Trip Report
TR: Montuckans in Moab
Wednesday November 29, 2006 1:28pm
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It's a quarter till 4am and Pat's dead asleep next to me. I'm just south of SLC and he hardly notices as I exit and pull into our supermarket bivy. I can only manage to sleep for about an hour though; I’m too psyched and uncomfortable to get any real rest.
I’m back on the road and catching a beautiful sunrise outside of Green River when Pat finally comes too, he takes over and before I knew it, we were in the Castle Valley wash drinking coffee with some of the other Montuckans who had already fled south.
We quickly decided that the best thing for the head (besides the obvious) was to do a warm-up day in the Fishers…everything feels much more solid after that…
Entry Fee
Impish on Dock Rock
After that I’m not too sure what happened…the days that followed are a bit blurry…
The hype and crowds were said to be residing at the Creek, so we decided to stay away. Long Canyon seemed to be a better option.
Then a nice day on the Lighthouse Tower…
Liz on P1 of Northeastern Route
Psyched we talked Robin into gunning P2
On Thanksgiving the plan was to do the Fine Jade. Unfortunately once we crested the saddle we knew that the winds would be an issue. So we went on to check out the first pitches of ‘Where Have the Wild Things Gone’ and ‘Excommunication’. Cool stuff. Pics to come once acquired…
Some more random shots…
Another day on the Lighthouse…
Looking at P2 of Poseidon Adventure. Pat had been wanting for us to do this one for awhile now. Rightfully so; one of the coolest pitches I've ever done.
All smiles on this thing....
As we were hanging out we also got to see our buddies Apple and Palister on Infrared.
Next thing I knew I was in Denny's in SLC at 4:30am and the manager tells us as a waitress walks by, "I've been trying to tap that for 10 years..."
WTF? Thanks for the info friend.
Man we must look greasy...
Cheers,
Tom
TKingsbury
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About the Author TKingsbury is a trad climber from MT. |
Comments
yo
climber
Mudcat Spire
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Nov 29, 2006 - 01:43pm PT
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Hartouni told me to post on this thread.
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spyork
Trad climber
Tunneling out of prison
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Nov 29, 2006 - 01:50pm PT
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Wow, I'm jealous. And great pics. Thanks for sharing your adventure.
Steve
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handsome B
Gym climber
SL,UT
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Nov 29, 2006 - 02:03pm PT
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Great pics! How sketchy are the lighthouse tower routes?
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Mimi
climber
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Nov 29, 2006 - 03:34pm PT
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Thanks for the eye candy! An obvious good time in the desert.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Author's Reply
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Nov 29, 2006 - 03:39pm PT
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How sketchy are the lighthouse tower routes?
The Northeastern Route was a bit loose, not sure how much action it sees.
Poseidon Adventure is solid.
They share the same upper pitches
The last 15 foot pitch has no top anchors so you have to reverse it. The brother said it was super easy. According to him it's "5.concrete, there is no way you're gonna fall of that thing..."
I took his word for it...heh
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Ouch!
climber
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Nov 29, 2006 - 04:14pm PT
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Really great pictures.
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Hangerlessbolt
Trad climber
Portland, OR
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Nov 29, 2006 - 04:17pm PT
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Gneiss!
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Nov 29, 2006 - 04:28pm PT
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Looked like some nice bouldering. Where was that?
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Author's Reply
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Nov 29, 2006 - 04:41pm PT
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Thanks all.
as for the bouldering:
The roadside shots are the Buffalo Chip Boulder.
The other one is near Parriot Mesa....
Cheers,
Tom
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Nov 29, 2006 - 05:16pm PT
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Great shots, good times, "zonecrew". The last two days in the Big Sky state have been minus 10 degrees f, but that just gives bouldering in the 'lith that arctic alpine feel that makes ya tuff. See y'all when you get home--watch the roads for ice, not the ice from the roads.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Nov 29, 2006 - 06:01pm PT
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Looks like you did a good job avoiding crowded famous routes. Not even on Maverick -- what are those Long Canyon lines?
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maldaly
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Nov 29, 2006 - 06:08pm PT
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Hey TKingsbury,
Did I see you guys at the Cat Wall on Saturday? Whatever, can I poach that picture of Liz in out helmet for our website? It looks like she's having fun! Shoot me an email from the contact link on the trango website.
Thx,
Mal
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Author's Reply
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Nov 30, 2006 - 11:35am PT
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Not even on Maverick -- what are those Long Canyon lines?
We did 3 days in Long, one day being a Maverick *but* we ended up checking out the stuff further upcanyon beyond what is normally considered Mavrick. We also hit up the alcove that has Texas Two-Step and others I can't remember...
As for the other ones. One is Program Director on the Deadman's buttress, and the other is an unknown route just upcanyon from PD.
We also checked out the North Spur area aswell. Anyone here ever do 'Butt Pygmies on a Landscape'? That thing stands out in my mind....outstanding...
Hey Mal - check your email...
Cheers,
Tom
EDIT:
I'll get some more photos of the Long Canyon rounded up soon....
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
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Nov 30, 2006 - 11:38am PT
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Coooooooool
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Author's Reply
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Dec 8, 2006 - 05:30pm PT
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-----Update
I snagged a few more photos from my buddy Dom...but sill missing pics from two other sources....
Northeast Route
Hot Toddy
Butt Pygmies on a Landscape
alone in Long Canyon
More smiles on Poseidon Adventure
Cheers,
Tom
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Author's Reply
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Dec 20, 2006 - 04:34pm PT
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Kartch
climber
belgrade, mt
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Dec 20, 2006 - 05:10pm PT
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gettin psyched yo! ! !
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Crag Q
Trad climber
Louisville, Colorado
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Dec 20, 2006 - 05:51pm PT
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Great pictures!
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Zander
climber
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Dec 20, 2006 - 11:01pm PT
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Great pics.
thanks guys,
Zander
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Dec 20, 2006 - 11:33pm PT
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Viva la TR! Thanks.
Jealous,in the ATL.
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426
climber
☬
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Dec 21, 2006 - 09:05am PT
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Hey Tom, I think I climbed with "MT Pat" this summer...do you have his contact info?
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Author's Reply
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Dec 21, 2006 - 12:56pm PT
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Hey 426 - Cool. Pat is my brother, living here in the bozone. Shoot an email to my email listed on here. It's checked by both of us.
Some more shots from T-willy's D-Slr is all I'm missing now....
Cheers,
Tom
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Dec 21, 2006 - 03:23pm PT
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Thanks for upping the TR quotient!
'Always need more climbing pics -for snack's sake.
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ha-ha
climber
location
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Dec 21, 2006 - 05:23pm PT
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cool pic of Torpedo Bay, thing looks all pissed off and angry. the shipyard's a nice hang.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Author's Reply
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Feb 25, 2009 - 12:10pm PT
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Old TR Bump experiment
This is the cover that inspired us to get on the Poseidon Adventure...
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Entry Fee with the standard runout finish shown. The large flake offers the last protection. Photo: Chris McNamara
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