On a recent outing we headed to the Needles area in the Black Hills and climbed Spire Four. Spire Four was first climbed by the Conns (June 30, 1948) via the route we took - the West Amphitheater. Spire Four is the highest spire - it is higher than the adjacent South Tower by about 20". The South Tower kinda blocks the view of Spire Four from the highway.

From Hill City drive south toward Custer and turn at the sign highway junction to Sylvan Lake. Enter at the Park entrance and continue past the lake to the Needle's Eye area. Continue a couple miles further to the Cathedral Spires parking area. This area is about 200 yds past the first switchback on the highway at the Ten Pins turnout. Park in the parking area.

Hike 1/2 mile north on the trail and pass the spires to the north side. Before the trail turns to the east find some boot tracks to the right and follow a good climbers trail for about 200 yards. The trail goes right up to the Spire 3-4 gully where there is an 80' spruce tree blocking the bottom of the gully. This is where the climb starts. Alternatively if you can't find the boot tracks keep going to the open area north of the spires. From here you can get a better look at what your'e trying to find. Bushwhack over to the start.

Anyway climb a 75' pitch to a saddle between Spires 3-4. This saddle is a cool place. Scramble up east into the amphitheater 50'. Set a belay. If you fell from here I would say it would hurt, I don't care where you're from.

Climb a 75' pitch up a chimney at first then left onto the face past the rappel bolts to a nice ledge at the top of the chimney. Belay.

Climb another easy pitch north 75' to the top of crevice that splits the tower. Either belay or step across and finish the last 20'.

The first rappel is kinda diagonal. The second rappel is nice into the chimney and the third rappel takes you to the ground at the huge spruce tree.

This is a suberb route with good pro and good climbing. It is also quite easy as the chimney is the crux and only 5.5.

Remember your Helmets!