Last year someone asked me about a moderate, multi-pitch route on Lower Cathedral Rock, so I did some research:
Overhang Bypass 5.7, 6 pitches, 3 stars, FA: Bill Dunmire, Ed Robbins, Bill Long, & Dick Long - June, 1952
From the 1964 Roper guide: ‘one of the most popular routes on the south side of the Valley’
Karl Baba: ‘the approach sucks, the descent is long, and the actual climbing isn't too good either - still, it gets points for being a trad adventure, having a real summit, and old school bonus points to boot.’
John Eleazarian: ‘scenic, enjoyable, and mostly easy’
Werner: ‘a junk yard’ and ‘a pile’
Brokedownclimber: ‘the godawful gunsight’ descent
MP beta: ‘a flake broke off, and the crux is closer to 5.9 now’ and ‘Route finding can be an issue’
1952 FA? Old School? Long approach/descent? Route finding crux? a missing flake and 5.9 move? Hmmm – I’ve got to check this thing out - but I’ve got to find just the right partner…
Who else but my old school buddy Todd from Reno – King of route finding (and also runout slab).
Approx location of route as seen from the road:
Le Bruce beta:
Too much gear!
This way to the start
Let the gully scramble begin
More scrambling
Bridalveil views
More scrambling but getting close
Bridalveil rainbow mist
More scrambling - when you start seeing rap stations you are getting close..
Finally! the start of the route, or P2 in Reid guide. It's a very striking feature.
Todd on the way to the hog trough
Old school hardware
Overhang feature - wowza!
Looking up at the hog trough
Looking back at the trough - exposure!
I love climbing in approach shoes..
The missing flake. Yes - it's probably 5.9, but you have a small wire at your chest, and a piton about 5 feet to the right. I did a lie back, then got a C3 up higher to sew it up. I think you could also go up the flake on the right, but the pro did not look as good.
Moving the belay across the ledge
The face pitch was fun and wandered a bit. Full Yosemite 5.7 value.
The views of El Cap remind you why you come to the Valley - even on Memorial Day weekend.
We finished on the exposed 5.6 traverse variation. Looking back at this gem:
Topping out
I've never seen Leaning Tower from this angle
On to the gunsight - Ha! What a gem this little gully is
MCR
Enter the gunsight
Yosemite 4th class. '
Munge rap station - love it!
Views from the gunsight
8 hours car to car at a leisurely pace, and back in time to watch the sunset.
I really enjoyed the route, and would recommend it for anyone looking for a moderate, adventure route.
More info:
MP:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/overhang-bypass/106669076
ST:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/542987/Overhang-Bypass-TR-fall-2006
ST:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2126938/Overhang-Route-4-27-2013-TR
ST:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/579217/Not-the-Midget-Chimney-Photo-TR
Accident report
http://www.howardreplogle.com/essays/climbingacident/caccident.htm