever land.
  Dec 10, 2015 - 08:43am PT
Another gem! Quite a summer you had V, thanks for sharing! Would love to climb one of these someday...
shylock

Social climber
mb
  Dec 10, 2015 - 09:22am PT
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Dec 10, 2015 - 09:31am PT
Excellent! Excellent! Excellent!

Money! Money! Money!

Another winner! Looks so good!

Well done men!
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Dec 10, 2015 - 10:37am PT
Up close, both of them still looked steep and complex. After some discussion, we decided to take a direct line up the middle of the bigger formation.

Love it, V.

Also love the names chosen.

Oh how I wish I had the time - maybe this coming summer. Looks like absolute paradise.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Author's Reply  Dec 10, 2015 - 10:48am PT
We all have time. Different people have different priorities for their time though, and that's ok.

Interesting comment re IVs vs Vs.

The Emperor and route on the Angel Wings left me pretty beat because both have a LOT of 5.11 pitches. Both are more sustained and harder than something like the West Face of El Cap for example (to me). So much 'non cruiser' climbing is just too much for me to be type 1 fun in the end. In the same time, I like doing hard and long climbs in a day from time to time. Not ALL the time though. Balance is important. And so is rest.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
  Dec 10, 2015 - 10:55am PT
Fantastic....

Keep em coming, thanks for posting this.
NutAgain!

Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
  Dec 10, 2015 - 10:58am PT
The force is strong in this one.
Radish

Trad climber
SeKi, California
  Dec 10, 2015 - 11:01am PT
Nice Job Vitaliy! Another great TR....Great Photos and Great Adventure!
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
  Dec 10, 2015 - 11:58am PT
Rhymes with Italy, You go go rock nut,

Awe-some . . . . as always !! you send the stoke across the great divide - telling tales of a Mountain Chalet ? to lure us, the almost dead, out in to paradise... thanx
Now I need to find those replacement ankles.

I know that what you say below is true,

Author's Reply Dec 10, 2015 - 10:48am PT
We all have time. Different people have different priorities for their time though, and that's ok.
Sadly so is
you know that you're over the hill, when your mind makes a promise that your body can't fill
-
7SacredPools

Trad climber
Ontario, Canada
  Dec 10, 2015 - 03:38pm PT
Nice TR! And what a cool looking route. Amazing that such an obvious formation has never been climbed.
Not many reading Shakespeare that I know of...
NutAgain!

Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
  Dec 10, 2015 - 03:48pm PT
As if all the awesome spots you have stood did not already bring into view a thousand more dreams, here is some good fodder for new plans (whether they are FAs or not, a mind-boggling amount of lesser seen rock):
https://vimeo.com/69642110

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Author's Reply  Dec 10, 2015 - 06:59pm PT
. Amazing that such an obvious formation has never been climbed. 

Maybe it has. Who knows. We didn't see any trace and didn't hear of anyone doing it. But I don't know every climber out there. Maybe someone has a route with 30 bolts just to the side of ours. Who knows...maybe someone can go for other ways to climb up it. And the other one..
mrtropy

Trad climber
Nor Cal
  Dec 10, 2015 - 07:04pm PT
Thanks once again a great TR
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Dec 12, 2015 - 03:12am PT
Living the dream V,
Thank you!
Larry Nelson

Social climber
  May 4, 2016 - 01:00pm PT
Bump for excellent climbing content
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  May 5, 2016 - 08:17am PT
Amazing as always. I know of some gems like that in a range in Northern Wyoming with walls to 1500ft at an elevation over 10,000ft,but it is hard to recruit partners as it is a solid 8-15 miles with 2/3 off trail many times through lots of down fall. The approach has stopped most people but there are some that are putting routes up in there.
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