Trip Report
Playing Hooky from Work: A Solo Ascent of Geochronology Wall (I, C2, cl.3)
Wednesday September 7, 2011 9:35pm
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On August 30, 2011, I had a carpe diem moment. I had just acquired my first set of aid hooks and was desperately wanting to push myself in a crash course on hooking. Hooking seemed like pretty scary stuff, so I needed to work myself in stat for some climbs I have hopes to do.
Now, for those that don't know me, some might say that I have no shame when coming up with new & effective ways to train.
Sometimes I can even talk others into joining me with my crazy ideas.
I also can't resist seizing chances to document unusual training regimens for an excuse to practice multimedia productions, such as obsessive Photoshop annotations or productions in Premier.
PG Presidio Offwidth
So an idea came to me one day at work to bike up into the north Berkeley hills during my lunch hour and practice hooking in a rather unusual way.
It was at this time that I started getting tired. I had foolishly neglected to bring my daisies, and now I was precariously balanced on the steep wall with gravity pulling me back toward the abyss.
Rested, I gradually warmed back up to the rigors of the route.
Fortunately the thin placement held. By now I was nearly halfway across the route, and the moves were getting routine as the exposure eased off.
I figured the rebellion of my mind was a result of me bonking. It was now well past 1pm and I had yet to actually eat lunch during my lunch hour! I needed to refuel, stat!
I appealed to the authorities, giving a heartfelt defense of my lofty goals in hopes that they would allow me to continue reaching for the sky. Fortunately my explanation of what I was doing worked, as the concerned grounds manager eventually relented, saying "eh. I guess this is Berkeley."
Nearing the end, the route began to get tight and awkward.
Special thanks to Ryan Pintar, who was willing to go along with all of this silliness and take pictures.
Links
Personal Website
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Trip Report Views: 49,217 |
PellucidWombat
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About the Author PellucidWombat is a mountain climber from Berkeley, CA. |
Comments
Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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I'm hooked.
And all this without 'enhancements', or use of duct tape?
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
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Author's Reply
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Sep 7, 2011 - 09:43pm PT
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I meant to bring Big League Chew to help keep the hooks in place, but I forgot.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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i'd like to see what the toes of those shoes look like now
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
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Author's Reply
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Sep 7, 2011 - 10:13pm PT
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They look about the same as the tips of my ice tools :-) Now to polish & sharpen!
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Rad shoe scuff outing!
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213
climber
Where the Froude number often >> 1
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classic! next goal is to hook your way up center overhang :)
bummer on the shoes tho, my louis vuittons would never forgive me!
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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One of the most thorough trip reports I've seen.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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Next time, take a geologist's hammer, so that if necessary you can pass yourself off as a devoted scientist, taking samples. Maybe blabber about doing geoisotope dating of the chips, as part of your research into the movement of tectonic plates and how that affects the San Andreas fault in that area.
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Daphne
Trad climber
Northern California
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Thanks for the laughs-- the necktie rest was hysterical, as were your facial expressions. Good luck and I'm looking forward to the next installment.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Would it be more badass if I drytool to the summit of a cable car?
You could connect a fifi hook to your tie next time. Nice report!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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You are killing me here and I'm loving it!
Way to persevere and inspire ...
Well done.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Well done, love the shoes!
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neversummer
climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
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pretty F'n funny dude.
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TwistedCrank
climber
Released into general population, Idaho
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You just watch. Some kid with a crash pad is gonna show up and free your line.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Nice footwear! I can't believe you didn't get tooled or at least taken
away for observation.
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
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Author's Reply
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Sep 8, 2011 - 01:50pm PT
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Vitialy: Would it be more badass if I drytool to the summit of a cable car?
V, I never told you how I trained for ice climbing in the weight gym when I was living in Brooklyn, did I? >:-)
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Adamame
climber
Santa Cruz
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Good thing you had eye protection, be carefull looking at the hooks. They can fly off and penetrate eyes.
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Nice tr, any traing is good training.
But, I think you slung your hooks backwards. The webbing should come out the front of the hook against the rock to pull the hook into the rock.
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
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Author's Reply
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Sep 8, 2011 - 03:16pm PT
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But, I think you slung your hooks backwards. The webbing should come out the front of the hook against the rock to pull the hook into the rock.
Yeah, I couldn't quite tell which was the best way to sling them. The way they are currently slung is pulling the hook out more, but pushing the tripod legs in better too, which maybe was making them more stable for traversing? I'll try traversing the wall again with them slung the other way for comparison.
Also, the loops were too long, so I've made them shorter.
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BrianH
Trad climber
santa fe
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Somewhere an Italian shoemaker weeps.
Man, you're lucky you don't have the access problems some people do with buidlering.
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Hawkeye
climber
State of Mine
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next up!?
Wings of Steel! but be sure and take your necktie.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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EPIC!
you do know that it goes free all the way?
eh, as long as you don't pin it out, s'all good. ;)
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
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Author's Reply
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Sep 8, 2011 - 04:25pm PT
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you do know that it goes free all the way?
It seems to go at 5.7-5.8, with no need for a crash pad. What's fun is to turn the corner into the parking lot, as the entire wall is twice as long as the section I hooked! I save that section for night, though. Also fun to do with a pack & boots on :-)
Wings of Steel! but be sure and take your necktie.
With the necktie I might have to call it "Neck of Steel". Haiyo!
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Love the shark, love the food delivery,
way to SHRED THE GNAR!!!!!
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
On the road.
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The shoes and necktie rest are da Bomb!
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
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Author's Reply
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Sep 9, 2011 - 01:57pm PT
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hey whats the difference between a pellucid wombat and a regular lucid wombat anyway?
A pellucid wombat is an extra lucid wombat :-D
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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V, I never told you how I trained for ice climbing in the weight gym when I was living in Brooklyn, did I? >:-)
Please DO tell.
Since you are coming back with re-tied hooks maybe I can join you and we could make it into a more enjoyable outing. Climbing big wall aid route in a push is no easy task. Maybe we should bring a portaledge and some beers. Vertical camping, drink a cobra.
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
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Author's Reply
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Sep 9, 2011 - 03:37pm PT
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Please DO tell.
It sounds completely rational if you follow my line of thinking, but seems absolutely insane if you walk into a gym and see someone doing this (especially if you don't know what ice climbing is!):
1. There are some barbell exercises I read about in some training books for ice climbing where you work on the wrist-flick motion with your forearms. One book recommended doing this standing, with the barbell above your head to get the full swinging effect with the shoulders & biceps.
However, this exercise only works the pure strength nature but does little for coordination. Plus barbells keep the weight pretty close to the handle, so this mostly works the shoulders & biceps.
2. I replaced the barbells with my ice tools, and duct-taped 1/2 liter water bottles filled with water on the picks to add extra weight to the heads. Arms cocked back overhead, I worked on initiating the swing on each arm, going for 60 reps or so on each side. Weighting the heads really helps as it is much harder to do the wrist flick, which really works the forearms in initiating one!
3. I did this in front of a mirror so that I could make sure that my tools were tracking properly even as I tired out, which made for a great stabilizing exercise. Once this got easier I also stood on my toes on a platform to make it even more realistic of working body tension and balance from the front points through the swing.
BTW, I made sure to explain my idea and get permission from the gym BEFORE I brought in my tools and started swinging. Surprisingly they let me do this!
Since you are coming back with re-tied hooks maybe I can join you and we could make it into a more enjoyable outing. Climbing big wall aid route in a push is no easy task. Maybe we should bring a portaledge and some beers. Vertical camping, drink a cobra.
I've seen people practicing their portaledge setups off the 2nd floor Terrace of Evans Hall on the Berkeley Campus, which looks much better for the outing. Apparently UCPD wasn't patrolling the area too tightly or just didn't care. :-D
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
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Author's Reply
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Sep 9, 2011 - 04:40pm PT
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Actually I was just talking with a friend and found out he was the one I saw setting up his porta-ledge on Evans Hall.
"We did have a campus grounds guy stop to talk to us, but
strangely he wasn't upset and left us alone. Another time we did
rappel practice on and near Evans with a large CHAOS group, and the
police did come but didn't stop us."
I guess they just don't know what to do with us crazies :-)
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diggler
Trad climber
Frisco, CA
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Sep 10, 2011 - 08:56pm PT
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One of the more curious characters in Berkeley for sure. A first ascen... er... traverse? Good to document things like that! Glad you made it back alive. Nice TR :)
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jonstark
Trad climber
Shelburne Falls, Massachusetts
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Sep 13, 2011 - 06:33pm PT
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Hooking is the reason I carry Anbesol in my wall kit.
Looks like you had some fun.
jon
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
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Author's Reply
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Sep 14, 2011 - 03:07am PT
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lol, good fun all around.
Don't forget the brave souls who meticulously recorded their harrowing ascent of Mt Sunflower (aka: Mountain of Doom):
Into Thick Air
Or the FAs of 'Men at Work' on the horror show that is known as Pothole dome <:-()
Pothole Dome Alpine Style
Make sure to reference their topo if you want to repeat their line, lest you get lost & disoriented with the 'aid' suggested for the route.
Speaking of which, does anyone have any idea how I amassed the extra 30k hits on this? Did some of you get drunk and repeatedly hit the 'refresh' icon on your browser all night long?
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
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Author's Reply
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Sep 14, 2011 - 03:02am PT
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My bent prescription glasses were enough - they were already bent/skewed from the rigors of trad and could take the hook :-) I only blew a hook off twice on a prior attempt at the wall, neither was a surprise, and neither one hit me, though they were explosive!
It's probably a safe protocol to keep your head low & aside when aid testing, but once you've committed to standing on the aider, you're probably safe unless you do something dumb :-) Stomping hard on the aider seems to work OK if you hold the hook in your hand to keep it from bouncing off the ledge, since holding it lightly with your hand seems to do nothing to keep it from popping off the ledge.
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nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
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Sep 14, 2011 - 03:48am PT
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The necktie! That could be hard to explain if you slipped....
I'll bet you go from zero to expert super-hero pretty quickly whenever you try something new.
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ulybaZZa
Trad climber
Bonn, Germany
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Sep 14, 2011 - 05:44am PT
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Awesome! I'm inspired by your rad ascent! Ordering my hooks soon, lol!
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
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Author's Reply
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Sep 14, 2011 - 02:13pm PT
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The necktie! That could be hard to explain if you slipped....
Fortunately I was in a static stance then. The worse that could have happened is the hook could have popped and landed me on my rump :-)
Now using a necktie as a daisy clipped to the next piece, that could result in some interesting accidents . . .
I'm also interested in the tie brand and how many KN of force that tie can handle.
Don't forget to ask about the dynamic properties, or if it is purely a static line.
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
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Author's Reply
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Sep 14, 2011 - 03:51pm PT
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Be careful wearing glasses and hooking, and or bounce testing anything while wearing glasses.
Not that I see them as safety glasses, but wouldn't wearing modern glasses be safer, rather than more dangerous, for protecting the eyes? I emphasize modern in that I'm not aware of newer lenses shattering easily.
I'm just wondering since for aid climbing I could do without wearing glasses, so if they are a hazard, I might as well put them away for that sort of climbing.
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YoungGun
climber
North
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Oct 18, 2011 - 04:11pm PT
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When will this see a second ascent?!?!?
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doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
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Oct 18, 2011 - 05:30pm PT
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Was the helmet to protect you form the possibility of catching an errant liquor bottle or bong water drop from Casa Z?
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Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
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Oct 18, 2011 - 08:13pm PT
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Where are the photos of the coppers using pepper spray and batons? And I was cringing looking at you using good looking shoes for the ascent. Maybe they kept you outta jail?
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moacman
Trad climber
Montuckyian Via Canada Eh!
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Oct 18, 2011 - 08:59pm PT
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Nice ascent and all without a cheater stick............Well done duuuude........
Stevo
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
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Author's Reply
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Nov 4, 2011 - 08:56pm PT
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Was the helmet to protect you form the possibility of catching an errant liquor bottle or bong water drop from Casa Z?
Pretty much. I forgot to mention that CZ is an objective hazard to the climb :-)
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
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Author's Reply
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Nov 4, 2011 - 09:55pm PT
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Where are the photos of the coppers using pepper spray and batons? And I was cringing looking at you using good looking shoes for the ascent. Maybe they kept you outta jail?
It's amazing how far you can go if you dress nice and look like you know what you're doing ;-)
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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So you reckon you're ready for a crack at Wings of Steel yet? Maybe a little practice at an obscure quarry in SoCal, then off to the big stone? The third ascent awaits!
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Sunnybeaches!
You're hot dude!
36,000 plus views of this Trip report!
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
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Author's Reply
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Nov 4, 2011 - 09:56pm PT
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36,000 plus views of this Trip report!
It's all one big conspiracy. I'm not sure what the payoff is, though . . .
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Super funny! I've read this a few times so there is a couple hits..
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
On the road.
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This is the funniest TR ever!
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
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Author's Reply
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Nov 11, 2011 - 05:03pm PT
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are you thinking of going back for an all Tri cam ascent... er, I mean traverse?!
I think too many of the joints are too shallow & flaring to do a full traverse on only tricams. Then again I wasn't looking for a continuous string of discrete tricam placements . . . challenge accepted! ;-)
(Maybe if I get in trouble I can limit myself to bat hooking the small holes in the volcanic rock to keep it interesting)
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S.Powers
Social climber
Jtree, now in Alaska
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Nov 11, 2011 - 05:31pm PT
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Classic!
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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Nov 13, 2011 - 07:36pm PT
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does walter alvarez work in that building? you should read his book about the crater of doom before you try the second "ascent".
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The Lisa
Trad climber
Da Bronx, NY
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Nov 15, 2011 - 10:17pm PT
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This gave me lots of laughs as I played hooky from work, Mark! The shark photo was priceless.
I think you should wear ties made of nylon webbing in future. Skinny ties are back in style now, I swear.
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cleo
Social climber
wherever you go, there you are
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Nov 15, 2011 - 10:40pm PT
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Lol! Well done, well done!
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Nevermind- this has the most 38000 views whaa!!!
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Johnny K.
climber
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Jul 16, 2013 - 07:30pm PT
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UpForSuperBetaPicMaxMark
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Sioux Juan
Social climber
Canyon Lake, ca.
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Sep 18, 2013 - 04:04pm PT
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I'm in on this one ...........fun stuff !
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Easy Wind
Trad climber
Oakland, California
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Sep 18, 2013 - 05:59pm PT
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Ha! Yes!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Feb 15, 2014 - 03:50pm PT
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Bump. Classic taco humor!
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Leggs
Sport climber
Made in California, living in The Old Pueblo
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May 16, 2014 - 05:35pm PT
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This is SO funny!!! Great stuff! hahahahhahaaha!!
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MisterE
Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
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Sep 12, 2014 - 12:38pm PT
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Bump, because 41,000+ views is too little a number.
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