Trip Report
North Ridge of Mt Conness, more or less...
Tuesday August 17, 2010 8:22pm
“You are the Buddha who never finishes anything,” Gary Snyder to Jack Kerouac after the latter did not quite top out on Matterhorn Peak..

So, last Monday, the 9th of August, found me in a bluesy sort of mood, at Sonora Pass.
top left corner top right corner
Credit: Jaybro
bottom left corner bottom right corner


I had been planning to climb the North Ridge of Coness, but realized that I live at sea level and could use a day to aclimatize. After a couple easy routes,
top left corner top right corner
Credit: Jaybro
bottom left corner bottom right corner
top left corner top right corner
Credit: Jaybro
bottom left corner bottom right corner

I found myself at the PCT trailnead. Maybe I should do a shakedown run? I thought.
I put on my shoes and fired up my ipod that shuffled into ‘Fire on the mtn’. Beautiful day, clear and cool. The terrain seemed stark,
top left corner top right corner
Credit: Jaybro
bottom left corner bottom right corner

til I looked around and smelled the Flowers;
top left corner top right corner
Credit: Jaybro
bottom left corner bottom right corner
top left corner top right corner
Credit: Jaybro
bottom left corner bottom right corner
a wimpy run, but a wonderful outing
top left corner top right corner
Credit: Jaybro
bottom left corner bottom right corner
top left corner top right corner
Credit: Jaybro
bottom left corner bottom right corner

I resolved to climb Connes the next day. I’d climbed the Harding route about fifteen years ago and jogged up the descent a few times in the interrim. I figured I needed to wyden my portfolio on this beautiful peak.

That night I bivvyed in that place we don’t talk about anymore, it was good to see my friends Lynne L and Dave Y, we hung out well into the dark sharing stories and reminiscing, largely about friends who aren’t here anymore. A sacrament of times of sorts, of the past long ago and recent.

4:45 came early, good thing I had Coffee reeady in a thermos. I laced on my Scramblers, and tuned into Coltrane.
top left corner top right corner
Credit: Jaybro
bottom left corner bottom right corner


The dawn was gorgeous, the lake Calm, not a sasquatch in sight...
top left corner top right corner
Credit: Jaybro
bottom left corner bottom right corner
top left corner top right corner
Credit: Jaybro
bottom left corner bottom right corner




after an hour of plodding I ran into a pair of climbers/pbackbackers on their way down.
“You’re up early”
minimal interchange and we all went on in our own private reveries.

the route ahead,
top left corner top right corner
Credit: Jaybro
bottom left corner bottom right corner
Somewhere in there is where I went astray. Croft’s description mentions going left around the second tower and from where I was I figured I could go even further left, avoiding all kinds of obstacles.
top left corner top right corner
This is where I went too far left....
This is where I went too far left....
Credit: Jaybro
bottom left corner bottom right corner



unfortunately I verred far enough left that I knd missed most of the route and ended up once again on the descent route,

top left corner top right corner
Credit: Jaybro
bottom left corner bottom right corner

Since I was there I slogged to the summit anyway, realizing that it was the road that was the thing, but part of the road was the top.
i can always come back for the specific route...

On the summit (9:17) I savored a Cadbury and listened to ‘Gaint Steps’.
top left corner top right corner
Credit: Jaybro
bottom left corner bottom right corner
-Forgot to take summit photo, though....

top left corner top right corner
Credit: Jaybro
bottom left corner bottom right corner

I was struck by the view of ((I giuess) North peak [edit, MT Conness see comments], what a line! I didn’t know at the time that they were looking for poor Bob Schultz over there, at the time.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1240604&tn=0&mr=0

A casual descent was punctuated by a bald eagle soaring over Saddlebag lake, that eagle seemed to fill the sky,
top left corner top right corner
Credit: Jaybro
bottom left corner bottom right corner
top left corner top right corner
Credit: Jaybro
bottom left corner bottom right corner
top left corner top right corner
Credit: Jaybro
bottom left corner bottom right corner

anyone done this wide line?
top left corner top right corner
Credit: Jaybro
bottom left corner bottom right corner
top left corner top right corner
Credit: Jaybro
bottom left corner bottom right corner

I cooled my heels on a lawn chair with my feet propped up on the bumper off my car when a young couple starting their own adventure hiked by ( it was maybe noon) ‘You’re having the perfect day” Said the male half of the pair from behind his Giligan hat, shades and zinc Oxide, I agreed.

I stopped at TPR, hopping to see LL at her first day of work, but settled for Ice Cream. Time to move on, I picked up a Ginger Ale I had stashed in Warren Creek, tooled down the pass, stopped again for a slice of Whoa Nellie Veggie pizza, and continued south to a Bivvy, literally in Paradise, just in time for the Perseid Meteor Shower.










That other North Ridge, on that othe Mt Conness, sure looks cool....






  Trip Report Views: 1,824
Jaybro
About the Author
Jaybro is a social climber from Wolf City, Wyoming.

Comments
Gene

climber
  Aug 16, 2010 - 09:07pm PT
Nice!!!
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
  Aug 17, 2010 - 01:03am PT
Nice, Jay.
Is "Giant Step" the old Taj Mahal song "take a giant step", or is there another one?
P.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Aug 17, 2010 - 01:07am PT
leading by example, well done!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Author's Reply  Aug 17, 2010 - 01:21am PT
I was listening to Giant steps by John Coltrane
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BZRnkBK_0no

Taj Mahal would have been right in there too, though...
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
  Aug 17, 2010 - 12:01pm PT
A nice couple days ther, Jaybro.
Thanks for the tale.
rhyang

climber
SJC
  Aug 17, 2010 - 01:24pm PT
Had to chuckle at the Kerouac / Matterhorn Peak reference .. passed a few of his followers while hiking up to Horse Creek Pass a couple of years ago on the way to Whorl Mountain (which I failed to summit). Love Coltrane too.
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
  Aug 17, 2010 - 01:28pm PT

Great stuff, Jay!!!
Thanks for sharing.
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
  Aug 17, 2010 - 01:32pm PT
lastnight i consumed a psychedelic stuffed animal,
and rode my pillow to the 1000' sky.

i looked down and saw running water.

thanks jaybro for stripping the darkness away from the light.
Mike Friedrichs

Sport climber
City of Salt
  Aug 17, 2010 - 01:34pm PT
Jay,

Sounds like a wonderful outing. Has it really been 15 years? Perhaps a return in 2011?
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Aug 17, 2010 - 01:50pm PT
Thanks, Jay. I've always wanted to do that route since it was first described in Ascent and the AAJ, but my soundtrack will probably have more Beethoven.

John
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
  Aug 17, 2010 - 02:13pm PT
Cool day in the mountains!
10b4me

Social climber
Lida Junction
  Aug 17, 2010 - 02:20pm PT
nice4 tr Jay. I know several people, including myself, who have climbed other routes on Connes rather than they're main objective
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
  Aug 17, 2010 - 05:05pm PT
Nice Jay! I think the north ridge is a pretty clear line when looking down from the summit, and you can go down that way in case you miss it on the way up and ascend the east ridge area.

Glad you caught the Perseids in Paradise... that must have been a good show!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Author's Reply  Aug 17, 2010 - 07:07pm PT
RE: Perseids, We slept on the 2nd story front deck in the Old climbers Home. I slept on my back and kept my glasses on. There's a barebones trip report on the fetish...


I bet it was 16 yrs ago, Mike. we did Keeler in'95, (Jerry year). Wasn't Conness the year before?
Bush

Trad climber
Manhattan Beach, CA
  Aug 17, 2010 - 06:06pm PT
i believe that the north ridge is actually the line you show in your TR in the photo just above the text about north peak. i was on it on august 5th. it's a great route worth the stars it gets.
Sam R

climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
  Aug 17, 2010 - 06:41pm PT
It looks to me like you climbed North Peak, and like Bush said, the ridge you took the photo of was actually Conness. It sure doesn't suck to have to go back to climb it though!
Lennox

climber
in the land of the blind
  Aug 17, 2010 - 07:21pm PT
The title is still fitting : )

In your photos the peak on the left during your approach is North Peak; Conness would be out of frame on the left. That photo of "North Peak?" is Conness with the N. Ridge on the right.

A good multi-day journey, a good climb of North Peak, a good TR.




(edit)

yeah
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Author's Reply  Aug 17, 2010 - 07:20pm PT
Hmmmm?

The more or less part?
MH2

Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
  Aug 17, 2010 - 07:20pm PT
it's a great route worth the stars it gets.


Nice comment given Jaybro's Perseid observation.

Thanks for that piece of yourself, JB.
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
  Aug 17, 2010 - 10:22pm PT
jaybro, on my ascent, i chose less.
nothing but a chalkbag and kaukulators.
Go