Trip Report
Photo TR: My First Sonora Pass Drive-Through
Friday September 18, 2009 2:05am
I would never have given the drive a chance, because mostly I'm a Highway 120 guy. I found a silver lining in the smokey clouds of the Yosemite fires.

I got inspired when I caught glimpses of this around bends in the road:
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I pulled out at the first good spot to check it out, and what do I find right next to the parking spaces?
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I immediately started lay-backing that thing in my flip-flops, got about 15 feet up and chickened out with sweaty feet. Down- climbed but vowed to return. Here's the spot:

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Closer to the actual pass lies a wonderland of rock that looks like the lord put J-Tree, Tuolumne Meadows, and Dakota Badlands in a blender:

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And the sunset was exquisite:

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And I saw a bad moon rising. It was a full moon, obscured by a drift of clouds:
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Pay attention to the road in them parts:
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And then near Mono Lake, I decided to take advantage of the full moon light and take some longer exposures. This one I lightened up a bit, but no other retouching:
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And this one absolutely no retouching:
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As I neared the turn-off to crawl up Yosemite's backside, I couldn't resist the urge to visit the Mono Lake tufas by moonlight. My first experience in Joshua Tree ages ago was by full moon, and I went nuts scampering across the crazy landscape that looked like a college black-light party. This time I was looking for a more mellow contemplative communion with nature.

But I was also feeling playful, so experimented with flashlight painting:

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It made me more tired than I wanted to be for the 3:30am start on Conness the next morning, and it made the drive back the following night almost unbearable. But I'm glad for the memories, for opening my horizons, and feeling like I'm getting my money's worth out of this spin around the planet.

  Trip Report Views: 2,101
nutjob
About the Author
nutjob is a climber from Berkeley, CA.

Comments
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Sep 18, 2009 - 02:08am PT
The Donell vista crags are just the gateway drugs...
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
  Sep 18, 2009 - 02:16am PT

Clandestine was the first word that came to mind!











Cool Pix
Captain...or Skully

climber
Boise, ID
  Sep 18, 2009 - 08:04am PT
Oh, you'll return. Oh, yes.
Right on.
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
  Sep 18, 2009 - 11:13am PT
Was that a sasquatch or an elephant in that headlight shot. It's hard to tell. Both are fairly common.

Also- any of you Sonora pass climbers need a partner on a Sunday, drop me a line. I'd love to check some of these things out.
Tamara Robbins

climber
not a climber, just related...
  Sep 18, 2009 - 12:23pm PT
Love the photos! That is one of my all time favorite drives. Try Ebbets Pass also - it's a gem. As for Donnells, that's where Dad (Royal) takes friends (and boyscouts) who are learning the "ropes"! Very familiar with it. Thanks for the post!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Sep 22, 2009 - 10:32pm PT
nothing but loose volcanic choss...




splitclimber

climber
Sonoma County
  Sep 22, 2009 - 10:35pm PT
OMG - he posted a pic of it. The Sonora beast is going to get you.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Sep 22, 2009 - 10:44pm PT
I don't buy that sh#t, but if you do, then the beast has to be one of those objective hazards much like avalanches and rock fall.

wear a helmut and climb in teams of two or more. don't camp alone.
davidji

Social climber
CA
  Sep 22, 2009 - 10:47pm PT
the sonora beast? Looked a lil like an elephant.

What is the crag in the "Closer to the actual pass" photo? Munge, that's the one I had tried to ask you about in email. Been tempted to just go to it and climb. If I can handle that approach...
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Sep 22, 2009 - 11:05pm PT
disregard, I see it now...

That's First Buttress

mucho wido on that

The big chockstone chimney looks to be the most amazing line on it. Dale Kaiser route from the 70s as mrtropy relates it.

as for the other wideness, not much reported, but there are some old bolts here and there. total adventure climbing.
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
  Sep 22, 2009 - 11:30pm PT
Munge- I was hoping you'd show up to meet Batrock the other weekend. Put some faces to the years of names.

That is the best shot of the monster I have seen.

In the immortal words of Mitch Hedberg "I think bigfoot is blurry, and that scares me more. Somewhere out there is a large out of focus creature"
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Sep 22, 2009 - 11:37pm PT
werd, if I wasn't hacking up a lung between typing blatant lies and defamatory remarks, I'd offer up a tour. I'm waiting to see how this sickness pans out to see if I'll make it up there.

To be honest, I'm sure there will be some heads up on the Pass this weekend fooling around on stuff if you come up. Since it'll be toasty I'm betting early starts with beer by noon, bouldering in the cave by 2, and brewing coffee by 5pm for a rally in the evening.



tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
  Sep 22, 2009 - 11:51pm PT
I got sick for all of august, a total bummer and I still feel weird really.

Do folks camp at Chipmunk Flat?

My parents live near Fales hot springs on the Eastside, so I'm up around the pass a lot.


edit- saying things like bouldering in the cave by too sounds very tempting.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Sep 23, 2009 - 12:05am PT
gawd, I hope noone makes me go there anymore.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Sep 23, 2009 - 12:13am PT
Tom, I'll be damned, yeah, easy peasy to head up the hill if passing thru.

jaybro, sorry, you're committed for the rest of the season.
mark miller

Social climber
Reno
  Sep 23, 2009 - 12:55am PT
Dude I climbed that thing with the obvious corner on the South side of the Highway 26 years ago.10a maybe most pitches are .7 or .8 up to the corner( some a little RO), but hey you're in the mountains, enjoy. There is some great potential around there.
rhyang

climber
SJC
  Sep 23, 2009 - 01:04am PT
Nice pics !

I remember driving up over Sonora pass in the summer of '98 .. years before I started climbing, about nine months after I moved to CA. I stopped at that Donnell vista place and gazed out .. it was fantastic.

The preceding winter had been an El Nino, as you recall. Lots of snow still around at the higher elevations.

I spent time backpacking in the Emigrant and Carson-Iceberg Wilderness for some years, and snowshoe'd around Pinecrest in the winter. I only just started visiting the climbing spots on 108 about a year ago (Herring Creek Dome).
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Sep 23, 2009 - 01:05am PT
mark, 'hwy 26' huh? I musta missed sumthin
mark miller

Social climber
Reno
  Sep 23, 2009 - 01:14am PT
Highway 26 is 2.6 decades ago, there is alot to "ferret" out around there but Those Ca climbers consider so much of what they see, "Munge" they don't even Check it out.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Sep 23, 2009 - 03:03am PT
tru that

even if they get on it, they don't see it, which is why SPH will never be Yos Valley... for which I'm glad.

Banquo

climber
Amerricka
  Sep 23, 2009 - 09:42am PT
http://www.sonorapassclimbing.com/

Scary rock seen from 1 mile east of the pass:


Jerry Dodrill

climber
@dodrillphoto
  Sep 23, 2009 - 10:58am PT
That place scares the bejeezus out of me. The rock is crap and there are too many weirdos with odd names; Miwok, Dingus, Munge, Scuffy... sounds like a frikkin' biker gang. And then, there are the "sightings." No thanks. I'd rather stay in Yosemite National Park where the rock is bullet hard and there are nice rangers to keep the law and order.
Josh Nash

Social climber
riverbank ca
  Sep 23, 2009 - 12:28pm PT
don't go back, I know from experience! I am a way n00b climber and everything in the guide book is a.)way sandbagged b.) really hard to find and spread out( un marked dirt roads that lead to......?)c.)tons of munge and choss and finally d.) jerimiah johnson wannabees with assault rifles.

now really the 108 is a awsome drive. The climbing is nice because you usually can find an uncrowded place to climb. Being a n00b it's nice to work everything out and take time without the audience or the impatient party tailgating.
cleo

Social climber
wherever you go, there you are
  Sep 23, 2009 - 01:26pm PT
sweet, I know, I want to spend more time up there!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Sep 25, 2009 - 12:34am PT
"tons of munge"

I resemble that remark.
mark miller

Social climber
Reno
  Sep 25, 2009 - 12:45am PT
You guys lead and are afraid of Flat landers with green and black makeup stumbling through your camps...Go back to the gym, It's the guys you can't hear that you need to worry about and for the most part let's give the crowds the valley with the well designated Topos and maybe WB can Spray Paint Orange Fluorescent arrows on the base's of the important climbs, Like Nut cracker, Serenity, etc.. in case the CA's who forgot their History get off route.
There is some Great potential up there and I still can't beleive that I got such a gem of a first ascent (Multi pitch) on the South side 25+ years ago. "Go out and grovel through the bushes to get to your climb and knock off the loose pieces into the void, for it is only here that you shall really taste life." Quote from Mark "Henry David Thoreau" Miller.
Jerry Dodrill

climber
@dodrillphoto
  Sep 25, 2009 - 01:06am PT
Which be this here long'in you speak of?
mark miller

Social climber
Reno
  Sep 25, 2009 - 01:14am PT
Jerry I don't know the name of the cliff but it's the largest cleanest peice of multi pitch Granite on the South side around Chipmunk flats. The obvious Left facing dihedral halfway up the face, 3 wandering .7 to .8 approach pitches, then the corner hard .9 maybe .10a ( one fall was taken), of course in those days the leader backed off and gave it to me and with 80% fixed gear I fired it, A couple moderate .7ish pitches to the top and a Glissade back to the car ...What could be finer? "then a virgin 69'er in the morning." Sorry for the crude articulation there but I thought it rhymed.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Sep 25, 2009 - 01:17am PT
actually at the crags by the USMCMWTC the route names are painted on. not quite orange.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Sep 25, 2009 - 01:18am PT
did you do that with Greg? is that one yours?

up and right of chockstone chimney or left on the lower main face?
mark miller

Social climber
Reno
  Sep 25, 2009 - 01:20am PT
The crags they climb on are great, I think the original fixed gear is from an ol railway if you fell on one of those bolts you'd tear your femoral artery out of your leg. But I do appreciate the capacious quantity of pins the Jarheads have donated to my rack in years past.
Jerry Dodrill

climber
@dodrillphoto
  Sep 25, 2009 - 01:41am PT
I'll be up this weekend and will take a look.
mark miller

Social climber
Reno
  Sep 25, 2009 - 02:02am PT
Jerry take some pics and I'll draw the line. There aren't too many crags of multi pitch on the South side of the road at the summit area. There used to be a camp ground just to the west of the crag but it's over grown now.The small stream should be easy to cross this time of year. You can take good photos of the crag actually from the N side of the road if you scramble up this 20' 3rd class across the road from it. Does anyone know Sonora well enough to figure out where this is?
Jerry Dodrill

climber
@dodrillphoto
  Sep 25, 2009 - 02:03am PT
Pretty sure I know, and have a pic.

This look like it?
Deadmans Buttress
mark miller

Social climber
Reno
  Sep 25, 2009 - 02:07am PT
Please post with the cliff names Jerry. On Juergen's and my descent, a bearded gnome like creature in painters pant's came up to us and was all excited that we climbed that feature. He said he'd put it in the next area guidebook and I've yet to see it. We did the route in the early 80's.
Jerry Dodrill

climber
@dodrillphoto
  Sep 25, 2009 - 02:10am PT
Is that it?
mark miller

Social climber
Reno
  Sep 25, 2009 - 02:11am PT
I 'm knott sure I need a slighlty more western exposure, The first 3 pitches are more like climbing the North buttress of Lone pine peak, then you step around to the West into the obvious dihedral. If it was we climbed the center but I don't remember looking at the good stuff to my west?
My initial thoughts of that photo are of a 3 fingered buttress and the climb I did was pretty much the main uninterrupted line on the crag.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Sep 25, 2009 - 02:21am PT
here's a straight on shot from below...




bearded gnome? Grant doesn't look like a gnome. hahaha
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Sep 25, 2009 - 02:24am PT
actually the 5.9 in the book comes from AAJ "Deadman Buttress (CA) 1988: 134"

the 5.9 in the most recent book is left of Stu's 11a route...

but it's called the 'arete route' maybe Brad can shed more light on it.

mark miller

Social climber
Reno
  Sep 25, 2009 - 09:55am PT
Yep that's it Munge, Center of the middle tower, the dihedral is a little toward the left. What's it called? Juergen and I did it a few years before 88'.
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