Trip Report
Old Walls, Excalibur, Deuce Inspired
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Friday January 30, 2009 2:53pm
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Deuce has inspired me to not care so much about what order everything is in and whether it's all captioned or not.
Just get 'em up there!
Here's the first installment. I'll have to finish later.
Thanks for looking.
Bruce
survival
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About the Author
survival is a big wall climber from A Token of My Extreme. |
Comments
deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Jan 30, 2009 - 02:54pm PT
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Cool!
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Elcap76
Trad climber
Long Beach, CA
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Jan 30, 2009 - 03:29pm PT
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Very nice photos!
Thanks for sharing.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Jan 30, 2009 - 03:29pm PT
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Next installment.
You can see another party in these pix once in awhile.
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BooYah
Social climber
Ely, Nv
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Jan 30, 2009 - 03:34pm PT
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This is pretty cool.
Thanks for all the picss.
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Peewee
Trad climber
Quebec
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Jan 30, 2009 - 03:34pm PT
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Fire one Tommy Caldwell to Free climb this route...
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Jan 30, 2009 - 03:39pm PT
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Cool pics. Really can see why it was rarely climbed before the advent of the mongo cams. Like the old garb.
Say, I was glad to see the pic of the Spider's Web. I never had the inclination to take out the camera at this point, but always look up at the thing. It would make a cool climb out the center of it.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Jan 30, 2009 - 04:01pm PT
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Yeah John,
I have always loved the spiders web too.
Free climbing..you bet.
Tommy C. , Steve Schneider whoever.
I thought it was burly enough just to free up to 5.10 something!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Jan 30, 2009 - 04:05pm PT
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A few more and a few later!
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jan 30, 2009 - 10:30pm PT
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Ah yes, the ghetto blaster in the Round Table - I love that picture of yours. I brought my ghetto blaster too, and of course my coffee press.
How did yous guys outwit the offwidths? You can see how we did it in the portaledge photo above....
Nice photos, mate! Thanks for posting.
I still think Frosty's Claustrophobic Bivi is one of the most amazing places ever on El Cap - I love it! Then again, I'm a caver.....
You can click here to read [url="http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos/Big_Wall/Two_Ugly_Dudes_on_Day_11_-_Photo_1_of_5_5645.html"]a little photo essay on Frosty's Claustrophobic Bivi on Excalibur.[/url]
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Double D
climber
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Jan 30, 2009 - 10:40pm PT
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Way cool!
But what's up with the speedo's?
(-;
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Thorgon
Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
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Jan 30, 2009 - 10:55pm PT
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x-o-lente!!! Great photos, just goes to show,
who cares about the small details! Just get them
posted! Looks like you had a blast, although I pefer
boxers! Freedom in the hills!!!!
Ciao,
Thor
P.S. That is a big cam, Pass the Pitons!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 30, 2009 - 10:56pm PT
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really, families surf here!
nice, well not, 'stuff', but cool pictures!
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Jan 30, 2009 - 11:17pm PT
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Thanks for posting the great pics. The quality of the photos is so good, my connection keeps crashing trying to keep up with them.
Excalibur is a great, unheralded line on El Cap. Except for the loose choss in the Slack chimney at the start of the route, the rock is stellar, and the isolation from other routes keeps it from seeming like just another freeway in a crowded lithopolis.
Another bonus is seeing each photo and reliving that portion of the route, sorta like a web-based time machine.
EDIT:
Here are my captions for Survival's TR up Excalibur. Basically, I've tried to be accurate in pinpointing the location of each photo, based on memory.
And, what a great trip back into the past I've just had.
Jugging from the base
Jugging the haul ropes, left of the Slack
Fixed ropes over the Slack roof
Belaying the traverse pitch from the top of the Slack
Rivet ladder, about P5-P6
Union Climbers hauling the Fake Blast fixed ropes to Heart Ledge
P6, a Charlie Porter kb/rurp masterpiece
not sure; the pitch above Guenivere's Bed bivy ledge?
unknown, but high on the route; say, within three pitches of the Round Table bivy.
P4, moving left out from under the Slack roof.
P4, moving left, out from under the Slack roof.
The P4-P5 rivet ladder?
Start of P7, with the Holy Grail within sight/reach
About halfway up, possibly Lancelot's Slot.
amnesia
Glass Slab, P25, only one more to the summit.
P9, a clean, no smears, overhanging 5.12 OW that is also challenging at C1
amnesia
Excalibur tops out at the Salathe Tree, but comes in on an orthogonal line
Horsetail Falls bathing facility (same as Camp 4: no hot water)
unknown/amnesia
Higher up on P24, waking up, out of Frosty's Bivy
unknown/amnesia
East Ledges Descent, just after the scary slab traverse at the Wild Dikes
unknown, some tree with a rope tied to it
unknown
Rope leading to the Round Table bivy (oooh, what a nice spot that was!)
Looking down from the Round Table
unknown
P26, the pitch to the summit
On the summit, west of the Salathe Tree
Jugging to Frosty's Bivy
P10, entering the maw of the monster
P7, the monster has not yet reared its beautiful, wide self
unknown
Slack chimney?
P24, coming out of Frosty's Bivy
P24, some really, really, good rock here, by the way
summit
Guenivere's Bed ledge
Apology Edit: I don't think anybody but me is going to look at the captions, and then compare them to the photos. There is some sort of web-tech that can do this, but, I'm not the guy to do it.
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Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
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Jan 30, 2009 - 11:28pm PT
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Schaaaaweeet!
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 30, 2009 - 11:35pm PT
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Good job survival, Excalibur is a beaut.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Jan 30, 2009 - 11:39pm PT
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Thanks Werner.
PTPP, we only had three "big" pieces. You can see me "jugging" one of the wide pitches, and basically taking a 3 piece anchor up the whole pitch with no pro!
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Captain...or Skully
climber
Boise, ID
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Jan 31, 2009 - 12:01am PT
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Hey, Thor, Tom makes those mighty cams.....
He can be your CamSmith.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Jan 31, 2009 - 12:02am PT
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One more bunch for the party.
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SammyLee2
Trad climber
Memphis, TN
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Jan 31, 2009 - 12:21am PT
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Super nice! I love the randomness of it all. You never know what's below. Kinda like life, I guess. ;)
Time and age are running out on me. Maybe I can get a wall in before it's too late.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
Boise, ID
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Jan 31, 2009 - 12:39am PT
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Never too late, SnakeBoy.....Ask Frost.
Is true. Walls are forever.
I was gonna Frosty Bump, too.
Frosty's!!
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Jan 31, 2009 - 12:45am PT
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I'll add these location captions (at my age, guesses):
P?, moving left from the top of the Slack
unknown
Slack Chimney, from the top of the Sacherer Cracker
Slack Chimney; the tree is about where the Heart Route goes right
unknown
unknown
The view across the El Cap wall, nobody to be seen
Haul bag, arriving at Frosty's Bivy
P24, the Jewel of the Cap
P22? just above the Round Table? Just below Frosty's?
EDIT: those photos of P24 should be enough. Excalibur has some great rock, and rarely seen.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Jan 31, 2009 - 12:46am PT
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FROSTY'S!!
The picture of me rapping with the green water bottle...That bottle was the precious elixer that I found in Frosty's!!
Sammy 2, Go for it man, never give up. You can do it.
I'm feeling the jones myself....
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Jan 31, 2009 - 01:01am PT
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Wow Tom, I just went back and looked at your captions.
Holy buckets, your recollector is a lot better'n mine.
I guess that means I burned more bush up there...or in life!
Thanks man.
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Jan 31, 2009 - 01:02am PT
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Nice shots Survival. When did you guys do it? I did it in late September 1989, with an English friend, which kind of added to it.
Here's one of me on (in?) Frosty's Claustrophobic Bivy:
It was so tight that I had to lay down face up or face down; my hips were too wide to allow me to roll over. And the corner there was too funky to let us set up the ledge.
I'd "grown up" with the Meyers picture book of the Valley. So taking this shot of my partner was a natural:
Anyone who's got that book will recognize the shot. I think we took a lot fewer photos than you though, these are the only two I have scanned.
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Jan 31, 2009 - 01:12am PT
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Storm Situation Damage Control: Excalibur
The huge roof at the top of P10 can save many lives, protected and with a roof crack for portaledges that is about green camalot.
Frosty's Bivy, inside the horizontal squeeze chimney, is totally dry, and if that fissure was, say, four feet instead of one, I would live there, rent-free. Frosty's bivy wins the great/weird bivy championship, with a good nod to the fact that it stays dry, all the time (the smell of the dust is so dry, you know it). There is a roomy (sic) spot inside, and you can actually turn over from your tummy to your back. There is no room for your haul bags inside the Frosty bivy, but in a weather emergency, I would rather be there, than any other place on El Cap.
A close second is in my portaledge, at the top of Excalibur's P10. This bombay chimney thing has the goods (great roof crack) to be a veritable tenant housing authority for the Parks Department Rescue Squad (SAR).
Excalibur, for me, was a great wall.
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SammyLee2
Trad climber
Memphis, TN
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Jan 31, 2009 - 01:17am PT
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Captain and Survival,
Thanks for the "Go for it!" I just may have to get Karl to take me up a wall. Last time I mentioned it he said, "You'll need a day or two of aid practice then we can go." He also told me that most folks he takes to El Cap, want to come down after the first night, due to exposure. I told him that I loved exposure. He said, "There is exposure and then there is EXPOSURE. Twenty pitches up on El Cap, you fling a booger off and it touches nothing till it hits the ground." Made me think.
Karl kinda has a way with words, you know. "You B!tch! You short-roped me! I'm gonna die now you bastard!" Just ask Crimpie. Funny how laughter came after such a comment.
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Jan 31, 2009 - 02:05am PT
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Excalibur, and other El Capitan Walls, comes at you, and keeps coming at you. You paddle toward the swell, but, it rises so fast, you think you are going to die. As the Wall crests, ready to break, you're a few pitches from the summit, but it looks like you're going over the falls. At the last possible moment, you've paddled over the crest, and the wall of disaster has suddenly moved behind you, and you are safe.
You have ridden the El Cap wall. Not down it, but up and over its crest, and to safety.
There is no route called Maverick's, but the idea is the same.
You've ridden out the smaller Big Ones. You wait for the perfect moment, to decide to take off and experience the Big Wall.
You've just barely lived through the last one, so, why not paddle out, for another taste of La Dolce Vita?
A television story can talk about a man who is a junkie craving a needle, but this time, it's different. Our man is a dirtbag craving a rack of pitons, a dark night score in Camp 4, and he's obsessed and addicted, and there's no turning him back:
Reticent Wall
(a mother's whimper, real, but we'll use it for effect as part of the television show we'll proffer to the craven masses, a toxic glare that infects the National Livingroom . . . .)
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jan 31, 2009 - 03:53am PT
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Sammy wrote
"Karl kinda has a way with words, you know. "You B!tch! You short-roped me! I'm gonna die now you bastard!" Just ask Crimpie. Funny how laughter came after such a comment."
Sammy has a way of spicing up a story! (although I can snappy about short roping on occasion) (if we climb something, we'll have to take lots of pictures so we can remember which parts of our stories are lies or facts)
Pete, why bother with coffee if you sleep until noon?!
Nice to see all the ins and outs of all these el cap routes. Between these and Tom's pics, it's like window shopping for timeshares in hell.
Peace
karl
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Jan 31, 2009 - 07:03am PT
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"It's like window shopping for timeshares in hell."
Damn Karl, you do have a way with words!!
Excalibur was a great experience for us. I feel lucky to have learned young that it was more about who I was with than what I climbed.
I started climbing with Keith when I was 15 yrs old. Excalibur was our 3rd El Cap route together and our sixth grade VI.
It took us a week, including a day of rest early on. There's a long, thin sloping ledge where we hung out for a day. My hands were pretty swollen as I acclimated to the wall, and I felt like I had some kind of stomach issue, so it was great to just sit. I have a couple photos of that ledge I'll put in here tomorrow.
Sammy, I really do wish all the best to you. The pull of that stone is something that normal people just can't understand. And for those of us that feel the pull...well, there really is no other way to fix it.
I am really feeling the pull again myself. The great magnet, my old friend, the damn giant mighty mecca stone standing there quietly waiting for us until our fragile muscles and bones wear out....and then it goes on standing there waiting for the next group.
I think El Cap loves all the little ants crawling on him. He doesn't even mind the trash, the ropes, and the piss too much.
It will all wash away in a few thousand years anyway. He's got time.........
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jan 31, 2009 - 10:43am PT
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Karl - you can see in this photo that I'm still in the shade, therefore it's still morning.
Tom made his own portaledge for this wall, and enjoys his coffee and cams in the "cantilevered" style.
He, um, needed a bit of work on his portaledge fly design, however.
So it's the middle of the night, and it's raining. Tom is sitting on his ledge - upright - holding the collapsed rainfly above him.
"Tom - are you OK, dude?! Do you need to come under my fly?"
"No!" he replied back excitedly, apparently enjoying himself immensely. "I'm just gonna hold the fly over me for a few more hours until the cold front arrives. That way I can keep all my clothes and sleeping bag dry. Once it gets cold, the rain will stop, and I'll get set up then. That's what Royal Robbins says to do."
It worked for Tom, too.
P.S. Tom - I still don't have a confirmed partner for the spring wall season, and Pacemaker needs a fourth ascent, along with a few new bolts. You should see these swell new tuning forks that Theron made for me. [HINT]
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kevsteele
climber
Santa Barbara, CA
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Jan 31, 2009 - 12:29pm PT
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A few Excalibur shots:
Pitch 6, Kevin Brown on the great thinness before the great wideness.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Jan 31, 2009 - 01:45pm PT
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Nice pix you guys!!!
I love that fish-eye thing!
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Jan 31, 2009 - 02:02pm PT
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Eyeing Half Dome...
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Captain...or Skully
climber
Boise, ID
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Jan 31, 2009 - 11:41pm PT
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He is, isn't he?
Plotting for the future.........
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Feb 1, 2009 - 05:51am PT
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A little artwork,
Forgive me...I couldn't stop myself.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Feb 1, 2009 - 02:15pm PT
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Thanks Mike.
Have a Super Sunday everyone!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Pitch 6, the ' A-5 pitch'. When we did it that was Dru's lead (his first wall)
"This is so scary."
"Any of this stuff could blow"
"I could die at any time."
"This is so, Coool!"
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Captain...or Skully
climber
Boise, ID
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I'm indifferent.
I like rocks. Knott very "DayGlo", I guess.
Hey, as long as YOU enjoy it, cool.
But I like Rocks. Hopefully Rocky looking rocks.
Good on ya.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Feb 1, 2009 - 08:01pm PT
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C'mon Captain...loosen up.
They ARE rocky lookin' rocks!
I'm cool either way, I just like to mix it up a little.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
Boise, ID
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Oh, you're good.....No worries.
I'm just knott all "daygloey".
I wasn't much for Neiman, either. No offense, dude.
Rocks have so much in them. So much, Ya know?
Wow. Floors me, every time.
I'll be in the car.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Feb 1, 2009 - 08:14pm PT
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I dig it.
You just cracked me up, totally worth it.
I have some more "Old" TRs to do for those of you that enjoy.
I'll try not to over do the special effects just for you man.
But I have to throw in a couple for my own entertainment!
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Captain...or Skully
climber
Boise, ID
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Hey, it's your show, Bro.....I'm just the peanut gallery.
Groove on at your discretion.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Feb 1, 2009 - 09:05pm PT
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Groovy baby.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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and on the summit
I'm the one with the hat, the rest is pure Dru!
Note my cool shoes! Don't step on'em. Don't you wish you had some?
Speaking of Deuce, we took a dble decker, Wall cabana (ignore this, Mussy) on that ascent. I got to be the bottom And the top.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
Boise, ID
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Hey, I've BEEN the guy......"what the HELL do you mean, there's NO rope? It's ONE move away........"
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Feb 1, 2009 - 10:57pm PT
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Mike and Captain,
Those are funny posts...we've all been there!
Jaybro, what happened to your image?
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Captain...or Skully
climber
Boise, ID
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I was wonderin' also...........
Well? Hello? Is this thing on?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Okay, copacetic 'nsh#t
Scroll back to see the missing action photos such as they are. Or I can post the whole thing here...
Dru took pictures of me valiantly not free-ing the first wide pitch, and there may be ones of me onsighting the piitch above. I gotta scour the archives, and then see if the scanner stlill works...
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Feb 2, 2009 - 01:39am PT
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Nice job Jaybro!!
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Buggs
Trad climber
Corrales, New Mexico
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This doesn't look safe...
All these guys look scary...
Where does the sh#t go?
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Feb 2, 2009 - 08:55am PT
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Hi Buggs,
well of course, there's a little fecae fairy that hangs out right below the ledge and cleans that sh*t up!
Nah, it's not scarey....just kind of like dreaming, after the oxy kicks in.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Woo hoo!!!!
Great stuff, all!
Thanx for the ride!
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philo
climber
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"Nah, it's not scarey....just kind of like dreaming, after the oxy kicks in."
HAHAHAHHHAHHAHAAAAAAHA.
It is great to see you old trad dads when you weren't soooooo old.
Lots of cheesecake shots there. Not that there is anything wrong with that. hehe
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Feb 2, 2009 - 10:47am PT
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Oh yeah??
Let's see some cheesecake pix of you when YOU weren't quite so old...ya damn disrespectful whelp!
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philo
climber
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Careful what you wish for.....
I know it is not exactly a climbing pic but I was doing a lot of climbing in those days.
And it is pretty cheesycake.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Feb 2, 2009 - 11:41am PT
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OK, I was looking for my favorite photo from this adventure, which I can't seem to find for some stupid reason..GRRRRRRRR...
But here is the last batch of cheesecake for Philo, including the small ledge that we spent a whole day on, and the full scope of the haul pigs.
I took a pic of the slabs, and I'm almost positive there's a party down there. Is it possible that it's the Wings Of Steel guys? They were on that slab the whole time we were on this route, if I recall. Anyway, we were there in 96 so I don't know how that jives with W.O.S.....
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Feb 2, 2009 - 11:44am PT
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Oh my gawd Phil, I just saw your post.
You talkin' cheese over the top cheese!
You win the contest bro...I can't top that...unless I dig around for awhile.
Were you ever that young???
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philo
climber
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That's a whole lot a STONE in them pictures there. Really great thread. But look at you oh bearded one. All gussied up like a shoot for a Peter Storm ad.
"Were you ever that young???"
Only once but it was over before I recognized the wonder of it all.
How are the new digs?
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Feb 2, 2009 - 11:51am PT
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Ho mahn...you got me spittin' up a lung over here.
That REALLY cracked me up!
edit:
The new digs are awesome man. There's a cool area about an hour from here that's not in the Sandias. Also, did you see the "undisclosed location" thread? I forget.
I love it here on the farm, and you're welcome to come check it out someday.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Feb 2, 2009 - 11:56am PT
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Phil, check the "edit" above.
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philo
climber
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At first I thought Undisclosed Location was the title to the latest Star Trek flick so of course I checked it out. VERY COOOOOOL! Tempting and teasy. It would be a hoot to head your way someday.
Now back to the OLD WALLS.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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I got thoroughly distracted by this thread...so kickass!
Thanks for all the goodness!
Cheers!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Feb 2, 2009 - 12:12pm PT
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I think I will shoot for doing the South Face of Watkins thread next.
But damn it takes a lot of time to do all the scanning and sizing stuff. I think a lot of folks don't appreciate what it takes to put a whole bunch of photos together for this here 'lectric picture radio.....
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philo
climber
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Well quit phaffin' and wingin' so we can be appreciatin'.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Feb 2, 2009 - 12:45pm PT
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Not until I see some more dance photos of you.
You and Maysho could put a hell of a thread together!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Feb 2, 2009 - 01:31pm PT
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Thanks Cap'n.
Just for you.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Feb 4, 2009 - 02:05am PT
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Bump. Just cause I feel like it,
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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There are only two type of people:
People who love the Excalibur,
and People who want to do the Excalibur.
 Dr. Johnson
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Feb 4, 2009 - 11:04am PT
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Yeah man...I can dig it.
Hey Cap'n, know where that day glo rock above is at?
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Captain...or Skully
climber
Boise, ID
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I dunno, Mars?
Seen it before, somewhere.........I give up.
Trick question, maybe? You artsy types are tricky........... ;-)
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Feb 4, 2009 - 02:20pm PT
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Captain,
It's that trippy summit headstone block/pillar in the Needles.
I forget what it's on top of. Of course there's a normal pic of it in my Needles thread from a ways back.
Mike. That's Keith in the third shot down.
I'm the flake with the beard!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Feb 5, 2009 - 10:15pm PT
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Thanks for your kind words.
Where did that bitchin' handle of yours come from?
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Apr 2, 2009 - 01:40pm PT
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April bump for one of my favorite climbing threads.....
Hellooooo? Hankster???
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Hey survival
you should have titled it 'deuce indeuced'!
LOL!!!!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Apr 2, 2009 - 01:44pm PT
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Next time I'll do that!
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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
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BUMP!!!
thanks for posting up even if it took me 6 months to find it!
looks sweet!
Jaybro, u found the first hard OW pitch harder than the second? and how'd the third one go? (3 hard ones in a row yeah? b,c,d)
cheers,
patrick
edit: http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/excal.htm cool article about the wideness, im sure some have seen
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Jun 2, 2009 - 09:33am PT
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PK,
Glad you enjoyed it!
I'll check that link out.
I'm just glad that there are some who will surf backwards around here at times.......
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Fuzzywuzzy
climber
suspendedhappynation
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Great stuff. Thanks.
If its kosher I might post up some from when Bill Price and I did it in 1978. The pics are super, I'd forgotten about the Roundtable!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Jun 4, 2009 - 09:48am PT
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Fuzzy,
I would love to see that!
Bill P is the sh*t, big respect for that guy back in the day.
I'd love to see some pix of you guys.
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Fuzzywuzzy
climber
suspendedhappynation
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I had never climbed with Bill. We had met of course, but Vern had to leave the Valley (super rainy spring) so there I was standing out side the MRB and I just put it out there to all hangers, "Anybody want to climb Excaliber?" He instantly said yes - and I think we went up the next day to check the loads that were below the rurp pitch. They had weather (a month?) We needed to see if the gorp was moldy etc.
We had a fantastic time up there. Really my most adventurous rt as it was the second rt up the Captain for both of us. Perfect weather. Bill was a great partner, steady, fun and always relaxed.
I have a bunch more photos and have been wanting to scan them. I'll work on it.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Jun 5, 2009 - 04:35am PT
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mmmmmm, yummy, that hammock bivvy looks soooo comfy!!!
Great pictures!
Glad I didn't have to deal with all the bongs and blocks too.
I "jugged" that pitch with three big cams......
My P.O. partner, Bob Williams, loved Bill Price.
I never got to climb with Bill.
What's he up to??
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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
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very cool! thanks for posting up!!!
the bong sandwiches look pretty scary......are they any good?
thinkin' im liking the technology options for that pitch!
patrick
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Ezra
Social climber
WA, NC, Idaho Falls
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Jun 13, 2009 - 10:24pm PT
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Amazing pictures,
Nature did you notice the black thong in the first posts or so?.....;)
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Captain...or Skully
climber
Boise, ID
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Jul 10, 2009 - 10:28pm PT
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It's a Line.
Very proud, still. It's Excalibur.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jul 11, 2009 - 01:23am PT
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Cool! Bong sandwhiches, just like the photo in Yosemite Climber.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Jul 11, 2009 - 02:34am PT
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Cool stuff FuzzDaddy!
On my monitor the pic of Bill was too dark to see his face.... here is lighter version, if you approve.
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Fuzzywuzzy
climber
suspendedhappynation
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Nov 11, 2009 - 01:41pm PT
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Talking with Hugh this summer he mentioned that Excaliber was his favorite route up El Cap. Said it was because it required everything - wide, thin, free etc. A bold natural line.
Great photos. BTW you can rap to El Cap Spire for another great ledge bivy.
TC
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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May 18, 2011 - 09:56am PT
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Hey Fuzzy, wha happ to yo photogs??
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tom Carter
Social climber
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May 18, 2011 - 12:32pm PT
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Don't know ...but here are a couple of them.
TC
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tom Carter
Social climber
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May 18, 2011 - 12:51pm PT
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On top. We hiked back in with Rob Ramey and drug our stuff down together.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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May 18, 2011 - 12:57pm PT
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Damn that's a lot of wood to haul around!! Did people just take the slings off and leave all those blocks on top, or carry 'em back down?
I don't remember seeing any on the summit.....
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
On the road.
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May 18, 2011 - 01:14pm PT
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Great shots, Tom!
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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May 18, 2011 - 06:17pm PT
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Nice shots Survival and Tommy lad.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 18, 2011 - 08:24pm PT
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Nice Shots everyone!
Next on my list of Charlie Porter and Hugh Burton classics!
Sure looks sweet...
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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May 18, 2011 - 10:49pm PT
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Awesome pics bruce, with the exception of you in your bikini...:)
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Double D
climber
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May 19, 2011 - 11:41am PT
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Tom Carter... nice ones!
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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May 19, 2011 - 12:58pm PT
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Bumping one of the best trip reports. Nice old photos, thanks.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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May 19, 2011 - 01:04pm PT
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Thanks Double D, that is the ledge where I sprinkled a small tin of my dad's ashes. It was perfectly calm, right at sunset, when I tipped the tin out into space. The ashes descended a short distance and then a puff of air lifted them up and sprinkled them lightly over Keith and I. It was amazing and seemed meant-to-be.
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tom Carter
Social climber
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May 19, 2011 - 02:25pm PT
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Cool story of your Dad's ashes.
Here another shot of Bill on the Round Table bivy.
Thanks all!
TC
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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May 19, 2011 - 02:25pm PT
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That's cool Survival. I too want to be spread into my favorite climbing area when it's my time. Hopefully not anytime soon.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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May 19, 2011 - 10:55pm PT
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Serious lumber BITD . . . bad ass TR.
Thanks!
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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May 19, 2011 - 11:35pm PT
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F*#kin epic!
That shot dd reposted, actually the one after it(pulled back ), was my favorite. What an amazing spot.
Then I read about your dad's ashes.
Wow Bruce, this must have been a special climb for you.
Thanks a lot for posting this.
Yeah, coulda done without the speedos. :^0 !!!
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Double D
climber
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May 20, 2011 - 12:59am PT
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Cool story Survival.
TC thanks for posting up the picts of BP, I knew you'd eventually come through with em. Excal and Tissack were definitely daunting walls with a "longshoreman-esque" demeanor.
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tom Carter
Social climber
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May 20, 2011 - 04:01pm PT
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DD awesome to see and hear your stuff here too!
I promise I will get with it someday and do a post of the 2nd ascent with Bill back in 78.
Those pics of Kevin Steele's are terrific. I remember that rurp pitch.
So one day I go up with Walter to finish that pitch. I'm nailing away - Walter was belaying me. He wanted to see what was up with the pitch. I look down and ask, "Walter, how am I doing"?
Walter laughs and replies, "If you proceed like that YOU are gunna die"!
Silence..... "I'm all ears Walter - walk me through it"!!!!!
So Walter, step by step relates the system of clipping in aiders, daisys, how to test etc and tells me he wants to hear those racks as I impact the placement.
Thanks Walter!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Mar 15, 2012 - 01:16am PT
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Props to survival for constantly putting up good climbing material. You must have taken a lot of pictures back in the day and do a lot of scanning today. Nice job much appreciated.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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Jul 13, 2012 - 09:31am PT
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zoom!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Jul 13, 2012 - 11:50am PT
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Thanks for the bump Weedge! Now I'm all warm 'n' fuzzy 'n' sh#t....
That may be the shortest post you ever made!
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Jul 13, 2012 - 02:13pm PT
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Now thats f*#king trip report
very cool!
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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Jul 13, 2012 - 02:24pm PT
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sir vival
you should feel keen
for you sent this stout route
back in the day where large cams were worn in your underwear,
and you've no f*#king helmet, jesus mustuv saved you,
it does us newcomers good to understand
that these routes that we prove ourselves upon
were accomplished in much bolder and more challenging
circumstances before us.
no matter my mountain travels,
i cannot find in my mind,
arrogance
nor in my heart,
pride.
truely whenever i look with end either biological entity,
i find a whither drunk.
which is not out of line, at all.
everything is just as it wants to be.
Hey we should climb at the leap.
i was thinking something like:
five 5.8 pitches,
five 5.9 pitches,
five 5.10 pitches.
for that play has a certain gerryesque
tune with it.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Jul 13, 2012 - 02:28pm PT
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I would love to go to the Leap with you Chuck. I need you and my new friend "Craig" to show me around, beat me up, spank me down, and teach me some gawdamn manners!!
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hollyclimber
Big Wall climber
El Portal, CA
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Jul 25, 2012 - 11:02am PT
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Wow- amazing to see grass at the Salathe top out. I was shocked when topping out on Excalibur to find myself at the Salathe. Interestingly, when E and I climbed Excalibur we also watched climbers on the slab the entire time--Ammon on Wings.
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Larry Nelson
Social climber
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Bump for great climbing content and pictures (except for the speedos)
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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IF i were that proud i'd wear'em allthetime;)
WOW fucin Wow this is the thread of the decade!
never seen it before. just read it through.
Awesome contributions, All!
Greatest of job survival!!
i'm inspired Excalibur has always been a faint dream of mine.
Now it's my main goal in life.
Thats some great story telling Mike.
Cheers to Frosty"s!!
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