Trip Report
Tallulah Gorge, Laurel Knob, Looking Glass, Linville Gorge - a Southern High Country Sampler (Photo Intensive)
Wednesday October 13, 2010 5:28pm
DISCLAIMER - THERE IS NO GOOD CLIMBING IN THE SOUTH

After two months living the dream in the Sierra this summer, returning to the grind of daily life was like clipping a peregrine's wings. A month in the humidity of Florida's Gulf beaches - beautiful, but surfless - was about 30 days too long. Time to hit the road.

First stop - Tallulah Gorge. DENIED. Got damnt bureaucrats. What the f*#k do you mean you don't issue permits after 4pm!? Its 4:15. And why do I need a f*#king permit to climb in a 200' gorge? Where's the damned guard that took my 5 bucks!? Welcome to the South.
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Tallulah Gorge - stunning view, quirky access.
Tallulah Gorge - stunning view, quirky access.
Credit: The Alpine
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Oh well - lets blast up to Laurel Knob - that place looks big and we've never climbed there.

{sleep}

Prime day for some slab:
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Foreshortened view of Laurel Knob.
Foreshortened view of Laurel Knob.
Credit: The Alpine
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Oooh, Fathom Direct looks cool. Check out that featured water runnel waaay up there.

WTF!? 20 ft above my last gear and 20 more to go to the anchor!? I hate runout slab climbing. Scares the shite outta me.

{insert bailure aka descending rhythm}

At least we found a good spot to contemplate the meaning of slab climbing.
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Credit: The Alpine
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Aight, we need some flow. Bust out the shredsleds.
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Front yard dirt jumpin' and pump trackin' in NC.
Front yard dirt jumpin' and pump trackin' in NC.
Credit: The Alpine
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The shred sesh was good. So good in fact we rode again the next day in the Dupont State Forest. That place has some awesome trails.

Visit on sirbikesalot.com


After riding 15ish miles in Dupont, we boogied on up to the north end of Looking Glass to get in our multi-sport day.
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Looking Glass from the Blue Ridge Parkway.
Looking Glass from the Blue Ridge Parkway.
Credit: The Alpine
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Now THIS is what I'm talkin' 'bout. Gimme the steep.
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The steeps of Looking Glass' north side.  So damn good.
The steeps of Looking Glass' north side. So damn good.
Credit: The Alpine
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Jimmy linking the first 2 pitches of The Womb up to the crux alcove.
Jimmy linking the first 2 pitches of The Womb up to the crux alcove.
Credit: The Alpine
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Jimmy following the crux pitch.  The crux seems easier these days - a ...
Jimmy following the crux pitch. The crux seems easier these days - a new jug seems to have appeared.
Credit: The Alpine
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Jimmy onsighting one of the most amazing pitches anywhere - Waste Not ...
Jimmy onsighting one of the most amazing pitches anywhere - Waste Not Want Not. You dyno to the ledge from there...
Credit: The Alpine
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Thanks Looking Glass. You never disappoint.

Now, lets go get some more steep.

Hawksbill anyone?
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The view from the top of Hawksbill in the Linville Gorge.
The view from the top of Hawksbill in the Linville Gorge.
Credit: The Alpine
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This place is home to some of the smallest holds you'll EVER pull on. So crisp, so incut, so small, so good!

Its also home to some steep-ass granite(ish) climbing.
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The steep classic - Lost in Space.
The steep classic - Lost in Space.
Credit: The Alpine
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Jimmy on Carpe Freeum.
Jimmy on Carpe Freeum.
Credit: The Alpine
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The Linville Salute?
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Credit: The Alpine
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OK, our time is running out. We've had this nagging feeling in our guts ever since we got hosed at Tallulah. Rematch on the way home? Definitely...

All signs pointed to yes as we headed towards northern Georgia wondering if we'd pull it off.
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T and A.  Pumpkin style.
T and A. Pumpkin style.
Credit: The Alpine
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As I walk into the Tallulah Gorge visitor center - I had a good feeling. Until they started lecturing me...
"Ya'll experienced climbers?"
"Yep."
"Ya'll know its all lead climbin' down thar right?"
"Uhhh, ya."
"Aight, well here's how yi git down thar..."
"I can see the approach trail from here, thanks."
"Well, I got tuh giv youz the proper orientation."

Shoot me now.

Holy sh#t Jimmy! We pulled it off!
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Jimmy starting up the first pitch of Punk Wave at Tallulah Gorge.
Jimmy starting up the first pitch of Punk Wave at Tallulah Gorge.
Credit: The Alpine
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Yeeeeewwwwww!
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Jimmy heading into the crux on Punk Wave while spectators watch in the...
Jimmy heading into the crux on Punk Wave while spectators watch in the distance.
Credit: The Alpine
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Jimmy after the crux thinking: "Well, the friction's not quite as good...
Jimmy after the crux thinking: "Well, the friction's not quite as good as NC granite."
Credit: The Alpine
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FIN

Just because:
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T and A.  Pumpkin style.
T and A. Pumpkin style.
Credit: The Alpine
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  Trip Report Views: 7,888
The Alpine
About the Author
The Alpine is a big wall climber from Florida. Check out his excuse of a website at www.highexposures.com

Comments
Dalyte

Trad climber
Nevada
  Oct 13, 2010 - 05:32pm PT
Damn, that is a nice place. Thank for awesome pics.
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
  Oct 13, 2010 - 05:37pm PT
Great TR!

Always fun climbing in NC. And, eatin' BBQ...
Tony Bird

climber
Northridge, CA
  Oct 13, 2010 - 05:57pm PT
now show us some florida big walls.

:-)

seriously, didn't know it got this good out east. thanks for the post.
The Alpine

climber
The Sea
Author's Reply  Oct 13, 2010 - 06:16pm PT
Ha. This is about as "big" as the walls get in FL.

bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
  Oct 13, 2010 - 06:40pm PT
Excellent TR!
Tony Bird

climber
Northridge, CA
  Oct 13, 2010 - 06:56pm PT
i started climbing in '78 in new mexico, then got dragged to florida by a soon-to-be ex-wife. got into high-rise form carpentry in the tampa bay area, and i taught fellow crew members the joys of a hip belay while dangling out over 5 stories to chop expansion bolts. before i came along, you had to do it free solo. i don't think osha had been invented yet.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
  Oct 13, 2010 - 07:31pm PT
I think I've been gone from NC too long...I can't even hang onto anything that's not an under-vertical splitter anymore. Thanks!
mongrel

Trad climber
Truckee, CA
  Oct 13, 2010 - 08:07pm PT
EYEBROWS! We want eyebrows! Those delectable maddening thousands of enticing but not very good Looking Glass features. Eyebrows!
CubicleNation

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
  Oct 13, 2010 - 09:33pm PT
As someone who cut my teeth learning to climb in NC in 1985-1987, this brings back lots of good memories.
seth kovar

climber
Reno, NV
  Oct 13, 2010 - 09:58pm PT
Sweet, thanks for the TR!!!!!!
Good Stuff!!!!!
Slater

Trad climber
Central Coast
  Oct 13, 2010 - 10:16pm PT
great outta state TR! Funny too!
Thorgon

Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
  Oct 13, 2010 - 11:04pm PT
Stellar TR, but you missed Stone Mtn. & Whitesides! They were my haunts for 12 years and damn I miss'em (85'-97')... Stone Mtn Yankee Go Home, Father Knows Best, Captian Crunch, Closer to the Heart, Rainy Day Women, Grand Funk railroad, Strawberry Perserves, Indian Look out Dirtect,SS, Teardrop, Bowl Games, Whitesides, Gom Jabber to New Traditions, Blarney Stone, Volunteer Wall, Looking Glass, Tits & Beer, Peregrine, Bloody Crack, Rat's Ass, The Seal (we put the SS cable in.), Glass Menagerie, Invisible Airwaves, Rowins Route, Ah Hell you are right there is NO GOOD CLIMBING in the South!!!

Thor

P.P.S. Always fun climbing in the South and eatin' Pickled Pigs Feet
with a cold beer!
The Alpine

climber
The Sea
Author's Reply  Oct 13, 2010 - 11:29pm PT
Glad you guys are enjoying the TR.

Tony - small world. I live and work in the Tampa area. St Petersburg specifically.

Thor - don't even get me started on the rest of the routes at Looking Glass' north side. I'm friggin' obsessed. Its cool you put that ss cable in on the Seal - I know it well.
Takin the whip off the Menag:
Thorgon

Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
  Oct 13, 2010 - 11:44pm PT
I had to duct tape the end closed and worked on getting it through for about a half hour!!! Tope rope Killer Whale!!

Has anyone cleaned The 'Green Gully' on The Seal, should be fun once it is cleaned, I had quite the grass stains after trying to lead that thing on aid!!!

P.M. me with any stories of your adventures!


Thor
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Oct 13, 2010 - 11:43pm PT
Alpine, thanks for the memories,
I've climbed at Looking glass and hawksbill many times. Next time hit Shortoff, fantastic climbing!
Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Oct 14, 2010 - 01:51am PT
Sweet TR thanks for posting.
Les

Trad climber
Bahston
  Oct 14, 2010 - 09:03am PT
NIIIIIICE!!! Done a bit of that southern climbing myself - love that place. Alpinist #25 had a piece on Laurel Knob, with photos by my friend Scott Perkins, a local (Atlanta) guy.
J. Werlin

Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
  Oct 14, 2010 - 11:52am PT
bump for the Dukes of Hazard.
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Oct 14, 2010 - 01:07pm PT
Thanks for the memories man. I lived in the Derty Sizzouth for 12 years and am back out in California now. Man I miss Tallullah Gorge sometimes. Digital Delight is soooo nice, so is Mescaline Daydream.

Here's a couple shots from Whitesides OR back in 2000.
Way to git er dun!
WBraun

climber
  Oct 14, 2010 - 01:12pm PT

Why is this man holding onto the rope instead of the rock?

No wonder he fall ....
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
  Oct 14, 2010 - 01:39pm PT
Do they still have live timber rattlers in a glass case in the Tallulah visitors center?
Crag Rat

Trad climber
SC
  Oct 14, 2010 - 02:07pm PT
I thought you were going to do Reflections? Call me when you head back this way.
The Alpine

climber
The Sea
Author's Reply  Oct 14, 2010 - 02:43pm PT
Crag Rat - Reflections didn't pan out. I'll be back soon though.
BMcC

Trad climber
Livermore
  Oct 14, 2010 - 06:38pm PT
Nice climbing pics!
graniteclimber

Trad climber
The Illuminati -- S.P.E.C.T.R.E. Division
  Nov 15, 2010 - 03:03pm PT
Thanks!
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
  Nov 15, 2010 - 03:17pm PT
Cool pics! I think this TR would get more hits if you had titled it:
Tallulah's Gorge and Laurel's Knobs Through the Looking Glass. But it was still enjoyable!
Bob Ordner

Trad climber
Spokane
  Nov 24, 2010 - 05:46pm PT
Many thanks for the great TR,
Those photos bring back a flood of good memories,in particular Punk Wave my first lead in that grade...what a fantastic route put in by Shannon Stegg.
Thanks Again
Bob Ordner Spokane WA
Geno

Trad climber
Reston, VA
  Nov 24, 2010 - 06:12pm PT
Great photos of Talulla Gorge. Like Bob Ordner said, they bring back great memories. Punk Wave is the mega classic. Also remember climbs called Flying Frog, BT Express and Step Across. Had a lot of fun there with Jack Chislet, John Vermont and Rob Robinson.

Bob, great to read your note. Enjoyed climbing with you at Jamestown.

Gene Smith
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Oct 17, 2011 - 09:56pm PT
That looks like some great crack climbing. Went to looking glass when I was a noob 20+ years ago. Didn't get too far but would love to go back.
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