Trip Report
Shuteye Adventure Part 2: nth time's a charm (or, finally getting my 6 y.o. niece on some real rock)
Saturday April 2, 2016 9:25pm
The thread for the forthcoming Shuteye get-together reminded me that I'm roughly 10 months overdue on this, so...

Prologue
Part 1

Last spring I tried to get my sister-in-law and her (then) six year old daughter on a rope multiple times, failing for a variety of reasons, and I knew I had limited time as summer began to rev up before the weather window closed, but after wham-bam 24 hour scouting trip I knew I had found a memorable spot for finally achieving success. So the weekend of July 4th we were back out at Shuteye!

After a crack of eh start, and the long, twisty, bouncy, (slightly woozy), ride in, the stoke is still high!
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I love the approach trail to Queen's Thorne. It's a (relatively) mellow 45 minutes, through a variety of stunning terrains and ecosystems, with equally stunning views.

At the trail head.
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Da Brim sighting!
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Cool rock.
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Cooler rock!
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Little Shuteye Pass
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Shameless selfie (technically "groupie", I guess).
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Down in the creekbed between the pass and the dome.
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And back up over talus...
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...and across slabs.
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A little natural shade along the way.
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And a bit of manmade shade at the destination (good thing I lugged those couple of cams in).
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Unfortunately I don't have any pics of the last bit of the approach (immediately preceding the previous shot), where it gets a bit...spicy when it turns from a mellow 1st/2nd class ramble into an exposed 100' 3rd class downclimb, to a ramp perched well above the tops of the trees in the valley below, giving you an immediate sense of air as soon as you start climbing. But to get a feel for it, here's the scouting pic I took the previous trip up:
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Move downhill at the right tree on the top of the dome, follow the water streaks directly below it to the ramp, then take the ramp down and right to the prominent white streak on the headwall (after 4 chaperone trips to keep everyone safe and on route, and 2 or 3 gear shuttle trips [plus repeat all that on the way back up] I got fairly familiar with it). The tops of the trees on the dome side of the canyon are roughly even with the next ramp below the one were were on.

My wife and I went first (no pics of that either), then it was my niece's turn!

Tying in.
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A bit of a tricky start.
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Off on her own now.
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Navigating the roof.
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Found a good stance.
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At the top!
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Next was her mom's turn. Nearing the top:
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Parting shot of the day, looking down on our little basecamp before breaking it down (also gives a peak at how high above the ground the climb is-like I said, big air right off the deck).
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All-in-all, a full value day.

  Trip Report Views: 1,933
looks easy from here
About the Author
looks easy from here is a climber from Ben Lomond, CA.

Comments
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
  Apr 2, 2016 - 09:58pm PT
good times!!
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
  Apr 2, 2016 - 10:13pm PT
Wow, pretty adventurous location to do with such young ones. I'm sure that's a day they won't forget.
Flip Flop

climber
Earth Planet, Universe
  Apr 2, 2016 - 10:15pm PT
Heck yeah! Good Job Pops.
looks easy from here

climber
Santa Cruzish
Author's Reply  Apr 3, 2016 - 01:53pm PT
Thanks.

Wow, pretty adventurous location to do with such young ones.

I had previously tried a couple slow-pitch spots (Swan Slab and Aunt Fanny's), where we got shut out by crowds and mosquitoes, respectively, but once I figured out they were down for a hike...Game on!
NutAgain!

Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
  Apr 3, 2016 - 05:07pm PT
Dude, I'm going to follow up with you to get some more approach beta. I've never been to Shuteye, totally clueless where to go. Looks like you found a family-friendly jackpot!
limpingcrab

Gym climber
Minkler, CA
  Apr 3, 2016 - 06:37pm PT
Sweet! Wish I started climbing at her age... Nice of you to take her up.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Apr 3, 2016 - 07:23pm PT
Very nice!!
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Apr 3, 2016 - 08:15pm PT
I could tell from the topic it was going to be good. +1
looks easy from here

climber
Santa Cruzish
Author's Reply  Apr 4, 2016 - 12:23pm PT
Looks like you found a family-friendly jackpot!

Shuteye definitely has some great family climbing-mellow grades, amazing features, bolted anchors, room to spread out at the base-IF said family is up for 30-90 minute approach hikes (which I've seen plenty of evidence your is). You also have the bonus of having kids who are old enough to take advantage of the head start on the day dispersed camping offers.

Wish I started climbing at her age.

Me too. that's part of the reason I'm passing it on. The other part is purely selfish-I'm counting on at least some of the kids I get out to return the favor and be my ropegun down the road.
cragnshag

Social climber
Gilroy
  Apr 4, 2016 - 02:05pm PT
Good stuff!

There is a more mellow approach that starts at the back end of the big campsite. Follow cairns down and around. You end up at the bottom of the big slab with the water flow. From there, it's just a short scramble to the base of the main face.

This approach goes to the main face which is a bit less exposed at the base so good for the chillin's but you will find fewer bolted rappel anchors here.
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climber
Santa Cruzish
Author's Reply  Apr 4, 2016 - 07:29pm PT
This approach goes to the main face which is a bit less exposed at the base so good for the chillin's but you will find fewer bolted rappel anchors here.

I consciously sacrificed a big secure base for lots of features (even easy slab can be a bit subtle for a 6 year old), low grades (5.4-5.6) and short, 40-50 foot routes (easy to stay in contact, verbally and visually, all the way to the top, plus a bigger sense of accomplishment to make it to the top of a 40' route than the middle of 100' route, imo).
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Apr 5, 2016 - 11:47am PT
Wonderful! This makes me even more sorry I couldn't make last year's Shuteve gathering, and anxious to participate in this year's.

Thanks much.

John
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