Trip Report
Sunkist, May 2011 - Threading the Needle
Wednesday June 1, 2011 1:10am
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Ever since Gary Thunen and I made an early ascent of Son of Heart in 1986 I've been intrigued by Sunkist. Looking out and down from the Tonsillectomy Traverse at the A5 Arch and the golden headwall that the route was named for was super inspiring. Somehow though it was one route I just hadn't made it back to do.
"Slow forward" to this past month, 25 years later, and my buddy Tom Dickey and I decided Sunkist was the route to do, even with all the terrible weather the Sierras have had this past year. So, on a Friday afternoon we flew from Denver to Sacramento, rented a car, loaded it with about 250 pounds worth of gear, and headed towards the Valley.
Driving to the Valley: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4dXu0Nu2YBY
Our first stop was Schneider's house in Mariposa to regroup and pack. Unfortunately the weather report for the next week was looking a bit dicey, but I had a secret weapon. My buddy Jim Woodmency is a meteorologist in Jackson Wyoming, and an expert on mountain weather (check out his web site: www.mountainweather.com). He always gives me a dialed in weather forecast before trips, and his prediction was that we could likely just barely thread the needle and squeeze the route in - woo hoo!!
Since there weren't any fixed ropes to Mammoth Terraces our plan was to climb Freeblast the next day, haul the day after, and spend that night, and the next one on Mammoth since it was suppose to rain and snow the day after we hauled.
The next morning we enjoyed a short "El Cap lieback" session before heading up the hill.
El Cap lieback before fixing: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qYqq36ouxqc
Sunkist follows a line up the center of the main shaded face on the left of this photo, to the left of the Shield, and just right of Son of Heart. It climbs a really spectacular panel of orange rock.
Coincidentally my buddy Dave Nettle and his friend Karen were planning to climb a route, and settled on the Triple Direct, so we joined forces to fix down from Mammoth. Soon we were on top of the Half Dollar, enjoying a nice though slightly windy day.
On top of the Half Dollar: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1U4l32-rNu4
The next day, Sunday, was a worker day, and even though the weather was suppose to turn bad, all we had to do was haul our bags 5 ropes to the top of Mammoth Terraces - something always best done in cool temperatures.
Above us is the Sunkist headwall which we will reach in about 5 days. Lucky for us we get to Mammoth, get the ledge set up and settled in just as the rain starts. Woody told us it would rain that night, with rain and snow the next day (which was a Monday), but it would clear out Monday night. Evidently we shouldn't see any precipitation then until Saturday night - just enough time to thread the needle and make it to the top.
Storming on Mammoth: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nukiTtWJmaY
Sure enough it rained and snowed on Monday, but by late afternoon the clouds broke and we were able to get out of the ledge, stretch, and fix a pitch. I clean and rap down in the dark.
The next day is nice, so we pack up and climb another 4 pitches, along with our junk show, to where Magic Mushroom and Sunkist part ways. It's still light, but we decide to relax and enjoy the view before we get on to Sunkist proper.
The next day puts us on the start of Sunkist. I get to lead the first pitch of the day past a loose block, with a pendulum and some traversing. One thing about this route is that there's a lot of traversing to get to the Sunkist headwall, but in the end it's well worth it.
We end up on this nice ledge and decide to fix a pitch to the base of THE slot. I'm looking forward to struggling up it first thing in the morning - it will be better than coffee.
The next morning I take the bare essentials - three #4 Camalots, a #4.5, and a #5 - luckily I don't mind the wyde, and the pitch turns out to really be not that bad!!
At this point you are pretty close to the headwall, and the rock is starting to really turn a burnt orange. Two more pitches get us there. Tom gets to lead the first of the three headwall pitches. This is what we've come here for - woo hoo!!
We're now bivied at the base of the main, long headwall crack. This single crack is somewhat similar to the pitch after the Triple Cracks on the Shield - steep, long, straight in, in orange rock, and in a stunning location. I get to lead this pitch first thing the next morning, and as advertised, it's a beauty.
The third headwall pitch leads us to the base of the infamous A5 Arch (now F1+, as in fixed something heads). Tom gets up on the pitch and is top stepping a #1 Pecker, which blows, and he takes a 40 foot upside down fall - he gets caught by another #1 Pecker right off the belay - bad form to fall on the belay mate, so glad you didn't. Man, I though he had ripped several placements, but it turns out that the slightly worked, and frayed, wires on three #2 Peckers broke, leaving the Peckers in place. Dang!! Tom gets back to the belay with a bruised rib, and I take over the lead, which is heads and Peckers for about 45 feet to a rivet ladder.
It's now Friday evening and weather is suppose to move in the next day. We're hoping it hasn't sped up, but we're unable to call Woody because my cell phone battery is dead. I decide to lead one more pitch in the dark to position us 2 1/2 pitches from the top so we can sprint to the top in the morning if need be.
The next day we wake up to threatening skies and know we have to punch it - so we're up early. I lead the next pitch, which puts us at a long, mostly free climbing pitch below the top - woo hoo!!
Soon enough we're on top where the real fun begins.
And I kid you not - we got down to the road at 10:30pm. I catch a ride to the car, drive the loop, and arrive back at Manure Pile to pick up Tom and the bags at exactly the moment it starts to rain.
The next morning we awoke to three inches of snow in El Cap Meadows.
Great route, great friend, and all the more satisfying since we barely threaded the needle between storms.
Thanks for reading....and WOO HOO!!
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Trip Report Views: 10,441 |
Gagner
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About the Author Gagner is a climber from Boulder. |
Comments
Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Wooooooooooooo-Hooooooooooooooooooo!!!!!! I'm "gaggin" over here!
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nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
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Spectacular perspective in the pics!
And I have to pay attention to that weather website!
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Wow! Unreal shots and a job well done.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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You need a huge wheel barrow for those BRASS BALLS!!
kick ass
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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Where's that rascal Jeremy, anyway? Eating crow, perhaps?
Great report!
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10b4me
Social climber
Lida Junction
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sweet
great photos btw
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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cool man, very cool.
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duncan
climber
London, UK
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"Yeeehaaarrr!" for gold headwalls.
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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Paul, VERY nice work by you and Tom up there. I am green with envy.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Now that's what I'm talkin' about....THANKS PAUL!!
Good job men!!
More Pix More Pix Morepixmorepixmorepix!!!
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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excellent. thanks
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Prod
Trad climber
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Great TR. Well worth the wait.
Your Youtube vids are private. Can you change that?
Prod.
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Jingy
climber
Random Nobody
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awesome trip report!!!
Great photos!!!
Private Vidoes?
felt like I was going to see some climbing porn... But got thwarted in the end.
Cheers
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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great pics and a nice write up. thanks for sharing.
keeps the working man from going too insane getting to escape into a TR for a bit.
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Slakkey
Big Wall climber
From Back to Big Wall Baby
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Great Report on a Great Route and some really fine pictures on top of that Cool.
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Author's Reply
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Jun 1, 2011 - 11:03am PT
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Thanks everyone.
Will someone please tell me how to change the youtube privacy settings ... I can't find a link to do that...
Paul
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Cain J Waters
Mountain climber
Ithaca, NY
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Excellent TR. Thanks for sharing. -CW
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Author's Reply
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Jun 1, 2011 - 11:10am PT
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Okay, I figured it out - will someone confirm that the videos work.
Thanks!
Paul
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Levy
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Nice job!
Sunkist is perhaps the best El Cap route I've done. I wish I had photos like Paul's, we took a disposable camera & lost it on the descent. :(
Way to get in an early season ascent in fickle weather.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Nice job. Those pics are sweet!
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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awesome t.r. guys. way to go for it with that threat of bad weather!
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FeelioBabar
Trad climber
One drink ahead of my past.
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awesome!
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Ian Gill
Big Wall climber
Redding, CA
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Awesome TR Paul - great pics!!!
Gets my blood boiling for a wall!!!!!
Way to use that secret weapon and thread it!
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Bravo Paul!!
Reading this, one would believe that an ol' couch like me could finally get up and open the 'fridge door for another beer. Man, now that is inspiration!
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Ottawa Doug
Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
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Thanks a ton for this TR Paul. I was on the shield in '94. I could easily be lured onto sunkist by this report. Just need to find a yound and strong partner. Awesome pics. Thanks again.
Cheers,
Doug
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tahoe523
Trad climber
Station Wagon, USA
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Thanks for sharing your TR and amazing photos! I caught of glimpse of you gentlemen from the ground and watched in awe.
Now, I sort of empathize with the tourons, gawking at the Nose, and asking, 'how'd they get the rope up there?'
I look at lines like Sunkist, Shortest Straw and the Sea of Dreams and quite often ask myself the very same question.
A job well done. Inspiring!
Cheers,
a small wall, C1 Junkie
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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This was great. Those headwall pics are stupefying.
A long, head-first fall onto the only piece above the belay, which was a pecker... makes me shudder.
Seems like 90% of the routes on El Cap are for the truly stout of heart, people for whom a fall like that isn't a show-stopper. Lots of respect to those who send stiff routes on El Cap!
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bringmedeath
climber
la la land
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BD is lame for using that #2 wire on the Pecker line!
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elcap-pics
Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
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Great stuff thanks for posting.
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Zander
climber
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All Right! thanks for posting. Great pics.
Zander
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waulrat
Big Wall climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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sweet TR! Stoked for you guys!
Thanks
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yo
climber
Mudcat Spire
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No clip wire. Wire bad.
Nice send!
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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WOW!!!!!!
Tell BD you want a refund, after that 40 footer!!!!
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D.Eubanks
Big Wall climber
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Way to knock off a killer route guys.
Great pics`too...
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Great report and photos, Paul - thanks for sharing!
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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great job you guys!
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Only in my dreams....way to power through and make that weather window! The views were stunning!
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Hey! I missed this one when we were up on the wall - great stuff, Paul!
I really enjoyed Sunkist, and believe it to be one of the best A3-ish routes on all of the Captain. I am in amazement at how few times Sunkist has been climbed since I did it in '97, but now that we've got it in the new McTopo it's sure to finally become popular - about bloody time.
Superb trip report, thanks so much for sharing.
Cheers,
Not-Even-Pitch-A-Day Pete
P.S. Pecker cables are really not all that strong, especially when they become slightly frayed. The two things you need to do is back up the cables with a hunk of tape that's the same length, and be sure to use Screamers on the pieces when you are so close to the belay.
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hollyclimber
Big Wall climber
El Portal, CA
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SO AWESOME GUYS!!! Thank you. I love the picture of the #5 Vermin hook - would not go on a wall without.
Awesome send, way to thread the needle.
Oh, I have Yates add spectra slings as small as they can make them to my BD peckers. I clip both the wire and spectra for pro and this also helps keep from damaging the cable when cleaning (no jerking hard on cable with funkness)
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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QUALITY!
Nice send.
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Mimi
climber
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Way to go, Paul! Looks like you had a blast up there.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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great effort by these guys, they only made it by putting the pedal to the metal. it starts raining just as the car reaches the manure pile, great threading guys. shipoopoi
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Bitchin' Bump for the GagMeister!!
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Carmel Climber
Mountain climber
Carmel California
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It goes to show the old guys can still teach the young whippersnappers a thing or two!
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Morgan
Trad climber
East Coast
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Winning!
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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AWESOME!!!
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The Cunning Runt
Boulder climber
Charlemont, MA
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Fine lookin' route, Gentlemen (and Tom, too! :) And beautiful photos!
How's Tom's rib doing?
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BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
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Jun 15, 2011 - 06:30pm PT
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Excellent!
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Jun 19, 2011 - 09:00am PT
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Beautiful photos and great report! Just climbed with Mr. Dickey yesterday and he pretty much gave the same account without the pictures.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jun 19, 2011 - 11:52am PT
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Just posting here to shine slightly in reflected orange glory.
Super photos and age-irrelevant story.
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Acer
Trad climber
CO
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Jun 19, 2011 - 03:37pm PT
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Awesome report.
Sign me up for the next ascent.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
On the road.
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Jun 19, 2011 - 03:42pm PT
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Good one, Paul, hey, BTW, are you sure you're not older than me.... you sure look older than me.
;-)
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Jun 19, 2011 - 08:00pm PT
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Hell Yeah! TFPU!!!
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jun 19, 2011 - 10:09pm PT
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Great trip report, and find pictures
Peace
Karl
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Author's Reply
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Jun 19, 2011 - 11:40pm PT
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Glad you guys enjoyed the TR.
Mark, just remember, you will ALWAYS be older than me. If I shaved my beard off I'd probably look about ten years younger - but then I'm too lazy to deal with shaving every day so that probably won't happen ....
Paul
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Zander
climber
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Jun 20, 2011 - 04:48pm PT
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Whoo Hooo!!
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Jun 20, 2011 - 05:04pm PT
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Fanstastic.
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jun 20, 2011 - 06:28pm PT
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Very impressive----and great story and photos to boot.
I'm going to have "big wall fall" nightmares tonight.
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NFB
Mountain climber
Wilson, Wyoming
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Jun 20, 2011 - 10:24pm PT
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broken wires? is that like the screamer rule: you deploy you buy...?
I likes me some aid climbing, even if it is from the couch. Thanks for the photos and stoke.
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Outdoorvangelist
Trad climber
San Juan Capistrano, CA
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Aug 31, 2011 - 12:17am PT
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INSPIRATION always, Paul. Thanks.
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piquaclimber
Trad climber
SEKI
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Oct 17, 2011 - 06:46pm PT
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Excellent report.
Thanks for taking the time to write it up!
bump
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Trusty Rusty
climber
Tahoe Area
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Oct 17, 2011 - 07:08pm PT
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Nice, way to go gents, Bravo.
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Dirka
Trad climber
Hustle City
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BUMP!
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NA_Kid
Big Wall climber
The Bear State
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Jan 24, 2013 - 12:20pm PT
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This deserves a BUMP.
Great photos, great story.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Jan 25, 2013 - 07:48pm PT
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Wooo Hooo! Get some.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Jan 25, 2013 - 06:51pm PT
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Killer Big Wall motivation!
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Spanky
Social climber
boulder co
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Jan 25, 2013 - 08:24pm PT
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Sunkist looks sick, nice job and another bump for rad climbing content!!
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skywalker
climber
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Feb 16, 2013 - 02:55am PT
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Bump!
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Johnny K.
climber
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Jul 16, 2013 - 07:17pm PT
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up
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Nov 12, 2013 - 01:09pm PT
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Bumpertastic
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
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Bumpidy bump
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Bump indeed. How did I miss this the first time? If (when) I ever get back on the Captain, Sunkist will be the ice breaker.
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