This is an uber classic climb where in 1937 Fritz Weissner stood on Percy Olton's shoulders to begin the climb. Percy was a good friend of Weissner's from back east, apparently.
This is not a regular Mt Rushmore type climb that it is not a 2 minute walk to the base, nor are there any anchors. It is as wild as the day Weissner and Olton climbed it. Even though it is only 20 minutes from the highway - No one climbs it, apparently.
From the west entrance sign at Mt Rushmore hike west up to the "sign in" station. Sign in AFTER your climb. Follow any trail, boot tracks or game trails west to the top of the hill. Go south 600 yards. Watch for the crag through the trees. Hike up into the N/S giant cleft that splits it. Scramble up in the cleft to the middle and belay below a huge chockstone. Climb the nice hand/fist/ow/squeeze/chimney to easier climbing above and belay. Scramble to the top or stay roped up - that would be best. Two 80' rappels are best. There are no anchors. There is a nice natural hole to sling from the top, but take a 20' runner. There are some nice chockstones 1/2 way for a 2nd rappel.
The guidebooks are not clear on the rappels. One just says "200 feet".
Anyway it was a fun time and somewhat strenuous today since gravity was 3 times normal and know knot tied or untied as it should.
We did this climb today since we have never done it and I believe my fears will come true. I spoke with a ranger today and he said they haven't made a decision on closing Mt Rushmore to climbing, he did say that "you (locals) are going to get screwed" - this is stemming from the greenpeace stunt last week. The media has it all hyped up that CLIMBERS are a problem.
Oh and after 3 weeks, mrs. museum's cracked ribs are healing nicely.
Captions on top people.
Approach
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Crack 5.7 65' pitch
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Below the chockstone
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9, 10, 11 hex and three big cams, 3,4, and 5 (I have an old 4.5)
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From the westside tourist turnout. We climbed from the opposite side.
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the end.
