Trip Report
TWO NEW & MEGA-AWESOME Routes on Hamilton Dome! (TOO MANY PHOTOS)
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Wednesday December 23, 2015 4:46pm
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The giant West Face of the Hamilton Dome turned out to be a home to fantastic rock, limitless possibilities and the best moderate route I have climbed in the High Sierra! It is almost as wide as it is tall - about 1,700-1,800 feet of climbing from the base to the summit. First, I noticed the giant slab from the approach to Hamilton Lake. The North Ridge and the West Face had routes, but I didn't know of any established climbs going up the South Face, which looked as big and impressive as the North. Several weeks later, Brian and I got a closer look, while climbing a new route on Eagle Scout Creek Dome. "The face is BIG, the rock looks good!"....next week we set up a camp in Eagle Scout Creek and found the rock to be even better than we imagined! :)
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South Face of Hamilton Dome with the route outline
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Base of the Hamlet Buttress. Subliminal verses goes up the sunlit buttress to the left. Two roofs can be seen in the photo.
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On the first day of climbing we started up a clean left facing dihedral that led to mostly moderate face climbing with a few cracks here and there. Two thirds up the formation we discussed the options above while having lunch on a giant balcony where a battalion could comfortably bivy. We settled for a chicken-head covered near-vertical fin to take us to the top. Plenty of other ways seemed less challenging, but the fin looked like the wildest option. It was very steep and tall - about 400 feet! Slinging the knobs and chicken heads allowed the leader to find adequate protection on otherwise crack-less monolith. We ran the rope out for 60 meters and simul climbed at times. Third pitch from the ledge, featured a wild jump across to gain the upper Hamilton Dome proper and exposed section of easy 5th to 4th class led us to the summit ridge. We thought we were lucky to find a route with such awesome climbing. I thought it was no worse than the mega classic South Face of the Charlotte Dome. To my surprise, the next day produced a route that was even better!
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Subliminal Verses goes up the sunlit buttress in the middle. One of the roofs is visible, just right of the prominent dihedral. The route later joins the higher dihedral, after which the angle kicks back.
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Heading for cracks!
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A cave?!
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Nice crack to a cruxy steep face on the Hamlet Buttress
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Cool fingercrack high on the Hamlet Buttress
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Woot!
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400 ft steep fin high on the Hamlet Buttress!
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Brian cranking on the steep fin. It is like a 5.9 steep jughaul, WELL protected by bomber chickenheads. No cracks or bolts on this pitch!
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Brian on top of the fin
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Looking down at the exposed fin
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Intermission
We picked a line that was steeper and more intimidating than the day prior. Even though we scoped a cool splitter at the base, it seemed like the only apparent crack in sight. Couple hundred feet above it was the first of the two major roofs that looked troublesome. After the long first pitch, we were psyched to find a hidden crack that led to the first of roofs. Prepared to aid climb it, it was awesome to pull over the first roof at easy 5.10. The cracks were hidden from the base, but turned out the route had plenty. Even though we brought a #4 and a 5 camalot, there was no need to carry gear larger than a #3!
As we gained elevation, our smiles grew bigger and we were blown away by the awesomeness of this climb. Three more pitches of fun cracks took us to the second roof, which was passed on monkey-bar-like jugs. Face climbing above required placement of a few bolts to keep the climbing adequately protected. Past the second bolt we traversed left to a belay station. After the traverse, the face features grow till they transform into large jugs that could easily be slung for protection. More chicken heads, two dihedrals, a bit of slab and several more cracks took us to the top of the difficulties. We climbed the route in seven LONG (full 60 meter pitches, with simul-climbing at times) pitches. Four more hundred feet of 3-5th class scrambling with an amazing view of the West Face took us to the top one more time. The summit panorama is one of the best in the whole range - Castle Rocks to the West, Eagle Scout Peak, Kaweahs and the Hamilton Spires to the East. All the rock spires (which had one or two ascents EVER) of Granite Creek to the South. The Angel Wings, Prism, Cherubim Dome, Mt. Stewart, the Globe and the Saber Ridge are seen to the North. A stunning summit with plenty of space to relax.
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Splittah! Woot! Start of the Subliminal Verses (IV 5.10).
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Couldn't believe the giant roof was perfectly protected and went at low 5.10! :)
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The rock was TOO GOOD!
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Cracks and great face features. Solid, without any trace of choss.
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A bit tilted, but hey, if it was that steep this pitch would be 5.11+! :)
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7/5 star granite!
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A few splitters to the top
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Brian with the West Face in the background
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This view..DOES NOT SUCK!
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Me enjoying the great day
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Heavenly camp
To descent, scramble east towards the notch. A short 4th class down-climb will take you to the first rap station - webbing around a horn. Three more rappells will take you to the notch. One sixty meter rope works well and the anchors are bomber. Even though at this point you may be really excited about the climb, or dreading the hike back, make sure to watch your ends and not get destructed till you are safe at the base!
The lengthy approach without a trail to the base of the formation is a blessing in disguise. For those who plan to venture out and repeat either of these climbs a true adventure is in store. There is no "best" way to get there, but plenty of options. A map and backcountry navigation skills are preferred. :) The camping in the upper Eagle Scout Creek is spectacular and there is plenty of rock around to find own new routes, scenic photo-ops and fishing would be incredible! Personally, I can't wait to go back there!
Hamlet Buttress (IV 5.9+ - 1,700 ft)
Subliminal Verses (IV 5.10a/b - 1,350 ft w/400 ft of 2-4th class to the summit) *
FA: Brian Prince and Musiyenko, Vitaliy (September 2015)
http://www.vividrea1ity.blogspot.com
Vitaliy M.
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About the Author
Vitaliy M. is an annoying gym climber from San Francisco. |
Comments
rwedgee
Ice climber
CA
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Dec 23, 2015 - 05:07pm PT
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Another WOW!
Great job.....again.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Dec 23, 2015 - 05:34pm PT
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Actually, too few photos. Bonus for vivid flower shot, though.
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ground_up
Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
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Dec 23, 2015 - 05:38pm PT
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This is granite porn.
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Nanobody
Trad climber
Fresno, CA
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Dec 23, 2015 - 05:58pm PT
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This is awesome. You are officially my new hero
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RyanD
climber
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Dec 23, 2015 - 06:16pm PT
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Righteous.
The fin for the win.
Hamilton lakes looks so stellar.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Dec 23, 2015 - 07:33pm PT
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Rad!!!
Those look like beautiful lines. And the stone is gorgeous.
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johntp
Trad climber
Punter, Little Rock
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Dec 23, 2015 - 07:40pm PT
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Nice. BBST.
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Larry Nelson
Social climber
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Dec 23, 2015 - 08:02pm PT
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Dude!!!!!!
Your TR's just keep getting better.
Great pictures and text/info.
TFPU
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Dec 23, 2015 - 08:12pm PT
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Vitaliy M, crushing again.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Dec 23, 2015 - 08:26pm PT
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Awesome. Even a chickenhead pitch. Sweet sends.
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mrtropy
Trad climber
Nor Cal
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Dec 23, 2015 - 08:27pm PT
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Very nice Thanks
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Dec 23, 2015 - 08:38pm PT
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TFPU
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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Dec 23, 2015 - 08:57pm PT
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These images work far better than ViagraŽ
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Dec 23, 2015 - 10:23pm PT
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Wow, that fin sounds incredible. My hands were experiencing touch and muscle memory while I read this - nice warm Sierra granite, not too smooth, not too rough, fingers lapping over the edge on a plate... yes!
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Dec 23, 2015 - 10:53pm PT
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outstanding!
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Dec 23, 2015 - 11:33pm PT
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What they all said,, . . . ! Crushing it and sharing it - well sprayed!
This Stuff never gets old, dude.
Tha best places on earth. Sky and rock - granite high all the time !
From the looks of it nursing pays & time off in chunks, big chunks.
This is what those of us from the old school, (the ones who embrace the past ways) love to see.
Building up adding smokin' hot rock climbing content.
heavy miles, Far from anywhere that age now limits us from going to our selves.
Really !
Thanx from small rock hell
Merry Christmas , Happy New Year, hope you send your dreams this year .
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chill
climber
The fat part of the bell-curve
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Dec 24, 2015 - 07:28am PT
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Vitaly's trip reports beat the hell out of the political threads.
Years ago I used look out across the domes of the South Platte in Colorado and think about how there was a lifetime of climbing there, but for both quality and quantity the high Sierra gets the win.
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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Dec 24, 2015 - 07:37am PT
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The prolific Mr. M. Outstanding all around. What is a good resource for an overview of the general area, Secor?
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Dec 24, 2015 - 11:12am PT
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I think I'll refer to 2015 as The Year of Vitaliy, but I think I may need to give the same title to 2016 as well, if you keep going at this pace. Another fantastic trip report. Thanks much.
John
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Dec 24, 2015 - 11:24am PT
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You do injustice to the term 'slacker generation', sir.
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H
Mountain climber
there and back again
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Dec 24, 2015 - 12:17pm PT
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Fred Beckey better watch out.
You Da Man Vitaliy. Keep up the good work.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Dec 25, 2015 - 04:30am PT
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Another trip report by Vitaliy? I thought I told you to quit it. (:
Way to go, bro
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limpingcrab
Gym climber
Minkler, CA
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Dec 24, 2015 - 12:34pm PT
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You've come a long way from when I taught you how to climb
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Dec 24, 2015 - 12:34pm PT
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Excellent! Thanks for the routes, putting them on the list :-)
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WBraun
climber
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Dec 24, 2015 - 12:37pm PT
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These are very nice climbs you did there ........
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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Dec 24, 2015 - 12:49pm PT
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Speechless.
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Dec 28, 2015 - 06:26pm PT
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Great job V!!!
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Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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Dec 28, 2015 - 06:39pm PT
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Wow man those climbs look all time!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Author's Reply
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Dec 29, 2015 - 08:32am PT
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The prolific Mr. M. Outstanding all around. What is a good resource for an overview of the general area, Secor?
My trip reports from 2015? lol Seriously though, they highly likely have a lot more info than Secor. But there is of course much more losted in Secor as far as other routes. No useful map or description of the outline, as I remember. If you have any specific questions, you are welcome to email me. xxvitaliyxx@yahoo.com
Yes Cole, they were all time! :)
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 29, 2015 - 08:39am PT
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Very nice... thanks for sharing.
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limpingcrab
Gym climber
Minkler, CA
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Dec 29, 2015 - 08:42am PT
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Here's an overview
Hamilton towers have their own individual names now that they've been climbed, as they should.
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Dec 29, 2015 - 08:53am PT
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Excellent use of the outdoors!!
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Dec 29, 2015 - 10:46am PT
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Amazing finding that much good and untouched rock in this day and age. Great photos. Looks like a lot of fun!
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Rockies Obscure
Trad climber
rockiesobscure.com....Canada
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Dec 29, 2015 - 11:07am PT
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Nice WOOTS!
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craig morris
Trad climber
la
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Dec 29, 2015 - 11:33am PT
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Thanks, those look like some great well earned veiws. (';')
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gumbyKing
climber
Temporarily away from any good rock
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Dec 29, 2015 - 04:48pm PT
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Bump for killer climbing.
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Dec 29, 2015 - 09:05pm PT
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Unbelievably sick! Haters gonna hate, and I am hating hard from my armchair...wondering where I went wrong to not be doing this in my backyard!!!
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lars johansen
Trad climber
West Marin, CA
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Dec 30, 2015 - 09:05am PT
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Stellar! Thanks-lars
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Author's Reply
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Dec 30, 2015 - 03:30pm PT
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Unbelievably sick! Haters gonna hate, and I am hating hard from my armchair...wondering where I went wrong to not be doing this in my backyard!!!
None of those are going anywhere...and there is a ton of stuff to do there!!! So don't hate!
Even though, you won't find anything as cool as what we found! Or will you?! Never know till you try it, that's the beauty of FAs! If someone told me Brian and I will be able to climb a new route better than the gang banged line on Charlotte Dome, I would not believe it a few years ago. Everything is possible! Climbing is about saying YES WE CAN! :))
2016 - Year of the monkey!
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Larry Nelson
Social climber
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This TR needs to get bumped into 2016
Once again, great climbing content, photos, text, effort...Thanks for all your effort.
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