We spent 6 days, 4 climbing days and many hours in the rain in the Saber Ridge / Angel Wings area. In a word – fantastic. Most anyone that has been in the area in the last few years and has seen and experienced the new routes and fantastic scenery agree – there is going to be a lot more activity here in the future. But it is a long way in at 16 miles of hiking and substantial elevation gain.


First, some logistics. We used a mule supported trip put together by Sierra Mountain Guides (http://www.sierramtnguides.com) with guides Peter Croft and Howie Schwarz and climber Amy Ness as camp manager / cook. My wife Betsy and I have used SMG twice before to accomplish climbs in the backcountry we couldn’t do alone – Third Pillar of Mt. Dana and a one day ascent of Fishhook Arete on Mt. Russell.

Somehow, someway, the trips just keep getting better.



On this trip we had the awesomely good luck to have terribly bad weather. We had planned to do Saber Ridge the first climbing day but it was already cloudy the evening before and the forecast wasn’t good. Peter explained that Saber Ridge has a long and committing ridge traverse (like Mathes Crest but harder to escape off of) that would result in a lengthy exposure to weather. Instead of Saber Ridge, Peter said, would we be interested in being involved in putting up a possible new route on The Prism, a similar rock formation next to Saber Ridge? He warned it could be an adventure, we may need to back off for numerous reasons, we would have to carry a bolt kit and pitons, etc.

Let’s see. Be involved in a possible first ascent with Peter Croft, or read a book in camp because it may rain? Tough decision.

We got up at 3:30 am and left camp at first light, clouds already filling the sky. At daybreak Peter and Howie were racing back and forth across the base of the climb, with Peter saying, “I think this will work. Yes, It looks great!” Nothing like the enthusiasm of Peter Croft to get you hyped up for a climb.


The first two pitches were fun on super clean rock with a few sections of 5.6. The third pitch was extremely run-out with no pro on fun, easy, highly featured rock, except it turned to 5.7/5.8 about 20 feet before you could get a sling around a jug. We discussed later and agreed a bolt would be beneficial to the climb, but we also all agreed there was no way anyone was going to stop and put one in with the clouds already threatening to rain at any moment.

The crux came later in the climb, with Peter taking a proud and vertical line. Although it was extremely enjoyable watching Peter work out the line and moves on an unknown route, a constant and predictable thought cycled through my head: “Can I follow that?”. It turned out to be steep but quite doable and later we all agreed it was 5.10 something. Betsy followed Peter then Howie also led the pitch and I followed. A super classic pitch in my opinion, and in fact a super classic climb. I’m looking forward to Peter and Howie’s description and rating. You can find more route information on Howie’s blog at http://www.sierramtnguides.com/new-routes-in-sequoia-national-park/


Fortunately we kept our speed up on the climb because Peter and Betsy took refuge under a tree while Howie and I got drenched at 11:30 am while coming off the climb. By noon we were back in camp and by 3:00 pm we were all napping with heavy rain beating down on the tents at Tamarack Lake. A glorious nap.


We were back up at 3:30 am to do Saber Ridge and were thankful to see a sky of stars but were then dismayed to see the stars disappear by first light. “Well”, Peter and Howie said, “there is this short line on Angel Wings that we’ve been eyeing. We don’t think anyone has done it. Are you guys up for it?”

Seriously? Another possible first ascent with Peter Croft? Simply the right place at the right time.

A few minutes later we were off heading towards Angel Wings. This line is of course much shorter and much more moderate than the modern classic Valkyrie that Dave Nettle, Peter Croft, Brandon Thau and Greg Epperson put up in 2012. But still it turned out to be another classic (in my opinion). It was a six pitch sustained 5.7/5.8 with a 5.9 crux step around / traverse into a crack. At one point it was déjà vu. I was belaying Peter up through a vertical line through a small roof and it looked a little imposing. But he would reach into a crack and break into a wide smile. Then he would reach up again and smile. Finally, about halfway up, he turned and said, “Alpine climbing just doesn’t get any better than this”. And it was true.


Again we made it back to camp by noon and were asleep in the rain shortly after. What terribly, terribly great weather.

Even though the weather didn’t seem to be getting any better (or worse, or whatever, because now I’m confused as to what is good weather and what is bad weather) we decided to do Saber Ridge but keep our speed up. As usual we left camp at first light and started climbing about dawn. As reported, Saber Ridge is an extremely fun route, both the climb (short 5.7 sections) up to the ridge and the long, fantastic and exposed ridge traverse. The “Saber” portion is great, with a super hand traverse on the thin “saber” ridge but little traction for your feet.


Our luck held out and we were able to get off the climb at around 11:00 am (a reasonably fast pace for the Saber) just as the raindrops started to fall, followed by the hike to camp and another one of the best naps in my life under a pounding rainfall.

The next day we hiked out the 16 miles under blue skies, then waited a couple of hours for the mules to show up with our stuff. An incredible trip.