Trip Report
The DEER Route - A Yosemite Reverse Spelunking Adventure
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Friday November 30, 2012 2:07pm
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If you want a report with pictures, visit my website, since SuperTopo has deprecated displaying photos from off-site.
November 23, 2012
At long last Nutjob and I were able to meet up to check out this obscure mystery route. Some have dubbed it the DEER (Reed spelled backwards?), and it was a fun caving adventure. It was good that we weren't too bloated from Thanksgiving, as we needed every inch of space we could spare to fit through the tight passageways.
I spent an hour picking my way around on lead before finding the squeeze tunnel through, and I battled that crux for another 2 hours before giving up, 15 ft short of the top. Nutjob went up next and in an hour managed to follow my lead and navigate the final squeeze crux! I had the joy of climbing the route a second time to follow.
![](http://lh3.ggpht.com/-SoUvBwPAXVk/ULGmQcNsyHI/AAAAAAABd3c/OWKWV-tkqbg/s800/2011-12-11%252520-%25252031%252520-%252520Reeds%252520Pinnacle%252520Area%252520Closer%252520-%252520DEER%252520Route%252520Annotation%252520-%252520Our%252520Paths.jpg") Visit on ggpht.com
Our climbing pathways. When I climbed up the second time I followed the Reed's Direct Crack for its entirety.
![](http://lh3.ggpht.com/-4j7KQbgGzgU/ULGmRcnkFQI/AAAAAAABd3k/M9SFMIo8wLc/s800/2011-12-11%252520-%25252031%252520-%252520Reeds%252520Pinnacle%252520Area%252520Closer%252520-%252520DEER%252520Route%252520Annotation.jpg") Visit on ggpht.com
Roughly the two best ways one can climb the DEER Route.
A Sunny Start
It was a warm, clear, sunny day at Reed Pinnacle. Strangely, we were the only ones there. For the entire day we never saw signs of anyone else climbing around Reed's Direct. Perhaps the crowds were kept at bay by the post-Thanksgiving food feast recovery?
![](http://lh4.ggpht.com/-crOj9-MLGV4/ULGmTIyOdOI/AAAAAAABd3s/FwZht1wVN70/s800/2012-11-23%252520-%25252001%252520-%252520Scott%252520Leading%252520P1%252520of%252520Reed%252520Direct.jpg") Visit on ggpht.com
Nutjob leading P1 of Reed's Direct. (5.9)
![](http://lh4.ggpht.com/-CjgboJtvGjE/ULGmVx9HRsI/AAAAAAABd38/WumkOzd_rQA/s800/2012-11-23%252520-%25252002a%252520-%252520Following%252520P1%252520of%252520Reed%252520Direct%252520-%252520by%252520Scott%252520Keagy.jpg") Visit on ggpht.com
Following P1 of Reed's Direct (5.9). (by Nutjob)
We made short work up the first pitch of Reed's Direct and the prepared for the unknown. We had no idea what sort of gear (if any) the route would take, so we brought a lot with an emphasis on the wide stuff (it turned out the wide gear was completely useless).
![](http://lh5.ggpht.com/-KNM2pbH1ehA/ULGmZzGkWaI/AAAAAAABd4c/TwErY71hceM/s800/2012-11-23%252520-%25252002e%252520-%252520Racked%252520and%252520Ready%252520for%252520DEER%252520-%252520by%252520Scott%252520Keagy.jpg") Visit on ggpht.com
Racked up and ready to go for the DEER. (by Nutjob)
![](http://lh3.ggpht.com/-LGfxN-hCef0/ULGmazJeFmI/AAAAAAABd4k/xJ7xU2s6IVY/s800/2012-11-23%252520-%25252002f%252520-%252520Looking%252520at%252520the%252520start%252520of%252520DEER%252520-%252520by%252520Scott%252520Keagy.jpg") Visit on ggpht.com
What lies beyond? (by Nutjob)
Entering the REED
![](http://lh4.ggpht.com/-rFNht0YTPmk/ULGmdo9sW1I/AAAAAAABd40/ORl0Tj578Po/s800/2012-11-23%252520-%25252002h%252520-%252520Starting%252520Into%252520DEER%252520-%252520by%252520Scott%252520Keagy.jpg") Visit on ggpht.com
Venturing forth. (by Nutjob)
We weren't sure where to go first, so we decided to go far left directly beneath where we'd expect to tunnel out, and chimney up from there. Also, I was curious to see if you could actually tunnel through and out the left side.
![](http://lh4.ggpht.com/-G3PDPe-PrnQ/ULGmeP42ZlI/AAAAAAABd48/_aP2JBhkZp4/s800/2012-11-23%252520-%25252002i%252520-%252520Starting%252520Into%252520DEER%252520Heading%252520Left-%252520by%252520Scott%252520Keagy.jpg") Visit on ggpht.com
Exploring leftwards. (by Nutjob)
![](http://lh3.ggpht.com/-9GIZTE0vGSQ/ULGmgplP-UI/AAAAAAABd5M/gO3TrdZyZns/s800/2012-11-23%252520-%25252003a%252520-%252520Starting%252520Into%252520DEER%252520Heading%252520Left-%252520by%252520Scott%252520Keagy.jpg") Visit on ggpht.com
Exploring leftwards. Getting dark enough for the headlamp. (by Nutjob)
![](http://lh6.ggpht.com/-YIZECg4ZNkc/ULGmhaVjShI/AAAAAAABd5U/zXjQvlRKeUQ/s800/2012-11-23%252520-%25252003b%252520-%252520Starting%252520Into%252520DEER%252520Heading%252520Left-%252520by%252520Scott%252520Keagy.jpg") Visit on ggpht.com
Exploring leftwards, facing the easier way. (by Nutjob)
![](http://lh6.ggpht.com/-uw40qAmYCP4/ULGmil86p-I/AAAAAAABd5c/cXGn4I31gLE/s800/2012-11-23%252520-%25252003c%252520-%252520Starting%252520Into%252520DEER%252520Heading%252520Left-%252520by%252520Scott%252520Keagy.jpg") Visit on ggpht.com
Exploring leftwards, facing the easier way and looking up for where to go. (by Nutjob)
It was starting to get dark and spooky in here, so I broke out the secret weapons . . .
![](http://lh5.ggpht.com/-Aje9kiM8ID4/ULGmjW9S6II/AAAAAAABd5k/rBTH2hUnzD0/s800/2012-11-23%252520-%25252004%252520-%252520Glow%252520Sticks.jpg") Visit on ggpht.com
Glow sticks make any tunneling adventure more festive.
![](http://lh6.ggpht.com/-gf7-9msysE8/ULGmj_mRikI/AAAAAAABd5s/_nSXNfORp0w/s800/2012-11-23%252520-%25252005%252520-%252520Looking%252520out%252520of%252520P1%252520of%252520Reeds%252520Left.jpg") Visit on ggpht.com
Exploring leftwards, looking out P1 of Reed's Left (5.8 chimney).
You can definitely traverse out the left side.
![](http://lh4.ggpht.com/-6_SGOA1naMk/ULGmkvycs0I/AAAAAAABd50/vmKXNmiFlOQ/s800/2012-11-23%252520-%25252006%252520-%252520Scott%252520at%252520the%252520P2%252520belay.jpg") Visit on ggpht.com
Exploring leftwards, looking back at Nutjob before launching off.
![](http://lh3.ggpht.com/-cvO61ce9f2s/ULGml6ve9qI/AAAAAAABd6E/SN6NJ415nsk/s800/2012-11-23%252520-%25252006aa%252520-%252520Going%252520Deeper%252520Into%252520DEER%252520Heading%252520Left-%252520by%252520Scott%252520Keagy.jpg") Visit on ggpht.com
Chimneying up. (by Nutjob)
![](http://lh3.ggpht.com/-T8Uli79q9ow/ULGmm9OS3KI/AAAAAAABd6M/mArv5FNve8s/s800/2012-11-23%252520-%25252006b%252520-%252520Going%252520Deeper%252520Into%252520DEER%252520Heading%252520Left-%252520by%252520Scott%252520Keagy.jpg") Visit on ggpht.com
Chimneying up. (by Nutjob)
![](https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-SZL3k-HtZVg/ULhx8TO_HzI/AAAAAAABjP4/0eF423iGJwE/s800/2012-11-23%2520-%252006a%2520-%2520Going%2520Deeper%2520Into%2520DEER%2520Heading%2520Left-%2520by%2520Scott%2520Keagy%2520-%2520sequence.jpg") Visit on googleusercontent.com
Chimneying up. (by Nutjob)
As I chimneyed straight up, there appeared to be no pro this way until I reached a roof above, and I couldn't see any way to go beyond the rood, so I decided to make a long traverse back to the backside of P2 of Reed's Direct to plug some pro in the crack and traverse along the underside of where the flake pinches off into chockstones.
![](http://lh4.ggpht.com/-FBVXb_OPpIg/ULGmqGqmbwI/AAAAAAABd6s/nx8fScXJEc0/s800/2012-11-23%252520-%25252007%252520-%252520Looking%252520Towards%252520Reed%252520Direct%252520Crack.jpg") Visit on ggpht.com
Looking over to the light from P2 of Reed's Direct crack.
![](http://lh4.ggpht.com/-1zDCAnGVtro/ULGmq4L7vqI/AAAAAAABd60/4AOQnTyxTqc/s800/2012-11-23%252520-%25252007a%252520-%252520Looking%252520Up%252520Reed%252520Direct%252520Crack%252520-%252520by%252520Scott%252520Keagy.jpg") Visit on ggpht.com
Looking up along the light from P2 of Reed's Direct crack. (by Nutjob)
![](http://lh5.ggpht.com/-BCGF8pQB_WU/ULGmr_gMp3I/AAAAAAABd68/uXZlJG-SUyY/s800/2012-11-23%252520-%25252007b%252520-%252520Traversing%252520to%252520Reed%252520Direct%252520Crack%252520-%252520by%252520Scott%252520Keagy.jpg") Visit on ggpht.com
I'm traversing up and over a long ways back to the Reed's Direct crack to try that line with pro. So much sideways chimneying . . . (by Nutjob)
![](http://lh6.ggpht.com/-XNkj0cf0zqE/ULGmsYf3Q3I/AAAAAAABd7E/d9UaPX0XECw/s800/2012-11-23%252520-%25252008%252520-%252520First%252520Glow%252520Stick.jpg") Visit on ggpht.com
Glow stick on first pro.
![](http://lh3.ggpht.com/-9W4ShNhNoYo/ULGmukQLX3I/AAAAAAABd7c/Y_X6iBaNHDI/s800/2012-11-23%252520-%25252009b%252520-%252520At%252520first%252520pro%252520-%252520by%252520Scott%252520Keagy.jpg") Visit on ggpht.com
Looking at rope trailing up behind P2 of Reed's Direct where I placed my first piece of pro. You could sew this up by climbing straight up behind the crack. (by Nutjob)
![](http://lh5.ggpht.com/-WDaXjWI4bb8/ULGmvj5RHAI/AAAAAAABd7k/mAhEl_FojHA/s800/2012-11-23%252520-%25252009c%252520-%252520Wombat%252520in%252520His%252520Natural%252520Habitat%252520-%252520by%252520Scott%252520Keagy.jpg") Visit on ggpht.com
A PellucidWombat seen in its natural habitat. (by Nutjob)
![](http://lh4.ggpht.com/-ByRdKw-_Ka8/ULGmwAlWsrI/AAAAAAABd7s/Pu9GON-vhPk/s800/2012-11-23%252520-%25252010%252520-%252520Midway%252520Through%252520Traverse.jpg") Visit on ggpht.com
Looking back halfway through the traverse before the first squeeze passage.
![](http://lh6.ggpht.com/-_GHXKZQNDAs/ULGmxZq_glI/AAAAAAABd78/gB8_lPKnJM8/s800/2012-11-23%252520-%25252011a%252520-%252520Chockstone%252520Roof%252520Traverse%252520-%252520by%252520Scott%252520Keagy.jpg") Visit on ggpht.com
Chockstone traverse from P2 of Reed's Direct to the squeeze passage. (by Nutjob)
![](http://lh4.ggpht.com/-i1L7ts9fOlE/ULGmyt6gNnI/AAAAAAABd8M/ktoRzcSitp0/s800/2012-11-23%252520-%25252011b%252520-%252520Chockstone%252520Roof%252520Traverse%252520-%252520by%252520Scott%252520Keagy.jpg") Visit on ggpht.com
Chockstone traverse from P2 of Reed's Direct to the squeeze passage. (by Nutjob)
![](http://lh3.ggpht.com/-11IrmyMRXzk/ULGmwnBHGyI/AAAAAAABd70/ImwSe38Bumo/s800/2012-11-23%252520-%25252011%252520-%252520Looking%252520back%252520on%252520Traverse%252520Before%252520First%252520Squeeze.jpg") Visit on ggpht.com
Looking back at the end of the traverse before the first squeeze passage. This is the last place I bothered with pro.
![](http://lh3.ggpht.com/-X-uNSkHLP6Q/ULGmzMIl9BI/AAAAAAABd8U/Bb4geT-TOdU/s800/2012-11-23%252520-%25252011bb%252520-%252520Chockstone%252520Roof%252520Traverse%252520-%252520by%252520Scott%252520Keagy.jpg") Visit on ggpht.com
The chimney is a little tighter up here than the start, but still pretty roomy. (by Nutjob)
The Squeeze Passage
I traversed along beneath the chockstones, plugging in two pieces as I went. Eventually I saw an opening that I could barely climb up and sideways into.
![](http://lh4.ggpht.com/-9vvdMhH2yp4/ULGm0MeuBSI/AAAAAAABd8c/wquLwhT1DRk/s800/2012-11-23%252520-%25252012%252520-%252520Moving%252520Up%252520Into%252520First%252520Squeeze.jpg") Visit on ggpht.com
Last view of the wide chimney before entering the first squeeze passage.
I couldn't breath deeply, but with some hard sideways shuffling movements and a little foot stacking and I was able to pop through the first constriction and into a little pod.
![](http://lh6.ggpht.com/-eN2mDDpRpYs/ULGm09zFA3I/AAAAAAABd8k/XyzvDpx9Q1k/s800/2012-11-23%252520-%25252013%252520-%252520Starting%252520Up%252520First%252520Squeeze.jpg") Visit on ggpht.com
Inside the first squeeze passage-traverse.
![](http://lh6.ggpht.com/-u-2DsMj7L34/ULGm1EMA4gI/AAAAAAABd8s/vRXinnneBXc/s800/2012-11-23%252520-%25252014%252520-%252520Mr%252520Reed.jpg") Visit on ggpht.com
The ghost of 'ol Mr. Reed haunts this route. That or I've been in here for too long.
As I climbed higher, my gear and helmet became a problem, so I ditched everything except my headlamp onto a trailing line. For most of the passage I could barely turn my head, even without the helmet on, so things began to feel a tad claustrophobic. At least I hadn't seen any spiders yet.
![](http://lh6.ggpht.com/-6HoNIJA79bo/ULGm17clN1I/AAAAAAABd80/fnM2s_L8S4Q/s800/2012-11-23%252520-%25252015%252520-%252520Removing%252520the%252520Helmet.jpg") Visit on ggpht.com
Taking off the helmet to fit better.
I wriggled up a few more tight sections into slightly larger pods, zig-zagging, and at last I could see daylight from above, and blue sky!
![](http://lh6.ggpht.com/-eABwdvGjXlA/ULGm2ZYbAsI/AAAAAAABd88/IPWLrfCg6j4/s800/2012-11-23%252520-%25252016%252520-%252520Final%252520Squeeze%252520Crux.jpg") Visit on ggpht.com
View of the end. Alas I could not find a way to fit through. I spent close to 2 hours in this tight passage looking for a way through.
I worked for a long time, grid searching, rotating, but I couldn't find a way through. It was a tough balance, to work so hard, which makes you want to breath hard, but the rock restricts any deep and heavy breathing, leaving you seriously out of breath. It would be easy to panic as you get stuck and attempt to hyperventilate, which you can't, which would make the feeling of needing to do it even worse. Stay calm, think, and press on, or if stuck or giving up on a strategy, reverse carefully . . .
![](http://lh6.ggpht.com/-gGbMtuvzpC0/ULGm21vJ8gI/AAAAAAABd9E/UmYttLu1p14/s800/2012-11-23%252520-%25252017%252520-%252520Looking%252520to%252520P2%252520OW%252520of%252520Reeds%252520Left.jpg") Visit on ggpht.com
Looking towards P2 of Reed's Left from where I was attempting to exit. I tried moving this way to some larger pods that I thought I could link up, but it was still barely too tight.
After trying for a long time, I downclimbed through all of the squeeze passages to leave my gear and helmet clipped to my last piece of pro. I could tell there was no way to do such physical, tight climbing with so much bulk and weight dragging behind me. Unfortunately, by the time I made it back up, I was tired and worn out enough that I couldn't make much better progress, and eventually I downclimbed to let Nutjob try it out.
Nutjob Gives it a Try
![](http://lh4.ggpht.com/-9ixtTbok8Qw/ULGm4jdIALI/AAAAAAABd9M/IqdQFR_zkFM/s800/2012-11-23%252520-%25252017a%252520-%252520Future%252520Climbs%252520while%252520on%252520Belay%252520-%252520by%252520Scott%252520Keagy.jpg") Visit on ggpht.com
Nutjob photographing a future climb while waiting on belay. (by Nutjob)
I had no idea 3 hours had passed while I was climbing around in there! Fortunately Nutjob was a very patient belayer.
![](http://lh5.ggpht.com/-7HluMOrGQNk/ULGm5gAJXDI/AAAAAAABd9U/DRQbbVR1-2w/s800/2012-11-23%252520-%25252018%252520-%252520Looking%252520Up%252520From%252520Downclimb.jpg") Visit on ggpht.com
Downclimbing in defeat. I could have lowered, but grinding down the squeeze didn't seem too appealing in comparison.
![](http://lh3.ggpht.com/-F5nG3aRDrzA/ULGm78o2QpI/AAAAAAABd9k/dFKQfDUgO-8/s800/2012-11-23%252520-%25252019a%252520-%252520Defeat%252520-%252520by%252520Scott%252520Keagy.jpg") Visit on ggpht.com
3 hours on lead in the dark chimney, 2 of them spent confined to a space tight enough that I couldn't take full breaths because my diaphragm couldn't expand fully. Nothing spells defeat like this look. Fortunately Nutjob saved the day, figuring out a way through the last 20' of the crux squeeze! (BTW, I think the brown in my teeth and puffiness of the eyes was from dirt I knocked into my face when placing pro in a dirty chockstone) (by Nutjob)
![](http://lh6.ggpht.com/-IRZqqtt4WAc/ULGm82Ol_7I/AAAAAAABd9s/MOOFR-9DXUo/s800/2012-11-23%252520-%25252019aa%252520-%252520Defeat%252520-%252520by%252520Scott%252520Keagy.jpg") Visit on ggpht.com
Downclimbing in defeat. (by Nutjob)
![](http://lh3.ggpht.com/-nZ21EKMs71Q/ULGm9e7cxfI/AAAAAAABd90/mnPcAYwjngY/s800/2012-11-23%252520-%25252019aaa%252520-%252520Defeat%252520-%252520by%252520Scott%252520Keagy.jpg") Visit on ggpht.com
After a run-in with the DEER. (by Nutjob)
![](http://lh3.ggpht.com/-d5iA9x_LtWI/ULGnBinfacI/AAAAAAABd-U/neVwYFLRumk/s800/2012-11-23%252520-%25252019c%252520-%252520Scotts%252520Duct%252520Tape%252520Patch%252520Job%252520-%252520by%252520Scott%252520Keagy.jpg") Visit on ggpht.com
Nutjob's duct tape patch job is ready to go. (by Nutjob)
![](http://lh5.ggpht.com/-yMypACKR6bY/ULGnCSUamxI/AAAAAAABd-c/Z46-4a-S88A/s800/2012-11-23%252520-%25252019d%252520-%252520Tough%252520Man%252520Scott%252520Ready%252520to%252520Try%252520-%252520by%252520Scott%252520Keagy.jpg") Visit on ggpht.com
Nutjob ready to try his hand finding a way through the final squeeze. He eventually did! (by Nutjob)
With the benefit of a top rope from my last piece, Nutjob took a minimum of tiny pieces (as per my recon findings) and set off, straight up to the last piece of pro and the squeeze. It was another hour, but in the end I heard a holler of success from above! He had solved the routefinding crux. Now I got to climb the route again to clean gear.
![](http://lh5.ggpht.com/-1akvsEYvOvA/ULGnC8zsIwI/AAAAAAABd-k/fq3SEDqzHO8/s800/2012-11-23%252520-%25252020%252520-%252520Looking%252520Out%252520Reeds%252520Direct%252520P2%252520Crack.jpg") Visit on ggpht.com
Looking out the crack of P2 of Reed's Direct.
![](http://lh4.ggpht.com/-370YkTQZhx8/ULGnDp8gYgI/AAAAAAABd-s/sQdw3G-LTgI/s800/2012-11-23%252520-%25252021%252520-%252520Looking%252520Out%252520Reeds%252520Direct%252520P2%252520Crack.jpg") Visit on ggpht.com
Looking out the crack of P2 of Reed's Direct.
![](http://lh6.ggpht.com/-8gl7FhVgVnM/ULGnEgwqlxI/AAAAAAABd-0/Ic-nCLWQi80/s800/2012-11-23%252520-%25252022%252520-%252520Looking%252520Out%252520Reeds%252520Direct%252520P2%252520Crack.jpg") Visit on ggpht.com
Looking out the crack of P2 of Reed's Direct.
![](http://lh4.ggpht.com/--dc7YcCpQGo/ULGnF5Uvd8I/AAAAAAABd-8/oesFJCG1s6Q/s800/2012-11-23%252520-%25252023%252520-%252520Looking%252520Out%252520Reeds%252520Direct%252520P2%252520Crack.jpg") Visit on ggpht.com
Looking out the crack of P2 of Reed's Direct.
![](http://lh4.ggpht.com/-PaRR7lRuSmQ/ULGnGeCZNLI/AAAAAAABd_E/KU-1523Dn1E/s800/2012-11-23%252520-%25252024%252520-%252520Following%252520Back%252520Up.jpg") Visit on ggpht.com
Looking up as I re-climbed the route to follow Nutjob up. Glow sticks are on pro.
![](http://lh4.ggpht.com/-XcZ6vpkY9yc/ULGnHCoaEvI/AAAAAAABd_M/0rpqU7tLTxY/s800/2012-11-23%252520-%25252025%252520-%252520Glowstick%252520Following%252520Back%252520Up.jpg") Visit on ggpht.com
Glow stick on pro.
![](http://lh4.ggpht.com/-mhFpSHxUixg/ULGnI2LfcWI/AAAAAAABd_c/LSwWDNxoPHk/s800/2012-11-23%252520-%25252027%252520-%252520Looking%252520to%252520Reeds%252520Left%252520from%252520Alcove.jpg") Visit on ggpht.com
Looking out towards Reed's Left as I make better headway through the squeeze crux.
![](http://lh3.ggpht.com/-Jdd6-8uQIO8/ULGnJnW_hPI/AAAAAAABd_k/vz2nLoaskcE/s800/2012-11-23%252520-%25252028%252520-%252520Scott%252520at%252520the%252520End.jpg") Visit on ggpht.com
Looking at Nutjob and the end!
![](http://lh3.ggpht.com/-I_5ukGnyPJI/ULGnKfUkx-I/AAAAAAABd_s/oj5qoT8aQjg/s800/2012-11-23%252520-%25252029%252520-%252520Me%252520at%252520the%252520end%252520-%252520by%252520Scott%252520Keagy.jpg") Visit on ggpht.com
A wombat emerges from the depths . . . (by Nutjob)
![](http://lh5.ggpht.com/-AJi5sAm1H5k/ULGnKx5wc-I/AAAAAAABd_0/vlFdNAkiRJA/s800/2012-11-23%252520-%25252030%252520-%252520At%252520the%252520Final%252520Squeeze%252520-%252520by%252520Scott%252520Keagy.jpg") Visit on ggpht.com
Finishing the final squeeze crux. (by Nutjob)
![](http://lh5.ggpht.com/-ycsLMYQOLkw/ULGnMRYKjXI/AAAAAAABeAE/1fAMFji0rSE/s800/2012-11-23%252520-%25252032%252520-%252520Squeeze%252520Escape%252520Sequence%252520-%252520by%252520Scott%252520Keagy.jpg") Visit on ggpht.com
Finishing the final squeeze crux. (by Nutjob)
![](http://lh3.ggpht.com/-YotliWjYrpc/ULGnM5Beo6I/AAAAAAABeAM/a0wMS1unOJE/s800/2012-11-23%252520-%25252033%252520-%252520Squeeze%252520Escape%252520Sequence%252520-%252520by%252520Scott%252520Keagy.jpg") Visit on ggpht.com
Finishing the final squeeze crux. (by Nutjob)
![](http://lh5.ggpht.com/-SFF7BwuIdzI/ULGnNrNRR9I/AAAAAAABeAU/S9hVe8jwakU/s800/2012-11-23%252520-%25252034%252520-%252520Squeeze%252520Escape%252520Sequence%252520-%252520by%252520Scott%252520Keagy.jpg") Visit on ggpht.com
Finishing the final squeeze crux. (by Nutjob)
[ Click to View YouTube Video] (Video) Finishing the final squeeze crux. (by Nutjob)
![](http://lh3.ggpht.com/-wXW0RVe2ezo/ULGo5I8VW3I/AAAAAAABeAs/ko183YrrZKg/s800/2012-11-23%252520-%25252036%252520-%252520Nearly%252520Out%252520-%252520by%252520Scott%252520Keagy.jpg") Visit on ggpht.com
Freshly escaped from the final squeeze crux. (by Nutjob)
![](http://lh4.ggpht.com/-8X3HAEcwOf4/ULGo6daJ22I/AAAAAAABeA0/L-DiA7R9nV0/s800/2012-11-23%252520-%25252037%252520-%252520Done%252520with%252520the%252520DEER%252520-%252520by%252520Scott%252520Keagy.jpg") Visit on ggpht.com
The DEER is done. (by Nutjob)
![](http://lh3.ggpht.com/-_Iyubpy7NII/ULGo7Yc0hvI/AAAAAAABeA8/gSHbJ-uOUxs/s800/2012-11-23%252520-%25252038%252520-%252520Pantomiming%252520the%252520DEER%252520Experience%252520-%252520by%252520Scott%252520Keagy.jpg") Visit on ggpht.com
Pantomiming the DEER experience. (by Nutjob)
![](http://lh3.ggpht.com/-Lrj49Tqvckk/ULGo8Pph-5I/AAAAAAABeBE/UNFajW7_N74/s800/2012-11-23%252520-%25252039%252520-%252520Escape%252520Into%252520Daylight%252520-%252520by%252520Scott%252520Keagy.jpg") Visit on ggpht.com
Heading towards the light! (by Nutjob)
After spending the sunny day in darkness, we emerged just in time to see the sun set behind the horizon as we rappelled. Although we had expected this climb to go quickly, this little recon turned out to be a full day, but what an exciting and tiring one it was!
Rack:
*Singles from #0.3-#3 C4 Camalots, or even just alternate sizes. 1 optional #4 & 1 very optional #5 C4 Camalot (smaller gear can be placed nearby). Slings.
*Kneepads
*No helmet!
*3-6 glow sticks & 1 headlamp each
*Small chest & torso. Ours kept getting stuck. Crux is VERY size dependent and some people just might not fit. At least it is easy to downclimb to retreat!
Links
Personal Website
Picasa Album
Relevant SuperTopo threads:
* The Deer route
* Inside chimney all the way up Reed's Pinnacle?
* who owns the photo of werner with the boombox?
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Trip Report Views: 11,926 |
PellucidWombat
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About the Author
PellucidWombat is a mountain climber from Berkeley, CA. |
Comments
chill
climber
The fat part of the bell-curve
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Nov 30, 2012 - 02:20pm PT
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Fantastic! I felt claustrophobic just reading it. 'Nutjob' actually is a nutjob! I never realized that.
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10b4me
Social climber
Lida Junction
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Nov 30, 2012 - 02:22pm PT
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adventure climbing at it's best
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Nov 30, 2012 - 02:22pm PT
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Not being able to take full breaths, that would have sent my mental wheels off the road.
Nicely done gents!
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Nov 30, 2012 - 02:24pm PT
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It's good to see a Wombat in his element.....:)
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matty
Trad climber
Sad the forum is gone =(
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Nov 30, 2012 - 02:30pm PT
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Too cool!!! looks way fun and very unique. I'd love to hide back there and scare people on lead lol...maybe grab their hand when they jam, or just stare at them from inside the crack.
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Nov 30, 2012 - 02:37pm PT
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Wombats are primarily nocturnal, no?
That was an awesome write-up. The glow sticks were a great idea.
Take the leftover glowsticks to the Black Rock Desert next summer and give us an equally great TR from there.
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Sonic
Trad climber
Golden, Co
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Nov 30, 2012 - 02:38pm PT
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Awesome! Nice Job
Can't wait to get back to the Valley
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Nov 30, 2012 - 02:39pm PT
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Dood, yer twisted! But adventurous and obviously not claustrophobic.
ps
you could edit the number of pics down for those not on broadband ;-)
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Nov 30, 2012 - 02:45pm PT
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So cool. I love it when people finds ways of wringing new adventures from something that appears to be well trodden. Good job dudes.
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nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
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Nov 30, 2012 - 02:52pm PT
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The main thing about avoiding deep breaths was to just stay calm and make small moves!
The most serious part was actually the run-out start based on the way Mark went at first. Contrary to popular wisdom, it is possible to fall out of a chimney. Safer to stick to the protectable crack all the way until progress is impossible, then traverse straight over until it is barely possible.
If you're fat it is truly impossible. But if you're skinny enough to fit through (I'm 6'1" 165lbs), it's actually a pretty moderate adventure and I'm surprised more people don't do it.
It might be a good alternate rainy day objective, where the crux would be getting started on the wet P1 of Reed's Direct.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Nov 30, 2012 - 02:48pm PT
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Very cool!
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briham89
Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
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Nov 30, 2012 - 07:31pm PT
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So cool!!!
Too cool!!! looks way fun and very unique. I'd love to hide back there and scare people on lead lol...maybe grab their hand when they jam, or just stare at them from inside the crack.
That would literally scare the crap out of me haha
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limpingcrab
Gym climber
Minkler, CA
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Nov 30, 2012 - 02:56pm PT
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Another nice one. You missed you calling to become a rich guidebook author
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Nov 30, 2012 - 03:01pm PT
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Good stuff!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Nov 30, 2012 - 03:23pm PT
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Cool - thanks for sharing.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Nov 30, 2012 - 03:34pm PT
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Once again you've given us a great TR. My climbing partner of 45 years has spent the past 45 years trying to get me to go caving. I think I now have a project for us, as soon as I lose weight (I'm a lot shorter than nutjob, but weight more at the moment).
Thanks much.
John
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kaholatingtong
Trad climber
The fake McCoy from nevernever land.
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Nov 30, 2012 - 03:44pm PT
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tight sh#t yo
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Nov 30, 2012 - 04:10pm PT
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On exit you've got that deer in the headlights look!!
Yer bats**t crazy!
Well done!
Who/when was the FA?
6'1" 185lbs
I ain't goin nowhere near it.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Oakland, CA
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Nov 30, 2012 - 03:58pm PT
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wow. THanks for posting this. Pretty weird to be on the backside of a crack like that!
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climbski2
Mountain climber
The Ocean
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Nov 30, 2012 - 04:02pm PT
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I feel claustrophobic after this TR.
Thank GAWD for the glowsticks!
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
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Author's Reply
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Nov 30, 2012 - 04:04pm PT
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For the record on size, in comparison to Scott, I'm about 5'9" and normally weigh about 165lbs (After a summer of climbing, I'm at 175 as of now, but my pant size has shrunken to 30). It was actually very helpful to tie the knots in long for the final squeeze, and don't even thing of trying to trail gear on it - there is enough sideways squeezing (i.e. you are not upright) that that would suck.
And as an addition to Nutjob's talk on breathing - this was my first time climbing a squeeze that was so tight for so long. This was about as hard as the tunnel-through behind the projecting flake on Generator Crack (though harder to find the correct route, and much longer). When I first got winded and found my breathing restrained, it was easy to panic a bit, but I quickly realized that when you get winded in there, since you can't take deep breaths, you should just slow down and rest until you catch your breath from lighter breathing.
Too cool!!! looks way fun and very unique. I'd love to hide back there and scare people on lead lol...maybe grab their hand when they jam, or just stare at them from inside the crack.
I was thinking it could be fun to leave little inspirational signs in there for one to see as they climb higher: "Come on man!" . . . "You've got this!" . . . "Almost there!" . . . "If you're tired by now, you're in trouble for the finish." Or wait until the leader has passed, then place some objects for the follower to find, maybe attached to the pro (troll dolls?).
The glow sticks were a great idea.
Take the leftover glowsticks to the Black Rock Desert next summer and give us an equally great TR from there.
If I had been more on top of it, I should have placed more pro for the glow sticks, and climbed with my headlamp on strobe mode, with the music box playing. Maybe more fun to do at night? Party at the DEER!
Burning Man is definitely on the to-do agenda. The crux is that it is during prime alpine trad time, and on a long weekend to boot!
Perhaps to preempt some other questions:
There was a little bit of wetness in there, but just a few small, narrow drips to cross, and one dripping chockstone. For the most part the rock was very clean, and the dirt not too bad and only found in a few places.
Also, I only saw one small spider and some other type of strange bug, but that was in the wider chimney where I could skirt away from them :-)
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nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
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Nov 30, 2012 - 04:08pm PT
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I tried to psych Mark out about the albino ants and some sticky substance that you better wash off right away before it burns. I don't think he was buying it, or too distracted to care much.
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
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Author's Reply
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Nov 30, 2012 - 04:19pm PT
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It might be a good alternate rainy day objective, where the crux would be getting started on the wet P1 of Reed's Direct.
Actually Scott, as you got me thinking about that - you can actually get to that same tree by climbing that 5.4 chimney to the left of Reed's Direct. Perhaps that would be more doable in the rain? Or another option is to start on P1 of Reed's, Left Side (fun 5.8, btw), and tunnel in from there. That side might be a bit more protected from the rain on the first mid-5th bit, and then you are definitely in dry territory if you tunnel right in there.
I don't think he was buying it, or too distracted to care much. Hahaha! I was wondering what that was about. I think my reaction was a bit of both :-)
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krahmes
Social climber
Stumptown
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Nov 30, 2012 - 04:12pm PT
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Weird and postmodern (whatever that is): Great stuff.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Nov 30, 2012 - 04:11pm PT
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Nucking FUTZ!
This pic draws you in and cuts off your air...
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
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Author's Reply
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Nov 30, 2012 - 04:16pm PT
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Oh, and for those who wonder about the photos, I gave Scott my DSLR to shoot with and he mostly shot with the natural light in the crack (i.e. no flash). I had forgotten to turn off the RAW recording mode on the camera, but that turned out to be a good thing. I was able to lighten up the photos considerably, bring out detail, flatten the high dynamic range, and clean up noise a lot from the RAW vs. if he had just been shooting with a JPEG recording. You'll notice that my photos with the point & shoot are much darker & grainer in comparison.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Nov 30, 2012 - 04:23pm PT
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Cool!
Small chest and torso... count me out. I'd be stuck in there until I rotted away to bones.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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Nov 30, 2012 - 04:27pm PT
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Good grief! Wyde spelunking!
I wonder what grade something like that would be given?
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limpingcrab
Gym climber
Minkler, CA
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Nov 30, 2012 - 05:24pm PT
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It makes me happy that you guys did this. Awesome
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nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
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Nov 30, 2012 - 05:35pm PT
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The rating is 5.p
where
p = 9 / ( 10.5 - max( {chest/waist/hips/butt thickness in inches} ) )
In other words, it's about 5.8 or 5.9 if your thickest part is about 9.5 inches deep or less. It quickly becomes impossible as your thickness goes beyond about 9.5 inches *.
* I measured by wedging a door shut on me until it felt the right tightness, then using a tape measure determined about 9" - 9.5" depending on door flex.
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nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
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Nov 30, 2012 - 05:34pm PT
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Dude Toadgas, tell me which route!
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
Wilds of New Mexico
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Nov 30, 2012 - 05:35pm PT
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Nice. I can safely say I won't ever get on (in?) this route!
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Prod
Trad climber
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Nov 30, 2012 - 06:05pm PT
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I think I'd bring a gun just in case....
F*#ked-up-awesome TR to be sure.
Prod.
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
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Author's Reply
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Nov 30, 2012 - 06:15pm PT
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I think I'd bring a gun just in case....
Hmm, another idea for DEER fun. Bring up a water pistol, and shoot water out of the cracks, just one or two jams above a climber's head. I wonder what they'd think, seeing that jet of water squirting out of the next jam :-)
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tornado
climber
lawrence kansas
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Nov 30, 2012 - 06:24pm PT
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Hey, did you find my house keys in there?
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Prod
Trad climber
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Nov 30, 2012 - 06:26pm PT
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Hmm, another idea for DEER fun. Bring up a water pistol, and shoot water out of the cracks, just one or two jams above a climber's head. I wonder what they'd think, seeing that jet of water squirting out of the next jam :-)
That is not what the gun is for....
Prod.
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
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Author's Reply
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Nov 30, 2012 - 06:34pm PT
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Hey, did you find my house keys in there?
We did find 2 carabiners, a nut (?), and an old gym belay card within the crux squeeze passage . . .
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Nov 30, 2012 - 06:39pm PT
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Sick!
Fortunately I am too fat to attempt.
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lars johansen
Trad climber
West Marin, CA
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Nov 30, 2012 - 06:48pm PT
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Very sick and wrong...top flight!!
lars
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whitemeat
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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Nov 30, 2012 - 06:54pm PT
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Is the "deer" route the route called the regular route in the super topo guide
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
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Author's Reply
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Nov 30, 2012 - 07:01pm PT
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Is the "deer" route the route called the regular route in the super topo guide
Nope. The Regular route climbs outside for P1 & P2, to the right of the Direct, then tunnels sideways through the "pinnacle" part of Reed's Pinnacle for P3 (P2 is the feint, wandering white streak that goes through the "'s D" writing in the 2nd photo of this TR). The DEER exits into P3 of the RR. If one were so inclined, after the DEER they could continue to the top via P3 & P4 of the RR (5.8 & 5.9), or P3 of the direct (5.10a).
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Nov 30, 2012 - 07:26pm PT
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It was I would proposed the name "Deer" route, for "Reeds" spelled backwards
Couldn't do it though, too Phat!
Congrats! Not too many folks have been up that the hole way!
Peace
Karl
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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Nov 30, 2012 - 07:52pm PT
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You guys see any hamsters in there? How about thermite?
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Nov 30, 2012 - 07:52pm PT
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Great. How about the temperature?
I know chimneying tends to warm the body, but three hours back in that
cooler must have quite an effect, I'd think.
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Powder
Trad climber
the Box
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Nov 30, 2012 - 08:06pm PT
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WOW This is SOOOO cool!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for sharing!!
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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Nov 30, 2012 - 08:16pm PT
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holy jeeeeeeeezus,
next time wait til the guy gets half way up the asthma route and then put on The End by the Doors from your secret ghetto blaster,
then call 911
cool report, i bet scruffy b is on his way to that crack,
does greg stock know about this soon to be exfoilition, jus sayin...
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RyanD
climber
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Nov 30, 2012 - 08:13pm PT
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Very cool, awesome report as usual. Looks like a fun adventure!
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Nov 30, 2012 - 08:16pm PT
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It's not "spelunking", dammmit - it's "caving". CAVING!!
And that was one pretty nasty passage, that's for sure. I just returned from the Mammoth System, after trying to negotiate an 8.5" squeeze followed by a tight bend just after it. I couldn't do it, no how, no way. However 30 years and 40 pounds ago, it'd been a cakewalk. But not for us 5'9" 165lb lard-asses.
Stefano made it. Skinny little bastard. The question is, had anyone ever been there before us, and does this nasty squeeze really lead to the legendary Lost Walking Passage?
To take the squeezes we did last weekend, and rotate them into the vertical? Geeez.... no thanks!
Great job on the TR, mate!
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Nov 30, 2012 - 09:24pm PT
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I freaked out on the tunnel through to Reeds Direct. I am light, by clausterphobia standards. Good job. Seek professional help.
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hossjulia
Trad climber
Carson City, NV
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Nov 30, 2012 - 09:47pm PT
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I like the idea of hiding in there and skering the shait out of monkeys not expecting it. Grabbin someones hand, oh haha.
(Not a leader though, and better if its an unsuspecting pal)
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 30, 2012 - 09:53pm PT
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Yikes....excellent adventure. Now I know where the next major rock fall will be.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Nov 30, 2012 - 10:02pm PT
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Yer both clinical
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Nov 30, 2012 - 10:49pm PT
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^^^^^ scuffy
don't we know about THAT!
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
On the road.
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Nov 30, 2012 - 10:58pm PT
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Now, that was different!
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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Nov 30, 2012 - 10:59pm PT
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ok, skuffy.
that looks like some cosmic cragging you did there,
possible new secret bivy unknown by ranger rick?
is it wide enuff for a hammock?
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couchmaster
climber
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Nov 30, 2012 - 11:07pm PT
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DEER season must have started. I got that claustrophobic feeling just reading the TR. Good work.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Obscurist's in the highest order.
My definition of a nightmare climb, thank god I'm short n port!
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Dang cavers getting it done. Sweet.
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westhegimp
Social climber
granada hills
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SICK! I mean you guys are sick. :)
Thanks for the awesome TR.
Wes
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Truly sick ... but fun !
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Borut
Mountain climber
Ljubljana, Slovenia
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TFPU
Great art images too
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
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Author's Reply
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Dec 1, 2012 - 03:43am PT
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Regarding the bivy questions . . . well, the widest part of the chimney is where Nutjob is standing here:
It only gets narrower as you go higher or traverse left, and there are loose blocks in the base (it is not flat inside but slopes up immediately). Iota Chimney or backside of Iota Flake might be a better contender there.
On another note, at the start of the DEER, on the outside of the main flake, you can traverse heading right behind a smaller flake, to intersect the RR at the top of P1. That part might be a bit wider and flatter at the top (I've belayed from inside of that, looking down on a party on Reed's Direct).
So many hiding places! :-)
An SS spelunking adventure - now THAT would be epic!
Temperature? Well, I overheated so badly that my glasses kept fogging up, so I hung them off a piece of pro to get back later. Even after 3 hrs in there, I was working hard enough that I never got cold - just less steamy. It was just cool enough to keep long sleeves on, though. Probably more for the abrasion protection than cold . . .
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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What an amazing adventure!
There is no way I could endure that.
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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This is awesome - the kind of TR is that keeps me on ST. This route has literally been under all our noses.
Also, looks scary as a MF. I think I'll avoid direct contact with this one having failed to make it through the SS narrows.
Great job guys !
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Cool TR. Nice pictures. I like the glow sticks!
Kevin is correct in suspecting that I had done this in the early 70s. I wonder if anyone else has ever climbed all the way to the exit?
Karl brought is up in a thread a few years ago. This is my post: Reeds DEER Route
When I climbed it, I lucked out and had no problems finding a way to the top, so I wasn't behind there very long. I headed up and left to the exit. I think there is only one way to exit into the horizontal chimney connecting the right and left sides of Reeds. I remember being in one area, moving sideways, where I could not turn my head. As Wombat points out, the width varies--"pods"--where the chimney widens out. I was skinny and had no gear or rope, so it was easy to move around--relatively easy: it is tight.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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I just found a thread that Karl Baba posted in 2003 on DEER.
Karl Baba's Original "DEER" Thread dated Nov 25, 2003.
I posted on that thread also.
Karl had just met a climber, John Bencic, who had soloed up Deer, and then downclimbed DEER to get back to the start. I suppose you could downclimb the regular route jam cracks or the left side chimneys. Backing down DEER is more secure.
Kevin, I always tell the truth! I just simplify, simplify, and simplify and then exaggerate. I might have owned my little Rollie 35, but there was no flash and glow sticks didn't exist.
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
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Author's Reply
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Dec 2, 2012 - 11:41pm PT
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I think there is only one way to exit in to the horizontal chimney connecting the right and left sides of Reeds.
Unless you are quite a bit smaller than me and Nutjob, this is definitely the case.
I'm not saying in the TR exactly how we managed the last little bit, to keep some fun for others that want to poke around in there. Let's just say you have to think outside the box a little on how to position yourself. :-)
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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So Wombat, what did you differently at the exit? It sounds like you tried all the different ways on your first try, but then found the way following Nutjob's rope.
We should find John Bencic and start a club for small chested adventurer climbers with no fear of tight places and an appreciation of the dark. Have you guys climbed the Harding Hole (or whatever it is called) in the Lost Arrow Chimney for comparison?
I also think you should name (rename) the route. Something with Glow Stick in the title.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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That was totally sick and perverted. I loved every minute.
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nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
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For the record: the only reason I'm wearing a backpack is to keep the camera safe!
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
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Author's Reply
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Dec 3, 2012 - 03:18pm PT
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So Wombat, what did you differently at the exit? It sounds like you tried all the different ways on your first try, but then found the way following Nutjob's rope.
Following the rope wouldn't have helped as the way out did not follow a straight line. Fortunately Nutjob could see me and tell me the beta. I dunno, Nutjob, should we spill the beans on this? ;-)
We should find John Bencic and start a club for small chested adventurer climbers with no fear of tight places and an appreciation of the dark.
I think my problem started back in middle school, when I fit myself into a closed locker just to see if I could do it. Fortunately I had trustworthy accomplices to let me out! Perhaps to join the club there should be initiation rites like this, or perhaps being packed inside of a suitcase or something of that nature.
Have you guys climbed the Harding Hole (or whatever it is called) in the Lost Arrow Chimney for comparison?
I haven't done the chimney yet, but I hope to some day! The tunnel through finish definitely has me curious . . .
I also think you should name (rename) the route.
Hmm, "Trial by Glow Stick"? I'm sure I can come up with a better one . . .
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Going back for the clean ascent- no kneepads??
you guys are my heroes
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Can you get to the inside of the Reed's Direct crack?
Man, you could play some funny jokes on that. Somebody would be climbing on the outside and you would grab onto their fingers.
If it isn't shallow enough for that, you could put a feather on the end of a stick and tickle their hands.
The possiblities are endless.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
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I love chimneys (the chimney on the nearby Iota is one of my favorites) so I was intrigued by Roger and Karl's earlier reports. This TR however, takes the cake! Congratulations! If I ever get into climbing shape again, this is on my list. And I will definitely bring memorial glosticks!
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Awesome TR! I will not be attempting that, not even in my darkest nightmare.
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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BASE 104
Yes, you can get to the inside of the long Direct crack.
These guys entered the chimney at the start of that crack.
Most of that long crack, perhaps not all of it, is accessible from
the back.
I have read of tricks which have been played on unsuspecting climbers.
Check the links in posts just above.
I have not gone up this chimney, but on numerous occasions I have
entered it from Reed's Left and exited at the belay alcove where
Nutjob and Wombat entered. There is a mound of talus, so the traverse
is a combination of squirmy hiking and actual chimneying, to get past
a few large chockstones.
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pc
climber
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Creepy but cool TR!
BTW You guys are crazy!
pc
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nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
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Scuffy, I recall being startled by you at some point in the past, when I was on Reed's Direct, probably atop P1. You were just suddenly there by yourself with no rope. It was an unsettling, but oddly matter-of-fact experience. I think you had been slithering from Reed's Left over to that spot gathering booty? Maybe that added to my curiosity.
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
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Author's Reply
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Dec 4, 2012 - 04:15pm PT
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Going back for the clean ascent- no kneepads??
Actually unless duct tape counts (more of a handicap, really), then Nutjob did it sans kneepads.
I'm glad for the kneepads, though. Both of my knees have problems (left one is in need of a third surgery for the ACL & cartilage), and for the 3 hours I was leading, I could not get my knees off the wall! They were pretty tender after I came down, even with the pads. Now that I know where to go, though, I think I'd go up without since I wouldn't spend that long in there.
Most of that long crack, perhaps not all of it, is accessible from the back.
You can actually see some sucker light pouring in from the wider finish to the Direct. I think it pinches off too much to actually reach that light, but you can get pretty close.
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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Obscurist's in the highest order.
FRiggin' absolute!
You killed it boys!!
YER GONNA DIE!!!
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Jan 28, 2015 - 08:26pm PT
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awesome report and route !
"Tight, tight, tight"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sPfxMIhEUrQ
It was rescue in 2010 on this route [ or possible Reeds regular pitch 3]
3-28-10 – Climber Stuck in Cave-Reed’s Pinnacle
On Sunday, March 28, 2010 at approximately 5:00 p.m. Yosemite Dispatch received a report that a climber was stuck in the crawl through on Reed’s Pinnacle and was asking for assistance. Two NPS Rangers prepared to climb to the top of Reed’s Direct to access the stuck climber from the prominent ledge system. Communication with the partner of the stuck climber was established at the base of the west end of the pinnacle and with the assistance from another climbing party was able to free himself from the crawl through and all parties rappelled to the base at 6:15 p.m.
http://www.friendsofyosar.org/rescues/rescues_2010.html
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Jan 28, 2015 - 08:03pm PT
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This just looks like something evil is about to slide, slither, or ooze into frame. Gives the willies.
FINE TR!
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Jan 28, 2015 - 08:44pm PT
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Soooperb!
Thanks for the beta.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
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Jan 29, 2015 - 11:14am PT
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I still have those jeans with the duct tape knees in my garage- I didn't want to wash them and spoil the tape-job that covers the holes :)
But I had forgotten which route I climbed with them!
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Jan 29, 2015 - 02:16pm PT
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Not in a million years.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Jan 29, 2015 - 02:23pm PT
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Super wide !
Cool Route on a hot day
Great esoteric, write up,
We'll mined from the archive!
Alexey.
(did my comment 'ask the duck about recovery from on of those deep fissures' stir this up? or just great coincidence!)
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LuckyPink
climber
the last bivy
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Jan 29, 2015 - 02:34pm PT
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always can count on Wombat for great routes and really fine trip reports. thanks. this route was just pointed out to me the other day. Awesome
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
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Jan 29, 2015 - 03:28pm PT
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Dude! That would be taking obscurity and adventure to the next level. Only time I've been there I was literally in fetal position because of poor general fitness. But oh yes, that would be a great spot to explore...
From le_bruce's report of our trip up there:
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Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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Jan 29, 2015 - 04:48pm PT
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You skinny people and your skinny-people ideas. I mean, the whole bulk of the chimneying looked pretty fun, but that final squeeze through? Nope. No thanks.
Loved the TR though! Just probably not something for my to-do list.
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Jan 29, 2015 - 04:59pm PT
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The dramatic self rescue of 3-28-2010 cited by Alexey was from the
3rd pitch of Reed's Regular route.
It was a warm day, but the climber was stuck in the squeeze for
perhaps 2 hours, long enough for hypothermia to be a consideration.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
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Jan 29, 2015 - 11:04pm PT
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My first time on Reed's involved P2 of direct and then the tunnel-through for the regular route.
I was stuck sideways for a bit with my pelvis locked in,
gear and helmet trailing on slings.
Very easy to see how someone can get stuck there.
(because if you slide down, you can get wedged in more tightly)
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
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Author's Reply
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Feb 26, 2015 - 03:39pm PT
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Sadly I am now too fat to properly tunnel through behind the projecting flake section of Generator Crack. I need to slim down to my skinny man OW pants before I tackle squeezes like this again :-)
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Feb 26, 2015 - 04:10pm PT
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Climbing on the outside of the Generator flake is way better!
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
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Jul 23, 2018 - 06:09pm PT
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Bump for climbing ideas when the valley is crowded and hot.
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