Commitment 5.9

My new climbing partner Pierson Bourquin and I climbed The Commitment on June 14. Pierson was in town with his Shasta Mountain Guide friend Brian Anderson, so we did the route as a threesome. This was their first trip to the Valley with a climbing rack! We started the day over on the Glacier Point Apron - warming up on the Grack. Pierson got a little too warm and requested a climb in the shade. I did The Caverns (5.8) a couple of weeks prior, so thought that Five Open Books (FOB) would be a good place to escape the afternoon sun. Pierson wanted to lead 5.7, Brian wanted 5.8, and I wanted 5.9 - so Commitment here we come! P1 = 5.8, P2 = 5.7, P3 = 5.9

There was another party in front of us, so we had a little rest, racked up, and studied the topos. The party was fast, experienced and up the route and no time. When they got to the top, rocks started to rain down on us, so always where a helmet at FOB. P1 has a 5.8 move right off the deck. The move is a little tricky - polished feet and slightly awkward - Brian could not decide to jam or lieback - so he tried both and slipped back onto his pro a couple of times. I used a lieback when it was my turn. Pierson belayed Brian sporting his new gadget - belay glasses!


P2 is a nice shady arching corner (5.7) Pierson made quick work of it but was lured to the right at the top of the pitch - by two shiny bolt anchor. If you go this way you miss the top part of the pitch and have to traverse across some mung - my advice - stay in the corner and build a trad anchor under the roof

P3 is the business and I was stoked to be on the sharp end. I've been leading 5.8 for years and finally started to seek out 5.9 routes - esp ones that protect well and only have a few moves at the grade. Commitment fits the bill, so go get on it! I worked my way under the roof, placed a good cam and tried to figure out the committing move. The feet are a little polished, but the right hand hold is almost a jug, so I made the commitment and pulled the move. The stance on the other side is good - you can even rest against the left wall. Awesome liebacks after you get pro.
The rest of P3 is steep, fun and protects well. At the top be super careful of the loose rocks - they are every where! I made a long rope anchor on the tree so that I could lean back and watch my followers struggle - but they only had one hang dog...
I've now climbed three of the five open book climbs - got to get them all dialed in, then do them in a day! (FOBIAD)