Trip Report
Smith Rocks Outback Survey, 2013, The Grinch
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Tuesday June 25, 2013 8:37pm
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I had to go to Bend and help my mother with some chores and projects.
But, I wanted a little something more! Something to connect me to the way back spirit me.
It took about 2.5 seconds for the Grinch to respond when I asked him to climb Squaw Rock with me. He is a major big shot in Portland construction and it's not easy for him to get away.
Well, for us old timers, it was a crossed T, a dotted i.
Scott and I started climbing together at Smith Rocks in the days of goldline rope, before the days of Alan Watts and the sport clipping revolution.
We had been talking about hiking to, and climbing Squaw Rock since before Christ was a Corporal.
There it is in the waaay distance.
Getting closer already!
Scott was my first REAL partner, who was willing to tackle something beyond ourselves, in about 1976.
Climbing is so great, because it makes it easy to want to spend time with a brother 35 years later.
Since the main crags at Smith Rocks got really "popular" in the early/mid 80's, one of my main goals in life has been to be AWAY from the zoo aspect. Scott feels the same, so talking him into something FAR away was a no brainer for me.
Well, we got what we asked for in the far away category......
You know my M.O., I will be posting a lot of pics in a moment, after I deal with a couple family issues.
I love you SUPERTOPROPE!
survival
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About the Author
survival is a big wall climber from A Token of My Extreme. |
Comments
Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 25, 2013 - 08:39pm PT
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I love you SUPERTOPROPE!
Pervert!
Now, where are those pictures...
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Jun 25, 2013 - 09:14pm PT
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Ghost, ILYTB!
This is a test, since these gawdamn websites keep changing shit!
See the bird in the lower right?
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Jun 25, 2013 - 09:05pm PT
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ARRRGHH!! SEE WHAT I MEAN?!!
Archeological site!!
Upside Down Purple Monkey Face!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Jun 25, 2013 - 09:03pm PT
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Back side of the Monkey.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Jun 25, 2013 - 09:14pm PT
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First real break site!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 25, 2013 - 09:54pm PT
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Ghost, ILYTB!
NTTAWWT
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Jun 25, 2013 - 10:03pm PT
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NTTAWWT
Oh yeah? Well CCCSITSASGFUAR!!
The climb itself was unremarkable, so this TR isn't about the move by move reporting, but more the MOOD by MOOD reporting.
Most of you know that I prefer to let my pictures do the talking, so enjoy if you can!
Some old cowpoke tied off his barbed wire to a hole in the stone. I LOVE IT!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Jun 25, 2013 - 10:23pm PT
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OK, so after like a week of walking, hiking, dragging, crawling, we were almost there!
We instinctively knew that after 35 years of NOT getting out there, today had to be the day.
Lucky for me Scott was always good at putting his head down and driving on like an Army Ranger when the situation called for it.
Aww heck, what kind of a pussy am I? It's only a 10-12 mile day....
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Grinching
Trad climber
State of Confusion
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Jun 25, 2013 - 10:36pm PT
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Bruce,
These are great. I am still buzzing about getting way out there above everything else at Smith Rocks ....
Great trip!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 25, 2013 - 10:55pm PT
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Does this bring back some memories?
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Jun 25, 2013 - 11:34pm PT
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Yes Ghost, EVERYTHING brings back memories there!
Scott, I'm just grateful that you were there for me, again, when it mattered. You have come through for me so many times...
I'll keep posting these pictures:
Yes, that IS Monkey Face down there in the lower right corner!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Jun 26, 2013 - 01:40am PT
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Purrrty flowers all over!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Jun 26, 2013 - 10:27am PT
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We made it!!!
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Alpinista55
Mountain climber
Portland, OR
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Jun 26, 2013 - 12:16pm PT
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Bumping up this Smith Rocks gold! Way to get outback, Survival. BUT, next time you're in Bend, you'd better pop over the hill to PDX, dammit...
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Jun 26, 2013 - 02:42pm PT
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summits matter. :)
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Jun 26, 2013 - 05:09pm PT
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Thanks Jay!
Yeah, I know it ain't cutting edge alpinism like you did, but I get some decent pictures no matter where I go.
And damn it was beautiful up there!
Lookie the size of that sage!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jun 26, 2013 - 05:25pm PT
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Back in the day I soloed up Squaw Rock and spent the afternoon reading Castaneda on top. There were a couple of vultures flying around the rock at eye level.
A couple of days later I found out that while I was hanging out up there reading Carlos discussing Western society's fear of death, among other things, two good friends were dying in Alaska.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Jun 26, 2013 - 05:51pm PT
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That is very cool Oplo. (Not the friends dying part, I mean the solo, book and birds...)We had some crazy bird action up there too! They're not very used to people up there.
The next day we had a beautiful drive, and I showed Scott the sight of my first major choss first ascent, when I was 15, right about the time I met Scott.
Here it is...... A real beauty eh?
It's taller than it looks!
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Jun 27, 2013 - 06:25pm PT
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Great stuff Bruce, thanks!
Looks like you've got a life-long climbing partner there!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Jul 20, 2013 - 12:39am PT
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Thanks Ezra, and eKat!
You make my day.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Jul 20, 2013 - 11:45am PT
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Awesome photography!
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jul 20, 2013 - 11:52am PT
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I've only seen those fins on the skyline from below and far away, as points to muse over. It's great to get a tour out there from a guide who has earned the privilege to go off trail. Through the photos I get to see the ground up close and look back from distance to the main area. Oplopanax' post did the same for the distance between NOW and THEN.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Jul 22, 2013 - 03:22pm PT
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MH2, I have to say, that is one of the nicest and most thoughtful posts I have seen in a while. Thank you.
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 22, 2013 - 11:16pm PT
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Survival,
I really like the TR seeing the rock, and way back when (ok definitely NOT bitd only early 90s) it was a good treck. It looks like you took the long way around(?).
This was a g'd'n, thanks,
Darwin
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