Trip Report
Team Geezers,, Team Babes, MotherHen(pecker) and Tuolumne (pic heavy)
Friday July 19, 2013 3:24pm
In the interest of full disclosure, if you were expecting lusty young climbing babes in tube tops as part of Team Babes, you might as well restart the Boobs thread. Teams Babes here means 20-somethings (age) young climbers that got together with Geezers to crush in Tuolumne….for the most part.
The rendezvous was on…some serious time in Tuolumne was coming together. Team Geezer was to be composed of Michael (Ferretlegger on ST); Phillipe (Guck on ST) and Art…the combined years of climbing amongst the 3 of them approaching about 125 years! Well poor Art broke his foot in Stockholm so he was out for the count. So the Ferret and the Guck, now reducing the combined climbing experience to somewhere around 90 years felt they could provide the safe stewardship and mentoring for the Team Babes. My role, as MotherHen (pecker) is to provide stability, make sure everyone gets to bed on time, have an ample supply of reading glasses, beer, while throwing in some climbing, hiking and scrambling for me.

Team Babes...they are a group of youngin' up and coming climbers, that have become disciples of Phillipe from UC Santa Barbara. See, Phillipe is a retired prof living in Santa Barbara and trains at the UCSB climbing gym. He has become something of a guru to these young climbers, something akin to a “Trad Master” as he shares his stories of epic exploits (of which there have been a few…including the daring “taking a sh*t in the old Abbot Hut outhouse”. http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1650185&msg=1651262#msg1651262 ) or the infamous “butt belay” in France. http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1496782&msg=1498022#msg1498022

So the fix was on and away we would all go and have a grand time. Michael and I left several days early and drove through the Central Valley during that incredulous heat wave. It was 108 degrees as we hit Old Priest Grade. We looked at each other and thought “no” better not, so we wound up New Priest Grade….man does that thing wind and wind and wind. We were hoping it would be cooler in Tuolumne and we were not disappointed…by 40 degrees! Yeah! What a relief! Camp set up we had all the stuff we needed:
A tent, a bug house over the table (new addition this year…we really are geezing, my “never-leave-home-without-it” hammock and a jet boil. Just can't me off the ground....even a fetching Sportsmobile doesn't have the lure of the ground. We are stylin!
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ahhh camp all set up in Tuolumne
ahhh camp all set up in Tuolumne
Credit: SCseagoat
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This is one of my favorite positions,even missing a shoe.(now this should be on the Kuma Sutra poster for the mature crowd!)
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Shoe? I don't need no stinkin' shoe, gotta hammock.
Shoe? I don't need no stinkin' shoe, gotta hammock.
Credit: SCseagoat
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Favorite View:
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When the time comes I hope my permanent view is as good as this!
When the time comes I hope my permanent view is as good as this!
Credit: SCseagoat
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Well Tuolumne can’t be all just laying around (well I suppose it could) … but one of my long time objectives has been to climb up Cathedral Peak. And finally, today was going to be the day. The start from the car was a beautiful blue sky morning.
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Beautiful sunny morning!
Beautiful sunny morning!
Credit: SCseagoat
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The beautiful hike there
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The beautiful hike, ahhh...just a few clouds, nice white and fluffy!
The beautiful hike, ahhh...just a few clouds, nice white and fluffy!
Credit: SCseagoat
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Mike looking chipper on the hike
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Mike looking chipper.
Mike looking chipper.
Credit: SCseagoat
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And then, so close, yet so far….the sky, the sky, the increasingly gray sky. Not five minutes after this picture was taken the first few large drops of rain started.
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So close, yet so far, the gray, moisture laden clouds moving in...boo ...
So close, yet so far, the gray, moisture laden clouds moving in...boo hoo
Credit: SCseagoat
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Seeing the storm clouds roll in, over Eichorn, I think.
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Eichorn (I think) watching storm clouds move in
Eichorn (I think) watching storm clouds move in
Credit: SCseagoat
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Arghhhh….no, no, no and the thunder, BOOM BOOM,…the only wise thing…retreat. All the way back to the car it was booming and booming but only little sprinkles…until the car, then it opened up. We were pretty lucky. So what to do but head down to TPR to say hi to Lynnie and get a bite to eat.
Yes, the skies did open up in all their splendor
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Rain, HEAVY, and even a little hail mixed in.
Rain, HEAVY, and even a little hail mixed in.
Credit: SCseagoat
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Ahh…Lynnie, my hero…so much fun watching her run around taking care of everyone at TPR…you’d think she was 25 years younger! I just love that woman. She is truly one of a kind…I can't think of a bigger heart than hers.
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Lynnie .... they don't come with much bigger hearts!
Lynnie .... they don't come with much bigger hearts!
Credit: SCseagoat
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Team Babe and Tradmaster Phillipe have yet to arrive after driving all night from LAX so Michael and I set out to do a few things. We had an Old School Climbing day when we ran into long time Yosemite climber Chuck Clance who joined us for some easy climbing. No gear? No problem…old school 3 wraps and away you go…
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Who needs a harness? Not Chuck!
Who needs a harness? Not Chuck!
Credit: SCseagoat
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We met another long time climbing couple that were down from Oregon. Although their passion is now ultra running (like they don’t go out for a “run” unless its 20 or 30 K…for starters. ) They still like to occasionally climb and they have hung on to their original climbing shoes…in this case Fires from who knows exactly when, probably at least 30 years ago.
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Jan smoothly climbing in her 30 year old Fires.
Jan smoothly climbing in her 30 year old Fires.
Credit: SCseagoat
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Getting ready to rap down after the set up of a top rope. I actually enjoy rapping but until “over the edge” I’m close to petrified. Once I’m on my way, it’s all good.
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I'm not Catholic but always think that Catholic prayers would be appro...
I'm not Catholic but always think that Catholic prayers would be appropriate here.
Credit: SCseagoat
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All good now, I'm committed.
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Relaxed now, commitment made
Relaxed now, commitment made
Credit: SCseagoat
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Some easy climbing for Ferretlegger and fun climbing for me.
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Mike doing some easy warmups
Mike doing some easy warmups
Credit: SCseagoat
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Fun easy climb <br/>
Fun easy climb

Credit: SCseagoat
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One afternoon Michael and I stopped in the Mountaineering store to get some webbing to make swami belts. We were planning on doing some rock scrambling and did didn’t want to carry harnesses and unnecessary heavy stuff (Geezerdom or Smartdom?) Well anyway, when inquiring about the webbing and explaining what we were going to do with it, the young clerk looked perplexed and said “ah, they don’t really do that anymore…and I don’t know how to do it, like, are you guys doing something for the Smithsonian?” We said we knew how to “do it” and no we weren’t doing something for the Smithsonian. So to get the measurement correct I did three quick spins with the webbing around my waist. Oops, too fast, dizziness and even a slight wave of nausea (can you believe it??? Getting old ain’t for weenies). Anyway I tried to act all cool, kinda leaning on the glass counter carefully inspecting whatever gear was on display thinking it would not be nice to puke all over this case. So I waited while Michael did his spins, he did fine, no dizziness. Then they were giving me the expectant look, like when was I going to to unwrap so it could be measured and paid for. Ummm, I thought, 3 spins now the other way???? Oh boy, so I kinda discreetly (hopefully) shimmied and shucked and got the webbing to drop at my feet so I could just step out of it. It all worked out with no puking.
We headed off to DAFF Dome to do reconnaissance on some climbs. I particularly wanted to check out some of the climbs in the Wind Tunnel area. We didn’t go up that side but mainly checked out the stuff on the west side of DAFF. We checked out the Western Front and griped about the run out to the first bolts. True Tuolumne style. Then we kept moving on.
Some unknown climbers on the iconic Western Crack. They were doing quite well with only occasional “f*ck”.
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The lovely West Crack.
The lovely West Crack.
Credit: SCseagoat
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Euros on another icon: Bombs over Tokyo. How’d I know they were Euros? The “f*cks’s” were so melodic and just lovely sounding.
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The iconic Bombs over Tokyo challenging some  Euros.
The iconic Bombs over Tokyo challenging some Euros.
Credit: SCseagoat
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Michael and I ambled further down to what I think was the back section of the Wind Tunnel and ended up doing some rock scrambling. I had hoped to go up to the back side of the Wind Tunnel but the headwall looked a little dicey and of course, we left our webbing in the car…duh.
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Pretty sure this is the back side of the Wind Tunnel on Daff.
Pretty sure this is the back side of the Wind Tunnel on Daff.
Credit: SCseagoat
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Well eventually the Team Babes and their trusty TradGod Phillipe arrived. The first morning we did an invasion into the Western Front basically taking it over. There was Fanny, Eric, Christy, Ted, Ben, Michael, Phillipe, me and I think I am missing one or two others (Geezer brain). After a morning on the Western Front some of us went around the South Flank. For me, the hike up the South Flank was sufficient play for me that day. Some days you just know the approach is the “climb for the day” . So I caught some view pics while Ben, Fanny, and Michael stayed to climb.
Invasion of the Western Front
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Western Front invadion
Western Front invadion
Credit: SCseagoat
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Phillipe tops out
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Phillipe tops out!
Phillipe tops out!
Credit: SCseagoat
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Mike on New Tricks for Old Dogs
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Michael on the Western Front, Daff Dome
Michael on the Western Front, Daff Dome
Credit: SCseagoat
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Fanny on Green Eggs and Ham (I think)
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Fanny on The Western Front
Fanny on The Western Front
Credit: SCseagoat
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Eric on the Western Front
Eric on the Western Front
Credit: SCseagoat
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View pics from South Flank.
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view from South Flank of Daff Dome
view from South Flank of Daff Dome
Credit: SCseagoat
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At Tenaya, while folks are swimming and cooling off, Phillipe and Fanny do the time tested route planning using the dust on the car. In this case I believe they are planning Zee Tree route for the next day.
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Ah yes, route planning using car dust...who needs a Topo Guide?  Check...
Ah yes, route planning using car dust...who needs a Topo Guide? Check those guns on Phillipe
Credit: SCseagoat
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And of course dinner back at the campground around the trusty bear locker. So much for the deluxe-bug-house-over-the-picnic-table set up we had. Eventually Mother Hen(pecker), me, shooed them into the deluxe-bug-house-over-the-picnic-table. The evening was spent pouring over climbing guides as we pick out things for everyone: Team Babes members that want to hone their leading skills, Team Geezer members that want to maintain/regain their 10b/c leading skills and me that wants those lower numbers with no “R”. Good luck to me in Tuolumne.
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Bear locker...who needs a picnic table? <br/>
Bear locker...who needs a picnic table?

Credit: SCseagoat
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One of our days Michael and I went down to Saddlebag Lake and took the water taxi to the back of the lake and did the hike around the small lakes back up there. Nice hike, a lot of rocky scree, which after awhile I get so tired of. Here I am on the last small rocky scree ascent. It was pretty back there and tons of people fishing.
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Ohhhh.  More screeeeee <br/>
Ohhhh. More screeeeee

Credit: SCseagoat
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Pretty back there...
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View from back of Saddlebag Lake on the trail
View from back of Saddlebag Lake on the trail
Credit: SCseagoat
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Even though the Mobile Station is the preferred place to fill yer pie hole nowadays, Michael loves the trips down memory lane and we never miss Nicelys. His eyes get misty as he recalls the antics of the past days of “all-you-can-eat” and how gracious the climbers were about it.
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The indisputable Nicelys.  Actually their artwork and pics inside are ...
The indisputable Nicelys. Actually their artwork and pics inside are really nice! No climber pics though.
Credit: SCseagoat
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Late one night as I stagger up to the john, as I sit on the crapper my headlamp illuminates the door latch. As I rub the sleep from my eyes, I think “no way”. Yup way,… gotta get a pic of this tomorrow. The next day as I creep into the crapper (what pervert takes a camera into the crapper, anyway)…I get the pic. And I laugh, thinking about the marketers for that product and how they must have sat around one Friday night with a bunch of beers and thought up this product tag line!
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Credit: SCseagoat
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So Team Babes are back to their cubicles while Team Geezer plan their return to Tuolumne next week to keep strong on those 10b/c leads! and I get all giggly wiggly thinking about Cathderal, Puppy Dome and Pothole Dome. Phillipe the TradMaster will continue to nurture his flock and keep them in awe around the camp fire as he shares the exploits of younger years Team Geezer and how even taking a crap could be an epic event. And me, MotherHen(pecker), Cathedral Peak still has an unchecked box next to my tick list.

Susan

  Trip Report Views: 2,391
SCseagoat
About the Author
SCseagoat is a trad climber from Santa Cruz.

Comments
Seamstress

Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
  Jul 19, 2013 - 03:41pm PT
TFPU
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Jul 19, 2013 - 04:04pm PT
Fun! I really miss the Meadows now after reading this TR.

John
Captain...or Skully

climber
Boise, ID
  Jul 19, 2013 - 04:15pm PT
Damn fine trip report. TFPU there Seagoat gal.
You rock.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
  Jul 19, 2013 - 04:24pm PT
Sweet. A lot of fun and Catholic rapping...
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
  Jul 19, 2013 - 05:08pm PT
Are you doing something for the Smithsonian?

Classic!

Great TR and I hope to join you next year.

Jan
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Jul 19, 2013 - 08:32pm PT
Go geezers!!!
johntp

Trad climber
Punter, Little Rock
  Jul 19, 2013 - 09:08pm PT
Yay! I've spent many mornings at Nicely's fueling up for a day or weekend in Tuolumne.

And +1 on Lynnie.
FRUMY

Trad climber
Bishop,CA
  Jul 19, 2013 - 08:46pm PT
TFPU
10b4me

Social climber
Lida Junction
  Jul 20, 2013 - 01:16am PT
Nicelys is dangerous
SCseagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Author's Reply  Jul 20, 2013 - 05:03pm PT
Continue to keep your favorite climbing tagalong in the loop please.

Dearest Ms Cait...you are hardly a tag along....Ms Crusher!

Couple days and we're headed back to Tuolumne. I'll PM as we firm up plans

Susan

Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
  Jul 20, 2013 - 05:21pm PT
Always enjoy your trip reports, especially those involving the Ghastly Gasping Geezers!

Hope to see you, Ferretlegger, and Guck this Fall at Facelift. Sullly too! I think I'll have enough time to recover from my travelling by then. I arrive back in Denver on the 23rd after 3 weeks of climbing in the Dolomites.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Jul 20, 2013 - 06:42pm PT
Geezers crushing......can't beat that! Y'all sure do know how to have fun
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
  Jul 20, 2013 - 08:40pm PT
So glad you all had a great time! It was fun to read along with your travels.

Hope to meet you both out on the rocks one of these days!
Phyl
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
  Jul 20, 2013 - 11:00pm PT
Let's hear it for the geezers!

Ok, the babes too...
SCseagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Author's Reply  Jul 22, 2013 - 12:17pm PT
I arrive back in Denver on the 23rd after 3 weeks of climbing in the Dolomites.

You freakin' animal! Need a Sherpa? Dang I'm jealous. But we"ll be out on the water then so I guess you're humping your own bags. But for sure, at Facelift...save some climbing stoke!

Oh yeah, late afternoon Stately.


Susan

LilaBiene

Trad climber
Technically...the spawning grounds of Yosemite
  Jul 22, 2013 - 01:34pm PT
Awesome!!! Thanks for a very uplifting TR and for making me laugh over and over!!!

Looking forward to seeing you guys at Facelift!!!!!
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