Trip Report
Puntalunya - Spanish sports climbing for climbers who can't crank real good
Sunday February 22, 2015 10:20am
Spanish sport climbing. It’s just so hot right now. Every winter the climbing magazines, websites and social media feeds are heaving with pictures of really really ridiculously good looking Iberian limestone, with the inevitable lithe young thing gurning their way up lines of perfect pockets and tufas. There’s the world’s hardest, of course, and a stack of testpieces for the best to throw themselves on, but what about the rest of us, the punters – is there much in Spain for us?

Yes, absolutely. Over the last year I’ve made three trips to Catalunya, climbed on some of the best crags I’ve ever visited, and barely scratched the surface. My partners and I have been climbing in the extremely average V to 7a region (5.8 to 5.11d) and never run out of routes. Great rock, stunning views and a welcoming pan-European scene make Catalunya a joy to climb in.


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Siurana - the Valley Crags in the evening sun.
Siurana - the Valley Crags in the evening sun.
Credit: seankenny
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Preparations for the first visit of 2013 were less than ideal. I’d been training well in December and January but February was taken up with urgent house moving, culminating in a hectic week: Wednesday, get the keys to the new flat; Thursday, install carpets and pack; Friday, move all our stuff; Saturday, clean up the old place; Sunday, up at 4am to catch an early morning flight from London to Spain, leaving behind a flat with cardboard boxes stacked to the ceiling and a rather grumpy better half. I was knackered, but it was clear that I had to make this trip count as I wouldn’t be doing much climbing on my return.

We flew to Reus, just south of Barcelona and less than an hour’s drive from Siurana, and were climbing by lunchtime. Siurana consists of two broad areas. The Valley Crags are all easily seen from the road driving up, a set of cliffs facing all directions, including the magnificent El Pati, home to Las Ramblas and other showpieces of high-end sports climbing. Keep on driving up and around the hairpins, and the road takes you to Siurana village, whose houses have huddled on this rocky escarpment for a millennia. The Village Crags sit on the south side of the spur, overlooking a deep wooded gorge.

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Siurana village catches the last of the light.
Siurana village catches the last of the light.
Credit: seankenny
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We spent the next few days exploring both Valley and Village cliffs. Whilst Siurana definitely has most to offer at 6c and above, there are more than enough easier routes to keep you going for days. It’s just a case of picking out the slabbier areas in-between the really steep bits. The rock is a joy to climb on, solid and well-featured limestone, with friendly and sensible bolting.

Although most people stay in Cornudella or other nearby towns, our accommodation on this trip was about an hour’s drive away, along a ridge strung with wind turbines and overlooking the plains of Lleida to the north. Driving at dusk, tired from the day’s climbing, with the car stereo blasting out – of course it would have been easier and more sensible to stay closer, but those drives gave us a sense of the scale of this magical corner of Europe.

After a rest day we upped the ante a little. After some warm-ups, Duncan and I were looking at the sweeping walls of El Pati. Whilst the left-hand side of the crag barrels out and up, the right hand is more amenable and has some fantastic long routes in the lower 7s.

“We’ll do that one,” Duncan said, pointing at a route called Crosta Panic, at 7a+ a bit of a step up for both of us. Half-an-hour later Duncan had dispatched the route, and then I did the same. My hardest ever flash (although it’s really 7a), this was a route of two halves: a thin, technical wall, followed by a roof and short but steep section of jug-pulling to the chains. It’s one thing to push oneself, another to do it on such a fine cliff.

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Duncan on the lower wall of Crosta Panic, 7a+, Siurana.
Duncan on the lower wall of Crosta Panic, 7a+, Siurana.
Credit: seankenny
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Nervously eyeing up the steep section of Crosta Panic, 7a+, Siurana.
Nervously eyeing up the steep section of Crosta Panic, 7a+, Siurana.
Credit: seankenny
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Still, after several days in Siurana we fancied a change, and headed to the rather fashionable Margalef, a small valley lined with conglomerate cliffs. At first sight, it’s not that impressive, a lot of scruffy little crags right by the roadside. I fell off the undercut start to the warm-up route – the rock has a tough quality about it that makes climbing here feel a bit like being punched in the face. Since the easy routes were hard we decided to climb some harder things, which turned out to be excellent. The Margalef of the magazines features an overhanging line of one and two finger pockets, but we climbed some good slabby and merely vertical routes festooned with pockets of all sizes.

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Climbing Chachi Qui Chapi, 7a, Margalef.
Climbing Chachi Qui Chapi, 7a, Margalef.
Credit: seankenny
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Before the drive home we went to take a look at “El Laboratori”. This is really something else, a whorl of grey and black rock smattered with tiny chalked pockets, home to a brace of testpieces including the Sharma super-route “First Round, First Minute”. Just looking at them is enough to set off tendon niggles in your fingers. First Round, First Minute has two holds I’d recognise as such in 40 feet.

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The chaps checking out Mr Sharma.
The chaps checking out Mr Sharma.
Credit: seankenny
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I was back in Catalunya in late October, this time not with my regular London climbing partners but two old friends from my hometown in northern England. Preparations for this visit too, were less than ideal. I’d spent September working in South Sudan, and although I did a surprising amount of climbing near the capital Juba, as well as some training in the gym, I wasn’t feeling on top form. Three days before the trip I was bouldering at my local climbing wall. I dropped off the last boulder problem of the night and the instant I landed felt my lower back crumple. By the time I got home I could barely reach down to remove my socks.

“Your back will get better soon – but no climbing for a few weeks!” my doctor said. I took the pills he offered but not the advice. I nearly didn’t go - I was worried I wouldn’t be able actually carry my bag to the car - but decided to try some toproping and threw in an extra novel in case it didn’t work out.

I met Chris and Dave at Barcelona airport and we headed up to our rented apartment in Ulldemolins, a village about 15 minute’s drive from Siurana, surrounded by fields and dramatic hills. I was only planning on top-roping at first, along with Chris who at 69 feels his leading days are over. It went okay, I got up a few easy routes but something was lacking. My body felt a lack of resolve, a sort of feebleness. Of course it did – alongside the anti-inflamatories I was taking strong muscle relaxants to prevent any back spasms. No wonder I was feeling particularly weak!

I decided to restrict the pills to the evenings only, which meant that waking up was like being carried into consciousness on a soft fluffy cloud, but by lunchtime I was okay to put some effort in. Top-roping soon got stale and by the Thursday I’d even taken some leader falls.

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Chris and Dave, chuffed to be in the sun in November.
Chris and Dave, chuffed to be in the sun in November.
Credit: seankenny
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Alongside many of the same sectors of Siurana, we went to Arboli, which had some good lines, and Chris and Dave visited the short but sweet hilltop crags at Vilanova de Prades. By the end of the week we’d paid another visit to Margalef. It was the November 1st, we were climbing in shorts in the shade, and up the valley we could see other teams working on fierce-looking projects – it was clear to me on this trip that there’s a huge amount of climbing at Margalef, and would be worth a trip in its own right.

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Ignoring my doctor's advice about not climbing, and my girlfriend's ab...
Ignoring my doctor's advice about not climbing, and my girlfriend's about not wearing those shiny shorts in public.
Credit: seankenny
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It would have been sensible to go there for the latest visit, a four day weekend in February 2015. But instead we went to the climbing areas around the city of Lleida, to the north of the Siurana region. The crags are superb but everything is a bit more spread out, making for a fair bit of driving in a short trip. But I wanted to visit some new areas so Lleida it was.

Rather than take one of the bargain airways which fly from London’s peripheral airports, we went with British Airways from Heathrow – this would be ideal for the travelling climber going to Spain via the UK. It’s a bit more of a civilised experience, too. The hire car company was quick and efficient (don’t go for Goldcar in Barcelona, as their offices and parking are a bus ride away – extra faff in a short trip), and we were soon heading up to the hills. But it was cold. Really cold. Snow covered the ground and we had visions of dripping crags and baltic conditions.

We were basing ourselves in the village of Vilanova de Maia, in a little refugio in the centre of the old village, up narrow streets too small for a car. In the morning we saw what a stunning situation this village is in, surrounded by mountains and cliffs, bathed in light from the bluest, clearest skies. Sutri, the refugio’s owner and a climber himself, took some of the team off to the tiny shop and showed them the best olive oil and manchego cheese.

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Inside the refugio.
Inside the refugio.
Credit: seankenny
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Perfect climbing conditions at Vilanova de Meia.
Perfect climbing conditions at Vilanova de Meia.
Credit: seankenny
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For our short first day we climbed at some cliffs near the village. There are some reasonably graded five and six pitch climbs on one side of the gorge, but we were here for single pitch sports routes. Despite crunching up snow on the approach, conditions at the crag were excellent, down to t-shirt or a light jumper. After some warm-ups we got on an excellent 6c called Hobbit. I was climbing with Mark, an old university friend who regaled me with tales of doing an ironman in the summer. This was his first climbing trip in a long time and he was psyched… but then disaster struck. Climbing up a delicate groove on Hobbit he did something to his shoulder on a long press move, and was soon in a lot of pain.


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Tania on Hobbit, 6c, Vilanova de Meia.
Tania on Hobbit, 6c, Vilanova de Meia.
Credit: seankenny
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The next morning he went running whilst the other five of us visited La Pauta, a stunning cliff virtually unknown outside of Catalunya. It’s a vertical cliff, around 30m high, whose limestone reminded me of climbing in Provence or even the Verdon. I was half-way up my route when I started hearing my mate Mat make a lot of noise on the neighbouring route, El Secreto está en Aneto, 7a. It was one of the most impressive leads I’ve seen in a while – he was throwing everything at this pitch, really giving it his all. I hung off a big jug, watching him working away at the meat of the climb, a 15m section of slightly overhanging, sustained wall climbing, until the pump beat him and he took a rest.

Despite seeing Mat do some of the route, when I started out on the difficult section of El Secreto it felt fairly onsight, working my way up an indistinct line of holds, awkward and technical. By the top I was getting pumped and starting to really fight to stay on, all thoughts of a fall were pushed out of my mind and the moves kept on flowing. It just felt so good. This is why we go sports climbing!

On our third day the valleys were drenched in a frigid fog, the fields hard and the bare trees covered with frost. We drove up and up, towards the Pyrenees, suddenly bursting out into bright sunshine near Col de Nargo, our destination for the day. Although the crag faces south and was getting all the sun going, the wind had swung around to the west and whipped along the crag, making it hard to stay warm. Still, it was more superb and fingery climbing.


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Col de Nargo.
Col de Nargo.
Credit: seankenny
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Climbing at Col de Nargo.
Climbing at Col de Nargo.
Credit: seankenny
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We were all feeling beat up on Monday. Daniel had bashed up his knee pretty badly trying a hard route at Col de Nargo and Tania had struggled with the cold. Along with Mark, they headed to Barcelona for lunch at a beachfront restaurant, whilst Mat, Ian and I went to Cubells for a last few hours cragging. High above a slightly Tolkienesque landscape of villages and castles, Cubells had some sharp rock and tough routes. We got in the car at 1.30pm and by 8.30pm I was home in London.

Two-and-a-half weeks is barely enough time to get started in Catalunya. Aside from Oliana and Santa Linya and all the other places you see in the magazines, there are so many other crags here “on the list”: the soaring conglomerate walls of Montsant, the shady summer-time cliffs at Camrassa, the gorge of Tres Ponts, the multi-pitch routes at Vilanova de Meia. Get to it!

  Trip Report Views: 4,125
seankenny
About the Author
seankenny is a climber from London, England.

Comments
this just in

climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
  Feb 22, 2015 - 10:53am PT
What a great Trip Report. Thanks for taking the time to write it. Spain looks beautiful.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
  Feb 22, 2015 - 11:09am PT
The god of pump, the fragility of the body and a landscape not far from heaven. TFPU!
scooter

climber
fist clamp
  Feb 22, 2015 - 11:11am PT
I like it when brits say "light jumper" it reminds me of a toddler wearing one of those corduroy suits that is composed of shorts and suspenders. Also what is the deal with brits on vacation dressing like toddlers on Easter? Stripped or pastel color polo shirts with the collar popped up and little pleated front khaki/white shorts. Great trip report though!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Feb 22, 2015 - 11:23am PT
Like!
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
  Feb 22, 2015 - 11:49am PT
Great trip report... brings back a few memories. I was there a few years ago and hit some of the spots in your report.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Feb 22, 2015 - 12:18pm PT
Awesomeness!

Me so jelly.
Daphne

Trad climber
Northern California
  Feb 22, 2015 - 12:20pm PT
My partner and I are planning a trip to France or Spain this year--- thanks for the inspiration and the information!
johnboy

Trad climber
Can't get here from there
  Feb 22, 2015 - 12:27pm PT
Appreciate the TR, and the stunning pics

A1
kaholatingtong

Trad climber
The fake McCoy from nevernever land.
  Feb 22, 2015 - 12:46pm PT
Awesome, cheers!
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
  Feb 22, 2015 - 01:01pm PT
Estupendo!
BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
  Feb 22, 2015 - 01:14pm PT
Man, sounds incredible.
seankenny

Trad climber
London, England
Author's Reply  Feb 22, 2015 - 01:44pm PT
Thanks guys, much appreciated!

Scooter - sorry to disappoint you, but I've never owned a polo shirt! But I know just the look you mean... :)

Daphne - feel free to get in touch if you need any contact details for accomodation or other info. Both France and Spain are great, brilliant climbing and beautiful countries.
skitch

Gym climber
Bend Or
  Feb 22, 2015 - 05:04pm PT
Spain is so amazing, not sure what's best; the climbing, food or the people.

I really want to go back to Sadernes, I HIGHLY RECOMMEND IT! Also check out Camarasa.
rlf

Trad climber
Josh, CA
  Feb 22, 2015 - 05:11pm PT
Great TR. I would love to go to spain some day!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Feb 22, 2015 - 06:35pm PT
Looks like a great trip, thank you!!!!
Cheers!
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Feb 23, 2015 - 08:16pm PT
Loved this. Thank you!

Curious: what kind of cash are you laying down for lodging each night?
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
  Feb 23, 2015 - 11:15pm PT
Great TR. You should try the longer routes at Vilanova de Meia and Terradets sometime. They're great fun, too. A few excellent routes for a start:

Vilanova: Tierra de Nadie and Musical Express and both 6b+ and about 6 pitches, both are great routes. Amatista is 3 pitches, a little easier.

Terradets: CADE is a long (20 or so pitches) easy route, great fun. Smoking is about 5 pitches and somewhat harder.

Funny, I'm eager to go to England for the gritstone.
seankenny

Trad climber
London, England
Author's Reply  Feb 24, 2015 - 03:17am PT
Le bruce, it varies. When we stayed in Ulldemolins it was 440 euros for a week, there were three of us but the place could easily have held four or five. In Vilanova de Meia, we paid around 280 euros for four nights - much cheaper, given there were six of us, but there was only one bedroom and we were sleeping on alpine hut style large bunks.

Mcreel, thanks for the suggestions, sounds good. Clearly I'll be back :)
Mike Friedrichs

Sport climber
City of Salt
  Feb 24, 2015 - 07:43am PT
Really nice TR. I love Spain. Spent a month at Rodellar. And I have to say that it looks to me like you're cranking pretty darned hard. They don't just give them away in Spain!
lars johansen

Trad climber
West Marin, CA
  Feb 24, 2015 - 08:09am PT
Beautiful stuff, tfpu!
lars
Abellaclimb

Sport climber
Abella de la conca
  Mar 1, 2015 - 02:36am PT
Great review...and yes there is rock on end here in catalunya. I ve been bolting lots of new routes recently generally about 20/30m 3,4,5,6,7's and harder in Abella de la conca where we have opened a refugio www.abellaclimb.com. You will have to come and climb in Abella, collegats ...and other unknown gems. Abella is 30min north of villanova de meia. I can also recommend Benabarre for grade 6b to 7a, steep juggy snd soft grades south facing...its in aragon but just on the border of catalunya 1h away west of Abella de la conca. If you want info on routes for Abella there are a selection of climbs in lleida climbs 2013 edition and online www.lleidaclimbs.com/ www.climbaway.com (about half as we now have 300routes), you can climb all year and get all updates at the refugio. We have 4 bedroom (30euro a night for two sharing) and a 8 people dorm with single beds (not bunkbeds or communal mattress) for 10euro a night. Its self carering with fully equipped kitchen though we can do half board for groups of 6 to 17 people, hoping to see you on your next visit
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
  Jul 22, 2016 - 02:04pm PT
Endless Summer bump.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
  Jul 22, 2016 - 02:30pm PT
Very nice looking stuff..... thanks for posting
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