Trip Report
Some fun in J-Tree: Gunslinger and some othe classics

by Josh Higgins
Monday April 26, 2010 11:28pm
Some buddies and I hit J-Tree for some self-annihilation. The punishment included, but was not limited to:

Gunslinger, More Funkey than Monkey, Father Figure, Hercules, Acid Crack, and Bachar Cracker of the Desert. For pics and a TR check out

http://pullharder.org/2010/04/26/desert-destruction/

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Cranking on Acid Crack
Cranking on Acid Crack
Credit: Josh Higgins
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Josh

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Josh Higgins 		About the Author
Josh Higgins is a trad climber from San Diego.

Comments
Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Apr 27, 2010 - 01:20pm PT
TR bump. Nice pics and a whip pic too!
aldude

climber
Monument Manor
  Apr 27, 2010 - 05:22pm PT
Nice TR on a rarely attempted route. However to achieve an ascent of a route that was freeclimbed on the first ascent you will have to do likewise (contrary to Bobs' comment).
Josh Higgins

Trad climber
San Diego
Author's Reply  Apr 27, 2010 - 05:58pm PT
Yeah, I'm sure he meant 3rd party to climb the route but maybe I hadn't told him we pulled on a bolt yet? In any case, I never claimed a proper "ascent" and I was quite clear about pulling on the bolt. However, I did claim to have had fun which is what really matters. Really aldude, who cares?

Josh
aldude

climber
Monument Manor
  Apr 27, 2010 - 06:07pm PT
Not burning you Josh.....but I care....I want the third!
Josh Higgins

Trad climber
San Diego
Author's Reply  Apr 27, 2010 - 06:21pm PT
Touche!
bob

climber
  Apr 27, 2010 - 06:31pm PT
I've been up gunslinger and its what you say it is for sure. I won't even share with you the sh#t details of our ascent, but we did the moves!!!!!!!!!!!!
Nice work y'all. F*#kin hard men.
Thanks for the TR!
Bob J.


PS.
If you read this: Aldude, you got something up on Yasoo besides the Chief?
Josh Higgins

Trad climber
San Diego
Author's Reply  Apr 27, 2010 - 06:54pm PT
I'm fairly certain that this thing has seen more ascents than people think. Not many more, but I highly doubt I'm the only one that noticed a 5.12a/b route with 5 stars in the guide. Louie Anderson said he climbed it, someone else talked about an anchor on mountain project, etc.

Josh
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Apr 28, 2010 - 07:56pm PT
very cool!
Note, like you wrote, it's 'Pigpen'. Not Bachar Cracker of the desert. FA Mike Paul
marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
  Apr 29, 2010 - 08:58am PT
My money's on Dave Struthers having done it sometime in the mid to late 90s. That kid was wicked fit. Probably still is.
Josh Higgins

Trad climber
San Diego
Author's Reply  Apr 29, 2010 - 09:59pm PT
Coz,

Bob Gaines recounted a tale of you dropping the hammer while putting in a bolt on the last pitch. He said that he caught it after it fell about 30-40'. Any other interesting tidbits about the climb?

Josh
bob

climber
  Apr 30, 2010 - 05:44pm PT
That first pitch is so good for crumble slab. The holds I used I don't think I ever broke. I was so stoked, floating up feeling as though I was making some good headway on a hard pitch, then, right at the end I slipped off the smallest edge friggin known to man. Ugh! It took a few tries to get that move as I recall. You got sh#t for putting in too many bolts! Whoa. Heady stuff in spots. My buddy Drew and I were both freaked on the last pitch. I thought I was gonna break my ankle or something. Drew didn't want it I don't think (though I'm sure he would now) and our buddy was up rapping in taking shots. He clipped that high bolt and allowed a toprope ascent of the last pitch. Yeah, we got to the top, no we never sent the route bottom to top. I wonder what we would have done if Greg wasn't up there shooting pics. Three pitches from the ground up and one ground to a pulp. It would be nice to go give that another go sometime.
Nice work on that one. Sounds like a great FA experience.
Bob J.
Josh Higgins

Trad climber
San Diego
Author's Reply  Apr 30, 2010 - 07:47pm PT
Bob, it's amazing that you pulled the moves on the 1st pitch but not the 4th. Different skill sets I guess. That first pitch I was just sitting there looking at it thinking WTF!?! That top pitch had some features to work with so I was loving it! Nice work on getting all the moves. I sure didn't.

Josh
ShibbyShane

Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
  Apr 30, 2010 - 08:02pm PT
Link isn't working for me...
Josh Higgins

Trad climber
San Diego
Author's Reply  May 1, 2010 - 12:11am PT
The link should be working in the near future. The guy who's supposed to be paying the bills for the server space switched e-mails when he graduated and didn't get notice that the bill was due... He took care of it today, but I don't know how long until whoever runs the server puts it back up. Sorry about the dead link in the meantime.

Josh
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
  May 1, 2010 - 02:36pm PT
Coz had me pegged there...I did call it the Pigpen, but like he said we always had AKA's for stuff...Even myself! Cheers, Michael Paul AKA Watusi...
ps: Jaybro, AKA "The Off-Width Machine!" :)
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