East Buttress 5.10b

 
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El Capitan


Yosemite Valley, California USA


Trip Report
The East Buttress of El Cap with the little ones
Tuesday October 22, 2013 10:09am
The little ones having a blast in the Valley:

http://www.jimherson.com/climbing/tr/ebec.html

-Jim

top left corner top right corner
Credit: Jim Herson
bottom left corner bottom right corner



  Trip Report Views: 8,496
Jim Herson
About the Author
Jim Herson is a climber from Emerald Hills, CA.

Comments
go-B

climber
  Oct 22, 2013 - 10:15am PT
Two Cool!
Johnny K.

climber
  Oct 22, 2013 - 10:21am PT
Never have two climbers had so much fun on a climb where the climbing was so completely incidental to the fun! Listening to those two little munchkins, and their astonishing yap-a-thon, was hilarious. (Says the guy who gets agitated having his mountain solitude disturbed by anything more than the bare essential of belay grunts.) You just can't find better big wall partners than this

Jim,your TR's are the best. Just pure awesome fun,sucks about the pack again, nonetheless awesome fun. One day those munchkins will be taking you up all the amazing classic routes =D
climbski2

Mountain climber
The Ocean
  Oct 22, 2013 - 10:53am PT
Why do I come away from Herson's TRs feeling completely inferior and daydreaming about moving somewhere warm and flat playing kanasta and shuffleboard?

Not really.. well maybe a little bit.. but mostly I am just wonderstruck and happily in awe.
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
  Oct 22, 2013 - 11:02am PT
Inspiring with a capital 'I'!!!!


Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Oct 22, 2013 - 11:17am PT
Awesome!!
10b4me

Social climber
Lida Junction
  Oct 22, 2013 - 11:23am PT
Why do I come away from Herson's TRs feeling completely inferior

+1
limpingcrab

Gym climber
Minkler, CA
  Oct 22, 2013 - 11:52am PT
I think of your trip reports every time I ask a parent to do something and they say something like "I have kids now so I don't do that anymore, you just don't understand."

Ha!

I hope my little 4 month old learns to love the mountains like your fam.

Thanks for another great TR!
brett

climber
oregon
  Oct 22, 2013 - 11:55am PT
Is she wearing 80's Sportiva Megas?
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
  Oct 22, 2013 - 12:29pm PT
very cool,
and an adventure on a whole different level
squishy

Mountain climber
  Oct 22, 2013 - 12:39pm PT
This is so inspiring, I cannot wait till my daughter is older.
David Plotnikoff

Mountain climber
Emerald Hills, CA
  Oct 22, 2013 - 12:40pm PT
Is she wearing 80's Sportiva Megas?

Yes.
WBraun

climber
  Oct 22, 2013 - 12:45pm PT
Holy sh!t !!!!

Those kids did all that!!

Mind blower!!

Those kids are bad to the bone, badass .....
PAUL SOUZA

Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
  Oct 22, 2013 - 01:37pm PT
Awesome!

As always, Jim delivers! TFPU!
martygarrison

Trad climber
Washington DC
  Oct 22, 2013 - 01:43pm PT
Check the guys on the little girl!
rnevius

Trad climber
The Range of Light
  Oct 22, 2013 - 01:44pm PT
Rad.
snowhazed

Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
  Oct 22, 2013 - 02:16pm PT
wicked!
brotherbbock

climber
So-Cal
  Oct 22, 2013 - 02:44pm PT
Sweet trip report! I cant wait to start doing this type of thing with my boy. Got a while to wait......he's only 3 months right now.
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
  Oct 22, 2013 - 02:48pm PT
Will you adopt me?
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
  Oct 22, 2013 - 02:53pm PT
Ribbet!! :-)
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
  Oct 22, 2013 - 02:54pm PT
Dude, while yer writing is exemplary I must admonish you on yer child-rearing.
These kids clearly have no concept that what they're doing is sposed to
be hard work and taken seriously! ;-)
labrat

Trad climber
Erik O. Auburn, CA
  Oct 22, 2013 - 02:55pm PT
Wow! Not sure what to think other than that....

Keep having fun and be safe out there....
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Oct 22, 2013 - 03:19pm PT
Jim, your TR's are a wonderful asset to this site. Thank you so much for extending my concept of the possible so completely.

John
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
  Oct 22, 2013 - 03:22pm PT
So cool! They are firing!
deuce4

climber
Hobart, Australia
  Oct 22, 2013 - 03:28pm PT
Good stuff, thanks! So you were leading all those with the pack, I gather. What a blast for those kids! Cheers
Macronut

Trad climber
Fresno, Ca
  Oct 22, 2013 - 03:32pm PT
Mind if I farm out one of my seven for a babysitting trip promise they don't talk much...TFPU, it was a great read. Got my 11 year old son for his first multi-pitch climb this fall and can't wait to go again.
Phil_B

Social climber
CHC, en zed
  Oct 22, 2013 - 03:41pm PT
Stuff like this makes the Taco great.

Thanks so much for posting up. Loved it
steveA

Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
  Oct 22, 2013 - 04:16pm PT
Jim,

I was pretty amazed when you posted the TR of climbing the RNWF of HD with your daughter!

Perhaps dropping your pack on the NEB was a blessing since that was a pretty late start, and wading/climbing thru those bushes at the top would suck in the dark. My favorite route however.

I took my son up a 12 pitch-5.10 route in the Wind Rivers when he was 13. Good character building exercise.

Your kids are pretty lucky to have you as a dad.
KP Ariza

climber
SCC
  Oct 22, 2013 - 04:30pm PT
Awesome Jim...you're one hell of a pops!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Oct 22, 2013 - 06:41pm PT
Awesome! I was waiting for this one!
Trusty Rusty

climber
Tahoe Area
  Oct 22, 2013 - 06:52pm PT
So bitchen, thanks for this inspiring TR!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Oct 22, 2013 - 06:57pm PT
Super nice!!!
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
  Oct 22, 2013 - 11:29pm PT
That's awesome.
i'm guessing this was sunday the 29th? We were there on the morning of the 30th and the first party mentioned seeing a guy take 2 kids up the day before.
Dick Erb

climber
June Lake, CA
  Oct 22, 2013 - 08:06pm PT
Jim, your trip reports are the absolute best. I love to see the joy you get from both the climbing and the children.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
  Oct 22, 2013 - 08:36pm PT
Very well done, Herson!

A tandem belay of the both simultaneously?
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
  Oct 22, 2013 - 09:35pm PT
What a great read! the smiles are worth gold but I guess it was a good idea you didn't include a voice dialogue with this.?
Evel

Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
  Oct 22, 2013 - 10:05pm PT
Outstanding!
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
  Oct 22, 2013 - 10:24pm PT
It is theorized that frogs place a pot of cold water and slowly heated to a boil will eventually meet an unpleasant end. You, gentle readers, are the frogs. I've been slowly, imperceptibly ratcheting it up on these pages until now a "I climbed the East Butt of El Cap with two 10 years olds" is met with an anesthetized collective shrug from my formally well adjusted readers. Nevertheless, being "belayed" by two distracted 10 year olds did grab my attention. And yet, it could not have been more fun. The kids rocked it!

A chatty nighttime descent of the East Ledges and we were back at the van and then home a good 6 hrs before the Monday morning school bell rang.


This is f-ing priceless. You made an indelible impression on this kids, and I guarantee you they will NEVER forget that.

Some fools would call you irresponsible for this travel. And the adventure given to the kids.

They will NEVER forget this, and for that I think you are awesome. It's not something any schmuck should try, or should be advertised as safe, but I've heard about you and more experienced climbers should get kids into this. WHEN THEY'RE READY!

These two did well. Especially the East Ledges, NIce!!!

These 2 kids are living on Cloud-9er, and I'm sure you are too, Jim.

Well done!!!
Marshall

climber
bay area
  Oct 22, 2013 - 10:33pm PT

So badass and inspiring!
Bob Harrington

climber
Bishop, California
  Oct 22, 2013 - 10:44pm PT
That is excellent! High standard climbing by any measure. Loved your Crest Jewel report too.
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
  Oct 22, 2013 - 11:37pm PT
If it was the 29th, this is likely a picture of you. Taken from the top of the manure pile
Bargainhunter

climber
  Oct 23, 2013 - 01:02am PT
Jim Herson is my hero
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
  Oct 24, 2013 - 03:40am PT
Blows me away
NutAgain!

Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
  Oct 24, 2013 - 11:52am PT
Full of wonder as usual. TFPU!
couchmaster

climber
  Oct 25, 2013 - 11:10am PT
Wow....awesome and inspiring story(s) with your lil pups. Thanks for sharing! Wait, awesome and inspiring were words which were already used. Hmm, we'll - it fits. Anything worth saying once is worth saying again I suppose:-)

The best part about going to a climbing gym anywhere these days seems to the lil ones who are always so stoked, upbeat and happy (and usually climbing so darned good too). Nice to see some of them getting out.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
  Oct 25, 2013 - 11:40am PT
Got me where I live.

"Serenity, now!"--Mr. Costanza

And don't bother saving anything for later--they'll have done 'em all by the time they're out of HS!
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
  Oct 29, 2013 - 10:15am PT
Leave no classic route in Yosemite unclimbed!
TripCheq

Mountain climber
Pennsylvania
  Oct 29, 2013 - 12:30pm PT
Wow, for a second there, I thought this was a TR about 2 10 year olds who climbed more cool stuff in Yosemite than I ever did in my life. I almost sold all of my gear on ebay!

Oh, wait. It IS about 2 10 year olds! I am so selling my kit...

Seriously, what an amazing TR! Are you looking to adopt? I can cook...
L

climber
Just livin' the dream
  Oct 29, 2013 - 12:53pm PT
Totally cool TR!
What an awesome dad you are!
Seamstress

Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
  Oct 29, 2013 - 12:57pm PT
Pretty soon they will be your rope gun!!
Charlie D.

Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
  Oct 29, 2013 - 01:18pm PT
So great to see your kids out there enjoying the mountains, as opposed the many stuck at home in front of a computer playing games. Great work dad!!! Of course the climging at that age is mind-blowing, looks like nothing but some good family fun for you all in the years ahead.
localdan

Trad climber
Visalia, CA
  Oct 30, 2013 - 01:05am PT
This is amazing! Thanks for inspiring all the dads out here :)
JohnnyG

climber
  Oct 30, 2013 - 11:22am PT
"It is feircely debated among linguists who need to get out more, as to whether the Yupik Eskimos or the Sami Scandinavians have more words to describe snow. Either way, it points to the utter inadequacy of verbal communication. For nothing matches the expansive descriptive powers of non-verbal communication among the oldest of married couples."

hahahaha
Squirrell

Boulder climber
N. Cali under the bridge
  Nov 6, 2013 - 01:13pm PT
So awesome!
David Plotnikoff

Mountain climber
Emerald Hills, CA
  Nov 18, 2013 - 04:00am PT
I smile every time I look at these trip reports with the amazing kids. They apparently don't know (or don't care) that they're supposed to be doing (ahem) *serious* climbing. Their smiles -- climbing for the pure joy of it -- say it all.

Way to go, SuperJim.

DP
10b4me

Social climber
Lida Junction
  Mar 13, 2014 - 06:49pm PT
bump
BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
  Mar 13, 2014 - 10:33pm PT
I don't know any ten year olds with this kind of experience. You are a pretty cool dad.
Go
El Capitan - East Buttress 5.10b - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
East Buttress with top of The Nose on left.
Photo: Mark Kroese
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Freerider, 5.12D
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The Salathé Wall ascends the most natural line up El Cap.
El Capitan - Zodiac A2 5.7 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
Zodiac, A2 5.7
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1800' of fantastic climbing.
El Capitan - Salathe Wall 5.13b or 5.9 C2 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
Salathe Wall, 5.13b or 5.9 C2
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The Salathé Wall ascends the most natural line up El Cap.
El Capitan - Lurking Fear C2F 5.7 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
Lurking Fear, C2F 5.7
El Capitan
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Lurking Fear is route number 1.
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