Trip Report
Replacing the crux bolt on p5 of Hemispheres, Fairview Dome (8/17/2013)
|
Thursday August 22, 2013 2:53am
|
|
Some days ago an acquaintance asked me if the bolts on Hemispheres were good. I checked the list on safeclimbing.org and replied they had all been replaced in the 80s. Actually he went ahead and climbed it with his wife and daughter before he got my reply. In his photos from the climb, he noted that the crux bolt on p5 was an old one - 1/4" buttonhead with Leeper hanger. Fortunately there was a crack a bit below and 5.10+ was no problem, but still....
Roger was off for the weekend, so I made it my mission on Saturday to correct the situation. I hiked to the top with 2 light 60s (and a 3rd 50) and rapped to the U-shaped bowl. Then fixed down over the big roof which Fairest of All traverses under.
I rounded out the day by rapping down Mikey's route Night Shift, and finally replacing the first bolt on Piece de Resistance (and removing the first bolt on p2 of Piece, which was right next to one of Mikey's new bolts).
I never climbed Hemispheres or Piece de Resistance even when I was climbing better, so this was kind of a "lightweight inspection tour". Maybe a bit like the times I've rapped down Hall of Mirrors in the course of bolt replacement. It may be on aid, but it's still fun.... :-)
Clint Cummins
|
|
About the Author
Clint Cummins is a trad climber and rap rebolter from SF Bay area, CA. |
Comments
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
|
Aug 22, 2013 - 03:05am PT
|
Kick ass!
|
|
bob
climber
|
|
|
|
Aug 22, 2013 - 05:24am PT
|
Thanks Clint. I remember that thing. The route is such an adventure. I remember a SAR buddy admitting that he ignored his pager just after the second pitch lead because he didn't want to have to lead it again. When I did it, we flipped for first lead so I got to follow the second. Yeah!!!!
Thanks again.
Bob J.
|
|
Reeotch
climber
4 Corners Area
|
|
|
|
Aug 22, 2013 - 06:57am PT
|
Good job, man!
We thank you for your service.
|
|
the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
|
|
|
|
Aug 22, 2013 - 09:17am PT
|
that is such a bad ass route. I did the 2nd ascent with Dimitri in 85 or 86. way way fun, scary good climbing..
|
|
Rockin' Gal
Trad climber
Boulder
|
|
|
|
Aug 22, 2013 - 01:52pm PT
|
I did this climb with Alan Nelson at about the same time as the kid, or maybe earlier. I did the 5.8 pitches (first and last?), might as well have been soloing. Guess you can say that about the rest of the route, too.
|
|
dave goodwin
climber
carson city, nv
|
|
|
|
Aug 22, 2013 - 02:01pm PT
|
Thanks for all the hard work. I met Roger at the Tuolumne grill parking lot yesterday and chatted with him for quits some time. Really nice guy, was eager to share what you guys are up to!!
|
|
HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
|
|
|
|
Aug 22, 2013 - 02:48pm PT
|
Well done Clint.
I never liked buttonheads even Back In The Day.
Did you say your head came loose because a nail fell out?
That's gotta explain SOMETHING.
|
|
Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
|
|
|
|
Aug 22, 2013 - 02:50pm PT
|
Good on Ya Clint!!!!
|
|
msiddens
Trad climber
|
|
|
|
Aug 22, 2013 - 03:34pm PT
|
Clint, you are my hero. Thanks again for the service and also TR.I enjoy these
|
|
Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
|
|
|
|
Aug 22, 2013 - 05:28pm PT
|
Thanks for the work Clint. The old one looks surprisingly good. Never know what you're going to get when you pull those.
|
|
NutAgain!
Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
|
|
|
|
Aug 22, 2013 - 05:46pm PT
|
If there's a climbing heaven, Clint should definitely get admission. I guess having fun on Fairview Dome is pretty heavenly, so I guess he's already there?
Thanks for community service :)
|
|
cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
|
|
|
|
Aug 23, 2013 - 01:50pm PT
|
Thanks Clint!!!
|
|
Zander
climber
|
|
|
|
Aug 24, 2013 - 10:08pm PT
|
Sweet!
|
|
NilsDavis
Trad climber
Bishop
|
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2013 - 12:37pm PT
|
Thanks Clint.
Wanted to mention in here also that when Mikey and I put up Retrospective, we placed 1/4" bolts on lead, ground up, but then went back and pulled all and replaced with 3/8".
Retrospective joins Hemispheres for a touch then crosses Fairest of All to go straight through the roofs.
To this day I don't think it's been done more than twice. Worth doing and would love for it to get more traffic.
Here's the info:
|
|
hamersorethumb
Trad climber
Menlo Park, CA
|
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2013 - 01:20pm PT
|
Thank you for your work.
|
|
RealOldTradClimber
Trad climber
Greenfield, NH
|
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2013 - 01:36pm PT
|
Hi, Clint. Thanks. I certainly appreciate all the good new bolts in Tuolumne! Madeleine and i spent three weeks climbing there last summer and kept noticing the beautiful new 3/8" bolts.
BTW, how long does it take to replace one old button head bolt?
Michael Lehner
|
|
NilsDavis
Trad climber
Bishop
|
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2013 - 03:25pm PT
|
RealOldTradClimber, it takes about half hour at the most to replace a buttonhead. Depends on the driller though!
|
|
|
 |
|
Recent Trip Reports
- The Kohala Ditch Trail: 36ish hrs on foot... to and from the headwaters. [5 of 5]
May 31, 2019; 11:57pm
- A Winter Traverse of the California section of the PCT Part 8
May 31, 2019; 11:18pm
- Supertopo,A trip report for posterity
May 31, 2019; 11:00pm
- Balch Fest 2013. Two Days in and Around and On The Flake. The Official Trip Report
May 31, 2019; 10:57pm
- TR: My visit to the Canoe
May 31, 2019; 10:24pm
- Death, Alpine Climbing, The Shield on El Cap
May 31, 2019; 4:07pm
- Andy Nisbet (1953-2019)
May 31, 2019; 2:11pm
- Drama on Baboquivari Peak
May 31, 2019; 1:19pm
- Joffre + The Aemmer Couloir: ski descents come unexpected catharsis [part 2]
May 31, 2019; 7:45am
- Lost To The Sea, by Disaster Master
May 30, 2019; 5:36am
- My Up And Down Life, Disaster Master
May 29, 2019; 11:44pm
- Halibut Hats and Climbers-What Gives?
May 29, 2019; 7:24pm
- G Rubberfat Overhang-First Ascent 1961
May 29, 2019; 12:28pm
- Coonyard Pinnacle 50 Years Later
May 29, 2019; 12:24pm
- Great Pumpkin with Mr Kamps and McClinsky- 1971
May 29, 2019; 12:02pm
- View more trip reports >
|
