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 The Lower 1/3 of the South Ridge of North Duke in the Taku Range Credit: johnkelley |
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I flew in Saturday morning and was dropped off below the West Face of North Duke Peak in the Taku Range. My second trip to this peak in two weeks. My plan was to attempt the unclimbed peak between Emperor Peak and the North Duke but after a closer look I decided to go for the South Ridge of North Duke instead.
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 Below the North Duke Credit: johnkelley |
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I pitched my tent crawled inside made breakfast and had some coffee. An few hours later I made the short approach to North Dukes South Ridge.
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 The crux of the South Ridge (5.8) Credit: johnkelley |
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The crux of the route was near the bottom. A nice clean corner that went at 5.8. After that it was 1,000 or so feet, mostly on good clean rock. There were a few spots of 5.7 here and there.
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 South Ridge of North Duke Credit: johnkelley |
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 South Ridge of North Duke Credit: johnkelley |
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 The summit of North Duke Peak Credit: johnkelley |
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A few hours and I was on the summit. From there I descended the North Ridge using the rap stations I had left two weeks earlier when I made the FA of the peak. After about an hour I was at the base. I took a short nap in the tent, packed up and left for "dog camp" around 3:00pm.
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 North Duke Peak. The North Ridge is left skyline and the South Ridge is the right skyline Credit: johnkelley |
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The ski out went pretty fast.
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 Looking back across the Taku Glacier Credit: johnkelley |
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 The edge of the icefall Credit: johnkelley |
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Navigating through the icefall between the Taku Glacier and the North Fork of the Mendenhall Glacier was much easier then two weeks ago. It's nice being able to see where you're going.
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 In the icefall Credit: johnkelley |
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After getting down to the North Fork of the Mendenhall Glacier I stopped for a rest and melted some snow. It was easy going from there to "dog camp".
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 North Fork of Mendenhall Glacier Credit: johnkelley |
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 North side of the Mendenhall Towers Credit: johnkelley |
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I arrived at "dog camp around 7:00pm where I spent the night and flew out the next morning.
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 Dog camp Credit: johnkelley |
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 Dog camp Credit: johnkelley |
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