Trip Report
Superbalance (Polar Sun Spire, Baffin Island, April-May 2012)
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Thursday June 7, 2012 8:21pm
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You can say that Zodiac is a piece of cake, but I was so proud, when I alone topped out in October 2006. I felt a certain calm contentment after my first climb in Yo thinking that I couldn't climb anything better... and I was wrong.
In that October, drinking my last coffee in the Caff just before setting off on my journey home, Tom asked me – What next after the Zod, Regan? What next? Then during the next 6 years he asked me the same question continuously - season after season. Till the last autumn, all my answers were written on the El Cap, but when I finished my MescaMondatta last year, I answered Tom differently– "I am going on Baffin Island".
This is a trip report regarding that answer...
About 2 years ago, I got an email from Yeti:
"Hi Regan,
Do you want to climb on Polar Sun Spire on Baffin Island?"
I answered immediately:
"Yes, I do"
Easier said than done, but step by step we were organizing the trip and solving all problems including the one at the top of the lengthy list – NO MONEY!!!
I never in my life said as many good things about myself as during the presentations of our project. I wasted the whole previous year ,when trying to kill my ego, but thanks to the meetings, we achieved healthy sponsorship.
We packed all our gear in six bags (and my ego in the seventh) before flying to Canada and meeting Ottawa Doug at the airport. I knew him from the Valley. Ottawa Doug did his solo on Mescalito in 2007. He played Pink Floyd, Rolling Stones and all good tunes from 70s and 80s. Doug , thanks for entertainment on my evenings on South Seas, and for hospitality during our short stop in Ottawa.
Next day afternoon, we were in Clyde River...
Our agent – Levi, picked up us from the airport...
...and we pitched our tent, because we had no money in the budget for 250$ pp/pn room in a local hotel. It was cold (minus 25 C. degree), but cheap (free), so we were happy...
Next day we did sightseeing and paid a short visit to the local store. I have never been in Beverly Hills, but the prices there must be similar to Clyde River, so we only sent some postcards and took some pictures...
...and came back to our igloo. After another cold night, we packed all the gear and...
...it was the time to go to the mountains.
The first stop was next to an iceberg. We had a chance to warm up frozen feet, take some pictures, chat with guides (Denis and Esa) and recover after a crazy ride in a box on a sled with no suspension system...
At another stop, we met some hunters with dogs. We shook hands and I realized that this was yet another local guy who had missing fingers...Hmm, it's not only me who finds this a really cold place.
Late afternoon, we set our BC at the base of the wall.
Checking all the gear, I realized, that the seventh bag was missing; I was ready for the wall. :) On the right was The Great and Secret Show (J. Chapman, W. Hollinger, M. Synnott, 1996), on the left was Norwegian Route (B. Bo, H. Hagen, T. Roisli, O. Wiik, 2000), but on the middle we put some dots saying: we gonna link them !!!!
Some sources say, that PSS is 1300m tall, other than over 1500m, regardless this was a huge wall
Next morning, my watch shows – 14/04/2012, 6:00 am, minus 20 C. degree...
It is time to go. We were hungry for a climb. No time for bla, bla, another coffee, taking pictures etc – The time is NOW!!!!
We took the first picture in the second day, when we were on fixed ropes.
Yeti was super effective on mixt climbing section below Camp II (M5-M7+/A3). The rock was loose, but The Boomerang crack was beautiful...
Day by day, we changed perspective. View from Camp II ledge. I was on the fixed lines...
21th of April. The Camp II is ready...
Daily cold news:
Yeti lost feeling in toes. Warming up of white toes took over an hour after breakfast, then he lead two pitches as we planned.
Thanks to the belay sit, we can take off the pressure on legs and keep warm feet. Belay exercises are necessary all the time. Do not be lazy, do not loose you toes...
Do not forget to empty your PPB ( Personal Piss Bottle), otherwise you need to step outside of portaledge...
Yeti makes the portions for meals. I am a cook. Perfect team work.
Temps in the portaledge – minus 10 to minus 20.
Jugging on fix lines was a daily nightmare...
The second half of the wall
Yeti just before the entry to The Fridge
Yeti in The Fridge
The last return to the Camp II
21 hours hauling day to the Camp III
At 2:00 in the morning we set the Camp III, then we had a day off
Daily cold news:
Every evening our Primaloft sleeping bags are like frozen balls ,except the down one which is like ice ball, as a result we can use only that Pimaloft bags.
Every day, My Gore Tex jacket sticks to the Primaloft inner jacket by ice. I have to rip one from the other...
In some really cold days, we can shot no more than 10-20 photos, because of flat batteries. Thanks to solar panel system we can recharge them. We took over 6000 photos plus some videos...
The crack on the Headwall reminded me climbing on The Shield – beautiful and clean...
The start was hard and exciting - hooks, head, rivets, and many, many beaks...
Short explanation for some of you who already started to laugh because of the orange poo bag : On this wall we carry our drilling set in the orange bag. It was scary start to the pitch, but not that much...:)
Return to Camp III after another pitch on the Headwall
The Bird
A bird has been flying around the mountain for the past two days. Black, silent and lost. Unfolding his wings and embracing the wind. He is alike the birds of the Inuit sculptures. When he flies away we will be alone again.
Total Commitment
No excuses in a team of two and no ego in a team of two.
Yeti said: We were like soldiers in the trenches. We had no choice , we had to fight arm by arm from the bottom to the top...
Bad conditions are not a sufficient excuse. We resolved to climb every day...
Racking up before pitch 27
Leading
Belaying
The next day was the last hauling day
3th of May. 20th day of climb. Camp IV is ready...
The Silence
Nobody ever makes any noise here. No animals, people, or flowing water to be heard. Apart from the sounds of our climbing and falling rocks in the course of 25 days we heard only:
a skidoo - 3 times
a jet plane - 3 times
beckoning huntsmen - 1 time
Silence is solitude...
Pitch 27 was one of the most spectacular.
Every time we passed that pitch we enjoyed the space...
The top is very close...
7th of May 2012. Yeti on the top
...and me
We had a little party, when we came back to the portaledge.
Straight after our celebration, Yeti began to read his book and I started to write my notes, then when I looked my climbing partner he seemed to be a little strange; more motivated, more ambitious, I would even say aggressive. Maybe it was the effect of his devotion to our ethos of "total commitment" or maybe I should not to drink that particular whiskey....
I soon realize, that after this wall we will never be the same...
The next morning, we dropped ropes for the descent and in ten hours we got to the fiord.
Superbalance, VII, A4, M7+
14/04 - 07/05/2012
24 days (including 2 rest days)
Behind us , we just left the wall with linked dots...
People
Fishermen who shared some food with us...
Hunters in a hut on the way to Clyde River
The last negotiation with Levi...
In Ottawa Yeti said: Every time I do some new wall, I go to some local barber shop...
We went to the towns Little Italy. Doug mentioned something about our climb. The guy from the left , was peeling of a pear, then in silence just cut the fruit on 4 pieces and shared with us. That was a great prize for me...
At the airport, we shook hands with Yeti and we went back to the ordinary life...
I would like to thank our sponsors: Polish Alpine Association, CAN Offshore, Goal Zero, Grivel, Zamberlan, and also Olympus, Timex, Monkey's Grip, Petzl, MSR, Black Diamond, Uvex, Lyofood, Atest, EPA.
Of course behind all brands and companies are people who shared our enthusiasm and crazy idea of climb that piece of rock...You guys rock!: Adam, Miriam, Piotr, Nathan, Alistair, Pawel, Mark, Dominique, Siobhan, Wojtek.
Thanks for any help, info and thumbs up: Ottawa Doug, Bjarte Bo, Mike “Twid” Turner, Mark Synnott, Maciek Ciesielski, Pete MacPherson, Tom Evans ( special thanks for the question), Adam, Russ, Levi, Denis, hunters who shared food with us, all friendly people on check-in desks at the airports and security guys who understood what we had to do...:)
Anyone who needs more info, feel free and drop me an e-mail ( I always respond).
More details (topo, gear list, day to day diary, blog, etc) you can find on my website :
http://www.reganclimbing.com/index.php?lg=12
See you in the Valley...
Regan
...and some short video by Yeti:
[ Click to View YouTube Video]
...and another one by Bartek Wnek:
[ Click to View YouTube Video]
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Trip Report Views: 43,471 |
Regan
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About the Author
Regan is a big wall climber from Poland. |
Comments
Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
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Wow!
Super interesting and super impressive!
Thanks so much for posting this!
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Gene
climber
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Wonderful, Regan, fantastic! Thanks for another great report.
g
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Anne
Trad climber
Portland, OR
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Awesome send! What's next!!
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nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
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I will remember you guys every time I think it's cold in an unplanned bivy in Yosemite.
I'm imagining the first hour of you standing in that cold and thinking, "yeah about a month of this would be good."
Instead of saying "badass!" for other people's reports, when I want to complement them from now on I should say "that's so regan/yeti"
You should make some bucks taking the slideshow on the road. Really nice what you shared here.
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matty
Trad climber
Sad the forum is gone =(
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Proud! Thanks for sharing. Some of those shots look pretty gnarly. Great job.
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Now that was very cool...
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michaeld
climber
Beta Sprayer at your Gym
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Wow... Amazing TR
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Holy crap!
Well done you two. Awesome send!
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wbw
Trad climber
'cross the great divide
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Am I wrong or did you guys put up the most direct line on that monster.
Way to go and thanks for the awesome TR.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Best TR ever.
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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jeeeeezzzuussss Regan, i was worried about you up on el cap a few years ago when a big storm came in. now i know there was no need to be concerned. proud effort !
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skywalker
climber
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Jesus Christ! F-man, way to go!!!!
S...
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Dirka
Trad climber
Hustle City
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Do your Ballz hurt from dragging on the ground. BADASS!
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cowpoke
climber
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Jeez, what a treat this tr is...unreal.
Belay exercises are necessary all the time. Do not be lazy, do not loose you toes...
Brrrr...jeez.
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johntp
Trad climber
Punter, Little Rock
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Sweet! Thanks fot the TR.
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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I'm gonna butcher the spelling, but: Dzenkuje for posting up!!! Awesome TR!
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Very cool,
Looks like your partner is a friend for life....
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climbski2
Mountain climber
The Ocean
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Incredible how well you guys handled serious cold and serious climbing for such an extended period.
Very impressive discipline.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Great story Regan!
You look happy doing what you do best...
Brrrrrr!!
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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You guys are pussies
Always complaining about -20 temperatures 4,000 feet up a wall in the arctic
pussies
(:
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Great report and what a climb!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Great adventure, wonderful send, thanks for posting it here for us to read!
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Captain...or Skully
climber
Boise, ID
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Diggin' it, Regan. That is one beautiful place, huh?
Fab pics & great TR. 7 thumbs up.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Way to push it guys! Great write up and thanks for posting on the Taco.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Great!!! Way too badassssss for me. You guys are top shelf!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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TFPU
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Bad Ass!!!
Like something I would have loved except for the weeks of extreme work, cold and pain
Peace
karl
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Regan is breaking on through to the other side . . . waaay to go dudes.
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Hoots
climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Regan (Marek), your TRs are some perfect blend of humor and humble badass memoir. This one takes the cake though. SO SICK!
See ya in the Valley mate.
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BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
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Awesome TR and proud climb. Thanks for sharing your pics and story with us.
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pc
climber
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Very fun report. I can only imagine the suffering. Well done!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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sooo great!
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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I can't imagine what would be next...you've pretty much done it.
Thanks for the write-up and the photos. We are not worthy.
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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what just happened
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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I think the old saying
"Our dream vacation is your worst nightmare"
applies here.
Well done!
It is 41degrees C in arizona today.
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Yup, we not worthy. Really awesome, in the true, clear meaning of that word. Thanks so much for taking the time and effort to put this up for us!
BAd
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Morgan
Trad climber
East Coast
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Supercool, Regan!
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Lasti
Trad climber
Budapest
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Dobra robota.
Lasti
p.s.: what next?
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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Great Trip Report! Whoa Man! Supernatural stuff and gripping..........Thanks to you both. One Question......how did your digital camera work in those cold conditions.... what kind of battery?????
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stevep
Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
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Wow. Very impressive. I don't even want to ski when it is that cold. Much less do hard climbing.
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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When you are badass in those kind of conditions...you ARE BADASS!
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Michael Nicholson
Big Wall climber
Thousand Oaks
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Bold climbing with a good TR! Nice work!
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Regan
Big Wall climber
Poland/Scotland
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Author's Reply
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Jun 8, 2012 - 04:13pm PT
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Hi, Thanks for all comments, grats and responses.
You all rock!!! Thanks
Some short answer regarding cameras:
I had Olympus TG 820 and DSLR Olympus E-3. I had no problem to minus 10 and even in lower temps, but I could not keep the cameras outside all the time. Using a camera in that conditions we had 2 problems - coldness and humidity in portaledge during cooking.
I had some LI batteries, but in that temps nothing works fine. The most important was recharging system, solar panel+battery+inverter ( Goal Zero). You can check all technical details on my website.
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lars johansen
Trad climber
West Marin, CA
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Absolutely stellar!! Thanks so much for posting.
Best,
lars
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Dos XX
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Wow! Ragan rocks!
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Reeotch
climber
4 Corners Area
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F'ing A Right!
That's hard core, man!
Full on contitions!
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AKDOG
Mountain climber
Anchorage, AK
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Thanks for posting!, what an adventure, I could feel the cold coming off my computer. Bad ass
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Hannes
climber
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wow, simply wow!
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labrat
Trad climber
Erik O. Auburn, CA
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So cooooooold !!!!!!!!
Nice!
Erik
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phile
Trad climber
SF, CA
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Really impressive.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Holy Hard Core! Looking up when most of us would only be looking down. Way to go gents. Bravo. Thanks for sharing your amazing adventure with stellar photography and written word.
You two strong like bull!
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NFB
Mountain climber
Wilson, Wyoming
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I am voting for Regan.
Another fine trip report. Thanks.
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Mark Rodell
Trad climber
Bangkok
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A very fine read. Thank you.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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mind-blowing. hope you have many more like that!
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Ottawa Doug
Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
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Hey Guys,
There is only one thing to say - YOU GUYS ARE BADASS!
I only saw a few of the pics at my home, but this TR really tells a big chunk of the story. Amazing vertical spaces, hard climbing, harder weather and two climbers fully committed. As always those of us reading this TR who weren't there think we know how tough it was, but actually don't fully understand.
I can't imagine what else there is for you guys to go climb. As always your TR's are funny and informative at the same time. I love that opening picture beside the title Superbalance. Good art! Huge hello to Marcin (Yeti) and to you also Marek (Regan). Looking forward to the next time we meet in the valley.
Very best wishes,
Doug
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namascar
Trad climber
Pasadena, CA
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Jun 10, 2012 - 12:08am PT
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Nice report, good times. It made me look again to a photo I took over the Baffin Island from the plane on my way back from Europe. It includes the Polar Sun Spire.
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Lambone
Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
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Jun 10, 2012 - 12:32am PT
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F*#k yeah Regan and Doug!!!
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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
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Jun 10, 2012 - 12:53am PT
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Holy frickin cow!!! BADASS!!
Unreal place to be.
Congrats!
Why does this rope look weird?
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RDB
Social climber
Great Basin
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Jun 10, 2012 - 01:56am PT
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FOOK YA! Some mighty stellar chit!
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laughingman
Mountain climber
Seattle WA
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Jun 10, 2012 - 02:19am PT
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Cool TR, looks like lots of "type 3 fun"....
Did they make you guys carry a rifle (protection against polar bears) like my friends did a couple of years back?
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Captain...or Skully
climber
Boise, ID
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Jun 11, 2012 - 12:29am PT
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Methinks our boy Regan is Waaaay more badass than he lets on.
Nice stylings, sir.
Groove big, Marek.
Proud to have hung about & tipped a few with thee. Oh, yes.
Edit: to the previous poster...in this Park, a high powered rifle is just another good idea. You are prey without(and sometimes with)it.
Plus you can score a new sealskin haulbag.
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Regan
Big Wall climber
Poland/Scotland
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Author's Reply
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Jun 10, 2012 - 09:27am PT
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Yeti and me want to thank you all for your comments. Also, I want to thank all guys who climbed the wall before us. They inspired us for taking the challenge. It was like sharing a flame of a candle...
Ottawa Doug - special thanks and see you in the magic Valley.
The true about being Badass is that we are Badass when we are back home. When we are on the wall, we are always lost softies like Sierra Ledge Rat said...:))))))
Paul Souza - What weird is with the rope?
Color? The shot has been taken with Magic Filter.
Zig zag? Because of back cleaning...
The angle? because during the shot, I kept the camera very close to the wall.
Laughingman - We had the gun, but fortunately we didn't have to use...
Cheers
Regan
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Grampa
climber
from SoCal
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Jun 10, 2012 - 10:15am PT
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Speechless! Amazing to a whole new level.
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The Alpine
climber
The Sea
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Jun 10, 2012 - 10:37am PT
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Wow.
Conveys a very strong sense of being waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay out there.
Nice fukcing job!
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jun 10, 2012 - 11:41am PT
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Wow! Thank you for sharing an amazing journey!
I now have a whole new definition for the word:
SUFFERFEST!
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Jun 10, 2012 - 12:48pm PT
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GNARL!
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ChileMangoMouth
climber
CA
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Jun 10, 2012 - 02:19pm PT
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Awesome trip report! What a great read, and very inspiring!
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bbbeans
Trad climber
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Jun 10, 2012 - 09:24pm PT
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Yeti and Regan are supermen! Really impressive. Thanks for sharing this experience with the rest of us!
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
On the road.
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Jun 10, 2012 - 10:06pm PT
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OMG! I am not worthy!!!!
Regan! sh#t, man! Bad Friggen Ass!
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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Jun 11, 2012 - 11:04am PT
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inspiring report--although for some reason i'm not inspired to undertake this.
pretty cold temperatures, but would i be right in assuming the weather is more reliable in april than july or august for a long climb like that? i think april is preferred for denali climbs because of that--deep chill but good weather.
congrats on keeping all your fingers and toes. FYI, i lived in beverly hills for a year quite cheaply, but didn't eat in any of the restaurants and didn't stay in any of the hotels.
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Jun 11, 2012 - 02:44pm PT
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PROUD.
And way to stay psyched, and keeping after it for days on end.
It's really hard to convey the scale and magnitude of that wall. When Lovelace and I were below it on our way in to Walker Citadel in '95 we were in AWE. What wasn't conveyed here is that Polar Sun faces east, so it doesn't get much sun that far north. It's also right where the main fjord forks, with the Walker Arm heading off to the right. Because of this aspect the face is right in a wind tunnel as the wind barrels off the ocean, and down the main fjord - headlong in to this face.
Proud guys, proud.
WOOT......Paul
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Double D
climber
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Jun 11, 2012 - 07:05pm PT
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Wow...that's what I call a BIG WALL! Nice job.
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Regan
Big Wall climber
Poland/Scotland
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Author's Reply
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Jun 12, 2012 - 03:36pm PT
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Thanks again...
Tony Bird - temps in april are really low, but feeling of coldness is even worse. The difference between Winter and Summer is that in the Winter snow storm you can climb (slowly but you can), but in the rain/snow storm this is impossible or much harder...
Paul Gagner- yes, we had 20 min of sun on the Camp II on north face during a sunset starting at 9:00pm, then all the time cold north shade.BTW your story about return in 1995 is really epic. Did you write something about it...? After 23 days on the wall you hike back nearly 200km!!! Believe me, on some belay I tried to imaging your trip. Respect...
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dirt claud
Social climber
san diego,ca
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Jun 12, 2012 - 04:41pm PT
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Frickin sick,tfpu, killer pics
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go-B
climber
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Jun 12, 2012 - 04:49pm PT
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SUPER SEND!
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Jun 12, 2012 - 11:16pm PT
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Hey Regan -
Wrote an article for the '95 AAJ. We didn't finish the hike out. Hiked out three days before we realized we were on a suicide mission, and turned around and hiked back three days. We had all these raging river crossings, at peak snow melt. Eventually picked-up by some guys from Clyde River.
Be in the Valley this fall for an EC route - I'd love to buy you a Cobra. Super Proud!!
Paul
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Neil Chelton
climber
England
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Jun 12, 2012 - 11:56pm PT
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That is at least 10 times more bad-ass than anything else that i've ever heard of anyone doing ever. I am literally speechless as i look through your photos in a state of total bewilderment. My eyes are wide open and i'm actually drooling. That is fcuking incredible. How can you possibly live a normal life now? Was it even possible to return to civilization without some sort of massive culture shock? You guys are an inspiration.
Neil
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Hummerchine
Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
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Jun 13, 2012 - 12:59am PT
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Not much I can add to what has already been said. Wonderful TR, freaking cool send, I'm impressed beyond words, envious on many levels...sounds like the adventure of a lifetime times a thousand. Thanks so much for sharing that.
Man, you ain't EVER gonna forget that!!!
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Jeff Gorris
climber
Not from Portlandia
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Jun 13, 2012 - 01:24am PT
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Hellofa Excellent.
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yosguns
climber
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Jun 13, 2012 - 01:32am PT
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This is super inspiring and I feel honored to have read the tale. Thanks for the report. :)
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MisterE
Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
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Jun 13, 2012 - 08:45am PT
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Wow - Sufferfest is right.
I had to put on my puffy just to read this...in summer...in SoCal.
Great TR!
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cowpoke
climber
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Jun 13, 2012 - 11:41am PT
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front page, please
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neversummer
climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
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Jun 13, 2012 - 01:38pm PT
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Dang...like others have said, that TR made me f*#kin' cold...good job.
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callum
Trad climber
UK
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Jun 13, 2012 - 02:20pm PT
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Ultimate RESPECT!
so so well written.
I feel a bit soft going sport climbing in Spain all winter now.....:)
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Ottawa Doug
Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
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Jun 14, 2012 - 11:50pm PT
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Bump for my BADA$$ friends!
Cheers,
Doug
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paganmonkeyboy
climber
mars...it's near nevada...
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Jun 15, 2012 - 12:28am PT
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Whoa...amazing...one of most amazing ever...slow clap, hat off, slight bow as i back away...
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laughingman
Mountain climber
Seattle WA
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Jun 15, 2012 - 03:59am PT
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cowpoke
climber
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Jun 15, 2012 - 08:20pm PT
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Beautiful sunny day at the crag and talked much of this tr -- preweekend bump back to the top.
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jmap
Social climber
NC
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Jun 15, 2012 - 08:37pm PT
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gold star. beyond comprehension. what does the world look like after that?
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Stu27
Sport climber
West Bloomfield, MI
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Jun 27, 2012 - 02:01pm PT
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Two words: Piolet d'Or
Great report. Great photos. You really show how important humor, resourcefulness, and determination are to success. You guys rock (pun intended).
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Jun 28, 2012 - 01:54am PT
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Wow guys. Thanks for the share. You guys are infinity badass!
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elcap-pics
Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
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Jun 28, 2012 - 10:30am PT
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Yes...Great climbing by great climbers!!!
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alpinerockfiend
Trad climber
the Magic City
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Jun 28, 2012 - 10:52am PT
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Thanks for sharing this... incredible!!!
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Seamstress
Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
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Jun 28, 2012 - 12:43pm PT
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Excellent. What an adventure. As much as I love adventure, some badass men mentioned COLD many, many times. Take no prisoners!
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Ottawa Doug
Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
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Jun 29, 2012 - 10:07pm PT
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Bump because this is actually a climbing thread! Just read it again and am still amazed.
Marek and Marcin, you guys rock!
Ciao,
Ottawa Doug
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tarek
climber
berkeley
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Jun 30, 2012 - 02:56am PT
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Holy frozen mackerel.
What an incredible climb.
Great report.
Hats off.
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Marsupial Rat
Trad climber
Australia
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If aliens ever threaten our planet, we should blast AC/DC from the top of Everest 24 hours a day and email the invaders a copy of this TR.
Knowing that Earth has even 2 blokes as tough as this will convince any space arseholes to keep moving.
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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rad rad rad folkin' write up
those pictures are piercing!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Proud and wild adventure lads!
Way to hang tough and finish it off.
Thanks for sharing your experience with us!
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Allen Hill
Social climber
CO.
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These guy's should get a chapter in the second addition of "Freedom Climbers." I think this may be the best trip report I've ever seen on this website. How he keeps a sense of humor about such a clearly very serious and dangerous climb is beyond me. I'd love the AAC Journal to publish it as it is. It'd be a great statement.
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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So badass. The only thing you missed was decorating the inside of your ledge with hard core porn like those Russian guys did.
Rock & Ice got endless bitching for publishing those shots......
Seriously. What an adventure. Weather? What weather!!!
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Regan
Big Wall climber
Poland/Scotland
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Author's Reply
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Jul 4, 2012 - 12:34pm PT
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Thank you for all great comments and congrats. I am amazed at how big is the big wall community. I thought we are like dying dinosaurs ... :)
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nopantsben
climber
europe
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Jul 25, 2012 - 12:16pm PT
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wow! thanks for putting this together.. you guys are badass...
i came back from a trip to baffin yesterday and this is the third thing i see on the internet!... hardcore!!
baffin is such a wild, mind-bending place!
congratulations!
those pics are the most interesting climbing pics i have seen in a long time.
...and we thought we had bad weather... ;-)
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tarek
climber
berkeley
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Jul 25, 2012 - 02:43pm PT
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only ever did one wall--the nose. love bouldering, never did any winter climbing. but anyone with the tiniest bit of a climbing soul can see that this is an incredible project. It's really a privilege to read about it. If rank were based on views, I bet this report would rarely leave the front page...
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pile
Mountain climber
Cali
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Jul 25, 2012 - 04:02pm PT
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RESPECT
holy sh#t guys thats a proud send, awesome TR as well.....
Thats pretty heavy
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Aug 28, 2012 - 07:13am PT
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Holy frig! I totally missed this amazing and unbelievable ascent and trip report because I was up on the wall. Dang. Big ass bump for an incredible job!
Man oh man, you Polish bastards are tough mofo's. I can't begin to imagine the sufferfest you guys would have had to endure to put this route up. What an outstanding job!
How much fuel did you bring per person per day, what stove system did you use, and how many stoves did you bring? How about rivet and bolt count? Those steep headwall cracks look stellar!
My toque is off to you guys, eh? I owe you some beers on the bridge next time.
Cheers,
Pete Zabrok nee Zaborowski,
The Penguin Who Hates The Cold
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nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
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Aug 28, 2012 - 03:55pm PT
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Maybe a naked ascent of Zodiac in January, hauling blocks of ice that are melted against one's body during the night so they can be poured liquid over the body during the day?
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Aug 28, 2012 - 04:40pm PT
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Super burly - yet I just can't picture myself enjoying any of those belays enough to do it myself.
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Aug 28, 2012 - 11:22pm PT
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I don't even know what to say. I mean...
that reset my whole notion of what is possible.
I didn't even know it was possible to stay on a wall that long, in that kind of cold, and live to tell about it.
Are you guys human?
What also amazes me is that you liked doing it.
Big congratulations, 110% commitment for sure. Way to keep going up.
What's next!? I shudder to think...
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Aug 28, 2012 - 11:51pm PT
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Another question!
Why do you guys climb in April? I know that this is the same time of year as when Synnott and Hollinger climbed their route, and I don't recall why they chose to climb then.
Why not come in the summertime, and make the approach in a boat?
Brrrrrr................
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Regan
Big Wall climber
Poland/Scotland
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Author's Reply
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Aug 29, 2012 - 04:17am PT
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Thanks to everyone again. Awesome comments!
Pete - a few answers...
We had 3 gallons of white gas. In a fact, we carried four, but one was not even opened.
We used multifuel stove MSR GXT Ex and we had another one as a backup (Edelrid)- not any problems at all.
30 belay bolts have been hand drilled and we place 15 rivets. 13 rivets for bypassing loose rock sections (10 on the end of the Boomerang and 3 on the beginning of the Arena) and 2 on A4 pitch. The detailed topo you can find on my web page or I can email you.
April/May is a cold time on the east coast of Baffin, but the weather is more stable then in summer season (see the last TR from Baffin). Generaly we called this climb as big wall alpine, because of winter conditions and mixed climbing techniques. BTW Synnott/Hollinger/Chapman climbed in May-July...
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mountain dog
Trad climber
over the hills and far away
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Sep 18, 2012 - 10:58pm PT
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Quite possibly the most bad ass climb I have read about on ST. So PROUD!
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paganmonkeyboy
climber
mars...it's near nevada...
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Sep 18, 2012 - 11:20pm PT
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Moooooaaaarrrr !!!
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mountain dog
Trad climber
over the hills and far away
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Sep 19, 2012 - 12:25am PT
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Prouder than shooting bears, killing dogs, threatening children, talking about politics or Jeebus. Prouder than sport climbing too.
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paganmonkeyboy
climber
mars...it's near nevada...
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Sep 19, 2012 - 12:42am PT
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sure, bring sport climbing into it you bastard...
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Gal
Trad climber
going big air to fakie
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Sep 19, 2012 - 12:50am PT
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So cool, I can't even imagine such an endeavor... great frickin' job, report, writing, pics... yaya!
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Radness bump.
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Dirka
Trad climber
Hustle City
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Mad impressive
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Good everytime!
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Leggs
Sport climber
Made in California, living in The Old Pueblo
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Intense, and incredible to read and look at... thank you for sharing.
(Cannot stop reviewing... Much respect)
~leggs
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brotherbbock
climber
So-Cal
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Nov 16, 2012 - 05:26pm PT
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Damn! Super Gnar!!!!
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hairyapeman
Trad climber
Fres-yes
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Nov 16, 2012 - 06:02pm PT
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Amazing pictures!
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m_jones
Trad climber
Carson City, NV
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Nov 17, 2012 - 01:49am PT
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WOW Regan - totally missed this report the first time.
Spelbinding read for a truly hard core adventure.
Thanks for inviting us for a glimpse of what you endured.
I simply cannot fathom how out there you were.
WOW!!
Nice to have met you this fall before you started up Native Son.
I am sure you have a great tale to tell about that as well.
All the best.
max
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dave goodwin
climber
carson city, nv
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Nov 17, 2012 - 10:29am PT
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That was awesome!! Great job. Had to go turn up the thermostat to finish reading that one!!!
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westhegimp
Social climber
granada hills
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OMG, mouthhangingopenjawonthefloor! WOW! What an effort. It's mind boggling the conditions that you guys were operating in. Mixed climbing to M7+ with all that aid gear hanging off and jackets and giant boots...
Way to go guys. Great send. Congratulations!
Wes
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robfritz
Trad climber
Pollock Pines, CA
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So rad! Does it get heavy hauling around such heavy balls? lol
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Keith Leaman
Trad climber
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Dec 31, 2012 - 06:30pm PT
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In case anyone missed it-thought I'd bump one of my favorite TRs of 2012.
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prickle
Gym climber
globe,az
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Dec 31, 2012 - 06:54pm PT
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super badasses, no other way to put it
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Dec 31, 2012 - 10:40pm PT
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The Poles have been some of the toughest guys around since the 1970's.
You guys make the other 99.999999% of climbers look pretty lame.
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10b4me
Social climber
Lida Junction
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TFPU
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J. Werlin
Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
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Good lord!
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Regan
Big Wall climber
Poland/Scotland
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Author's Reply
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Jan 7, 2013 - 05:33am PT
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Happy, Exciting and Successful New Year!!!
Thanks again everyone...
Yeti has been made some short video as an example of about 4 hours wall short films we have. We are ready to work on some short movie project with any filmaker, who is interested in that idea.
Feel free and drop me an email.
Thanks
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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briham89
Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
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Soooooooooooo gnarly
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phillipso
Trad climber
uk
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Inspirational stuff.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Regan, who is the music in that vid?
Watching you clean and rack gear with those gloves and in that cold there makes me wonder: did you end up dropping a bunch of gear/stuff?
And - any lead falls?
Love this shot:
Thanks again for a mindblowing TR.
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Regan
Big Wall climber
Poland/Scotland
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Author's Reply
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Feb 2, 2013 - 05:32am PT
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le_bruce, the music is by Dj Shadow - Giving up the Ghost.
We did not drop too many stuff. As far, as I remember just one pulley, which by a mirracle uncliped from a harness during jugging. That effect on our hauling, but Yeti is strong, so no problem...:)I couldn't clean some BD cam, so anybody will do a second ascent can get Nr2 or 3 just below the Fridge...
Falls? Yeti - one, leading M7 pitch. Me - three on aiding. Two on the Boomerang, one on A3 section, just above A4 on the Headwall.
Thanks, that photo from the Headwall is my favorite too...
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
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Oh come on, they are from Poland. They are used to it.
I had a Polish neighbor here in Ireland, Agatha, and she said it was cold here. "I said, Agatha, you are from Poland, you get sub-zero weather."
"Yes, but the Irish cold goes right to the bone."
"That is because it is a wet cold," I replied.
Regan and Yeti, my hat is off to you two. Cheers.
This TR, Myles' and Amy's TR, and others make the Taco Stand what it is.
PS I've always wanted to climb in the High Tatras, and Baffin too. Perhaps someday the former, but I think the latter is beyond me.
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Feb 10, 2013 - 04:22pm PT
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Out there!! I missed this earlier. Wow. Makes an El Cap route seem like a beach vacation...
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Feb 10, 2013 - 05:05pm PT
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Excellent TR. TFPU!
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cowpoke
climber
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bump for my all time fave tr...so crazy impressive
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Jul 13, 2013 - 05:57pm PT
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Bump!
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Regan
Big Wall climber
Poland/Scotland
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Author's Reply
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Jul 16, 2013 - 12:13pm PT
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Hey, I just want to share another video.
Edited by Bartek Wnek:
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Jul 16, 2013 - 01:09pm PT
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This quite simply is way up there in the "Badass as it Gets" category!
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Majid_S
Mountain climber
Karkoekstan, Former USSR
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Jul 16, 2013 - 04:27pm PT
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great photos, good job
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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These guys crush, send, stylie the routes they put up.... Baffin, to Paki.... Boom!
Up top!
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bbbeans
Trad climber
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a bump for one of the greatest things on the internet.
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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love those videos, holy cow. had to put my puffy on just to watch 'em.
I couldn't clean some BD cam, so anybody will do a second ascent can get Nr2 or 3 just below the Fridge...
Man that'd be funny as feces if you posted a 'left gear at the crag please return' thread. hahaha!!
thanks for sharing your radness!!!
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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These are the kinds of adventures that end up defining much of your life and who you become. Only a tiny few have the capability and bravery to attempt something this huge.
Awesome.
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TWP
Trad climber
Mancos, CO & Bend, OR
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I've read many epic stories and imagined "I could have done that - might have even enjoyed it!" Not this! Too epic! A whole different difficulty and suffering scale applies to climbs put up by Polish climbers. Are we sure Regan and Yeti are human?
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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We had the gun, but fortunately we didn't have to use...
No polar bear in its right mind is gunna mess with any animal that can climb that route in those conditions. Let alone two of ya.
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grover
climber
Castlegar BC
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Stellar TR
Nice pics as well.
Gracias
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 14, 2015 - 09:23am PT
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Base104 -- "Only a tiny few have the capability and bravery to attempt something this huge."
Yep .......
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Don Paul
Social climber
Washington DC
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Jan 14, 2015 - 10:18am PT
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Wow, what an amazing route. Too cold for me ...
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feralfae
Boulder climber
Montana, on the Divide and around.
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Jan 14, 2015 - 01:21pm PT
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Bravo!
Wow, amazing feat. Congratulations. Truly well done.
feralfae
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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Apr 12, 2015 - 06:57pm PT
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Front page TR bumpage...
killer!
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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Apr 12, 2015 - 08:26pm PT
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No kidding, friggin maniacs
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life is a bivouac
Trad climber
Bishop
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Apr 13, 2015 - 12:55pm PT
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All I can say is, Far Fu&<en Out! You've bagged a most impressive and esthetic line under mind dulling conditions... Great!
Have you thought about the massive face on Masherbrum ? "The Monster Mash" Just thinkin...
Cheers! Russ
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
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Apr 13, 2015 - 01:49pm PT
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Still the gnarliest I've ever seen.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Mar 18, 2016 - 12:13pm PT
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Double burl bump.
Holy sh#t. I'm from California. I can't handle this.
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Regan
Big Wall climber
Poland/Scotland
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Author's Reply
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Mar 20, 2016 - 10:28am PT
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YeeeeHaaaaw!!!
:)
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briham89
Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
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Mar 20, 2016 - 02:18pm PT
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Good bump. I read this three years ago, and read it now with the same feeling at the end....HOLY SH#T! So gnarly. Way to go.
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Regan
Big Wall climber
Poland/Scotland
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Author's Reply
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Mar 20, 2016 - 11:10pm PT
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Now, is almost 4 year after the Superbalance and still I can't imagine that we could do any better climb. Yeah, we tried, we try and we will with our poor imagination and vision...
Next stop, Alaska!
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Mar 20, 2016 - 11:20pm PT
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"Sunshine almost always makes me high . . . "
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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Jun 14, 2016 - 07:48am PT
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Just thought I would bump this one as well because these guys are the epitome of climbers to me
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