Trip Report
Summer in Tuolumne

by Ed H
Wednesday August 24, 2016 11:03pm
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Credit: Ed H
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Does it get any better than summer in Tuolumne or the High Sierra? I feel very blessed to have spent a couple of weeks there this year - climbing with partners old and new - exploring new routes and doing laps on the classics.

Chris and I simul'ed Tenya and Cathedral in a day. It was great to see that part of the back country again, and to move quickly over granite. He called it the Twin Tiara (you know - the moderate version of the Triple Crown...)

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Dan and I checked out Silicone Corner (5.7) on Doda Dome - it's a must do for crack addicts. SuperTopo 4 stars!

P2 Silicone Corner

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Silicone Corner P2
Silicone Corner P2
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P3 Silicone Corner

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Silicone Corner P3 - wow!
Silicone Corner P3 - wow!
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Views from Doda Dome summit

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Cottage Domes, DAFF, and Fairview
Cottage Domes, DAFF, and Fairview
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Found some new swimming holes

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Hiked out to Dark Side Dome with Jay, Dan and crew

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Darkside snow bank start

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Dan leads Imperial March (10a/b). Awesome route and location

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Did a lap on Fairview Reg Route P1-P4 - so splitter!

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Did a lap on West Crack - thanks to Stefan's friend for the photo work

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Team West Crack!

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Did a lap on South Crack with alternate finish with Peter from NZ.

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Dan the camp chef

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Spent my 30th summer with Rhonda

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We watched the afternoon storms light up the sky

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And made a run to Hilltop hot spring

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Did a lap on Pajama People 10b at River Wall in DAFF area. Sport climbing in TM!

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Did another lap on Cathedral - never gets old.

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Clipped some old hardware

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Finished with Eichorn's Pinnacle - love the aplite band

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Met Laure who built her own trailer and is on a year road trip

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Got Mike out of the office

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Marched Mike up the talus field approach to Hobbit Book

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Hobbit Book P1

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Did a lap on Super Chicken 5.9 - one of my favorite TM routes

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Was SO lucky to get rope gunned up The Yawn 5.9+

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Miss McD starts The Yawn P2.

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The Yawn P3

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Admired Lost Lake and Nazgul Wall after the Yawn top out

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Got a topo to Tony's Pony 5.9 on North Face of Lamb Dome - thanks Tony!

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Climbed Tony's Pony!

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Checked out Dog Dome

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The North Face of Dog Dome 5.8 - looks burly - maybe next year

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Did another lap on West Crack - mid week - so good...

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Hiked out to Young Lake

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Bivy with a view

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Ticked off West Ridge of Conness - yes it's worth the hiking...

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Snow on the Conness descent

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Checked out Canopy World on the way back. Home of some moderate cracks and more.

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Climbed P1/P2 of North Book Right 5.7 on Lamb and escaped on Green Goblin 5.9

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If you look closely you can see how KK feels about chimney...

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P3 & P4 of North Book Right. This is what 5.7 squeeze looks like - can you say bail!

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Built some anchors

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Admired the flowers

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Woke up to trees

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Watched the sunset on the river

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Did a lap on Bombs - thanks rope gun Dan!

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Said goodbye to Stately Pleasure with a lap on Great White Book

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See you next year high country! Thanks for all the great partners who made it happen. Hope to see you in the Valley this fall!

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  Trip Report Views: 3,155
Ed H
About the Author
Ed H is a trad climber from Santa Rosa, CA

Comments
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Aug 24, 2016 - 11:25pm PT
Holy taters nice round up of climbs!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
  Aug 25, 2016 - 12:01am PT
great to run into you up there Ed!

stoked!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Aug 25, 2016 - 03:25am PT
Thanks Ed, I always enjoy your TRs!!!!
Charlie D.

Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
  Aug 25, 2016 - 06:15am PT
Does it get any better than summer in Tuolumne?

Nope!!!

Thanks for the stoke Ed, heading back up next week.......can't wait.
kaholatingtong

Trad climber
The fake McCoy from nevernever land.
  Aug 25, 2016 - 07:07am PT
F*#k yeah
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Aug 25, 2016 - 08:12am PT
Yes!


Yes yes yes yes yes yes yes.


My heart longeth for the meadows!


Thanks for a report from the field. Takes me back there in an instant.

Scott
10b4me

Social climber
Lida Junction
  Aug 25, 2016 - 08:20am PT
What a summer! A great tr.
snakefoot

climber
Nor Cal
  Aug 25, 2016 - 03:27pm PT
Living the dream...great pics of an incredible place. a little east side tub action goes a long way.
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
  Aug 25, 2016 - 10:07am PT
Bravo
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
  Aug 25, 2016 - 10:44am PT
It is 1pm should I crack a brew.
I'll seriously consider it
Where's that lighter?

Way to grab Tony's Pony's second ?
. Xtra Cool, added X topo thnx !,
hamersorethumb

Trad climber
Menlo Park, CA
  Aug 25, 2016 - 11:09am PT
awesome love it
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Aug 25, 2016 - 02:03pm PT
Reading - and looking at the pictures - makes me jealous, because I haven't been able to make it there yet this year. Your picture of the North Book on the Lamb brought back memories from 46 years ago to me. Roper implied that the chimney and book were either fourth class or easy fifth (meaning, at most, 5.4). Accordingly, we went up with only enough hardware to set up belay anchors. The 5.7 squeezy sections were a surprise, to say the least!

Thanks for a wonderful report, and conveying so well the joy of spending a couple of weeks in heaven.

John
Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
  Aug 25, 2016 - 03:16pm PT
No place better. Loved the TR!

Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
  Aug 25, 2016 - 05:22pm PT
Very nice TR Ed H!
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
  Aug 25, 2016 - 06:08pm PT
Good stuff! Tuolumne is so awesome..
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
  Aug 25, 2016 - 09:23pm PT
The Yawn is so cray cray.
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
  Aug 25, 2016 - 09:42pm PT
Beautiful photos, great climbs, good times...

Bruce Morris

Trad climber
Soulsbyville, California
  Aug 26, 2016 - 01:07am PT
the North Face of Dog Dome 5.8

Actually did that route in 1977. It's bark is far worse than it's bite. Much nicer route than it appears to be from the base.
cleo

Social climber
wherever you go, there you are
  Aug 26, 2016 - 07:08am PT
This trip report makes me want to quit my job and get a new one at the Tuolumne Grill :)
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Aug 26, 2016 - 08:54am PT
Ed H thank you thank you this was fantastic thanks!
dirt claud

Social climber
san diego,ca
  Aug 26, 2016 - 09:06am PT
Great stuff Ed, thanks for the inspiration. Like Cleo says, this TR makes you want to just bail work and enjoy the good friends, trees, rocks and awesome nature
msiddens

Trad climber
  Aug 28, 2016 - 09:22am PT
Thanks Ed
Ed H

Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
Author's Reply  Sep 8, 2016 - 10:39am PT
Thanks for the climbing stoke people! Is it too early to work on next years tick list? This should keep me busy.

Cottage Cheese
North Butt Cathedral routes
Trilogy 5.8 var
El Condor
Curve Like Her
Jog Corner
Left Crack
Green Goblin
Cooke Book
North face Dog Dome
Polly Ann
3rd Pillar
Eichorn's direct
Piss Easy
Crescent Arch
Sunny Delight
5.7 crack on Razor Back
The Scratch

And of course a lap on Cathedral, Hobbit, and Little Sheba
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
  Aug 28, 2016 - 12:34pm PT
Does it get any better than summer in Tuolumne?
Judging from your report - Obviously not!
splitclimber

climber
Sonoma County
  Aug 30, 2016 - 12:45pm PT
Great stuff Ed!
Got a nice 20 min. session at the knobs on Sunday on the drive through.

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