Our Trip to Frustration Creek,CA

by Mr.E & Justthemaid

We love to explore new areas…Pretty much any rotting heap is worthy of our excitement. We climbed places any wholesome climber would find repugnant – and had a good time. It’s all about the company when you haul your ass a hundred miles for some questionable choss-pile someone on Mountain Project has labeled “Climbing Area”.

But then there are those places that no-one even bothers to mention the objective hazards. Whether that be from the overwhelming singular hazard or the multitudinous elements, not a word is whispered – not even a “beware”. Left to blind exploration, yours is an oft-told story - your misery used as an example, whispered over beers during trip-planning.

Such was our trip to Vexation Creek. Some call it Frustration Creek, but it is only slightly mis-labeled by our interpretation. We'd heard tell that some climbs easier than 5.13 had finally been installed, so we decided to check it out.

After a two-hour drive, we “think” we have found the place as we thrash our way up the poison-oak filled creek-bed. A car, plastered in climber-stickers parked in the wrong turnout, evidently was left as a decoy to lure 1st timers like us into a yucca and uroshoil-laden trap . I'm a flip-flop hiker and managed to impale a toe on a yucca in short order. Finally realizing our error, we drive another ½ mile past the “obvious hairpin” corner where the crag is marked in the Mayr guide. Meh. Shiny bolts and fixed ropes clearly visible from the road . (Doh!).

Walking in, our excitement is tempered by the trail being blocked by the following: two “friendly” dogs barking their brains out at us, and a whole family with a multitude of rug-rats and a giant parasol completely covering the access trail. We clamber through the steel I-beam “fence” and finally get to the crag.






Upon arriving at the Lower Tier, we have to share space with thousands of bees that are feeding on the last trickle that was Frustration Creek some weeks ago. Hoping they are not Africanized, we set up the belay for “Soul Slab” ( a new climb) and away we go. The cleaning of the pitch above “Soul Slab” left a ton of dirt so there is not a single hold that is not plastered in grime. Mr E seemed to be enjoying the climb until he encountered a ledge half way up… where there is a mantel... covered in poison oak. Spring has apparently been good for the re-growth, as it is sprouting back in force after the cleaning. Evidently we missed the gear-beta memo to bring a haz-mat suit and Round-Up up this climb.




Routing the rope to avoid the bushes becomes the next challenge, requiring a long runner and skipping a poorly-placed bolt (risking a fall into the PO) to keep the rope clear of the plants. Good times. The seconding required freaked-noob rope tension to avoid the bushes, and even with our best effort, pulling the rope becomes a PO drag at the end. For the rest of the day, we have to tie up the “oiled” end of the rope to avoid touching it. Shenanigans ensued ... un-clipping and re-clipping for the follower since we had to climb on the same end of the rope for the rest of the day.






Frustration Creek is a major drainage, and we had read that a large amount of rock and mud had been deposited into the canyon from a flood. Some of the climbs were buried in as much as 10 feet of debris shortening them and destroying bolts in the process.

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/106019728

Exploration of the Lower Tier revealed PO sprouting out of every nook and cranny as well as some impressive 30-foot vines staking out their turf on the climbing walls. The locals must be genetically resistant or just plain evil. Further uninspired by red-tags and 3-bolt climbs (drastically shortened by the flood), we decide to move on to the Upper Tier in search of longer and less itchy options. The guide says “5th class” climbing to the next tier. First, however, we have to cross the bee-infested creek of course.


One thing we have noticed is that there are fixed ropes EVERYWHERE! ... everywhere except the “5th class” scramble. Mr.E solos up to a sloping stance right next to another “puddle o’stingy” and belays me up (since I'm a big fat chicken). Looking up, we see fixed gear on every other section BUT the section we just climbed – maybe meant to discourage noobs. It almost worked.




The flood did a number on the Upper Level. We find bolt-holes at knee-level, and even ankle-level. We also find a gallon of PO round-UP. The locals have done a great job cleaning it up and adjusting the height of the (new) first bolts BTW.

We climbed several of the moderates on the left side, and found the rock to be better. Gnats keep us doing a “belayer’s jig”. There is little poison oak up but plenty of nettles...just to keep you on your toes. We enjoyed the Upper Tier quite a lot, which worked to assuage our butt-hurt over the first climb and the stupid approach.

Would have been nice to do some second pitches, but we were unwilling to release the end of the rope that was coated in rash-potential so it was access-denied. There's some loose rock and choss about, but the familiarity of creaking holds and few pebbles whizzing down works to sooth our rattled senses.










This place could grow on you.




So, in summation:

Frustration Creek is a great place to climb if you bring the following gear:




12 draws including a set of long runners
3 spare ropes
helmet
shoulder pads
broom
Steel toed boots
ear plugs
haz-mat suit
epi-pen
bee-suit
bug repellent
dog repellent
child repellent
Round Up
tweezers
Calamine lotion
Technu
A torch to burn your Mayr guide