Trip Report
South Eagle Beak: A Tail of Two FAs

by this just in
Saturday January 30, 2016 10:16am
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Credit: this just in
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Eagle Beaks is my favorite area. I've spent days up there exploring caves, walls, and the evidence of the Monos who roamed throughout the area, hundreds of years before us. Some of my best days have been hanging in the area with my dog Adu.
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This is a story of two, simultaneous, FAs done in May 2011. Both of these climbs are nothing ground breaking, but two worthy 5.9s if you are in the area.


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2010/11 was a solid winter, especially compared to the following four years. We always get the Shuteye Fever and test the roads as soon as the gates open.


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After each drift the anticipation increases and the hope of smooth sailing sets in as a reality.


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Mac showing ideal limb tossing technique.


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Lol sums it up.


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Roads can be depressing when the rock is begging for company. This time the Shuteye Gods showed mercy on our attempt to reach the Heavens.


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After the always dreadful FA backpacking approach, Grahm Doe heads up the Classic Dopes to Infinity. To many Grahm will always be an enemy for things he's admitted to, but most who climb his routes and actually know him well, appreciate what he's done for the area. I'm sure some will express their undying hate for him here, but if that's what you feel you need to contribute, so be it. This is a GU Classic that he and Brandon McLemore put up and the route speaks for itself.


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Jeremy Ross heads up what we would name Parallax, 5.9.


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By now you all must be thinking, "What a f*#king awesome f*#king belayer. Getting two simultaneous FA shots and holding a rope at the same time. A true f*#king hero!"
Thanks guys I'm blushing now.


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Typical steep plates at Shuteye.


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Grambo bolting the exciting finish to Dopes.

Dopes to Infinity is the better of the two routes, but putting up Parallax was the better experience for myself. Jeremy has never been accused of taking photos, so I can't offer photo evidence of the second pitch, but will share what I remember.
Firstly, my dumbass self dropping the wrench on my second bolt. I had to hammer the bolt in, then lower to find the wrench and then climb back to where I left off. The highlight for me was bolting through the crux on I wouldn't say sh#t feet, but definitely focused on not blowing my balance. All while above some shitty mental pro, I remember as each centimeter dug in, if I did slip the drill bit might hold me. Hammering that bolt in and clipping was a big relief that so many of us know. This is why I will always be more fond of our route, but in reality if you are up there and only have time for one of the two, do Dopes.


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this just in 		About the Author
this just in is a climber from North Fork.

Comments
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Jan 30, 2016 - 11:14am PT
TJI!!

Awesomeness has descended upon you!!

Great pictures. Wish I could get to that area one of these days.
FRUMY

Trad climber
Bishop,CA
  Jan 30, 2016 - 11:42am PT
Yep, nice great pictures.
Banquo

climber
Amerricka
  Jan 30, 2016 - 11:59am PT
I lost a climbing shoe hiking in there about 20 years ago, let me know if you find it since I still have the other one.
Tork

climber
Yosemite
  Jan 30, 2016 - 01:32pm PT
Thanks Justin, great pics and fun routes! I have done both of them as well as Space Lord. Ran out of time before getting on Monster Magnet. It has been a few years but hope to make it out there this summer.
Highgloss

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
  Jan 30, 2016 - 01:38pm PT
Could you post the location on a google map? Thanks, Awesome photos!
Tork

climber
Yosemite
  Jan 30, 2016 - 02:14pm PT
If your in SF you should own the guide book. Shuteye Ridge by Grahm Doe, it's worth it.
chappy

Social climber
oakhurst
  Jan 30, 2016 - 03:09pm PT
Looks awesome Justin. Have to check Eagle Beaks out this year. See you Wed. at the S. Gate.
Chappy
Flip Flop

climber
Earth Planet, Universe
  Jan 30, 2016 - 06:19pm PT
Looks fantastic Justin.
RyanD

climber
  Jan 30, 2016 - 06:47pm PT
Awesome dude, except 3 things:


 dogs

 pretty sure that tree ur cutting is still alive

 and the thing that bugs me the most about this TR though, is that I always wanted to name a route "dopes to infinity". It's one of my favorite songs/albums of all time and I never thought in a million years I'd see someone else name a route after it. I had big plans for that one.

So......f*#k you guys for just going out and doing it ;-D

But on the bright side, now that I know there's a route named after one of my favorite songs/albums on that pretty shuteye stone, that cool dudes put up, i really want to climb it one day.

[Click to View YouTube Video]
rincon

climber
Coarsegold
  Jan 30, 2016 - 06:56pm PT
Nice place to have practically in your backyard Justin! Adu is a lucky dog as are you! Great pics as always.
limpingcrab

Gym climber
Minkler, CA
  Jan 30, 2016 - 08:19pm PT
Aaaaaaaaaaand, awesome.

Add those to the million other routes I need to climb at shuteye.

Thanks for sharing!
Stewart Johnson

Gym climber
top lake
  Jan 30, 2016 - 08:53pm PT
Impressively beautiful
this just in

climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
Author's Reply  Jan 31, 2016 - 05:58am PT
Survival, thanks and you gotta make it up there soon. Bring the family.

Thanks Frumy.

Tork, good to hear you've done them and Monster Magnet looks classic, I need to do that and Space Lord. Be cool to finally meet you up there.

Highgloss, sorry don't have the GPS for you, but it's easy enough to figure out, but I agree with Tork. Buy the guide, a lifetime of climbing in there.

Chappy, thanks man. Will definitely go up there with you and do some climbing. Looking forward to Wed.

Thanks Flip and Rincon. Hopefully you guys can make it to Southgate Wed at 530 as well.

Ryan, I had a good couple laughs outta that. You could still name a boulder/problem Dopes to Infinity. Parallax was named after a Between the Buried and Me album. Have I ever told you about those guys?

Thanks Ojai, not sure if Cole is making the Shuteye get together again this year, but you should cruise up with him if he does, or just come anyways.

Thanks to Limpingcrab and Stewart as well.
doughnutnational

Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
  Jan 31, 2016 - 06:52am PT
Awesome! A full on hillbillie experience. Dogs, chainsaws, chained up 4 wheeling and climbing above sketchy pro. I hope you were able to do some shooting and beer drinking too.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
  Jan 31, 2016 - 08:57am PT
Sure wish I were wealthy as Trump and healthy as a mule. Neither is likely.

But if I were, then I could helicopter up there from here every morning to put in a day's climbing.

Shuteye granite's awesome stuff.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Jan 31, 2016 - 09:16am PT
Yeah! We need more content like this!!!!
Can't wait for the Shuteye gathering!
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
  Jan 31, 2016 - 09:22am PT

The TR is very well headed, right to the end...
mike a.

Sport climber
ca
  Jan 31, 2016 - 08:25pm PT
Cool pix!
this just in

climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
Author's Reply  Feb 1, 2016 - 07:40am PT
Ludwig, we probably did some beer drinking, but don't recall any guns. Damn it!

Mouse, I wish the same on both accounts.

Yeah! We need more content like this!!!!
I agree V, trying to do my part. I know so many have cooler tales to share and hopefully they do.

Marlow, always good to hear from you.

Mike, Wed at 5:30.
Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
  Feb 1, 2016 - 09:11am PT
Fantabulous. Thanks.

BAd
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Feb 1, 2016 - 09:20am PT
Each season I get a little closer to climbing up by the South Beaks. TFPU. Looking forward to the first melt where we can get back up.
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climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
Author's Reply  Feb 1, 2016 - 09:37am PT
Cool pics. IMO, Dopes is the best single pitch 5.8 I've done.
Lol, I thought we rated Parallax 5.8 and Dopes was a 9. Maybe they are both 8s.
this just in

climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
Author's Reply  Feb 1, 2016 - 09:45am PT
Dude thanks for the bump, my ego is getting a boner.
Flip Flop

climber
Earth Planet, Universe
  Feb 1, 2016 - 10:42am PT
Let's go try out that new Jedi Ridge Ski Hill next week. I'm back in NoFo next Sunday. Midweek shenanigans?
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Feb 1, 2016 - 01:28pm PT
Those Beaks have fascinated me since I first saw a line drawing of them in the old Spencer Guide. Thanks for the stoke and the rad photos. Hope to get out there when the snow goes away.

Scott
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Feb 1, 2016 - 04:41pm PT
This looks so damn good.

What does the crack line go at?


Thanks for posting up man!
this just in

climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
Author's Reply  Feb 1, 2016 - 08:05pm PT
Thanks guys

Le Bruce, that's Monster Magnet 5.11c.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Feb 1, 2016 - 08:30pm PT
Great report JTI. Can't wait to get out there sometime.
splitclimber

climber
Sonoma County
  Feb 22, 2016 - 08:45pm PT
Need to check these climbs out. Thx for the TR
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
  Feb 22, 2016 - 09:35pm PT
Suuweet
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