Trip Report
Take A Leap and Eagle Lake Buttress
Monday September 10, 2012 10:52pm
Had a nice weekend. Nephew Chris came down from Eugene. Picked him up at the Amtrak in San Jose and headed for Lover's Leap. Perfect timing as the guy who first took me climbing in 1974 was going to be staying at South Lake Tahoe over the weekend and we were going to get together and do a climb or two.

Them boys: looked a bit like Johnny B. when he was young and a 20-year-old Chuck Pratt

top left corner top right corner
Credit: Mike Bolte
bottom left corner bottom right corner

Got up there and the boys romped up Bear's Reach.

top left corner top right corner
Credit: Mike Bolte
bottom left corner bottom right corner
top left corner top right corner
Chris and his shadow
Chris and his shadow
Credit: Mike Bolte
bottom left corner bottom right corner
top left corner top right corner
Credit: Mike Bolte
bottom left corner bottom right corner

Saturday I was going to join my old (way old) friends and do Eagle Lake Buttress. Bit of a slog up there. Nice stroll to Eagle Lake, then an hour or so up the endless slabs. But, three great pitches up cracks, steep faces and a nice little overhang at the top. A really nice day out with friends I've climbed with for almost 40 years. I think our combined age on the two ropes was around 250 years.

top left corner top right corner
40 years of history with these folks
40 years of history with these folks
Credit: Mike Bolte
bottom left corner bottom right corner
top left corner top right corner
Climbed Eagle Way - hard to describe. Dihedral just right of center, t...
Climbed Eagle Way - hard to describe. Dihedral just right of center, then up the big face/arete then summit blocks to a great summit
Credit: Mike Bolte
bottom left corner bottom right corner
top left corner top right corner
The nice first pitch
The nice first pitch
Credit: Mike Bolte
bottom left corner bottom right corner

Got back in time to catch the boys finishing up The Line

top left corner top right corner
Credit: Mike Bolte
bottom left corner bottom right corner

They had a good day. Surrealistic Pillar with the Direct Start, Beer Can Direct, and the Line.

Only half a day on Sunday. The Thornburg photo of Powerlust had grabbed the kid's imagination. Trudged up to the Main Ledge and they both led it and liked it.

top left corner top right corner
John starting Powerlust
John starting Powerlust
Credit: Mike Bolte
bottom left corner bottom right corner
top left corner top right corner
John getting some air at the crux. Here is the beta - righthand thumb ...
John getting some air at the crux. Here is the beta - righthand thumb mantle and reach, stretch, reach, stretch some more then give up and launch for a good hold
Credit: Mike Bolte
bottom left corner bottom right corner
top left corner top right corner
Credit: Mike Bolte
bottom left corner bottom right corner
top left corner top right corner
Credit: Mike Bolte
bottom left corner bottom right corner

We chatted with some nice folks heading up Corrugation Corner - have some photos of you guys up there, send me a note via ST

top left corner top right corner
The Corrugation Corner people
The Corrugation Corner people
Credit: Mike Bolte
bottom left corner bottom right corner

Also saw my first Green-Tailed Towhee for the Bird Thread.
top left corner top right corner
Credit: Mike Bolte
bottom left corner bottom right corner



  Trip Report Views: 1,873
Mike Bolte
About the Author
Mike Bolte is a trad climber from Planet Earth.

Comments
MisterE

Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
  Sep 10, 2012 - 11:07pm PT
Nice! We were there the last 4 days and ran into the kids at the base of the Main Wall.

Sorry we missed the rest of the group.
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Author's Reply  Sep 11, 2012 - 02:25pm PT
Ah! sorry I missed you Mister E. and Justthemaid!

And, I think the expression is "old guys drool" not "old guys rule"

EDIT: Karo - that was what I wanted to do Sunday morning! The #6 would have been such an improvement over the #11 hex I used the last time I did Traveler's Buttress.
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
  Sep 10, 2012 - 11:18pm PT
that new #6 would have been perfect for travellers buttress, step it up!
Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Sep 10, 2012 - 11:26pm PT
Bzzzzunum[{P!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Sep 11, 2012 - 10:08am PT
Awesomeness bump!
Thanks!
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
  Sep 11, 2012 - 10:27am PT
Great pics! Sorry we missed you guys.

It was a great weekend. Temps were perfect. The crowds were not as bad as I imagined they would be.. probably because the holiday weekend was last weekend.

splitclimber

climber
Sonoma County
  Sep 11, 2012 - 02:21pm PT
Cool. Eagle Lake Buttress is a cool spot.
Go