Trip Report
Pen y Holt Sea Stack - Ever rapped off a buoy?

by Bald Eagle
Monday December 10, 2018 2:38am
top left corner top right corner
Pen y Holt Sea Stack in Range West, Pembroke
Pen y Holt Sea Stack in Range West, Pembroke
Credit: Bald Eagle
bottom left corner bottom right corner

Warm greetings SuperTopoists from a cold but sunny day in the UK!

Ever rapped off a buoy? Yep that's right one of those flotation devices normally found anchored in the sea?

Here's a wee vid of a clamber up the striking and photogenic Pen y Holt sea stack in Range West, Pembroke in Wales. Appearing to lean in all directions and situated on a friendly platform, Pen y Holt stack was first climbed in 1980 and offers ascents for most abilities. Along with the "adventurous" approach and excellent summit views, the stack makes a well worthwhile excursion for competent teams!

Range West is home to acres of superb climbing for all grades, for which the lower grades are particularly well represented. However Range West is on MOD land (hence no drone footage) and if you wish to climb here, you must attend a briefing at Castlemartin Army Camp for which the 2019 briefing dates should be released via the BMC very soon.

Featuring the beautiful walk in (bikes highly recommended), fun but "adventurous" approach (low spring tides essential), bobbing seals, some eye-popping exposure and after the end credits that rather interesting abseil...

[Click to View YouTube Video]

All constructive feedback welcome, please feel free to share and hopefully it will brighten up your lunch or tea break with a brew and biscuit!

Merry Xmas and happy climbing! :-)

Dave






  Trip Report Views: 1,704
Bald Eagle 		About the Author
Bald Eagle is a trad climber from the UK who likes to boldly go where quite a few people have been before... :-)

Comments
skywalker1

Trad climber
co
  Dec 10, 2018 - 03:43am PT
Y'all are crazy climbing these things. You asked for inputs. for me I would ask the timing of the tides (low tide only?) and the approach (How many ropes?).

Video I can't comment much on. Drones are nice but maybe more personal stuff at belays. Kida gives you more of what's going on in terms of sprit? I guess logistics. I think video on that is much more interesting.

I think that there is a heavy use of drones, But only needs to be 10%. Video of crossings and getting established is better (rigging). I'm sure it is interesting.

S....
Bald Eagle

Trad climber
Author's Reply  Dec 10, 2018 - 06:34am PT
Y'all are crazy climbing these things. You asked for inputs. for me I would ask the timing of the tides (low tide only?) and the approach (How many ropes?).

Video I can't comment much on. Drones are nice but maybe more personal stuff at belays. Kida gives you more of what's going on in terms of sprit? I guess logistics. I think video on that is much more interesting.

I think that there is a heavy use of drones, But only needs to be 10%. Video of crossings and getting established is better (rigging). I'm sure it is interesting.

Hey skywalker many thanks for taking the time to post your constructive feedback!

Regarding tides to climb the stack we required low spring tides to give us time for the time consuming and tricksome approach. This required rapping down the Main Cliffs on a static rope followed by a slippery seaweed covered boulder hop before scrambling to the base of the stack itself. As 4 of us wanted to climb we used 3 half or double ropes with the leader belayed on 2 ropes and a 3rd rope attached to one of the seconds for the 4th person to climb on!

The buoy we rapped off had apparently been in-situ for over 20 years but we took another buoy (essential sea cliff climbing kit!) up and firmly wedged it next to the original buoy as a back up. As we were on MOD land I guess you could say these buoys were bombproof as all anchors on Range West firing range need to be bombproof... ;-)

As a side note this was my first time in 25 years of climbing using a buoy to rap off. Has anyone else used an incongruous/not normally used device or implement for the purpose of abbing off? If so lets hear all about it! :-)
Cheers
Dave



Bald Eagle

Trad climber
Author's Reply  Dec 10, 2018 - 09:46am PT
Thanks once again Bald Eagle. What a beautiful adventure! Love the rap at the end, chock buoy (rap off! Why'd ya leave the slings upon the summit?? - YOU WANTED TO!)

Hey Dingus thanks a million for your kind words! Chocks away and buoys ahoy! :-)
Cheers and Merry Xmas!
Dave
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
  Dec 10, 2018 - 09:57am PT

A climbing adventure in beautiful surroundings to a relaxing tune. ST food for the soul! Merry Xmas!
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
  Dec 10, 2018 - 10:14am PT
Blimey but you’ve a most understanding matron to allow you out so often unsupervised!
At least you’ve gorgeous proof that you did not stray from your brief:
“You are herewith commanded to go forth and act barmy”
🤣
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
  Dec 10, 2018 - 01:56pm PT

merry merry
glad to see you
mongrel

Trad climber
Truckee, CA
  Dec 10, 2018 - 09:58pm PT
I am thoroughly disappointed not to have seen closeup footage of petrels vomiting foetid green partially digested fish goo in your faces. Other than that glaring absence, and the rock quality looking much too good, looks like a fun outing!
Bald Eagle

Trad climber
Author's Reply  Dec 11, 2018 - 01:05am PT
A climbing adventure in beautiful surroundings to a relaxing tune. ST food for the soul! Merry Xmas!

Many thanks for the positive words Marlow and a rocking Merry Xmas to you too! :-)
Cheers
Dave
Bald Eagle

Trad climber
Author's Reply  Dec 11, 2018 - 01:08am PT
Blimey but you’ve a most understanding matron to allow you out so often unsupervised!
At least you’ve gorgeous proof that you did not stray from your brief:
“You are herewith commanded to go forth and act barmy”

Heya Reilly thanks a million for the kind words as ever! My understanding (and long suffering!) matron and I got married in August so she let me have some time off for good behaviour... ;-)
Merry Xmas dude!
Dave
Bald Eagle

Trad climber
Author's Reply  Dec 11, 2018 - 01:09am PT
merry merry
glad to see you

...and a maa-hoosive merry merry to you too Mr Gnome! :-)
Cheers
Dave
Bald Eagle

Trad climber
Author's Reply  Dec 11, 2018 - 01:14am PT
I am thoroughly disappointed not to have seen closeup footage of petrels vomiting foetid green partially digested fish goo in your faces. Other than that glaring absence, and the rock quality looking much too good, looks like a fun outing!

Aaaw mongrel sorry to disappoint with the lack of bird vomit, I'll try and do better next time! And indeed it was a choss-tastic fun day out! :-)
Merry Xmas
Dave
Go
Recent Trip Reports