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 This is sort of what I hoped Scottish winter climbing would be like: steep ice, rock, snow, maybe some frozen turf, and snowy weather (pic on Headless Gully taken by Crag Jones - 2/1/14). Much of the climbing was that and brilliantly fun! Credit: BMcC |
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After the Moose's Tooth, over beers talking about Shaken, Not Stirred, Gregory Crouch also shared with me stories of his adventures climbing in the winter in Scotland and generously loaned me a guidebook (Winter Climbs Ben Nevis Glencoe by Ed Grindley) and some topographic maps. I would have to go!
A bit later, the American Alpine Club (AAC) announced a call for applicants to attend the British Mountaineering Council (BMC) International Winter Meet 2014 at the Glenmore Lodge in the heart of the Cairngorms. The 2 nominees from the US would be responsible for their own travel expenses, but the event lodging and meals are highly subsidized by the BMC.
Both Steve and I applied thinking that we could plan our Scottish climbing trip around the BMC International Winter Meet, if either one or both of us had the good fortune to be nominated by the AAC. We could even score some points at home if we invited our wives (one each) to join us afterwards for some touristing in Scotland.
I lucked out. BMcC would be going to the BMC International Winter Meet. Steve and I coordinated our plans to climb in Scotland and for touristing with our wives to follow.
There were 44 guests from 26 countries teamed up with a like number of UK host climbers. As an international guest, I climbed each day with a host and was shown "the full delights of Scottish winter climbing." Since I was going as one of two from the States (Patrick Cooke was the other AAC rep), I volunteered to do an evening presentation about climbing ice on this side of the pond (I showed this video by Ed Hartouni of our climb of the Ames Ice Hose in Colorado http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XTcnHIK-xts and a subset of the pics from my Moose's Tooth climbs with Steve http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Mooses-Tooth-Ham-and-Eggs-and-Shaken-Not-Stirred/t11971n.html). Scottish winter climbing was fun, my hosts were great, the weather was Scottish, and the time flew by in a blur.
The following are pics from climbing before, during, and after the International Winter Meet and a few from our touristing in Scotland. Becky McGovern (Meet organizer) sent out my email address to the Meet hosts to let them know that I was coming early and interested in climbing before the Meet. Within minutes of her sending out my address, I was getting offers. I took the 1st (from Susan Jensen), because it seemed too good to pass up. It was. The next person to offer to climb with me was Andy Nisbett (author of Scottish Winter Climbs, other guidebooks, and about 1000 first ascents). Via Andy and others, Steve got an invite to stay and climb with Masa Sakano who would not be a host at the Meet, but was getting out almost regardless of the weather and route conditions.
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 The Sierra Nevada looking much too dry and snowless (1/22/14). Credit: BMcC |
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 My stopover and change of planes in Newark, New Jersey, were an uneventful blur (1/22/14). Credit: BMcC |
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 Control tower at the airport in Edinburgh at daybreak (1/23/14). Starting my 1st day in Scotland, I de-planed got my bags, went through customs and was greeted by Susan Jensen who had very generously volunteered to be my host and climbing partner prior to Credit: BMcC |
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 Inverkeithing in the Kingdom of Fife, located along the Firth of Forth (1/23/14). Heading north to climb. Credit: BMcC |
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 The Cairngorms. Credit: BMcC |
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 Map in the Ling Hut (the hut is below the mid-point on the bottom of the map; 1/23/14). We were going to climb the next day on Coire Dubh Mor on Liathach (wiki: a coire or cirque, also called a corrie or a cwm, is a terrain feature created by glaciation). Credit: BMcC |
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 Sunrise (1/24/14). Credit: BMcC |
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 Coire Dubh Mor on Liathach (1/24/14). Credit: BMcC |
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 Susan approaching steeper terrain with icy and mixed bits above - on George, a fun little route on Coire Dubh Mor on Liathach (1/24/14). Credit: BMcC |
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 Somewhat higher on George (Scottish III, 4). We each trailed a rope for the 1st bit and then started belaying in the upper 1/5 of this pic for a pitch each of steeper stuff. Credit: BMcC |
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 A pleasant view with the sea in the distance (probably the Sea of the Hebrides - the North Atlantic is beyond the Sea of the Hebrides and the Hebrides Islands). Credit: BMcC |
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 Susan planning our descent with the wind trying to blow her off the summit ridge (1/24/14). Credit: BMcC |
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 Looking back across the face of Coire Dubh Mor (1/24/14). Turned out that climbing and avi conditions were better here in Torridon than the Cairngorm or Ben Nevis areas, so I was back here for another 4 fun routes. Credit: BMcC |
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 Torridon trailhead sign. I climbed more in Torridon than I did anywhere else in Scotland. Credit: BMcC |
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 Masa Sakano, Steve Towne, Rob Goodman and Susan in the pub in the Glen Hotel in Newtonmore. Steve had arrived that morning in Edinburgh, rented a car, and drove hours on the wrong side of the road to get to Masa's. Credit: BMcC |
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 Haggis neeps and tatties (described on the menu as haggis, clapshot, and whiskey sauce) in early celebration of Robbie Burns Day (the 25th of January). Tasty. Credit: BMcC |
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 Weather conditions were forecast to be quite unfavorable for climbing at higher elevations, so Susan chauffeured Steve and me to Elgin to visit the Elgin cathedral ruins that date back to the 13th century. Prior to my taking this pic, it really was rainy. Credit: BMcC |
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 Susan (1/26/14). Before Susan and I checked in with the BMC International Winter Meet at the Glenmore Lodge in the Cairngorms, we went with Steve and Rob to Inverness to climb indoors since the weather was uncooperative again (too warm, wet, and windy). Credit: BMcC |
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 Becky McGovern beginning her overview of our week of daytime climbing and evening presentations during the BMC International Winter Meet (1/26/14). Simon Richardson (the evening's presenter) and Nick Colton (event coordinator with Becky) sitting on left. Credit: BMcC |
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 Socializing in the bar at the Glenmore Lodge with some of the hosts and 42 climbers representing 26 countries at the Winter Meet. Credit: BMcC |
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 Doing the Fiacaill Ridge on Coire An T-Sneachda in the Cairngorms with Alan Hinkes (the 1st Briton to climb all 14 of the world's 8,000 meter peaks and my climbing partner/host for the 1st 2 days of the Winter Meet; 1/27/14). Credit: BMcC |
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 Unknown climber topping out on an unknown (to me) route on the Fiacaill Buttress in Scottish conditions (1/27/14). Scottish conditions. Credit: BMcC |
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 Alan posing below our route (1/28/14). We were back to Coire An T-Sneachda to climb a route called Invernookie on the Fiacaill Buttress. Many of the climbers visible in the picture above Alan are on "our" route. Credit: BMcC |
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 These guys generously shared their belay with us (1/28/14). You can see 2 pairs of ropes in this pic - 1 pair belongs to the leader in this pic and the other to the leader of the team ahead of these guys (and ahead of us). Crossed ropes, but zero hassles. Credit: BMcC |
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 Easy fun and almost steepish (1/28/14). 3 pitches. Alan coming up. Credit: BMcC |
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 Having fun (1/28/14). Great attitudes. Credit: BMcC |
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 The Triple Buttresses on Coire Mhic Fhearchair on Beinn Eighe - back in Torridon (1/29/14). My host for the day Gwilym Lynn and I climbed the West Buttress (just right of the middle of this pic). Credit: BMcC |
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 Gwilym heading up Fuselage Gully to access our route (1/29/14). Parts of an American plane which crashed much higher in gully during World War II serve as rap anchors for climbers descending the gully. Other parts have been avalanched down to lake level. Credit: BMcC |
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 Gwilym starting up (1/29/14). Credit: BMcC |
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 Gwilym coming up (1/29/14) Credit: BMcC |
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 Gwilym at the belay below the last pitch (1/29/14). Credit: BMcC |
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 Gwilym on an airy belay stance (1/29/14). Credit: BMcC |
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 Nice views below through the clouds and blowing snow (1/29/14). Credit: BMcC |
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 Great T-shirt at the evening talk - meanwhile, down in front Nick Bullock gave a hilariously entertaining and dynamic presentation (1/29/14). Credit: BMcC |
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 Since avi and route conditions were not great in the nearby Cairngorms, early starts with drives of several hours and approach hikes of hours became the rule. The early breakfast sign out sheets were fair predictors of the late-to-dinner people. Credit: BMcC |
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 A line of climbers heading for our route - Scabbard Chimney on Stob Coire Nan Lochan left on Glen Coe near Fort William (1/30/14). Time to re-think our choice of routes. Credit: BMcC |
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 New plan. Crag Jones, my host, heading for Raeburn's Route on Stob Coire Nan Lochan right on Glen Coe (1/30/14). Credit: BMcC |
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 Knifeblade (called a peg over there) placed and about to head up (1/30/14). Among Crag's many climbing accomplishments, he was the 1st Welshman to summit Everest. So unassuming. Credit: BMcC |
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 View from the 2nd belay. Where the rope drops over the edge below, the snow was wonderfully steep and firm (neve). Credit: BMcC |
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 Somewhat steep getting to the summit. Credit: BMcC |
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 Ft. William from the summit (1/30/14). Ft. William makes a great base from which to climb routes on Ben Nevis (the tallest in Scotland at 4,409' or 1,344 m) and Glen Coe. Credit: BMcC |
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 The weather forecast for the 5th day of the Winter Meet convinced our expert readers and interpreters of Scottish weather and mountain conditions that we should go somewhere other than "high" - solution? dry-tooling in the rain (1/31/14). Credit: BMcC |
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 Nice views of the loch from where we parked (1/31/14). Not long after our driver fired up the van, I was sound asleep and then suddenly awake back at the Glenmore Lodge. Credit: BMcC |
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 Nice sunrise from the trail on the last day of the BMC International Winter Meet as Crag Jones and I headed for the Headless Gully on Coire Dubh Beag on Liathach in the Torridon Estate (2/1/14). Credit: BMcC |
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 Wonderful Scottish scenery and (yay!) not raining or snowing on this approach. Credit: BMcC |
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 Our Headless Gully is just left of center (2/1/14). Credit: BMcC |
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 That's the backside (descent side) of Beinn Eighe in the distance (2/1/14). The views wouldn't quit. Credit: BMcC |
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 Headless Gully on Coire Dubh Beag on Liathach in the Torridon Estate from closer in (pic courtesy of Crag Jones; 2/1/14). Credit: BMcC |
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 My 1st Headless lead (huh?).( Pic courtesy of Crag Jones - 2/1/14). Credit: Crag Jones |
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 The ice was quite nice. Credit: BMcC |
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 Crag's lead (2/1/14). Credit: BMcC |
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 Self - yes, I was having a very good time! (2/1/14) Credit: BMcC |
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 After our last climb (Headless on Liathach on the Torridon Estate), the Meet events included a closeout reading of the names of routes climbed (a bunch new) and areas visited, and a very fun, loud party in the bar that lasted many hours longer than I did. Credit: BMcC |
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 Parting shot of the Glenmore Lodge as Steve and I moved onward for more Scottish winter climbing (2/2/14). The previous week had flown by with iffy weather, rotten weather, beautiful weather, changeable weather, long drives, and some fun routes. Credit: BMcC |
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 From the Glenmore Lodge (they had no post-Meet space), did errands, sight seeing and moved into Steve's and my home-away-from-home (2/2/14). Nice facilities, kitchen and dining area, each had our own bunkroom, and some weak wifii for emails and weather. Credit: BMcC |
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 Services were available next door (2/2/14). The Suie Bar was a couple of steps farther away, as we discovered later, and worth the extra steps... Credit: BMcC |
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 Sunrise on our drive out west to the Cobalt Buttress on Meall Gorm (2/3/14). Several parties from the Winter Meet had climbed there 2 days earlier and found good conditions. Credit: BMcC |
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 What a beautiful place to live (2/3/14). Almost no traffic on the main roads on our drive to Lochcarron and only sheep on the single track roads. Credit: BMcC |
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 After hours of driving with high winds and discouraging air temps of 6-10 degrees Celsius (that's 43-50 Fahrenheit), we got to see our destination - the big snow-free buttress in the right foreground (2/3/14). Credit: BMcC |
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 The Cobalt Buttress on Meall Gorm goes generally up the right edge of the tallest buttress trending up leftwards from the scree gully (2/3/14). Andy Nisbet defines "Winter Conditions" basically as white (snow or ice covered) and frozen. This wasn't. Credit: BMcC |
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 Highland cow near Balnacra, Scotland. Credit: BMcC |
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 After our Cobalt Buttress drive, Steve and I met Andy for dinner at the Old Bridge Inn and discussed options. Andy invited us to join Sandy Allan and him on a new route in the Northern Highlands. Dave MacLeod was coming along to film them. Credit: BMcC |
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 Approaching Andy's secret Peak "X" - somewhere near Glen Shiel (2/4/14). Credit: BMcC |
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 Steve, Sandy, and Andy climbing to our 1st belay stance (2/4/14). Andy disappeared up and away. Unconsolidated snow over steep rock with too little turf, gave way resulting in a leader fall. Mostly uninjured, he invited Steve to give it a go. Credit: BMcC |
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 Steve went up, pushed the route a bit higher, and sprained an ankle on his 4th fall (2/4/14). Dave had rappelled down from the top of the cliff and got some video of Steve's falls. With Steve injured, it was time to go. Credit: BMcC |
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Here's a link to the video which Dave MacLeod made for the Fort William festival honoring Andy Nisbet and capturing Steve's falls on video... http://vimeo.com/87197149 - you can copy and paste it into your browser window to watch it. Quite well done!
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 Dave snapped this pic of Sandy, Andy, Steve, and me outside the Cluanie Inn's Public Bar where he'd just conducted his interviews (2/4/14). Great people. Credit: BMcC |
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 Stopped by the Aviemore Health Center a few miles N of the CCC to get Steve's ankle examined (2/5/14). The receptionist asked Steve a few questions and filled in a few lines on a form. Saw med specialist. No signature or fee. Total time 17 min. Credit: BMcC |
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 Availed ourselves of the services of the Suie Bar (just around the corner) after a slide show at the CCC on the experiences of an English teacher in India and Nepal, along with some trekking and adventuresome train travel (2/5/14). Credit: BMcC |
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 Back to Coire Dubh Mor on Liathach in the Torridon area in the Northern Highlands with Susan (2/7/14). Steve was unable to climb due to his sprained ankle, but was able to meet his wife and mine in Edinburgh a bit earlier than we had planned. Credit: BMcC |
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 Looked like a crowd on Poacher's Fall (FA by Andy Nisbet, 1978)- 2 other parties of 2 were there ahead of us (2/7/14) Credit: BMcC |
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 Small world - the climbers were Swedes and included my friend Per whom I had not seen since a shared ice climbing trip in Laerdal, Norway, 8 years ago (2/7/14). Credit: BMcC |
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 Some fun steep ice climbing (2/7/14). The route had more ice (and far less rock and turf climbing) than any of the other climbs I had done in Scotland. Susan on the right. Per on lead just below her. Credit: BMcC |
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 One of the Swedes nearing the top of the steep fun (2/7/14). Another pitch to go and only a short wait for my turn to continue. Taking care to not knock stuff off, there was plenty of room for our 3 parties of 2 and fun for all. Credit: BMcC |
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 Susan catching up with me while I snapped pics of the beautiful views (2/7/14) Credit: BMcC |
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 View and even some blue sky (2/7/14). Credit: BMcC |
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 Almost down (2//7/14). The peak dominating the right quarter of this pic is Beinn Eighe - the East Butress of which we would be on the next day. Credit: BMcC |
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 The back side (descent side) of Beinn Eighe on the Torridon Estate in the Northern Highlands (2/8/14). Credit: BMcC |
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 Plan: climb the East Buttress of the Triple Buttresses of Beinn Eighe before the weather tanked (2/8/14). Credit: BMcC |
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 The traverse to the start of the East Buttress (2/8/14). Credit: BMcC |
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 Arrived to find a crowd already lined-up to climb "our" route (2/8/14). Credit: BMcC |
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 Susan cruised this steep corner rather wait behind the others for the easier 1st pitch (2/8/14). Credit: BMcC |
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 Lower angled, easier terrain, but party ahead was still moving slowly, so we decided to leave rather than finish late in bad weather... Credit: BMcC |
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 Eilean Doran Castle (2/9/14). Raining pretty heavily, so we drove to Fort William to visit Per before we relocated to the CCC to climb in the Cairngorms again. Credit: BMcC |
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 Back to the Cairngorms with Susan (2/10/14). My last day of Scottish winter climbing on this trip. Very windy on the plateau well above the ski resort. Goggles and mittens. Credit: BMcC |
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 Out of the wind, getting our climbing gear on (2/10/14). Credit: BMcC |
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 Susan heading up our route - the Sermon - steep ice and snow to the left facing corner in the center of this pic (2/10/14). I think Andy said ours was likely the 3rd ascent of this route. Credit: BMcC |
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 Susan belaying me from below the crux corner on the Sermon (2/10/14). Credit: BMcC |
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 Susan cruising the crux (2/10/14). While following Susan's lead, I noticed that my right crampon wasn't behaving as I expected. Turns out I had lost my right front point. Credit: BMcC |
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 Susan on our 2nd route of the day (2/10/14). Ramps and steep pillars of ice. Cruiser fun ice even with one limping crampon. Credit: BMcC |
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 Take away dinner (take out) after a splendid day of climbing (2/10/14). Where I had fish and chips (fried breaded fish and giant french fries), Susan had the fish and the ever-popular mashed green peas. Credit: BMcC |
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 The World's End pub a the edge of the old city of Edinburgh (2/11/14). Ann and I had lunch there several times as it was close to our apartment. Credit: BMcC |
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 The Royal Over-Seas League Private Members Club (2/11/14). We were Susan's invited guests to a Scottish Mountaineering Club meeting and presentation on the adventures of 4 UK climbers who sailed 4 weeks from Canada to Greenland, to climb in the fjords. Credit: BMcC |
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 Evening moon over Edinburgh (2/11/14). Credit: BMcC |
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 Stopped off for a brief a distillery tour reserved for our foursome by Steve and Lynn (2/12/14). It's located in the Grampian Mountains at an elevation of about 1073'. It was storming (blowing and snowing) as we headed north on our couples tour. Credit: BMcC |
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 Bagpiper on the Royal Mile en route to the Edinburgh Castle. Credit: BMcC |
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 Invisible man sighting (2/14/14). Credit: BMcC |
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 Edinburgh Castle (2/14/14). In the 1st Century AD, local people built a fort here. Additions, renovations, razings, and rebuilding followed. Credit: BMcC |
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 The remains of St. Anthony's Chapel on the flank of the Salisbury Craigs above Edinburgh (2/15/14). Built sometime prior to 1426. Credit: BMcC |
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 Castle view over the rooftops of the Waverly Station (2/15/14). Credit: BMcC |
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 Borderlands from the tour bus en roiute to the Glenkinchie Distillery (2/16/14). Very smooth but I think I prefer the Dalwhinnie scotch. Credit: BMcC |
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 View from one of the many closes (an alleyways) along the main street of Old Town Edinburgh, now known as the Royal Mile (2/17/14). Some interesting historical info on closes on wikipedia (search for: "List of Closes on the Royal Mile"). Credit: BMcC |
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And this brings me to the close of my trip.
My trip to Scotland was quite fantastic due to the wonderful Scots and others we met, who hosted us, climbed with us, made touristing suggestions, etc.
I wish to thank: The American Alpine Club and John Bragg for nominating me to attend the BMC International Winter Meet; Becky McGovern (Meet organizer) for sending my email address out to the Meet hosts letting them know I would arrive days prior to the Meet and was anxious to climb; the hosts (many) who generously offered to host and climb with me prior to the Meet -- especially Susan Jensen whose offer I accepted and with whom I had the pleasure of climbing before and after the Meet, Andy Nisbet who also offered to host me (mere minutes after I had received and accepted Susan's offer) and who put Steve (my climbing partner and friend from Colorado) in touch with Masa with whom Steve climbed while I was pre-occupied with the Meet, and Sandy Allan (Piolet D'Or winner) with whom Steve and I did part of a climb and in whose converted police station I was housed for a couple of stormy nights; and Lynn's friend Beatta who gave us suggestions for our touristing days; Greg Crouch for loaning me topo maps and a guidebook for winter climbing in Scotland; and, of course, Steve for coming to Scotland to climb with others during the Meet and with me after the Meet, and Lynn and Ann for coming over to tourist with us. Thanks, also, to others whom I have not named. Good memories of good times in Scotland!
I hope you enjoyed the pics!
