Trip Report
TEHIPITE VALLEY PART II: the biggest unclimbed wall in California
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Monday August 15, 2016 11:43am
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Well maybe it's not, I don't know. We've been thinking of it that way since our attempt last Summer just to build our excitement and motivation for the inevitable return.
This is a follow up to a trip report from last Summer when we bailed about 2/3 of the way up the wall.
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/TEHIPITE-frickin-VALLEY/t12804n.html
In the last few days, while I've been waiting for my hands to start working again, Vitaliy wrote a great trip report full of pictures and detailed accounts of some of the more memorable moments.
http://vividrea1ity.blogspot.com/2016/08/fa-watsi-wall-infinity-pool-vi-511-a2-r.html?m=1
For those of us with shorter attention spans I am going to take the "less is more" approach and try to recount this latest adventure in as few words as possible. Starting...........now
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Before trip, very sick, lose weight, not strong. Nervous. Vitaliy and Brian strong like ox, confident.
Heavy bags, far walk, sleep half way.
Beyond words. Like going back in time. Brian's first time, moving like kid in cocaine store.
Think wall grew bigger. Uh oh
Fish. Eat. Relax. Happy.
Jumanji giant dinosaur bugs everywhere! 2 rattlesnakes.
First day, simulclimb easy alternate start.
Stash water. Laugh some, talk some, poop some.
Rap rap rrrraaaappppp.
Sleep. Me anxious, want easy start. Brian and V excited, want direct start. Majority win.
Sunrise. I go first, big fun!
Next pitches scary. PTSD and stained underwear last year. Brian leads, thank you Brian.
4 more pitch. I lead easy, they lead hard, great climbing. On big ledge quick! Stoke!
V lead hard, Brian follow, me jug with water. Anchor sketchy, life flash before eyes.
Me lead. Pendulum.
Vitaliy lead hand cracks. Good stuff.
13 pitches, former high point, hopes high!
Brian try where I fail.
"Corner looks blank. This is f-ed up. I'm just gonna f-ing go for it, watch me!" Brian quote. Solid. Love Brian.
New high point, yay team!
I try right. Nope.
Brian try up. Maybe.
Dark.
Morning spoon.
Me lonely.
Brian aid. Loose rock. Vitaliy hide.
Vitaliy survive, bye bye bivvy!
Harding slot, tree edition. Sorry guys.
Water look yummy. Vitaliy thirsty. Daniel thirsty. Brian meth?
Climbing good!
Caving
So close. Taste it.
Holy crap. Bliss. Wow.
91 miles walked
9 days over two summers
21 pitches (totaling 3000+ ft of climbing)
2100 ft vertical
Thirsty, hungry, tired, emotions.... Happy
Descend. Ahhhhhh, water. Nudity.
Rest.
Bad hot trail. Long. Satisfaction. Home.
Unforgettable.
Red = route
Yellow = easier variations
Formation: Watsi Wall (watsi means "lost" in Mono)
Route: Infinity Pool, 5.11+ R A2, 21 pitches, VI
Special thanks to Vitaliy and Brian for being the best partners possible. They're both a rare combination of bad A mofos yet still really kind and patient when there's a weak link in the group.
Another special thanks to Norm who hiked in the day before us and carried our entire rack and a set of runners, left them at the campsite, fished and hiked back out. Norm is the man.
Thanks for reading and sorry that abbreviated text turned into caveman talk!
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Trip Report Views: 11,665 |
limpingcrab
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About the Author
limpingcrab is Daniel Jeffcoach, nice to meet you. |
Comments
Bascuela
Trad climber
Fresno, CA
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Aug 15, 2016 - 11:57am PT
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wow!
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Aug 15, 2016 - 11:59am PT
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Love the caveman talk. Makes more sense to us cavemen this way. Congrats and EPIC!
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EdwardT
Trad climber
Retired
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Aug 15, 2016 - 12:05pm PT
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Kickass trip report on a kickass climb.
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Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
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Aug 15, 2016 - 12:36pm PT
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BINGO! That's what I'm talking about. Nicely done!
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Aug 15, 2016 - 12:53pm PT
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Me think great.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Aug 15, 2016 - 12:54pm PT
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Way to bring home the mammoth. Nice pics too.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Aug 15, 2016 - 01:00pm PT
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Excellent, Daniel!
John
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Aug 15, 2016 - 01:04pm PT
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Burly
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
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Aug 15, 2016 - 01:04pm PT
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Top notch. A really great adventure. Thanks for sharing!
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crankster
Trad climber
No. Tahoe
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Aug 15, 2016 - 01:10pm PT
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Great! Short is sweet.
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craig morris
Trad climber
la
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Aug 15, 2016 - 01:13pm PT
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Thanks for the great trip report. That valley is a magical place. did you find the natural house?
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Nanobody
Trad climber
Fresno, CA
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Aug 15, 2016 - 01:18pm PT
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Way to go! You guys are the real deal!
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Slym
climber
Merced, CA
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Aug 15, 2016 - 01:35pm PT
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Freaking nice fishing spot.
Climb is cool too, I guess.
Killer report.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Aug 15, 2016 - 01:47pm PT
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Way to Go.
TFPU
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Aug 15, 2016 - 02:28pm PT
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Nice pics.....a little short on facts ie # of bolts,ratings of pitches and topo !
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SFDukie
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Aug 15, 2016 - 03:13pm PT
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This TR brought a huge smile to my face. Fantastic adventure-thanks for sharing.
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limpingcrab
Gym climber
Minkler, CA
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Author's Reply
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Aug 15, 2016 - 04:19pm PT
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Thanks for the great trip report. That valley is a magical place. did you find the natural house? We didn't find the house or the pictographs. It wasn't until we got home that we noticed they were both marked on our map. Next time!
Freaking nice fishing spot.
Climb is cool too, I guess.
Killer report. And I didn't even mention that I was trying to land a nice fish for dinner when a huge german brown ate it and broke my line! We watched the whole thing happen. That gave me a bigger rush than the climbing!
Nice pics.....a little short on facts ie # of bolts,ratings of pitches and topo ! Vitaliy's blog report has a lot more detail but I don't think any of us has drawn a topo.
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moacman
Trad climber
Montuckyian Via Canada Eh!
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Aug 15, 2016 - 04:17pm PT
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Well done .......Thanx for sharing...
Stevo
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Climberdude
Trad climber
Clovis, CA
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Aug 15, 2016 - 04:22pm PT
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Very nice, I will have to get back there sometime. I hope you will report this in the AAJ.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
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Aug 15, 2016 - 04:31pm PT
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Wow! Thanks for goin' big and keeping the report short so I don't derail my work productivity :)
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Aug 15, 2016 - 05:09pm PT
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Me like.
You brave.
Make new route. Long walk. Trout, yum. Me very proud to call you friend.
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kief
Trad climber
east side
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Aug 15, 2016 - 07:00pm PT
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Less is more! Awesome report. TFPU.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Aug 15, 2016 - 08:52pm PT
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Awesome report. Thanks for reminding me that I wasted my youth.
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ec
climber
ca
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Aug 15, 2016 - 09:58pm PT
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Oh, Yeah! I got pics o' that...Good Job!
 ec
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Aug 16, 2016 - 07:56am PT
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Wow, what a great adventure. I'm gonna go make the second ascent ..... said nobody ever.
I think you've been hanging around with that Russian guy too much, you're leaving behind all your articles in your writing.
Vitaliy's watermarks are slowly shrinking. C'mon Vitaliy, smaller still, you can do it.
See you guys in Yosemite in September/October?
Cheers and congrats!
P.S. Nice rainbow trout, eh?
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dirt claud
Social climber
san diego,ca
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Aug 16, 2016 - 08:21am PT
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Awesome trip report Limp, thanks. Looks like a memorable adventure
with solid partners. Killing me, gotta get back out to those beautiful mountains.
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Rockies Obscure
Trad climber
rockiesobscure.com....Canada
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Aug 16, 2016 - 09:45am PT
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Awesome!
This is what Supertopo once was, now it's only a long daily fight between the Right and Left parties.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Aug 16, 2016 - 10:08am PT
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TFPU
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O.D.
Trad climber
LA LA Land
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Aug 16, 2016 - 11:04am PT
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Wow! Some real-life climbing history made. Yes, Holy Crap!
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Aug 16, 2016 - 11:31am PT
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By the way, you need to work on your camera tilt Brah. Here you go. Now you're gnar.
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limpingcrab
Gym climber
Minkler, CA
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Author's Reply
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Aug 16, 2016 - 11:38am PT
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Good to know Mico. I think I get it.
Like this?
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Aug 16, 2016 - 12:12pm PT
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That's a bold route. Nice!
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Aug 16, 2016 - 03:35pm PT
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Oh my god this is killer
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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Aug 16, 2016 - 03:39pm PT
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Very impressive accomplishment and great TR!
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Gobie
Trad climber
Northern, Ca.
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Aug 16, 2016 - 07:03pm PT
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I remember catching some stellar trout on a ski pole with a spinner in Crown creek and having a great dinner out there. This crag has been on my mind for some time. Great to see someone else has the juice to go out there and bag it. The views up the canyon from the face of Tehipite remind us of how much stone is left un-turned in the Sierra.
Im interested in going on a recon trip in September and doing some fly fishing if anyone else is interested. I have been down in there a few times and have completed a couple of routes so I know my way around. PM me.
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JerryA
Mountain climber
Sacramento,CA
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Aug 17, 2016 - 08:08am PT
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There used to be lot's of rattlesnakes mentioned in past reports . Any this time ? The summit is a day-and-half hike from Wishon Reservoir ,has anyone rapped the Dome ?
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limpingcrab
Gym climber
Minkler, CA
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Author's Reply
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Aug 17, 2016 - 10:20am PT
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Im interested in going on a recon trip in September and doing some fly fishing if anyone else is interested. I have been down in there a few times and have completed a couple of routes so I know my way around. PM me. My brother and I tried to line up a September date for fishing but it didn't work out. We're gonna go in the third weekend of October and fish from Tehipite down to the confluence with the South Fork at Yucca Point. We'd prefer September but maybe we'll get lucky and find some fall spawning browns. (PM function hasn't worked for me the last 5 times I've tried)
There used to be lot's of rattlesnakes mentioned in past reports . Any this time ? The summit is a day-and-half hike from Wishon Reservoir ,has anyone rapped the Dome ? Brian saw a big one, Vitaliy saw a little one and I never saw one. I've hiked to the top of the dome but never rapped it. I think about half of the people who climb Tehipite approach from above. I'm pretty sure the new(ish) route Wall Of Ages can be rapped.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Aug 17, 2016 - 10:22am PT
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pHfft1 pHfffft.!!!!!
doble hit worthy respect!!!!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Aug 17, 2016 - 01:29pm PT
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Thank you for a great time and a great reminder of how mindblowing this trip was (in form of this report). Aside from funny, Daniel is very modest and although he acts like he did not do much on the climb, it is a lie. I believe it was a team effort and everyone contributed. Was an honor to be a part of this and be friends with you two, hope we find a few more of these gems and share adventures like this for years. Again, thank you!!!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Aug 17, 2016 - 01:55pm PT
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Natural house? Are you talking about the giant rock with a bivy cave underneath?
Would be nice to make a topo and post it on MP. Not sure anyone will ever repeat it, but honestly the climb is fairly good with challenging climbing. Wouldn't be too surprised if it is repeated, someone just did the second ascent of the route I recently did on Hitchcock and two ascents last weekrnd of one of the recent Whitney routes.
If I did not have a virus on my computer and was not busy with ongoing backcountry outings, I'd make one. But my only rest day in town (today) will be spent mostly relaxing and preparing to get back into the mountains, tomorrow! Maybe the fall or winter will be a better time to catch up on figuring out what the hell did we climb. :)
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shylock
Social climber
mb
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Aug 17, 2016 - 02:00pm PT
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Yup, Amazing time, place, climb, group. General mood after we got down was disbelief it all worked out. From the blank seams to the amount of water to the mini canyoneering descent. So much unknown. Honestly guys still can't believe it. Thanks
Brian
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SteveO
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Thank you so much for the incredible TR! And for reminding us all that there's still so much adventure left in places like the Sierra, if you're creative and willing to explore. I'm thoroughly impressed and inspired. Thank you
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i-b-goB
Big Wall climber
Nutty
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Way to finish up!
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RichS
Mountain climber
Pleasanton, CA
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Awesome report and photos. Thank you
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timmaly
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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WOW, awesome! Great work and TFPU.
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limpingcrab
Gym climber
Minkler, CA
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Author's Reply
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Oct 20, 2016 - 01:01pm PT
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Well, I went back to Tehipite again. Apparently my memory of approaches is poor. This time the pack were a little lighter since it was strictly a fishing trip.
Anyone who's interested in that sort of thing can read the TR here:
http://www.highsierratopix.com/community/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=15179
I've learned a lot about fishing from that website so I was hoping to contribute there, and it's not a climbing trip after all, though it might have been just as tiring :)
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Bump thread.
Tehipite season starts when?
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
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Just re-read Vittles' blogpost. Some gems that stand out for me:
fake excitement is better than honest hopelessness.
heaven is here, on earth. Along with hell. It is a personal choice for most individuals, although not all, which one to move forward. Concentrating on the negativity of the daily grind won't get you closer to a place like Crystal Creek, so choose your Infinity Pool wisely.
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limpingcrab
Gym climber
Minkler, CA
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Author's Reply
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Jun 12, 2017 - 12:42pm PT
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Tehipite season starts when? The road to Wishon opened so Tehipite season starts now! Well, the river is currently nuts so that's something to consider.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Jun 12, 2017 - 12:48pm PT
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Do you have to cross the river to get to reach Tehipite? Or does it just mean we don't get to eat fresh trout?
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limpingcrab
Gym climber
Minkler, CA
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Author's Reply
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Jun 12, 2017 - 02:57pm PT
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You have to cross it to reach this wall, but not to reach Tehipite Dome. You do have to cross Crown Creek if you don't take the rap route into Tehipite. Some say it can't be crossed in spring but they're just sissies :)
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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part 2 bump
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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A wonderful adventure! I'm surprised I have not seen it before, but I must have been out suffering in the wilds.
Thank you for taking the time to post all those photos & prose!
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High Fructose Corn Spirit
Gym climber
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Very cool, you guys. Thanks for taking the time to write up these TRs too.
If you're still around to see this: (1) Where'd you see the two? rattlesnakes in your multi-day timeline? (2) How prevalent was the PO? to spot it did you have to hunt for it? or was it to be found at every third twist and turn?** (3) I imagine you had bug nets for your head, did you have to use em?
Thanks again. Stoked it was such a super adventure for you all!
**I'm pretty experienced with rattlers everywhere, the PO not so much, not for many years.
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limpingcrab
Gym climber
Minkler, CA
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Author's Reply
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Aug 2, 2018 - 12:05pm PT
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If you're still around to see this: (1) Where'd you see the two? rattlesnakes in your multi-day timeline? (2) How prevalent was the PO? to spot it did you have to hunt for it? or was it to be found at every third twist and turn?** (3) I imagine you had bug nets for your head, did you have to use em?
(1) I think we saw one when walking further up the trail to look at other rocks and another along the river while Fishing. 3 trips out there and I still see more rattlers in Kings Canyon than Tehipite.
(2) Not much. None on the hike in, a bit towards the bottom of the decent and a bit in parts of the valley. Easily avaoidable.
(3) We’re not that smart. V and Brian slept in a tent, I slept out on the rocks in the open with bugs on me at night. We didn’t get any mosquitoes so it wasn’t a big issue, just kinda annoying sometimes. Head nets might have been nice for the tiny black flies but they were only up away from the water.
Thanks for reading!
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High Fructose Corn Spirit
Gym climber
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limpingcrab, thanks for the reply. And good to hear about both the PO and the bugs. One last bit: Your TRs got me wishing - first time ever, lol - that I were a fly fisherman! Maybe someday! :)
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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An interesting way to F up a perfectly good fishing trip.
Berg heil.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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How many hours would you say it took you to walk in?
I understand you split it into two days on this trip, I'm wondering how many hours on day 1 and how many on day 2, assuming a standard heavy-ass pack.
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limpingcrab
Gym climber
Minkler, CA
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Author's Reply
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Aug 2, 2018 - 09:49pm PT
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Hard to remember this far out, le_bruce. It’s about 18 miles to the valley floor and another three to base camp for this rock.
Both climbing trips we hiked back to the car in one go with the horse-to-water thing going and went fast. The trips on the way in we started in the evening and walked into the night, don’t remember the times unfortunately.
Knowing that the three trips included people like Brian, Vitaliy and my brother (for fishing only) I’d assume we averaged about 3mph including breaks because they’re all animals. I’ve literally ran a trail back from a climb following V for absolutely no reason :)
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Tom Patterson
Trad climber
Seattle
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Wowzie...wow, wow, wow!!
Awesome trip report, limpincrab! And I love the "Tarzan/Jane" way of narrating. Sometimes the TRs get so wordy that you have to sort of do them in doses (first world problem, right, Vitaly?).
Anyway...what an adventure! Bold-o-rama!
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cencalclimber
climber
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Aug 23, 2018 - 03:17pm PT
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hilarious. And awesome. Thanks!
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Aug 23, 2018 - 04:29pm PT
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DAMN!! Really, this is the kind of trip report that is going to make me quit my job and retire so that I can go climbing more
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