Trip Report
Red Castle Peak, Uintas. TR
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Friday July 20, 2012 3:08pm
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Rudyj2
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About the Author
Rudyj2 is a trad climber from UT. |
Comments
PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
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Jul 20, 2012 - 03:11pm PT
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Mummified hummingbird?! Weird . . .
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Jul 20, 2012 - 03:16pm PT
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that mountain looks awesome!
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Jul 20, 2012 - 03:26pm PT
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Nice!
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Rudyj2
Sport climber
UT
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Author's Reply
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Jul 20, 2012 - 03:31pm PT
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Yeah, the hummingbird was weird. I guess it wasn't technicaly mummified more like dessicated I guess.
And yes....it is a very awesome mountain, someday I hope to go back with more time and more sack.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jul 20, 2012 - 04:32pm PT
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Looks awesome. Would love to get into the range sometime.
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10b4me
Social climber
Lida Junction
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Jul 20, 2012 - 04:38pm PT
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looks good, what kind of rock?
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Rudyj2
Sport climber
UT
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Author's Reply
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Jul 20, 2012 - 04:40pm PT
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Quartzite for the most part. Some shale layers and some places where the quartzite more closely resembles sandstone.
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labrat
Trad climber
Erik O. Auburn, CA
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Jul 20, 2012 - 04:57pm PT
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Thank you!
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Zander
climber
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Jul 20, 2012 - 11:20pm PT
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Looks like fun back there. Thanks for posting.
Z
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fsck
climber
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Jul 21, 2012 - 01:58pm PT
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very cool. the uinta range is so awesome. some of the best cragging and bouldering i've done. i might have to take a trip up and check out this peak. looks like a great place for some adventure climbing.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 22, 2012 - 10:54am PT
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You don't see that everyday.
In particular, this idea that the closer you get, the better the rock looks!
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Dirka
Trad climber
Hustle City
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Jul 22, 2012 - 01:32pm PT
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sweet!
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dfinnecy
Social climber
'stralia
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Jul 22, 2012 - 04:27pm PT
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From Summit Post:
Another very rugged peak is located in the north central portion of the High Uintas Wilderness Area. This is the famous Red Castle. The true Red Castle (northern peaks of the massif) is or was reportedly unclimbed according to several sources dating at least as late at 1991. I can’t confirm this for sure, but was told so by several rangers and climbers when working as a backpacking guide/instructor in the High Uintas Wilderness in 1990 and 1991. If anyone knows if this is or isn’t the case, please post and addition/correction here. If this really is the case, it would certainly make Red Castle one of the last unclimbed peaks in the Rockies. In any case, it looks horribly loose and dangerous, but not completely vertical.
Surely it isn't unclimbed? Was it unclimbed in 91? The rock looks great upclose,...
TFPU!
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Rudyj2
Sport climber
UT
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Author's Reply
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Jul 22, 2012 - 04:54pm PT
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I doubt very much that it was unclimbed before this summer, and if it was unclimbed before....it has been climbed now. We found a cairn on top of the Red Castle Northeast Peak also. That one at least had been climbed before.
The Hummingbird was in a protected spot at the base of the wall and may have been a somewhat recent casualty.
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John Butler
Social climber
SLC, Utah
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Jul 22, 2012 - 09:48pm PT
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I love the North slope of the Uintas... you can spends days up there and not see anyone.
TFPU
I think I need to get up there again.
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fosburg
climber
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Jul 22, 2012 - 10:40pm PT
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Very nice!
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Bowser
Social climber
Durango CO
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Jul 22, 2012 - 11:03pm PT
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Awesome adventure climbing. Great job guys.
TB
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Rudyj2
Sport climber
UT
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Author's Reply
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Sep 6, 2012 - 10:45am PT
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I added a topo of the route we did.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nicely done....looks like good quartzite.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Good lookin' line and rock!
Thanks for the TR.
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Rudyj2
Sport climber
UT
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Author's Reply
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Sep 6, 2012 - 06:33pm PT
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Thanks.
Pretty much a consolation prize when considering the scope and size of the terrain. Any ascent of the Red Castle Peaks from the west side will require a pretty large amount of effort and more time then we had. I hope to go back next season, maybe with horsepack support.
For now it is on to the East face of Yard Peak to have a look at potential.
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