Trip Report
Tetons, Death Canyon, Cardiac Arete 5.9

by Ezra Ellis
Saturday July 23, 2011 4:15pm
So my most reliable climbing partner got out for a quick day trip to the Tetons last weekend, still lots of water but the snow level seems to be retreating a bit. It was amazing to see the destruction of the avalanche chute by Phelps lake, snapped trees like matchsticks! It hit 82 or more degrees in Jackson that day and was a bit hot on most of the route~!

The hike in

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Phelps lake

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Our route on the arrette approximately

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More approach pics

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Scott, a great climbing partner!

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Base of the climb did I mention it was hot!!!!

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So we left our pack out on the above tree, about at the top of the pitch the FATTEST MARMOT EVER (seriously it was 35 pounds) comes out and looks at me, then looks at the bag, then looks at me and says chirp chirp chirp chirp, man was he mad. Gave me quite the chuckle!!!!


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Looking up P1

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Looking down P2

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So it being hot I grab the only shady belay on the route, I mention to scott that I could have linked pitches but the shade looked well soooooo inviting...:)

So scott starts up P3 and is roasting in the sun;

I yell up, Scott can you climb a little faster, I'm loosing my shade, I hear a very curt: F-you Ezra.

My reply is: dude I was just kidding;
Scott Says: I wasn't....:)


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Up P3

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The 3 belay below the mega classic 5.9 Hand crack!

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The crack!

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I managed to lead the 5.9 with some hanging, I reccomend 2 x #3 camalots and
2 #2's

Final Classic 5.8 pitch



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The hideous down climb after the 150 feet double rope rappel, loose pebbly large blocks, Scary sh*te
The hike out

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Scott bonked pretty hard on the hike out due to a lack of water which is ironic because we were surrounded by water
the road crossing

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  Trip Report Views: 3,986
Ezra Ellis 		About the Author
Ezra Ellis is a trad climber from WA, & NC & Idaho.

Comments
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
Author's Reply  Jul 26, 2011 - 10:19pm PT
Can every one see the pics ok?
Has any body been on the Snaz yet this year is it dry?

How does the snaz compare to the cardiac arette in difficulty?
Is the snaz soft or hard for a 5.10???

Thanks!
Jennie

Trad climber
Elk Creek, Idaho
  Jul 26, 2011 - 11:54pm PT
Beautiful photos, Ezra. Sublime Death Canyon rock!
alpinerockfiend

Trad climber
the Magic City
  Jul 27, 2011 - 12:12am PT
Ezra, great TR man! That was one of my earliest 5.9s (I grew up in Jackson). Cool to see a TR on a route that usually lives under the radar. It gets overshadowed by Annals of Time, Dihedral of Horrors, and all the stuff further up the canyon.
The Snaz will definitely feel burlier to most people. Lots o' physical crack climbing, sustained for the grade. Like I mentioned, Annals and Dihedral are really good too. PM me if you want info on any of the climbs I listed- I grew up in jhole and climbed all of that stuff a lot.
Captain...or Skully

climber
Boise, ID
  Jul 27, 2011 - 12:39am PT
Right on, Ezra. Glad to see you didn't end up with another "elk hunt".
;-) TFPU, BroMan.
Trip reports rule. The Real! oh, yes.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Jul 27, 2011 - 12:48am PT
Looks great I need to put it on the list.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Outside the Asylum
  Jul 27, 2011 - 12:52am PT
Yowza! Very nice!

Kewl marmot, too.
Sonic

Trad climber
Golden, Co
  Jul 27, 2011 - 01:49am PT
Looks awesome!!!!!!
Fritz

Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
  Jul 27, 2011 - 04:05pm PT
Ezra: Thanks for the report. Re. your question: Can everyone see the photos OK? I see them all, but about half are a little blurry.

No recent Snaz report. I tried climbing it about 1983. Donini led a visiting Polish climber up it, while my friend Kevin and I followed on a second rope. Several leads up: the Polish climber dropped most of Donini's rack on our heads. We were a little alarmed, but not injured. Donini then led the final over-hanging and traversing lead without placing much pro and when the Polish gent followed, he fell off and took a huge pendulem, while screaming in pure terror.

At that point we rappelled. It was rated 5.9 at the time.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Jul 27, 2011 - 10:38am PT
EZRA!!!
Most excellent broham! I love the monster sized pics, I can't help it.

So great to see something from the Tetons. Please keep 'em coming!

Fritz, loved your mini-tr too man! Ha!!!
"At that point, we rappelled." I totally understand. Woot!
Les

Trad climber
Bahston
  Jul 27, 2011 - 02:00pm PT
Did The Snaz a few years ago and thought it pretty fairly graded. The bombay chimney (5.8) seemed the hardest part to me. The 5.10 roof, which I followed, was not bad at all. Lots of good climbing on it, especially the double crack pitch up high. Highly recommended.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Jul 27, 2011 - 02:09pm PT
nice. good marmot trick.
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