Trip Report
Supercanaleta on Fitz Roy, Patagonia (November 2013)
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Wednesday November 25, 2015 10:15am
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I guess this mountain does not need an introduction. Here are a few photos from an ascent of what could arguably be the most classic alpine climb on Earth:
KristofferSzilas
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About the Author
Kristoffer Szilas is a mountain climber from Denmark. |
Comments
Gregory Crouch
Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
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Nov 25, 2015 - 10:19am PT
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Bitchin' route; bitchin' climb! Good effort. I've had the honor of shaking Fonrouge's hand and of speaking to Carlos Comesana on the telephone. One of the greatest first ascents of all time, in my opinion.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Nov 25, 2015 - 10:19am PT
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That is quite RADICAL!++++
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Nov 25, 2015 - 10:51am PT
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Great shots that bring back memories of a super fun route.
I climbed this in 1987 with Walt Shipley in, I believe, 15 hours from schrund to summit. Looks like a bit more ice exiting the couloir in your photos. Pretty much all rock as I remember.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Nov 25, 2015 - 10:52am PT
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I hate you (not really). Probably the one route on earth I've wanted to do more than any other. Congratulations on a terrific climb.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Nov 25, 2015 - 04:55pm PT
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Wow! Another outstanding TR of another world classic. Thank you.
John
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namascar
Trad climber
Pasadena, CA
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Nov 25, 2015 - 07:37pm PT
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Dang, this is a TR poker!
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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Nov 25, 2015 - 09:41pm PT
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Glad I finally took the time...good sh#t.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Nov 26, 2015 - 06:54am PT
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Yeeha! More of this !!
the "Compressor" photos and write up were great too!
This arrives on the Thanksgiving here in the States.
Thanx you for filling in the drive time with memorable 'snap shots'
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SC seagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, Bozeman, the ocean, or ?
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Nov 26, 2015 - 07:12am PT
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I can't stop going over again and again and again your recent TR postings.
I look and look and look and see something new every time.
A wonderful gift to us.
Susan
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Nov 26, 2015 - 10:47am PT
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Very nice. You must have had to file for a week to get your points sharp again.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 26, 2015 - 11:38am PT
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Fantastic TR of a global classic!
Thanks for posting it here and sharing your exploits with us!
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climbski2
Mountain climber
The Ocean
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Nov 27, 2015 - 02:53pm PT
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Loooong..and Badass!
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d-know
Trad climber
electric lady land
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Nov 27, 2015 - 03:22pm PT
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Sickness.
Way to represent,
Denmark!
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Nov 28, 2015 - 06:19pm PT
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You, my friend, have lived a dozen lives of fine routes compared to most of us. Thank you for taking us along with you through this recent explosion of trip reports.
Much appreesh.
Scott
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Ed H
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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Nov 28, 2015 - 06:26pm PT
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Way to go!
Thanks for posting!
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Larry Nelson
Social climber
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Nov 29, 2015 - 07:36am PT
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Bump for some great climbing content.
you are on a roll. Thanks for posting
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crankster
Trad climber
No. Tahoe
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Nov 29, 2015 - 07:39am PT
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Your posts are like a travelogue for climbs most of us will only do in our dreams. Thanks!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Nov 29, 2015 - 08:38am PT
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Colors notwithstanding, an overall wonderful TR of this classic.
With whom did you partner on this?
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Nov 29, 2015 - 08:48am PT
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Salut!
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KristofferSzilas
Mountain climber
Denmark
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Author's Reply
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Nov 29, 2015 - 04:02pm PT
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Colors notwithstanding, an overall wonderful TR of this classic.
With whom did you partner on this?
I uploaded PNG-files now and the colors seem to have improved.
Climbed this one with David Gladwin (UK) and Kim Ladiges (Tasmania).
Great alpine climbers both of them!
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Nov 29, 2015 - 04:51pm PT
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Very cool pics, great job, thanks for sharing!
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Nov 29, 2015 - 08:34pm PT
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Thank you, just amazing photos.
30 raps, through the night, after a massive day of pushing... Boy oh boy, no margin. Respect for anyone who sends that route. Is IAD the standard way of firing it, or do parties bivy?
This photo is my favorite:
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KristofferSzilas
Mountain climber
Denmark
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Author's Reply
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Nov 29, 2015 - 09:05pm PT
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We did 30+ rappels because one guy lost his belay device and his headlamp died, so we had to do shorter rappels as the ropes kept twisting with the HMS-brake. On top of that there was so much spindrift coming down that we didn't find half of the in situ anchors, and had to build many ourselves. We would stop mid-pitch whenever we got back on track, so we did countless of extra rappels.
We returned to our bivy at the base of the climb after a 33 hour round-trip. We then hiked directly back to El Chalten to party, so ended up being awake for two days straight.
I guess we were a bit slow being three in a team, plus it was unusually cold so we had to stop a few times to brew up and keep warm.
As far as I know most people do it in a single push like we did, or else they bivy at the notch before starting the rappels. Most people rappel the Franco-Argentino, which has fixed anchors the whole way and is shorter.
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Nov 30, 2015 - 02:35am PT
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Kristoffer,
All that hard core alpinism, you were lucky to escape coz you don't tie off your fig of 8s!!!
;-)
(Seriously, this is seriously impressive stuff)
Steve
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Nov 30, 2015 - 02:47am PT
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Quite a career !
Respect.
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Scole
Trad climber
Zapopan
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Nov 30, 2015 - 09:33am PT
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Well done! I'm glad to see that Fitz-Roy still satisfies.
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KristofferSzilas
Mountain climber
Denmark
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Author's Reply
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Dec 3, 2015 - 12:49pm PT
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I should also add this video:
[Click to View YouTube Video]
We thought we were smart by hiking up a day in advance of the weather window. Turned out to be a poor decision, because we had to bivy behind some boulders and got absolutely soaking wet. On top of that the whole couloir was loaded with snow and the hike back over Paso Quadrado was also incredibly avalanche-prone.
Here is a video of the view from the top ridge on the successful ascent a week later:
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Wicked.
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