Trip Report
North Eastern weekend warrior summer of climbing
Monday September 27, 2010 1:33pm
As one of the many who linger around here, I too hesitate to post trip reports alongside the extraordinary climbs that some of you accomplish. I nonetheless submit to you my extreme n00bishness; my humble summer of climbing; the beginning of a learning path, one that I hope will be long and continue to be as rewarding.

I started leading last fall and have learned everything on my own through trial and non-lethal error. This year was my first full year of leading and it was a great one at that. While staying well within my climbing limits, I've continued to learn to place gear, I've kept it safe, had fun and pushed my mental limits.

Gunks

The season started with a 4 day trip to find out what the Gunks were all about. It turns out the Gunks are a big deal. For a beginner like me, it's a great place to learn to climb with lots of exposure and good protection. I eventually went back 3 times with the Gunks being at the center of my climbing. The 10 hour round trip drive was worth it each time.

The first trip at the end of March was with my young daughter, so we stuck to single pitch climbs.

http://mikemclean.ca/ocd/2010/04/05/gunks-trip-april-2010/

I don't consider that I really ticked off any climbs on this trip, (well, except for Dirty Chimney and Easy Keyhole ...) but it gave me a good occasion to see and feel the Gunks; to fall in love with the place.

top left corner top right corner
Easy Keyhole
Easy Keyhole
Credit: Ensonik
bottom left corner bottom right corner
top left corner top right corner
Busy Easter weekend carriage trail at the Gunks
Busy Easter weekend carriage trail at the Gunks
Credit: Ensonik
bottom left corner bottom right corner
top left corner top right corner
Starting up Horseman
Starting up Horseman
Credit: Ensonik
bottom left corner bottom right corner

I then followed up with a 2nd trip in the month of June.

http://mikemclean.ca/ocd/2010/06/26/gunks-trip-2-june-2010/

This trip was much more successful with a full slew of classics done. Among them: Three Pines, Betty, Jackie, Bunny and Belly Roll.

top left corner top right corner
Looking down on the first pitch of Betty
Looking down on the first pitch of Betty
Credit: Ensonik
bottom left corner bottom right corner
top left corner top right corner
Madame G rappel
Madame G rappel
Credit: Ensonik
bottom left corner bottom right corner

We returned a 3rd and 4th time in August, again ticking off some moderate classics: Easy Overhang, Horseman, Double Chin, Minty, Beginner's Delight, Frog's Head, ...

http://mikemclean.ca/ocd/2010/08/13/gunks-re-redub-august-2010/

http://mikemclean.ca/ocd/2010/08/29/a-last-trip-to-the-gunks-this-year/

top left corner top right corner
Trying to figure out the 2nd chin on Double Chin
Trying to figure out the 2nd chin on Double Chin
Credit: Ensonik
bottom left corner bottom right corner

Adirondacks

I managed to get out in the Adirondacks a couple times, although not as much as I would have wanted (there's something no climber has ever said).

One climb that was sublime and stuck with me is Catharsis at Poke-O Moonshine.

http://mikemclean.ca/ocd/2010/09/12/poke-o-moonshine-slab-catharsis/

top left corner top right corner
View from the top of Catharsis
View from the top of Catharsis
Credit: Ensonik
bottom left corner bottom right corner


Local stuff

Of course, I got out at some local crags around Montreal. I'm guessing I got out maybe 10 times in all which brutally reminds me that I really am a weekend warrior.

The Pinacle is a 300 foot cliff here in Quebec just north of the US border. I went a couple times for some multi-pitch goodness.

http://mikemclean.ca/ocd/tag/pinacle/

top left corner top right corner
View from the bottom of Camay at Pinacle
View from the bottom of Camay at Pinacle
Credit: Ensonik
bottom left corner bottom right corner

I'm hoping that the last 4 or 5 weekends of the season will be as fruitful. With the slow but sure progress made this summer, I'll be shooting to dabble in 5.8 territory next summer which will open a lot of climbs that I didn't want to get onto quite yet.


(Edit: spelling)

  Trip Report Views: 2,663
Ensonik
About the Author
Ensonik is a climber from Montreal, Quebec.

Comments
Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Sep 26, 2010 - 09:34pm PT
Nice pics!
Mason

Trad climber
Yay Area
  Sep 27, 2010 - 12:41am PT
Nice job, man! I feel you on the whole posting TRs here when there are so many amazing trips that make my tr's look weak.

Definitely have to get out to the east side some day and check out the Gunks. That and about 20 other places across the US. Thanks for the tr.
Todd Eastman

Social climber
Putney, VT
  Sep 27, 2010 - 12:45am PT
Nice work! I did quite a bit of learning on many of those climbs. Enjoy the process.
BrianH

Trad climber
santa fe
  Sep 27, 2010 - 02:09pm PT
Nice! I have a similar background in terms of starting late in life and teaching myself (and taking some classes) how to climb very easy climbs at Seneca. Then I moved west to be where the real climbing is.

Let me know if you ever make it out this way, lottsa fun to be had, eh!
Les

Trad climber
Bahston
  Sep 28, 2010 - 08:43am PT
Nice. The Gunks was also where I cut my trad climbing teeth and remains my favorite crag in the country. Go in the fall and you'll want to return their year after year. (psst, it's Madame G's, not "Mrs. G's") ;-)
Ensonik

Trad climber
Montreal, Quebec
Author's Reply  Sep 28, 2010 - 12:23pm PT
(psst, it's Madame G's, not "Mrs. G's") ;-)

Thanks for reminding me; I've just fixed it. I can see that being somewhat annoying. I was reading through a Cathedral Ledge trip report earlier this week and the guy kept calling the climb "Into Thin Air" and the ocd part of me couldn't let it go.

Zander

climber
  Sep 28, 2010 - 08:31pm PT
Looks like a lot of fun was had!
Thanks for posting,
Zander
air2mud82

Trad climber
Great Falls, MT
  Sep 28, 2010 - 10:01pm PT
hey, this is awesome!

I'm pretty much same/same as far as getting a late start, self-taught from reading or some few and far between paid courses and my main climbing partners are my two young kids.

I am actually about where you said you were a year ago. Work has been pretty good this year, so I have been able to buy most of what I need to really get started, but now I just need somewhere to start and someone to really starte with. This gives me that much more motivation. Thanks for sharing!

survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Sep 28, 2010 - 11:11pm PT
Nice job!

That first Adirondacks pic is my FAVE!!

Please don't hold back on posting TR's here. I have felt the same, since I'm not doing "big walls" at the moment. But I still have gotten a pretty warm reception for some pretty average stuff.

Remember, people are looking at a part of the country they've never been to, or folks they've never met. Plus we were all at a n00b level once upon a time. (Or are approaching it again, going the other way!)

Anyway, any climbing tr is better than some of the nonsense drivel we put up around here.

Thanks!

Ensonik

Trad climber
Montreal, Quebec
Author's Reply  Sep 29, 2010 - 05:48pm PT
Let me know if you ever make it out this way, lottsa fun to be had, eh!

Thanks! Getting out West is most definitely one my medium term goals, so I might just take you up on that offer :)
BrianH

Trad climber
santa fe
  Sep 29, 2010 - 07:29pm PT
When a middle aged guy decides to start climbing, one of the cruxes he faces is finding good partners. Imagine if you're an experienced climber and some 36 year old guy comes up, sporting a new rack, and asks if you want to get on Knee Knockin' Nelly at Seneca* (a stout 5.4 [old school!]).

The experienced climber can 1) climb with his established partners on routes near their difficulty level, 2) look for an attractive younger woman who needs instruction.

But I'll tell ya what! This internet thingie sure has changed all that!














*Not a real route.
Ensonik

Trad climber
Montreal, Quebec
Author's Reply  Sep 29, 2010 - 09:10pm PT
When a middle aged guy decides to start climbing, one of the cruxes he faces is finding good partners. Imagine if you're an experienced climber and some 36 year old guy comes up, sporting a new rack, and asks if you want to get on Knee Knockin' Nelly at Seneca* (a stout 5.4 [old school!]).

Well said! Although I got around this problem by informing my 13 year old son that he was going to enjoy climbing ;) (Seriously he loves it)

Another unstated reason why I find it tough finding partners (beyond what you've mentioned) is that being 36, I'm a bit wiser than I was 15 years ago and tend to not trust everyone and anyone. I've been offered belays and partnerships with others, but it's not a relationship I take lightly ... If I were 20, I probably wouldn't be as picky.

For now, I trust my son just fine.
Go