Trip Report
Pinnacles westside TR
Tuesday December 8, 2009 6:56pm
'Tis the season for climbing at Pinnacles National Monument. Saturday I headed down to the westside with my buddies from Santa Cruz, Justin and Lisa.

Ever since I started climbing with Justin I could tell he was above average, and this was his day to start leading. Lisa has been recovering from cancer surgeries and a hip replacement, but used to lead at the Monument and knows it well.. she just wants to get more mileage in before setting out on the sharp end again.

Above the Salinas valley fog it was a crisp but clear morning, and we set out for a convenient practice area, the Northwest Streambed slabs just past the third bridge.

Justin headed up The Big Bad West (5.5) first -

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Justin leading The Big Bad West (5.5)
Justin leading The Big Bad West (5.5)
Credit: Lisa Ellis
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Justin leading The Big Bad West (5.5)
Justin leading The Big Bad West (5.5)
Credit: Lisa Ellis
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We all took laps on the toprope he set up and warmed up. Way to go dude !

My turn, Passion Play (5.7) -

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Me leading Passion Play (5.7)
Me leading Passion Play (5.7)
Credit: Lisa Ellis
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Me leading Passion Play (5.7)
Me leading Passion Play (5.7)
Credit: Lisa Ellis
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While we were taking laps on this one Brad Young stopped by and said hello. We had a nice chat, and then headed over to the Destiny Wall. I wanted to lead Dos Equis (5.8 R) before Brad & Eric started hammering on the new route they were finishing just above.

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Me leading Dos Equis (5.8 R)
Me leading Dos Equis (5.8 R)
Credit: Lisa Ellis
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Me leading Dos Equis (5.8 R)
Me leading Dos Equis (5.8 R)
Credit: Lisa Ellis
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It was good fun, and I didn't get Elvis Leg but once :) Is it lunchtime yet ?

Next Justin decided to lead Corona (5.6) just to the right as his second lead. He cruised it.

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Justin leading Corona (5.6)
Justin leading Corona (5.6)
Credit: Lisa Ellis
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Justin leading Corona (5.6)
Justin leading Corona (5.6)
Credit: Lisa Ellis
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Lisa followed him on this one, and it looked like the route was still in the early stages of being "cleaned", but was mostly pretty solid.

By now it was mid-afternoon and we decided to go do some short routes on Chockstone Dome. Lisa's feet were hurting so she just "supervised" :) I led Overboard (5.8), which seemed easier but steeper than Dos Equis. Justin led Walk the Plank (5.6) -- fun and airy. We found that using two 20' cordelettes to extend the anchor worked pretty well.

What a fun day .. our only regret was that Lisa forgot to ask Brad to autograph her guidebook. Some other time I guess. We hiked out, happily observing the scenery.

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Justin and Lisa hiking out
Justin and Lisa hiking out
Credit: rhyang
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Machete Ridge on the hike out
Machete Ridge on the hike out
Credit: rhyang
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  Trip Report Views: 3,952
rhyang
About the Author

Comments
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
  Dec 8, 2009 - 09:42pm PT
way to Go!!!

Got a bunch of classic routes in, good weather and you made it out alive!!

West side is the shizzle

Mucci


Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Dec 9, 2009 - 01:56am PT
Sweet TR! Finals are next week, then some quality time at the Pinns. Then JTREE for a week!
Zander

climber
  Dec 9, 2009 - 10:58am PT
Looks like fun!
msiddens

Trad climber
  Dec 9, 2009 - 12:45pm PT
Nice job...magical place aint it!
Gene

climber
  Dec 9, 2009 - 03:49pm PT
Lisa has been recovering from cancer surgeries and a hip replacement

Mega-props to Lisa getting on the rock with a new hip and a battle with cancer. How cool is that? Amazing. Gotta love Rhyang and his team of miracles.

gm
rhyang

climber
SJC
Author's Reply  Dec 9, 2009 - 09:32pm PT
Thanks all !
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Dec 10, 2009 - 01:13am PT
ReRob, how were the bolts on Passion Play? Still funky?
rhyang

climber
SJC
Author's Reply  Dec 10, 2009 - 10:48am PT
I'm not the best judge of these things but yep, both bolts looked a little odd. Hangers were a bit loose (oh well), and the bolts themselves stuck out of the rock somewhat more than I'm used to.

As I lowered off and cleaned the route I joked to Lisa about having trusted those things =:-O But honestly I haven't climbed at Pinnacles enough to know if these are common .. I've seen other bolts with what looks like glue around them ..
MooseTracks

Mountain climber
Bishop, CA
  Dec 10, 2009 - 05:31pm PT
Nice work, Robbie, Justin, and Lisa! Looks like a great day. Hope i can come home to visit at some point and try some there, too!
lisae

climber
Santa, Cruz, CA
  Dec 11, 2009 - 09:45am PT
Heya, Rob. Nice trip report. I had a great time!
lisae

climber
Santa, Cruz, CA
  Dec 11, 2009 - 02:49pm PT
Just for fun -a few more pictures:




rhyang

climber
SJC
Author's Reply  Dec 11, 2009 - 05:15pm PT
Lisa, thanks again for showing us around !

Laura, we are definitely going to have to sample the local climbing next time you get back to the bay area .. hopefully it won't just be Planet Granite (raining steadily today :)
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
  Dec 17, 2009 - 11:02pm PT
Good job, Rob, nice TR.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
  Dec 21, 2009 - 12:09am PT
Rhyang-

In regards to Passion play's bolts-

Replaced the 1st bolts hanger (3/8 x 2" split-shaft looked pretty good)

Removed and replaced 2nd bolt (SS 3/8 x 3.50" 5 Powers 5 piece)

Thanks for the word...OH and Buump for the PInnacles!

Mucci
rhyang

climber
SJC
Author's Reply  Dec 21, 2009 - 11:40am PT
Cool, thanks !!
rhyang

climber
SJC
Author's Reply  Dec 28, 2009 - 11:16am PT
My friend Laura came back to the bay area for the holidays, and we managed to get out on Saturday before the rain started.

We headed over to Big Bad West and after some quick discussion of anchors / clipping she led it like a champ -


The bolts on Passion Play looked way more solid - thanks Mucci!


Next we went over to the Destiny Wall, where Laura got on Corona and again made short work of it.


I hadn't actually climbed this one, so we pulled the rope and I had a go -


Seems to be cleaning up nicely. Finally we went up to Chockstone Dome.


Laura led Walk The Plank with style.



I wanted to lead Overboard, but it started sprinkling, so we packed up and headed out. There were a couple of guys on the Balconies who seemed to be having fun on an aid climb though.

Weather was intermittently funky ..


We decided to go check out the area wine tasting !


I felt proud of Laura having completed her first three leads -- way to go !! As we headed back north the skies opened up and poured.
BiletChick

Sport climber
Bishop, CA
  Dec 30, 2009 - 12:50pm PT
Way to go Laura and Rob!

The Moose and Llama tag team stike again!
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