Trip Report
Standing Rock
Thursday March 31, 2016 10:39pm
I didn't see any previous reports of this tower, so I thought I would post up a short TR.

My friend Charles and I decided to go check out Standing Rock in Canyonlands. After a few days of climbing towers around Moab, this would be the last on our short tour of classics in the area.

After climbing Washer Woman the previous day, we drove further down the White Rim and eventually pulled into a small wash and began looking for the descent gully. A few minutes later we located a short rappel and hiked into the drainage.

top left corner top right corner
Rapping into the decent gully.
Rapping into the decent gully.
Credit: kalockwood
bottom left corner bottom right corner

After a short hike we made it to the base of the tower.

top left corner top right corner
Approaching Standing Rock
Approaching Standing Rock
Credit: kalockwood
bottom left corner bottom right corner

top left corner top right corner
Credit: kalockwood
bottom left corner bottom right corner

The first pitch is a great stemming corner to a roof. After traversing right under the roof, you follow a wandering crack to a nice ledge (sorry no photos).

The next pitch climbs another wandering crack through some exciting bulges, past some old fixed relics, and to another comfortable ledge with three drilled pins, a star drive, and a 1/4" button head.

top left corner top right corner
Charles checking out the anchor on pitch 2.
Charles checking out the anchor on pitch 2.
Credit: kalockwood
bottom left corner bottom right corner

top left corner top right corner
Credit: kalockwood
bottom left corner bottom right corner

The 3rd pitch has a short 11+ crux to fun 5.10 face climbing. After that you can link with the 4th pitch which involves crumbly runout climbing while spiraling around the tower to the summit. Great views and a unique summit to end our short trip.

top left corner top right corner
Summit views
Summit views
Credit: kalockwood
bottom left corner bottom right corner

top left corner top right corner
Summit register
Summit register
Credit: kalockwood
bottom left corner bottom right corner

Two double rope rappels put us on the ground and we hiked back out to some cold beers waiting in the truck.

Cheers!

top left corner top right corner
Spring is here!
Spring is here!
Credit: kalockwood
bottom left corner bottom right corner



  Trip Report Views: 3,103
kalockwood
About the Author
kalockwood is a climber from Salt Lake City.

Comments
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Apr 1, 2016 - 06:34am PT
Nice! I've done Monster Tower and Washer Woman but Standing Rock remains on the short list.
NutAgain!

Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
  Apr 1, 2016 - 09:47am PT
Like like a great one!
this just in

climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
  Apr 1, 2016 - 09:53am PT
What a cool formation, big thanks for posting.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Apr 1, 2016 - 10:06am PT
Nice Work Men!

Blitzo at the first belay.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
  Apr 1, 2016 - 02:20pm PT
Been thru that basin twice. A fantasy land beyond description.
Lurkingtard

climber
  Apr 1, 2016 - 02:40pm PT
Can you aid the crux? Asking for a friend. I'm sure I'd float it, no problem.
More Air

Trad climber
S.L.C.
  Apr 2, 2016 - 07:17am PT
Great job Kevin, very beautiful remote area...wish I was there! Thanks for posting.
kalockwood

climber
Salt Lake City
Author's Reply  Apr 2, 2016 - 07:52am PT
Can you aid the crux?

Yes, it would be pretty easy to pull on draws through the crux. The whole tower could be lead at 5.10 A0.
Gagner

climber
Boulder
  Apr 2, 2016 - 08:10am PT
Awesome job .... Standing Rock is really an awesome tower and cool summit, and the cleanest of all the towers in Monument Basin. I did the 2nd or 3rd free ascent back in the mid-90's and recall a really bad bolt about half out on the crux...I imagine that's been replaced since.

Anyway, congrats and way to go. There are some other really good towers out there.....

Paul
Craig Fry

Trad climber
So Cal.
  Apr 2, 2016 - 08:20am PT
We did it with Todd Gordon and DE EE in the mid 80s
aided it of course, didn't know it goes free now

Did you guys find some of the cool red and purple Jasper near the base?
I still have the best piece on my shelf
Also found some calcite crystals.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
  Apr 2, 2016 - 08:21am PT
Short list, indeed! Did 't know there were any towers still legal to climb. ;-)
Gagner

climber
Boulder
  Apr 2, 2016 - 08:26am PT
Monument Basin is in Canyonlands. Monument Valley is further south on the Utah Arizona border....
overwatch

climber
Arizona
  Apr 2, 2016 - 08:29am PT
Is this the first belay referenced in the TR? What's with the bolts? Gear to supplement it? Giant ledge?

Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
  Apr 2, 2016 - 11:46am PT
You guys ROCK
kalockwood

climber
Salt Lake City
Author's Reply  Apr 3, 2016 - 08:34am PT
Is this the first belay referenced in the TR? What's with the bolts? Gear to supplement it? Giant ledge?

Yes this is the first belay but you don't have to use these bolts. There are two bomber bolts with chains you use instead.
crunch

Social climber
CO
  Apr 4, 2016 - 11:06am PT
Great to hear Standing Rock is still standing! Sounds like you had a fun time.
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Apr 4, 2016 - 12:09pm PT
Killer.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Apr 4, 2016 - 12:14pm PT
Excellent TR, so I forgive the lack of pictures for the first pitch.

;-)

When I first heard about this climb, the aid was in the A4 range, and the climb was considered one of the most frightening in the desert. It's interesting to read how time changes perspectives.

Thanks again for the trip report.

John

ddriver

Trad climber
SLC, UT
  Apr 19, 2016 - 08:48am PT
ttt for climbing

Thanks, spectacular place from above or below. Been in there twice using the old roadway from the west. You can walk from the White Rim road or ride your bike quite a ways back to where the wash starts down. Very enjoyable hike but takes quite a bit longer than the rappel. We had a multi-day biking permit one late October for a bike trip that didn't happen and were camped at White Crack so decided to give the Standing Rock a go. Did the first pitch and realized we weren't going to summit and make it to Taylor Canyon in the same day. That first pitch is great, just superb, but we rapped and managed to get to Potato Bottom after dark. Would like to go back just for this summit.
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Apr 19, 2016 - 09:32am PT
Hnnnnnnnnghh

Awesome thank you
Go